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Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 86

post #2551 of 9660
Thanks toe really appreciate, also agree some more settings on fist page would be excellent
post #2552 of 9660
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by paul77 View Post

Thanks toe really appreciate, also agree some more settings on fist page would be excellent

I am ready to post HP-specific settings on the first page, I just need the collective input of HP owners.

I posted my own initial settings for low/mid gain screens and everyone, for the most part, seems to think they work nicely.
post #2553 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

funny thing, the two movies w/ ghosting you mentioned, I had not actually seen yet, which is proabably why I am still glowing about the near non-existence of ghosting on the RS40.

But also I think having a lower gain 1.1 screen only helps deminish the ghosting to some degree plus I have seen how badly noticeable ghosting can be on flat panels that I thank JVC and the 3D Gods everytime I watch 3D on the RS40.

That is good to hear. The RS40 is my only reference for home 3d viewing and I have not viewed any flat pannels within reason, so it is good to know our 40s are better in this area than most flat pannels.
post #2554 of 9660
I have an Optoma HD80 with a brilliant white Carada Screen and want to upgrade to a RS40. The only reason why i want to upgrade is because of 3D. These projectors are two different animals so my question is: Will there be an improvement in the 2D PQ on the RS40 over the Optoma HD80? I really hope that someone can help me out here!
Thanks!
post #2555 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by mario021976 View Post

I have an Optoma HD80 with a brilliant white Carada Screen and want to upgrade to a RS40. The only reason why i want to upgrade is because of 3D. These projectors are two different animals so my question is: Will there be an improvement in the 2D PQ on the RS40 over the Optoma HD80? I really hope that someone can help me out here!
Thanks!

You are right, 2 different animals.
I went from an HD80 to an RS1/HD1 a few years ago. Totally dif look! I got rid of the Optoma because it was defective ( would shut down), not because I didnt like the image. The optoma had a more Dynamic (DLP) look to it, and the JVC had a less digital and more filmlike look with better blacks. For movies i like the jvc more, but sports was more plazma like on the optoma. I have not viewed an RS40. but I am sure it has to be better across the board than the RS1/HD1. (higher contrast/Brighter/better les/sharper)
I think there would be an improvement for you, because I didnt think that my RS1/HD1 was inferior to the HD80, just different, and like I said the 40 should be better in most ways than the RS1/HD1.
Tony

I also am using a Carada BW
post #2556 of 9660
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mario021976 View Post

I have an Optoma HD80 with a brilliant white Carada Screen and want to upgrade to a RS40. The only reason why i want to upgrade is because of 3D. These projectors are two different animals so my question is: Will there be an improvement in the 2D PQ on the RS40 over the Optoma HD80? I really hope that someone can help me out here!
Thanks!

I have personally demoed the HD80, which is DLP based obviously, years ago when I was shopping for either an Epson 6500ub or JVC RS20. And even then I thought the RS20 (calibrated) looked better than the HD80 (also calibrated).

What I remember about the Optoma though that it sounded like a jet engine in comparison to how whisper quite the RS20 was, which is the same case as with the RS40, it is also very quite in normal lamp mode, and still not as loud in high lamp mode as the Optoma is in normal lamp mode from memory. I just remember the HD80 being extremely and annoyingly loud, sounded like a fridge compressor going off.

The one thing I can say about DLPs, specifically the HD80 is that they are SUPER SHARP, but the overall picture and color fidelity and high native contrast ratio plus those amazingly inky blacks on the RS20 made the choice very easy. The JVC RS series of projectors generally have a softer film like image quality, while DLPs can look noticeably sharper but not as film like.

Everything I mentioned about the RS20 applies pretty much and to a better extent to the RS40, with the exception of a full CMS, which is not available on the RS40.

So in other words, I liked the RS20 much more than the HD80, and I definitely think the RS40 is noticeably better in almost every aspect than the RS20, so do the math
post #2557 of 9660
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjgar View Post

I have not viewed an RS40. but I am sure it has to be better across the board than the RS1/HD1. (higher contrast/Brighter/better les/sharper)
I think there would be an improvement for you, because I didnt think that my RS1/HD1 was inferior to the HD80, just different, and like I said the 40 should be better in most ways than the RS1/HD1.

The RS40 is definitely better than my old RS20 when it comes to sports and TV viewing. I honestly did not care for TV viewing and sports with the RS20 because the image quality was simply not good enough.

Fast forward to December 2010, and I can tell you that the RS40 is MUCH better for TV viewing and almost rivals my brand new 55" LED Sony in image quality with DirecTV and even internet video apps such as Hulu+

Great HDTV picture quality that I now have to curb myself from wasting lamp hours watching regular HD TV on the RS40 (Comedy Central, TBS/TNT, Discovery, NatGeo...etc) and I try to limit TV veiwing on the RS40 for ESPN and NFL/NHL/NBA and Soccer, which all look much much better with CMD Mode 3 turned on.
post #2558 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

The RS40 is definitely better than my old RS20 when it comes to sports and TV viewing. I honestly did not care for TV viewing and sports with the RS20 because the image quality was simply not good enough.

Fast forward to December 2010, and I can tell you that the RS40 is MUCH better for TV viewing and almost rivals my brand new 55" LED Sony in image quality with DirecTV and even internet video apps such as Hulu+

Great HDTV picture quality that I now have to curb myself from wasting lamp hours watching regular HD TV on the RS40 (Comedy Central, TBS/TNT, Discovery, NatGeo...etc) and I try to limit TV veiwing on the RS40 for ESPN and NFL/NHL/NBA and Soccer, which all look much much better with CMD Mode 3 turned on.


Damnsam77,


A few questions if you would please!


In what manner is the RS40 MUCH better for TV viewing than your RS20?

How is the RS40 and it's color calibration potential compared to the RS20 with it's CMS? Do you miss the RS20 CMS capability?

Does the RS40 handle motion any better than the RS20?

I am trying to decide if I should sell a brand new RS20 with warranty that I have before I use it and then get the RS40?

One of my main concerns is overall Brightness over time particularly with 2d viewing! I would like to go with a 120" wide scope AT screen with a probable 16 to 16.5 foot throw!

Keep the RS20 or get the new RS40?.....HMMMMMMMM?


...Glenn
post #2559 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

The RS40 is definitely better than my old RS20 when it comes to sports and TV viewing. I honestly did not care for TV viewing and sports with the RS20 because the image quality was simply not good enough.

Fast forward to December 2010, and I can tell you that the RS40 is MUCH better for TV viewing and almost rivals my brand new 55" LED Sony in image quality with DirecTV and even internet video apps such as Hulu+

Great HDTV picture quality that I now have to curb myself from wasting lamp hours watching regular HD TV on the RS40 (Comedy Central, TBS/TNT, Discovery, NatGeo...etc) and I try to limit TV veiwing on the RS40 for ESPN and NFL/NHL/NBA and Soccer, which all look much much better with CMD Mode 3 turned on.

Thats great to hear, I am upgrading to the 40, even though I am not at all unhappy with my HD1. Its just time to do it. I had 3 dif pjs in 3 years before the JVC.

Tony
post #2560 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

I have personally demoed the HD80, which is DLP based obviously, years ago when I was shopping for either an Epson 6500ub or JVC RS20. And even then I thought the RS20 (calibrated) looked better than the HD80 (also calibrated).

What I remember about the Optoma though that it sounded like a jet engine in comparison to how whisper quite the RS20 was, which is the same case as with the RS40, it is also very quite in normal lamp mode, and still not as loud in high lamp mode as the Optoma is in normal lamp mode from memory. I just remember the HD80 being extremely and annoyingly loud, sounded like a fridge compressor going off.

The one thing I can say about DLPs, specifically the HD80 is that they are SUPER SHARP, but the overall picture and color fidelity and high native contrast ratio plus those amazingly inky blacks on the RS20 made the choice very easy. The JVC RS series of projectors generally have a softer film like image quality, while DLPs can look noticeably sharper but not as film like.

Everything I mentioned about the RS20 applies pretty much and to a better extent to the RS40, with the exception of a full CMS, which is not available on the RS40.

So in other words, I liked the RS20 much more than the HD80, and I definitely think the RS40 is noticeably better in almost every aspect than the RS20, so do the math

You are absolutely right about the jet engine noise. It's not so bad if you run it with 24fps.
Thanks for your response. It was very helpful!!
post #2561 of 9660
Over in the RS50 forum they were discussing the digital noise issue and how it is pretty noticeable at short viewing distances. It would seem that those complaining are suggesting it is readily noticeable (and cause for reconsidering their purchase). Do those of you with the RS40 notice it? That is a deal killer as far as I am concerned if it is in any way apparent. My current projector does not have any issues with digital noise.
post #2562 of 9660
In an effort to troubleshoot some issues with my projector, I moved the RS40 to the dining table and projecting only abt 40-50" size image on the wall.

I noticed the image feels like the sharpness dial is turned way up, causing noise. In actuality, the sharpness controls are at minimum. Not sure if it's cos the DNR controls are also set at minimum.

But when I project a 120" image and seated abt 10 feet away, it's not noticeable.
post #2563 of 9660
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohjy View Post

Over in the RS50 forum they were discussing the digital noise issue and how it is pretty noticeable at short viewing distances. It would seem that those complaining are suggesting it is readily noticeable (and cause for reconsidering their purchase). Do those of you with the RS40 notice it? That is a deal killer as far as I am concerned if it is in any way apparent. My current projector does not have any issues with digital noise.

I have yet to notice this noise others are talking about. What is the definit way to see or prove if I have it or not?
post #2564 of 9660
Thread Starter 
Glenn,
Right off the bat, the RS40 was measured between 1200 and even 1400 uncalibrated lumens by Ekki. So we know for certain that it's going to be brighter than the RS20.

120hz CMD, or clear motion drive, was not implemented in the RS20, and the RS40 has an improved, but not perfect, CMD over the RS35/25 from 2009. So it may still not offer near perfect DI or DFI as the Sony or Panasonic projectors but it will offer a much better HD TV viewing experience than your RS20.

Plus let's not forget the elephant in the room this year, 3D!!!

And I am the last person you wanna ask about CMS, I didn't Even bother use it on the RS20. So I cannot honestly tell you if I miss it or not.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baumann View Post

Damnsam77,


A few questions if you would please!


In what manner is the RS40 MUCH better for TV viewing than your RS20?

How is the RS40 and it's color calibration potential compared to the RS20 with it's CMS? Do you miss the RS20 CMS capability?

Does the RS40 handle motion any better than the RS20?

I am trying to decide if I should sell a brand new RS20 with warranty that I have before I use it and then get the RS40?

One of my main concerns is overall Brightness over time particularly with 2d viewing! I would like to go with a 120" wide scope AT screen with a probable 16 to 16.5 foot throw!

Keep the RS20 or get the new RS40?.....HMMMMMMMM?


...Glenn
post #2565 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by blee0120 View Post

When the hide button is pressed on, is the lamp being used?

Yes, most definitely. The hide button acts just like you are display at full field 0% pattern (like with a fade to black scene on a movie at total darkness).
post #2566 of 9660
Joe - regarding DLP and 3D - I know what you mean about the rainbows with DLP (although personally I do not see them). My understanding is that DLP will gain very big advantages once alternative light sources are used and the color wheel can be eliminated. Perhaps something to look forward to.
post #2567 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohjy View Post

Over in the RS50 forum they were discussing the digital noise issue and how it is pretty noticeable at short viewing distances. It would seem that those complaining are suggesting it is readily noticeable (and cause for reconsidering their purchase). Do those of you with the RS40 notice it? That is a deal killer as far as I am concerned if it is in any way apparent. My current projector does not have any issues with digital noise.

if you stare at something long enough, you are going to find all it's faults. I can see a little bit of digital noise on certain gray screens if I am standing 6 inches in front of the screen. Step back a foot, it's gone. I certainly can't see it from normal seating distance.

i'm relatively critical, but if this is the noise that is being discussed, I think it's blown a bit out of proportion. I would be more concerned with good convergence, even focus and uniformity across the screen.
post #2568 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Joe - regarding DLP and 3D - I know what you mean about the rainbows with DLP (although personally I do not see them). My understanding is that DLP will gain very big advantages once alternative light sources are used and the color wheel can be eliminated. Perhaps something to look forward to.

Hopefully it will. And I was reading in a science magazine (can't recall which one) that a nano material has been developed that absorbs light better than just about anything else known to man. It sounds like something that could be used to control light spill in a projector, cost permitting. They're using it now in telescopes, so they can eliminate stray reflections and peer deeper into the universe. Lasers, DLP, highly absorptive surfaces - sounds like a recipe for high contrast and extremely high frame refresh rates. Great 2D and great 3D. Win/win.
post #2569 of 9660
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

if you stare at something long enough, you are going to find all it's faults. I can see a little bit of digital noise on certain gray screens if I am standing 6 inches in front of the screen. Step back a foot, it's gone. I certainly can't see it from normal seating distance.

i'm relatively critical, but if this is the noise that is being discussed, I think it's blown a bit out of proportion. I would be more concerned with good convergence, even focus and uniformity across the screen.

If Jason cannot see it on his RS40, then I sure as heck won't see it on mine and yes he is "relatively" critical
post #2570 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

No calibration has Been shared or posted on the owner's thread so far. There is, however, a 5 color CMS menu within the service menu which no one has reported to have used so far (more to come)

How to get to service menu:
Press up, down, right, left, enter (press these buttons in the sequence mentioned but do it very fast)

I'm going to have mine calibrated by an ISF professional. Anyone checked to see if this works?
post #2571 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

if you stare at something long enough, you are going to find all it's faults. I can see a little bit of digital noise on certain gray screens if I am standing 6 inches in front of the screen. Step back a foot, it's gone. I certainly can't see it from normal seating distance.

i'm relatively critical, but if this is the noise that is being discussed, I think it's blown a bit out of proportion. I would be more concerned with good convergence, even focus and uniformity across the screen.

I agree that if you can't see if when your more than a foot or so back from the screen then its a non-issue. However clearly this is not the case in his situation. Have you seen the video of this in action that he posted?
post #2572 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan P. View Post

I was at Lowe's hardware and seen someone in line with a couple of huge heavy duty steel shelf brackets. That's what I'll be using. I plan on using 1/2" (or thicker) plywood for the shelf. This thing needs a huge shelf to accomodate it's size plus breathing space behind it for the vents. I'll probably leave some space between the wall and the back edge of the shelf for better air flow. This is a custom job. Better make sure you mount only to the studs too. If the studs don't match up to where the brackets are going, mount plywood to the studs, then mount the brackets to the plywood, and then paint it to match the wall.

In my situation I'm in the basement so the I don't expect any sw LFE vibrations through the concrete foundation. However, I do have to re-locate my 2 back speakers. I'll be moving those off the wall and onto celing brackets so only the pj is on the back wall. I'm not using a ceiling mount for the pj because I don't want foot traffic on the floor above to cause vibrations. That's a more likely source of vibrations in my case so I need to rule that out.


You'd almost be better off with something like this since this thing weighs a lot more than HD brackets might support plus it supports the RPMA281 mount:

post #2573 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

I agree that if you can't see if when your more than a foot or so back from the screen then its a non-issue. However clearly this is not the case in his situation. Have you seen the video of this in action that he posted?

Can you link to the video, I was looking around in the RS50 thread and didn't see it. thanks!
post #2574 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

I have yet to notice this noise others are talking about. What is the definit way to see or prove if I have it or not?

I remember back in early 2008 There was a big issue with the BENQ W5000 having excessive noise. People made a big deal about and subsequent firmware did improve this noise issue. In reality, I think it was overblown, and, in fact, the actual remedy was lowering the sharpness control. Compared to previous models, it had a sharper picture. As the resolving factor increased, more detail was evident, good and bad. Now whether the firmware fixed the problem, I don't know. JVC's are more detailed/sharper than in the past due to lens improvements. Details including noise are more resolved. If your not used to a super sharp picture I can see it coming off with a hard edge to it. It's a different look. DLP has been described as looking digital or over analytical. While I'm pro DLP, I agree with that. My family and friends that have JVCs always comment on how sharp the picture and wish their FP was like that. But you do have more garbage that shows as well. Finally I'll find out next week if this will be an issue. I doubt it coming from DLP. Maybe there is a legitimate noise issue/problem with these units, or it could just be they resolve like never before.
post #2575 of 9660
post #2576 of 9660
Had a major malfunction yesterday. Actually 2. I went to watch a movie and the lamp done the dreaded wouldnt turn on all the way thing where just a pin hole light was shinning. Remote dead so I unplugged the pj waited one miniute and powered back on. I had to do it numerous times before I could get mine to come on. Atleast 30 agonizing miniutes. The 2nd malfunction was I turned down the tempature in my theater fridge the other day since I thought the soda could be a tad cooler. When I opened the door I notice that many had exploded because they were froze. So in essence the pj froze and the fridge froze over. lmao
post #2577 of 9660
Quote:

Looks like it uses polarized layers of glass on flat panel tv's, doesnt look like it willbe for front pj's. But cool otherwise.
Tony
post #2578 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Great HDTV picture quality that I now have to curb myself from wasting lamp hours watching regular HD TV on the RS40 (Comedy Central, TBS/TNT, Discovery, NatGeo...etc) and I try to limit TV veiwing on the RS40 for ESPN and NFL/NHL/NBA and Soccer, which all look much much better with CMD Mode 3 turned on.

So how much are the bulbs for the RS40's? Are they in the typical $500 range? Seems strange to me that after spending $3,000+ on a projector one would curb viewing glorious HDTV on it to save some life on a $500 bulb. Or is it something else other than the cost?
post #2579 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post

You'd almost be better off with something like this since this thing weighs a lot more than HD brackets might support plus it supports the RPMA281 mount:


Is that a Tron Recognizer or a Klingon Bird of Prey?
post #2580 of 9660
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Joe - regarding DLP and 3D - I know what you mean about the rainbows with DLP (although personally I do not see them). My understanding is that DLP will gain very big advantages once alternative light sources are used and the color wheel can be eliminated. Perhaps something to look forward to.

Not to go too far off topic....but I read a very thorough review on the Vango, which uses a LED light source (supposedly immune from rainbow), and the reviewer still claimed to be able to see some rainbow. I doubt that you can ever really completely eliminate rb with a single chip DLP. You gotta have three chips.
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