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Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 10

post #271 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:34pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by monstosity12 View Post

Damnsam -

Im curouis to know how long the power cable for the jvc projector is? This would help a lot since I need to know if I will have enough length to reach my UPS through my ceiling through a wall plate?

Thanks so much Dambsam.

It's very long, i would say no less than 10 feet, right now i have it bundled underneath the mount bracket but i will pull the cable out when i get home and measure it for you.
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post #272 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:35pm
Sam,

Appreciate all your contributions. Any observations yet on the differences between the JVC and X103 glasses?
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post #273 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

She is a great wife, but sometimes I go to far with the 30 hour marathons like i did e past two days

If your doing "30 hour marathons" with her, no wonder she lets you do whatever you want. Reminds of blazing saddles, how the girl did everything for him after a "marathon" lol.
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post #274 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:36pm
Sam, congratulations on your RS40.

I've been skimming through the 3D discussions, but I have seen several times that the effective lumens remaining after going through the glasses is just a few hundred, so I must say I'm scratching my head over your experience with 3D brightness.
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post #275 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:39pm
just curious, where is the rs40 made? japan or china? also are the 50 and 60 manufactured at the same location?
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post #276 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:41pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post


@ damnsam77 Do you also prefer the wide colour setting for 2D or just 3D? Try the other gamma modes too (plus the extra adjustments they've added on the X3/RS40) as I've found gamma makes a very big difference to the picture's depth, etc. It's probably the reason why I wasn't massively impressed at the UK X7 demo as it was running in THX mode, but uncalibrated, so probably running below 2.2 (maybe nearer to 2.0 for all I know). My lowly HD350 seemed better when I got home afterwards as I'm running a fully calibrated 2.3 gamma in a very dark room. I'm not saying my HD350 is better than an RS50 (or even an RS40), but that gamma can level the results.

I peronsally liked the standard preset (rec709) for 2D viewing while i liked the Wide1 for 3D because it makes the colors so vibrant and pop-ish! I will need to learn more about gamma adjustments and anything else i can do to continue improving the 2D and 3D PQ, but as y'all saw from the 2D screenshots this baby is primed nicely right out of the box for a guy who is not very picky, but still selective.
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post #277 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:42pm
Just remember that "brightness" is a misnomer. The "brightness" adjustment adjusts black level, and this is why others are saying you are probably crushing blacks. If you set black level too low, it will take near black information and turn it into black information, resulting in lost shadow detail / crushed blacks.

Conversely, the contrast setting adjusts white level (which is closer to what the lay person thinks of as "brightness"). If white is eye blinding bright, or more specifically if you are getting white clipping (i.e., loss of detail in near whites), then you need to reduce the contrast setting.

However, I would do as others have recommended and adjust the iris first and check the results. Then use the AVS free disc to set your brightness and contrast levels using the onscreen instructions.
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post #278 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

??? brightness is not a universal setting, it is dependent upon screen size, gain, bulb hours/settings etc. So just because 0 is perfect for you, does not mean it is for everyone else.

Screensize has no bearing on brightness setting. That would be aperture. If you step down the brightness you WILL lose the bottom shades of black. No matter what screensize or type you have, this is about the internal processing of the signal.

I can see the possibility with negative gain screens that you may need to lift the brightness.

There is a "correct" brightness setting. It is one where black is as black as it can be, and there is no loss/crush of any of the shades.

With most calibrations typically this will be -1 , 0 or +1. If you look at previous calibrated settings with RS20s and other JVC projectors, they are nearly always one of those 3 values regardless of their set-up.
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post #279 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Screensize has no bearing on brightness setting. That would be aperture. If you step down the brightness you WILL lose the bottom shades of black. No matter what screensize or type you have, this is about the internal processing of the signal.

I can see the possibility with negative gain screens that you may need to lift the brightness.

There is a "correct" brightness setting. It is one where black is as black as it can be, and there is no loss/crush of any of the shades.

With a meter typically this will be -1 , 0 or +1. If you look at previous calibrated settings with RS20s and other JVC projectors, they are nearly always one of those 3 values regardless of their set-up.

Some one who is running a 200" screen is not going to have the same brightness setting as if he had a 50" screen.

There is one correct setting PER setup. Actually it can change with source as well. Your example is 3 possible settings, which goes along with that there is not 1 universal setting.
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post #280 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

Some one who is running a 200" screen is not going to have the same brightness setting as if he had a 50" screen.

There is one correct setting PER setup. Actually it can change with source as well. Your example is 3 possible settings, which goes along with that there is not 1 universal setting.

I would love to demonstrate this to you, but you would see that is not correct. Right now I am on an 80" screen, and my brightness is zero. Are you suggesting on a 50" screen I would lower it? If I did so, black would NOT get any blacker, and I would just start pushing the lower shades into black and losing them. The projector can't get any darker when you lower the brightness...all it will do is make shades 1,2 and 3 etc, become the same as shade 0.

On a 200" screen you would need a more powerful bulb, not raising the black level. If you raise brightness you are reducing your contrast ratio!

One use of a brightness control, could be source related such as laserdiscs where the 7.5 IRE for NTSC discs wasn't taken into account.
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post #281 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:54pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

Sam, congratulations on your RS40.

I've been skimming through the 3D discussions, but I have seen several times that the effective lumens remaining after going through the glasses is just a few hundred, so I must say I'm scratching my head over your experience with 3D brightness.

I will put it this way, the brightness in 3D (no glasses) is VERY BRIGHT, and the brigthness levels with the glasses on are anywhere from Great (bright day time colorful scenes on open season) and satisfactory (primarily on dark or night scenes, everything still looks great and visibe, but the actual color depth/punch is eaten up a bit, and not as glamorous as the bright day scenes)

Asi mentioned earlier, the 3D picture without the glasses on really reminded me of Zombie's HP screenshots where everything looked very bright a clear (although the images doubled without the glasses on). Once the glasses activate, you lose a significant amount of light but it's still at 110" noticeably brighter than my 55" Sony 3D picture and many other 3D flat panels i have demoed at stoes. I will also say that the RS40 3D picture with glasses on was still brighter than the RS20 2D picture when i last used it at 1300 hours.

3D brightness with the glasses on is more than bright enough right now (under 10 hours) but i think some of the people here with high gain or high performance screens will be quite shocked at how bright and glowing the 3d image will look even after putting on the glasses .
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post #282 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:59pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Miller View Post

Sam, have you been able to try gaming on your RS40? I'm interested in motion resolution and latency.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aztech View Post

+1

please say you're a gamer sam, and say you will test out modern warfare 2 for us... *quietly prays to the heavens*

I will try black ops tonight in both 3D and 2D oh you betchurazz i am a gamer !
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post #283 of 9660
12/9/10 at 1:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

It's very long, i would say no less than 10 feet, right now i have it bundled underneath the mount bracket but i will pull the cable out when i get home and measure it for you.

Thanks very much Damnsam. I appreciate this a lot.

Regarding your impressions, you got me very excited as this will be my very first projector, and I have been researching months. Glad to see you happy with you projector. Now go have some alone time with your wife, oh I mean projector
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post #284 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

Some one who is running a 200" screen is not going to have the same brightness setting as if he had a 50" screen.

Why do you believe that? How would they be different?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

There is one correct setting PER setup. Actually it can change with source as well. Your example is 3 possible settings, which goes along with that there is not 1 universal setting.

I would say that Jon is more right than you on this one although the best setting can vary slightly (like Jon said with the -1, 0, and 1) given what the Brightness setting does. Do you know what the Brightness setting is for? Do you think it is the correct control for doing what damnsam77 wanted?

--Darin
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post #285 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

I will try black ops tonight in both 3D and 2D oh you betchurazz i am a gamer !

Actually I think this game is the best example on the PS3. You do lose resolution (720p) and other parameters are changed (lowered) in the graphics. However, the sense of depth and the way you look down the barrel of a gun to precisely target is very impressive indeed.
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post #286 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

I will put it this way, the brightness in 3D (no glasses) is VERY BRIGHT, and the brigthness levels with the glasses on are anywhere from Great (bright day time colorful scenes on open season) and satisfactory (primarily on dark or night scenes, everything still looks great and visibe, but the actual color depth/punch is eaten up a bit, and not as glamorous as the bright day scenes)

Asi mentioned earlier, the 3D picture without the glasses on really reminded me of Zombie's HP screenshots where everything looked very bright a clear (although the images doubled without the glasses on). Once the glasses activate, you lose a significant amount of light but it's still at 110" noticeably brighter than my 55" Sony 3D picture and many other 3D flat panels i have demoed at stoes. I will also say that the RS40 3D picture with glasses on was still brighter than the RS20 2D picture when i last used it at 1300 hours.

3D brightness with the glasses on is more than bright enough right now (under 10 hours) but i think some of the people here with high gain or high performance screens will be quite shocked at how bright and glowing the 3d image will look even after putting on the glasses .

The iris should compensate for the differences in brightness between 2D and 3D modes now, and down the line. I expect I may have to close down the iris considerably with 2D content in the beginning, which should push the on/off contrast even higher, if I'm understanding how the iris works (though ANSI may actually go down). If my HP makes the 3D too bright initially, that's a very good sign that I'll be able to maintain 3D "punch" for a longer period of the lamp's life. I should also be able to maintain image brightness for 2D, though the on/off contrast may suffer as the iris is opened up to compensate for lamp aging. I'll defer to those more experienced with such things. If these assumptions are wrong, I'd appreciate someone stepping in to correct them.
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post #287 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

Some one who is running a 200" screen is not going to have the same brightness setting as if he had a 50" screen.

There is one correct setting PER setup. Actually it can change with source as well. Your example is 3 possible settings, which goes along with that there is not 1 universal setting.

Mike,

I think the issue is that you're failing to distinguish between what you call 'brightness' i.e. how bright (or foot lambert rich) a picture appears, and the 'brightness control', which impacts black level, rather than white level (which is what the contrast control is for).
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post #288 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post

This is OT but I am right in the middle of this sort of adjustment. I'm losing shadow detail with my rs20 so I bumped the lower gamma. Sounds like I should turn up the brightness instead, providing I don't get white crush on the other end.

I'll delete this post if/when you respond.

I think you might have adjusted the right thing with the gamma.

As RS20s age the gamma changes and what you describe is a typical symptom. So in your case, I think you did the right thing. There is no substitution of course for adjusting gamma with meter and software.

If you were to raise brightness, I suspect, you will actually be lifting the black level of shade 0 (and the missing shades with it) and therefore all you would achieve would be loss of contrast ratio.

To put it another way. If you drop brightness, you will get black crush. The more you lower it, the more shades will become the same as shade 0, black.

As you raise brightness, you lift the black level making it less black, and you squash all the shades closer together, reducing the on/off contrast ratio.

The easiest way to set brightness, is to make sure the room is completely dark. Use a test disc to output a completely black image (0 IRE). Set the brightness to something like +10. Then keep reducing it, until you note that the black level no longer changes as you adjust. That point where moving it anymore won't change black, is the correct setting. And in every JVC so far that I have seen, it has been -1, 0, or +1

Having set brightness correctly and still losing the lower shades, or they are all merged together so you can't distinguish easily between shades 0-10 then its gamma that needs adjustment.
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post #289 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I am anxious to see the measured lumen output in 3D mode. Petri measured ~600 on the pre-production model.

Sam are you saying the 3D mode is brighter than the 2D mode (without the glasses)? When JVC said 1300 lumens, we were all assuming this was 2D only and that the 3D mode as going to drop quite a bit. I'd really like to have this cleared up so we are on the same page since this has been a confusing topic for a while.

Have you watched any non animations? I would recommend Street Dance 3D or Step up 3D. Even if you don't like the content (I enjoyed both movies) these are recently made movies shot natively in 3D. There is plenty of bright, mixed brightness and low brightness scenes to torture test a 3D display. Also plenty of fast paced movement which could show ghosting or flicker.

I hope someone can measure the lumen output soon from the production models.


I wish i had the tools to measure lumen output but i don't.

I will safely say that (lumens measuring or not) someone will have to be blind to think the 3D preset brightness without glasses isn't at least 50% more than 2D. JVC definitely unleashed the lumens flood gates in the 3D preset (Iris at fully open and lamp at high mode). There is no mistaking the instant brigthness boost in 3D without the glasses on,however with the glasses on i can almost see that 50% increase reduced by 50% or slightly more,but it soooo much better than what I had expected with all the doom and flood brigthness talk with the pre-pro units.
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post #290 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:22pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Actually I think this game is the best example on the PS3. You do lose resolution (720p) and other parameters are changed (lowered) in the graphics. However, the sense of depth and the way you look down the barrel of a gun to precisely target is very impressive indeed.

I got it for the 360 since it's in 1080p and it looked visibly better than the PS3 version which a friend let me borrow. This game may have some off and on 3D ghosting issues but once you play it in 3D, nothing ever looks good in 2D again as far as gaming.
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post #291 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

I got it for the 360 since it's in 1080p and it looked visibly better than the PS3 version which a friend let me borrow. This game may have some off and on 3D ghosting issues but once you play it in 3D, nothing ever looks good in 2D again as far as gaming.

Ah! So maybe I should get hold of a 360 copy then. Are you saying its full 1080p even in 3D mode on the 360?
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post #292 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by darinp2 View Post

Why do you believe that? How would they be different?
I would say that Jon is more right than you on this one although the best setting can vary slightly (like Jon said with the -1, 0, and 1) given what the Brightness setting does. Do you know what the Brightness setting is for? Do you think it is the correct control for doing what damnsam77 wanted?

--Darin

Let's not be stupid or demeaning and ask me what the setting is for. Everyone here knows it's to set black level. Do you think the black level on a 50" and a 200" would be the same? You think they would have the EXACT SAME brightness setting? I'm not talking 5 ticks difference, I never said what Sam did in regards to brightness was correct either. You don't think the black bar (not blacker than black) would disappear faster on a 200 inch screen when adjusting brightness than on a 50" screen??

There is no "more right", what Jon said is if one person had it at 0, then they should all be 0 and not be changed, which is not the case. I gave other reasons besides screen size. Point being there is not ONE universally correct brightness setting as Jon implied. It's ridiculous that a bunch of you are even agreeing or implying with this!
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post #293 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Screensize has no bearing on brightness setting. That would be aperture. If you step down the brightness you WILL lose the bottom shades of black. No matter what screensize or type you have, this is about the internal processing of the signal.

I can see the possibility with negative gain screens that you may need to lift the brightness.

There is a "correct" brightness setting. It is one where black is as black as it can be, and there is no loss/crush of any of the shades.

With most calibrations typically this will be -1 , 0 or +1. If you look at previous calibrated settings with RS20s and other JVC projectors, they are nearly always one of those 3 values regardless of their set-up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

Some one who is running a 200" screen is not going to have the same brightness setting as if he had a 50" screen.

There is one correct setting PER setup. Actually it can change with source as well. Your example is 3 possible settings, which goes along with that there is not 1 universal setting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

I would love to demonstrate this to you, but you would see that is not correct. Right now I am on an 80" screen, and my brightness is zero. Are you suggesting on a 50" screen I would lower it? If I did so, black would NOT get any blacker, and I would just start pushing the lower shades into black and losing them. The projector can't get any darker when you lower the brightness...all it will do is make shades 1,2 and 3 etc, become the same as shade 0.

On a 200" screen you would need a more powerful bulb, not raising the black level. If you raise brightness you are reducing your contrast ratio!

One use of a brightness control, could be source related such as laserdiscs where the 7.5 IRE for NTSC discs wasn't taken into account.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darinp2 View Post

Why do you believe that? How would they be different?
I would say that Jon is more right than you on this one although the best setting can vary slightly (like Jon said with the -1, 0, and 1) given what the Brightness setting does. Do you know what the Brightness setting is for? Do you think it is the correct control for doing what damnsam77 wanted?

--Darin

Although I would agree with Darin and Jon in general, I would also say that this is only true if you are in HDMI Standard. If you are using the enhanced settings, then brightness (meaning the control with that name on the PJ)needs to be adjusted much more than when on standard (which, in my experience, has always been spot on on 0, irrespective of the age of the lamp and the size of the screen). When using HDMI enhanced, the right brightness setting was around -6 on my RS20.

Regarding adjusting how bright the PJ is, as everyone said it's not done with brightness but either with the contrast setting, or preferably with adjusting the iris.

I still believe this is what Sam has done (adjusting the iris to -7 to reduce how bright the PJ looked), but it would be nice if he could confirm, and also if he could tell us if he is using HDMI enhanced or HDMI standard (unless he's using the "ultra white" mode, which he shouldn't unless his source is also compatible)
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post #294 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

I would love to demonstrate this to you, but you would see that is not correct. Right now I am on an 80" screen, and my brightness is zero. Are you suggesting on a 50" screen I would lower it?

Did I compare an 80" and a 50"?? No. I purposely made the screen sizes hugely disproportional because the brightness setting is not finite enough to make a change between an 80" and 50" screen. So if it were 0 on an 80" screen and we had an infinitely resolving brightness setting, brightness might be set at -.20 on the 50" screen.
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post #295 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:54pm
With the greatest respect, the brightness setting wouldn't be any different for even the extreme size differences you suggest: It sets the cut off level for black in the input signal to the projector, so once it's set to match your particular equipment, this setting will not change whether you zoom from max to minimum: Try it with a 0IRE pattern and see at what brightness setting you get to the point where it won't go any darker, then try the same test with the projector zoomed fully the opposite way (who cares about overspill for this test?).
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post #296 of 9660
12/9/10 at 2:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenjabil View Post

Mike,

I think the issue is that you're failing to distinguish between what you call 'brightness' i.e. how bright (or foot lambert rich) a picture appears, and the 'brightness control', which impacts black level, rather than white level (which is what the contrast control is for).

Get your facts straight. I never indicated that you would set your ftL or desired picture brightness with the "brightness" setting; I said there would not necessarily be the same brightness setting for all screen sizes. There's a difference, you fail to realize that.
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post #297 of 9660
12/9/10 at 3:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

With the greatest respect, the brightness setting wouldn't be any different for even the extreme size differences you suggest: It sets the cut off level for black in the input signal to the projector, so once it's set to match your particular equipment, this setting will not change whether you zoom from max to minimum: Try it with a 0IRE pattern and see at what brightness setting you get to the point where it won't go any darker, then try the same test with the projector zoomed fully the opposite way (who cares about overspill for this test?).

I could be wrong, as others have suggested lol, but I know from experience that when I once went from a 70" screen to a 92" screen with an RS1, I had to adjust brightness by 1 tick. Maybe it was a fluke, but it made the above black bar go from not (CORRECTION) from BARELY visible (no shadow detail), to visible.

You would have to do more than max zoom, you would have to move the projector back as well.

Do you guys think it would be the same brightness setting if you put a ND8 filter on the projector? honest question
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post #298 of 9660
12/9/10 at 3:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

Get your facts straight. I never indicated that you would set your ftL or desired picture brightness with the "brightness" setting; I said there would not necessarily be the same brightness setting for all screen sizes. There's a difference, you fail to realize that.

Okay, could you give us the different brigthness settings you've used on an rs10/20 or more recent JVC projector, and the screen size, so that we can see what you are talking about?

All the users I know have their brightness setting set to zero, as long as they are using the standard HDMI setting, because on these models , yes, it does happens to be the "right" setting. I've never had to set it to -1 or +1, but I tried to see if it could be better (with the right patterns of course). The OOTB setting was always the correct one.

My RS-20 was set to zero from day one until about two months ago (two years later), with a lamp having almost 1200 hours. My screen is 88" (diag 16/9). I've used it with a closed iris to start with, and as the lamp aged I went up to an iris fully open. I used it with a variety of sources (BD Player, HTPC, etc). The correct seeting has always been zero. Over its whole life.

Could you please give us your settings and their variations (screen size, lamp age, iris settings, HDMI settings) so that we can compare and understand better where you are coming from?
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post #299 of 9660
12/9/10 at 3:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

I just know from experience that when I once went from a 70" screen to a 92" screen with an RS1, I had to adjust brightness by 1 tick. Maybe it was a fluke, but it made the black bar go from visible, to BARELY visible.

I'm surprised by your experience: I used to zoom (when I didn't know any better ) and found that the same brightness setting was needed for both my 100" (diagonal) 16:9 content and for my 2.35:1 setting (which was effectively 133" diagonal) which is a slightly bigger range than your 70-92" swop. I'm always trying to make sure I get the best out of my projector, so I wouldn't raise the black level unneccesarily, even by one click (it's quite a noticable difference on the HD350 at least) unless it was necessary to see all the flashing bars down to 17IRE on the AVS HD709 disc.

On a side issue, I've found the brightness control a little coarse on my HD350: One click might crush the lowest blacks below 19IRE and another click allows 16IRE to be seen on the AVS test disc. I've been able to use the much finer adjustment in my VideoEQ to allow me to just see the 17IRE bar flashing and not raise the 16 bar. I think this attention to detail (and that I'm accustomed to seeing it) made me look for it on the X7 demo, where I (and some others) found that blacks were a little crushed, which I find makes them seem poorer even though the X7 must measure better than mine.

Anyway, enough OT...back to the X3/RS40: Has anyone measured the gamut properly after correcting the greyscale so that it is totally flat? The last attempt I saw still needed significant work to the greyscale, so I'd like to think the gamut would be further improved.
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post #300 of 9660
12/9/10 at 3:15pm
Thread Starter 
Please DISREGARD comments below, the Fast panning motion issue in 3D is now resolved. The culprit was the Denon 4311 upconverting/scaling options which were on everu source by default.PLEASE disregard all negative feedback about the fast moving panning scenes since the RS40 is now handling them very well

See updated post below

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19634154

###################################





This is all based on my early 3D experimentation from the wee hours of this morning and i wanted to mention this motion issue in Open Season (2nd or 3rd chapter when the Deer and Bear break into Th convenient store at night and start rummaging through the food and snacks) well there are like 2 or 3 Very quick camera panning where it goes to to bottom, bottom to top, left to right ..etc but really really fast. Well the RS40 seems to blur right through it with a weird motion, I really cannot describe it, you just have to see it for yourself. I played the same 3D footage via my Sony 55HX800 and an BDS570 and the quick panning motion issue is still there except the Ony handles it slightly better, where you can almost see what they are quickly annoying through, which the JVC almost feels like it blurs through the panning or almost feels like it skipped a couple of frames. But please know that It is by no means a show stopper, 99.9% of the movie looks magnificent, just a. Ouple. Quick panning scenes (which i think are source related and simply not 3D friendly) Maybe someone with a new 3D RS/X equipped showroom can take a 3D Open Season disc and try it.

Adam, don't you also have Open Season 3D?

Bottom line, the motions throughout the movie is phenomenal and i am still convinced that it blows away my 55" Sony LED 3D TV I'm every aspect of the 3D picture qualities. This is not only the new 3D projector to beat, at this incredibly cheap entry price, but i will take it any day over the best looking 3D plasma or LED.

And for some of the guys here with a screen under 100", i seriously recommend you size up! With projection it's all about the enveloping feel of a large 100"-150" 3D image, even the Sony 3D bluray intro, it looks infinitely mre believable with all of the outreaching 3D objects, versus the much smaller 55"-60" 3D TVs.
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