Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 103

Well I didn't notice any difference with the polarized filter in front of the projector. I did notice the screen changed from a hint of yellow to blue with or without a filter as I rotated the Real D glasses 90 degrees. I'm assuming that is normal though.

Look in the original dumpster thread where I posted a couple of diff times about the mini-din extension cable (mine is 15ft I think). I have installed it above my screen and never have any issues in 3D mode with my Xantach remote system (cause the room is FLOODED with IR when 3D is on!).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post19520567

Welcome to the "DARK" side Jason!!

Once you go BLACK... you NEVER go back!!

I took a few shots of a 100% white screen yesterday. I'll try to get to some better shots tonight, including full color RGB ones. You have to understand that I'm not used to this camera yet, and the angle wasn't the best. I wasn't centered (maybe a part of why the right side looks darker) and I didn't use a tripod. Also, don't be concerned about the blotches. They're on the screen. I didn't realize how much it needs a cleaning. I dust it about once a month, but my last "thorough" cleaning obviously left some residue that's discolored over the last few months. The panels are not blotchy.

It seems to me that the areas which have the pinkish tint correspond to the areas where the convergence looks the worst. Take a look at the upper left corner. This is where red (or red and blue) look like an exit ramp from green. Could this be causing some of the problem? I know I read somewhere that some people have noticed pink banding, but this doesn't look like banding to me. It looks like the colors are off where convergence is worse. Just speculation, though.

Joe, it looks alright to me! Yes, it is fractionally more pink in places, particularly the bottom, and fractionally more green at the top. But overall that looks acceptable to me. These things are never perfect and you would never notice this in normal viewing. Even at the angle you took the photo, it does look slightly darker on the right side. Sometimes the camera "seems" to exaggerate things, but actually its just because you are viewing it compressed into the size of your computer monitor. The chances are, it may well be slightly darker on one side, and that is fairly common too. Shading and uniformity issues become less apparent the bigger the screen you view it on!

But I see nothing of concern here. Convergence issues can not affect a 100 IRE field. That is just coincidence

I'd like to know what convergence is considered acceptable by JVC USA, JVC Canada and/or the individual dealers. AVS seems to be QC'ing convergence among other things, so I wonder what the threshold is for dealers and JVC themselves. Hopefully there isn't going to be a mis-match for what customers want to see in convergence. Interesting that the one RS50 shows better focus across the screen. I would hope that the RS40 and RS50 don't differ too much in sharpness/convergence in general.

AVS will only QC the projector if you also purchase the calibration. Otherwise, they will ship the next available projector in the factory box.

My focus issue with the 40 is purely coincidental, it could have been easily reversed. same thing with the convergence, a number of folks have had issues with convergence on the 50 as well.

This is old news for the 3 panel front projectors, due to manufacturing tolerances, there are going to be bombs, middle of the road, and golden samples. My guess is that the majority of people don't go pixel peeping with single pixel test patterns or staring 2 inches from the screen looking for flaws, focus issues, etc.

What was interesting to me is when I put up my HP a few weeks ago, 2d immediately was a dramatic difference, but when I checked out 3d, it did not seem all that much brighter from what I remembered of the 130 (with glasses on). When I pulled out my ST130 sample though, it showed just how much brighter the HP was vs the 130 for 3d. Maybe since we are dealing with such low lumens/Ftl to begin with the brightness jump without throwing up a sample just does not seem as dramatic as compared to 2d with much higher lumens/Ftl? I dont know............the brightness jump is VERY obvious when throwing up a sample though, but just switching from the 130 to the HP the difference did not seem dramatic like it did for 2d

I think what I am getting at is we need more lumens for 3d! I dont know how realistic this is for next years model, but the more lumens the better!

Need to get "Ice Age"............ Thanks for the info........I will try and track this down.

Didn't the ST130 retain a good deal of the polarization according to Ron's tests? I am trying to remember, do you have the 103 and the JVC's?

Maybe this explains why there wasn't a drastic difference in 3D.

It is one of the dimmer titles unfortunately, but man, the 3d is awesome! I am sure the HP is helping out with this one and might have been too dim on the ST130.

Jon, Joe--

On white screens it's often best to inverse the image as they used to and still do in Particle Physics bubble chamber photos and astronomy images.

I did just that and oh dears

We had a discussion about this earlier.

In 3D mode, contrast drops off sharply due to the active shutter system, so the effective contrast can drop to abt 12k:1 on the 40. In dark scenes on the 40 like in the night opening scene of the 40, I found the picture looked more washed out, less shadow details than the 60.

What!?! Are you suggesting there actually are people that don't spend most of their spare time staring at pixel test patterns? What's the point of getting one of these babies if you're only going to watch movies, sports, games or other irrelevant distractions on it?

Lol no kidding. Anyone I show my setup to is blown away that this available to the general consumer. Nobody thinks of putting projectors in their house. We are rare in the grand scheme.

Sometimes going on the forumn is the worst thing we can do. It seems we all start seeing problems we might not have seen on our own.

Damn us all!

I have been asking this question for several years - since the RS1 came out. I have yet to get an answer. Why do you think that is?

Are you serious? What does it look like now?

In a practical sense, how much MC is too much MC? Very few of us are going to get perfectly converged projectors. When looking at the AVS fine crosshatch pattern we'd all like to see solid white lines everywhere we look even 6" from the screen. I'm sure we'd all agree that we better see a solid white grid with one white dot in the middle at the seated position.

So, what's a fair criteria here? Should the grid looks all white at say at 1/4, or 1/3 of the seating distance? 1/2? 2/3? Thoughts?

Wait, maybe this is the real one : )




Yeah anyway, it's easier for our eyes to distinguish dark from lights. Of course it's hard to say what's coming from your camera vs. the projector, but the gradient on the right is more apparent, as are the 'skull' like blobs throughout. I wonder what those are?

I reliable source within their company told me that horizontal vs. vertical polarization would be selectable as a software option. Its always possible he was misinformed since the product is so new. But he seemed quite confident in his answer. I'll try to get more clarification.

in my defense, I watched the RS40 for almost an entire month before I went looking for trouble.

all kidding aside, I think most enthusiasts here want to make sure they are getting the best they can, these aren't cheap projectors. My convergence was acceptable, but the focus issue was not. Now that I see how well my replacement (which just happens to a be a 50) looks, you can definitely tell the difference sitting in the seat watching movies.

It's luck of the draw. below average, average and for the fortunate few, the elusive golden sample.

Just fired up my x3 and am like 'wow' Night and day from the ol barco 808. So I do have a few quick questions:

1) Cant seem to get any DTV 3-d channels to work. I know from reading a bit that espn or whatever the football games were on didnt work but that some were able to at least pass some DTV 3-d content. How? I know the mini-me Lumiagen solves this by converting sbs to tab or something like that.

2) I see all of these test patterns to check convergence. Are they in an internal menu lik e w/ the Barco? If so how do I get to that menu? Or are they on some sort of DL content from the internet that you can pass thurough a cpu to the x3?

The free 3-d dl's I got from the ps3 were too cool. Can't wait to get my hands on more titles and get the DTV 3-d working as good as it will until DTV changes how they broadcast the 3-d signal.

Thanks for your time and help,
V

I'm not criticizing you. I too would be very nervous about these issues if I were to order one. At least in this respect purchasing a 1-chip DLP would be preferable.

The old ST130 retains a ton of polarization according to Darins tests. The newer G3 ST130 which is what I have also retained a decent amount, but not near as much as the older material from what Darin is reporting. Chances are this is contributing to my impressions to some degree. The HP though is still clearly brighter than my 130 with JVC glasses on when I throw up my 130 G3 sample, even in the 2 end seats of my couch which is where the HP is least bright in my setup (still a clear advantage even in these seats). In my middle/main seat, the advantage is even greater of course. I am just trying to figure out why it takes putting up the sample to realize how much brighter it is in 3d vs the 130 while it was immediately/dramatically obvious for 2d even without throwing up the sample? I am thinking its mainly because we are dealing with such low 3d lumens/Ftl to begin with (with glasses on) and even with a HP screen, it is still a relatively dim image compared to what we can get with 2d.

Well, it's like those "Wash Me" words that people scribble on windshields covered in dirt. It says I did a much lousier job cleaning the HP than I thought.

When you say "with the polarized filter in front of the projector' do you mean you were putting the fllter in the light path between the projector and the screen. If so, that's not the correct way to use the filter. You should put the filter in front of your eye and view the image on the screen thru the filter. I suspect that's what you actually did, but your wording was a little unclear.

Doh! Okay I'll try again. I put the filter in front of the pj light path

Edit: Yes, the brightness does change. 1-5, 5 being a biggest change. I'd give it a 2. It's more noticeable with the polarized camera lens than the Real D glasses.

make sure no projector adjustment menus are on the screen. On the remote, press up/down/right/left/center quickly. You might have to do it a few times in order to get it. you will see the options menu with all the test patterns, including the RGB patterns you have seen posted here.



On a different topic, the upcoming 3D BD release time frames are looking a little grim. Nothing new coming out soon?

http://www.3dmovielist.com/3ddvds.html

Serves me right for getting the Acer 3D a few months ago, now I've seen all the 3D content that is out. Although i'm pretty sure i'm the only one that has seen 'Street Dance 3D' which happens to be one of my 3D favorites. There are 2 dance 'battles' that are just awesome to watch in 3D. I never get tired of playing these 2 particular chapters over and over.

Guess I'm one of the lucky one's. I lovzz me some single pixel torture!

Is this the "Ghosting" you all are takling about on the 40's? Scary!!