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Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 108

post #3211 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post
There is no yellow grid..its a green one I think thats why people didn't respond to you.
Thank you for pointing that out. I cannot find a red tee on green grass so I guess that's why it looks yellow to me.

Are there test patterns to check convergence imbedded in the RS40?
post #3212 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by mshort520 View Post
How long would you recommend that I let it warm up to room temperature? 30 seconds, a minute, a minute and a half?
Man that cracked me up big time! Thanks for the laugh!
post #3213 of 9662
My RS40 post-calibration settings (done by homecinema.ch, certified isf, haa and thx dealer):

picture mode: cinema
contrast: 0
brightness: 0
Color: 15
Tint: 0
Color Space: Standard

Color Temp: Custom 1 ->
gain red = -8
gain green = 0
gain blue = -26
offset red = -1
offset green = 0
offset blue = 2
correction value = 6500k

lens aperture = -10
lamp power = normal
sharpness = 4
detail enhance = 7
noise reduction = 3
custom gamma: 2.3

calibration reports:




I will post some screenhots soon in the "show your screenshot" thread.
post #3214 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mshort520 View Post
The projector's here!! The projector"s here!! I noticed that some of you said you were waiting for the PJ to warm up to room temperature before turning it on. How long would you recommend that I let it warm up to room temperature? 30 seconds, a minute, a minute and a half?
It's not so much room temperature, we're mostly talking about the 20 min warm up period in order to display 3D with minimal or no ghosting. For 2D the picture looks good right off the bad, but it does appear to look slightly sharper and more focused after a 15-20 min period.

So you can watch 2D content right away, but for 3D let the lamp warm up for at least 15 mins in High Lamp mode, or 20-25 mins in normal lamo mode before you play any 3D. You have to do this every time the PJ's been off for more than an hour or two
post #3215 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post
I would only say that everyone should check these out with their own eyes........while I respect Arts opinion, it is just that and there are those (as evidence by some of the owners in these threads) who would disagree with what he is saying. I am all for more lumens in 3d, but even in the current state of these JVCs, we can still get a VERY good 3d experience at 110" or more. My 40 has truly taken my HT to the next level as far as the 3d goes and I am SO glad I did not wait another year like I was planning. Having said that, I might upgrade again next year if there are big strides in lumens/ghosting, but until then I get to enjoy what is honestly the best overall 3d I have ever seen Some of the 3d experiences I have had (Polar Express, HTTYD, Avatar, Open Season, some of the IMAX films, etc........) in my HT have been just amazing and like I said things have really been brought to the next level even with this entry level of 3d.

I have a friend that works up at Coors by the way and he really enjoys his job............good "benefits" I hear

OFF TOPIC...............I had 2 mind blowing audio movie experiences last night. If you guys have not checked out Scott Pilgrim and The Last Air Bender, do so! Both have reference audio and both are standouts as far as LFE.............2 of the best for audio of the 2010 blu rays I have listened to movie wise. Air Bender has a scene right near the end that ranks as one of the most amazing LFE moments I have ever experienced in my HT! Those who have seen it know the scene I am sure...........give this a rent (the movie is crappy IMO, so give it a rental to see if you like enough to buy which you probably wont) Scott Pilgrim was mind blowing as well with tons of ear candy throughout.........lots of great demo caliber audio with the big one being the band/twin battle...........amazing!

For any audio/bass heads who have not seen these 2 movies, check them both out!
Todd,
You could not have said it any better regarding the state of 3D today with the JVCs. It's near perfect, but it can only get better from here. More lumens, less cross talk, cheaper and lighter 3D glasses, CMD enabled for 3D...etc. But for a first year first gen 3D projectors, JVC really batted one out of the park IMHO.

Regarding your audio LFE experiences, I did watch Scott Pilgrim, first of all...what an AWESOME movie, for a gamer and musician like me, this movie HAD IT ALL, not to mention the main chick was this Amazingly hot looking nerdy chick with the blue and pink hair, she is not necessarily drop dead gorgeous, but I found her character and looks very alluring!

But as far as sound, I agree, the surround sound was TOP NOTCH! My bass shakers were constantly rumbling, and the overall sound was definitely what I would consider reference level, althought I am sure it would sound way better in your theater, than mine. I still have not seen the latest dud from Shaymalan, and I heard it was a dud! And the 3D conversion was supposedly awful which is why I have ignored this movie all together. So do you think its still worth watching just to experience the audio?
post #3216 of 9662
Thread Starter 
AmigoHD,
Thank you for contributing with your settings. I posted them on the first page and also linked to this post. Could you please provide us with more info about your screen type/fabric/gain and throw distance, screen size and ratio..etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AmigoHD View Post

My RS40 post-calibration settings (done by homecinema.ch, certified isf, haa and thx dealer):

picture mode: cinema
contrast: 0
brightness: 0
Color: 15
Tint: 0
Color Space: Standard

Color Temp: Custom 1 ->
gain red = -8
gain green = 0
gain blue = -26
offset red = -1
offset green = 0
offset blue = 2
correction value = 6500k

lens aperture = -10
lamp power = normal
sharpness = 4
detail enhance = 7
noise reduction = 3
custom gamma: 2.3

calibration reports:




I will post some screenhots soon in the "show your screenshot" thread.
post #3217 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I am also very sensitive to flicker. During the warmup period (about 15-20 mins) I can see the flicker through my Expand 103's, but then it diminishes by a significant amount, to the point where it's almost gone. almost..

I also own the Acer 3D DLP which provides 60hz vs the 48hz of the JVC per eye. The image on the Acer is rock solid through the Nvidia glasses. Overall, the slight flicker during warm up doesn't bother me.

I figured as more 40/50 owners came out, some folks would feel the same way I do about the brightness in 3D. We know it's about 600 lumens without the glasses in 3D mode and about 200 through the glasses with a new bulb. The acer was measured about 700 lumens and similar brightness through the glasses. I knew a few months ago I was going to need a High Power screen to be happy with viewing through the glasses. I have my JVC / Acer at eye level on the HP so I am getting the full gain which some have measured as high as 3.0. My guess is I am back up to about 600 lumens through the glasses and it looks 'just right'. It's noticeably brighter than my local Imax theaters (real Imax, not the local mall wannabe theater).

I have an older low gain screen and showed some joe 6 pack neighbors the low gain vs. the HP and the comments were equally positive for the HP while showing them before / after. My screen is 142" diag 16:9, so it's a bit on the large size, but the HP can easily handle it.

It's a crime the 2.8HP material has been discontinued.

Yes I think the High Power is a great solution for 3D but my problem is that I have gone with a 12' wide Acoustically Transparent Screen and for 2D Cinema Scope I simply am unwilling to give this arrangement up. Oh well, I just need to wait for a brighter solution I guess or maybe I can live with the dim picture for the occasional 3D movie and keep an extra bulb around for 3D and Superbowl Sunday when I need more light....LOL.

By the way, did Da-lite really discontinue and change the material for the High Power or did they simply re-evaluate and more conservatively rate the High Power down to 2.4?
post #3218 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by dangc View Post

Yes I think the High Power is a great solution for 3D but my problem is that I have gone with a 12' wide Acoustically Transparent Screen and for 2D Cinema Scope I simply am unwilling to give this arrangement up. Oh well, I just need to wait for a brighter solution I guess or maybe I can live with the dim picture for the occasional 3D movie and keep an extra bulb around for 3D and Superbowl Sunday when I need more light....LOL.

By the way, did Da-lite really discontinue and change the material for the High Power or did they simply re-evaluate and more conservatively rate the High Power down to 2.4?

It's a different material.
post #3219 of 9662
I keep reading all of these reviews on this projector, and its making me hungry to get mine.

Has anyone heard from AVS regarding the status of these projectors? I am way down on the list having ordered in late December; have we even begun nearing the bottom of the list yet?

Last week it seemed that we had only made it to early October.
post #3220 of 9662
Re: Calibration

I corrected my previous post for calibration settings, but I thought I would post again - the person who did the calibration used Natural. He tried Cinema and a couple of others but Natural turned out best as a starting point.

Screen: Stewart ST130 100" 16/9
Throw: 2.13

Calibration: VideoEQ/Chromapure

Color Mode: Natural

Contrast 1
Brightness 0
Color -9
Tint -2
Sharpness 0
Color Space Standard
Lens Aperature 0

Gain Red 0
Gain Green 0
Gain Blue -16
Offset Red -3
Offset Green -2
Offset Blue 0

If anyone would like the full calibration report in .pdf format, pm me with your email address.
post #3221 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingDeezie View Post

I keep reading all of these reviews on this projector, and its making me hungry to get mine.

Has anyone heard from AVS regarding the status of these projectors? I am way down on the list having ordered in late December; have we even begun nearing the bottom of the list yet?

Last week it seemed that we had only made it to early October.

From what I have heard JVC, like you said, is just now getting through the October orders. Expect to wait possibly another month or little longer. But hopefully by late February all ordered through January are fulfilled.
post #3222 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Thanks Dennis! I updated your post in the first page.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisBP View Post

Re: Calibration

I corrected my previous post for calibration settings, but I thought I would post again - the person who did the calibration used Natural. He tried Cinema and a couple of others but Natural turned out best as a starting point.

Screen: Stewart ST130

Calibration: VideoEQ/Chromapure

Color Mode: Natural

Contrast 1
Brightness 0
Color -9
Tint -2
Sharpness 0
Color Space Standard
Lens Aperature 0

Gain Red 0
Gain Green 0
Gain Blue -16
Offset Red -3
Offset Green -2
Offset Blue 0

If anyone would like the full calibration report in .pdf format, pm me with your email address.
post #3223 of 9662
Thread Starter 
I have made several new updates in the first page included bug reports and new post-calibration settings.
post #3224 of 9662
Does this projector do the squeeze for an anamorphic lens? I didn't think it did.

S A M 33
post #3225 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by S A M 33 View Post

Does this projector do the squeeze for an anamorphic lens? I didn't think it did.

S A M 33

Yes, it will also Horizontally SQUEEZE (Anamorphic Mode B) for the opposite effect of horizontal expansion of a typical AR lens (1.3x). It will also vertically stretch (Anamorphic mode A) which is the more commonly used feature.

So this is the cool thing, I can actually keep the my HE-AR Lens on all the time, and simply switch to Anamorphic Mode B when watching 16:9 and it will squeeze back the 1.3 horizontally expanded image by the lens. A pretty cool feature to have for someone like me with a manual AR lens transport, but even then I am not that lazy, I would rather get up and move the lens out of the way, even though my Panamorph lens retains almost all of the native brightness and sharpness.
post #3226 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

From what I have heard JVC, like you said, is just now getting through the October orders. Expect to wait possibly another month or little longer. But hopefully by late February all ordered through January are fulfilled.

Not awful, but significantly worse then what I was led to believe when I ordered.

I guess a local dealer wouldn't have any better luck?
post #3227 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingDeezie View Post

Not awful, but significantly worse then what I was led to believe when I ordered.

I guess a local dealer wouldn't have any better luck?

It really is kind of a crap shoot with local dealers too, you may get lucky like I did, or you may not. The key here is to have gotten on the Super Early preorder list back during CEDIA week, I think everyone that ordered in September has gotten theirs by now. Now to the second batch, which also means less bugs and updated FW hopefully.
post #3228 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Yes, it will also Horizontally SQUEEZE (Anamorphic Mode B) for the opposite effect of horizontal expansion of a typical AR lens (1.3x). It will also vertically stretch (Anamorphic mode A) which is the more commonly used feature.

So this is the cool thing, I can actually keep the my HE-AR Lens on all the time, and simply switch to Anamorphic Mode B when watching 16:9 and it will squeeze back the 1.3 horizontally expanded image by the lens. A pretty cool feature to have for someone like me with a manual AR lens transport, but even then I am not that lazy, I would rather get up and move the lens out of the way, even though my Panamorph lens retains almost all of the native brightness and sharpness.

Oh, bonus! So to be clear, (since I don't have an anamorphic lens , but have been thinking about it), using one would allow me more brightness since I wouldn't have to zoom up the image to fill my screen? You also gain perceived resolution this way, right?

My 3 x 4 is about 6 x 8 feet, 9 x 16 about 6 x 10.5 with the lens at the same zoom ratio. To get full scope I zoom up to the full 12 foot width now. Obviously that loses some brightness.

Do I understand this correctly?

S A M 33
post #3229 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

It's not so much room temperature, we're mostly talking about the 20 min warm up period in order to display 3D with minimal or no ghosting. For 2D the picture looks good right off the bad, but it does appear to look slightly sharper and more focused after a 15-20 min period.

So you can watch 2D content right away, but for 3D let the lamp warm up for at least 15 mins in High Lamp mode, or 20-25 mins in normal lamo mode before you play any 3D. You have to do this every time the PJ's been off for more than an hour or two

Quote:
Originally Posted by zbroke View Post

Man that cracked me up big time! Thanks for the laugh!

Gottcha
post #3230 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

It really is kind of a crap shoot with local dealers too, you may get lucky like I did, or you may not. The key here is to have gotten on the Super Early preorder list back during CEDIA week, I think everyone that ordered in September has gotten theirs by now. Now to the second batch, which also means less bugs and updated FW hopefully.

Oh well, I guess I'll have to play the waiting game for a bit and see.

I had an awful experiance ordering from a local dealer when I ordered my Epson Home Cinema 1080 a few years back. It took them well over two months to get it to me, and it was basically missed date after missed date.

For this reason I am weary of going to any local dealer around here; but if I can get it in two weeks as opposed to 4+ weeks it might be worth it.

I talked on the phone to a local dealer who hadn't ever ordered an X3 as of yet; so that wasn't comforting.
post #3231 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingDeezie View Post

I keep reading all of these reviews on this projector, and its making me hungry to get mine.

Has anyone heard from AVS regarding the status of these projectors? I am way down on the list having ordered in late December; have we even begun nearing the bottom of the list yet?

Last week it seemed that we had only made it to early October.

I just my call this past tuesday, the 11th and I officially pre-ordered mine on the 8th of Oct. This was the last "official" pre-order day so I would suspect a bunch of orders around this date.
post #3232 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by nightfly85 View Post

I just my call this past tuesday, the 11th and I officially pre-ordered mine on the 8th of Oct. This was the last "official" pre-order day so I would suspect a bunch of orders around this date.

Cool; thanks for the update. At least they are making some progress. Hopefully after that specific date in October things move quicker.
post #3233 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Todd,
You could not have said it any better regarding the state of 3D today with the JVCs. It's near perfect, but it can only get better from here. More lumens, less cross talk, cheaper and lighter 3D glasses, CMD enabled for 3D...etc. But for a first year first gen 3D projectors, JVC really batted one out of the park IMHO.

Regarding your audio LFE experiences, I did watch Scott Pilgrim, first of all...what an AWESOME movie, for a gamer and musician like me, this movie HAD IT ALL, not to mention the main chick was this Amazingly hot looking nerdy chick with the blue and pink hair, she is not necessarily drop dead gorgeous, but I found her character and looks very alluring!

But as far as sound, I agree, the surround sound was TOP NOTCH! My bass shakers were constantly rumbling, and the overall sound was definitely what I would consider reference level, althought I am sure it would sound way better in your theater, than mine. I still have not seen the latest dud from Shaymalan, and I heard it was a dud! And the 3D conversion was supposedly awful which is why I have ignored this movie all together. So do you think its still worth watching just to experience the audio?

I know exactly what you are talking about with the chick in Scott Pilgrim........something very alluring like you say..........I felt the same way. I even liked her colored hair which usually is a turn off for me..........something about her I agree about the movie as well...........I will be adding this to my collection (I had a rental last night) since I thought the movie was surprisingly good...........loved all the retro type game sounds and just the sound mix in general really captured the tone/feel of the film.

Air Bender is a big time bomb and if there was ever a reason for Redbox, this is it Having said that, it is certainly worth a rent just for the audio IMO. The LFE in particular is great as is the rest of the sound, but that last scene that I mentioned is truly one of the "epic" LFE moments up there with the best IMHO. I had remotes falling off the couch, house shaking, etc.......When I went upstairs, my "ex" was up there hanging out and she asked "WTF just happened down there??......the whole house was vibrating!".........so in summary, even as big of a bomb as this was (and it really was), IMO it is still worth a watch just for the audio.........one of the better tracks (esp in the low end) of 2010 IMHO, and has the single greatest LFE moment of any 2010 track that I have listened to. Just my opinion though and I am sure some would disagree, but check it out when you are caught up with your other films.
post #3234 of 9662
D'oh!!! It just occurred to me why my Rube Goldberg toaster experiment didn't and never could work for 1080p 3D clips like Avatar. 3D on the Samsung plasmas syncs at 120hz, the JVC projectors at 96hz. No way the Samsung-synchronized glasses could ever lock up properly with the image being displayed on the JVC. It also explains why 3D worked with the 720p clips, which always sync at 120hz. Simple. All I would have had to do was use the reverse function in the JVC menu to see 720p 3D without having to turn the glasses upside down. I imagine the timing might have been off by a little even with 720p, but it was actually not too bad. I'm not going there again, though. It probably took an hour or more to set up, and I had to remain very still to get the angles to work.
post #3235 of 9662
BTW, I suspect I'll be able to use low lamp mode for 3D - although almost certainly not for the life of the lamp. I think the HP gives me the boost I need to do that right now. My "tiny" 110" screen has that advantage over the larger size I'd prefer (if space permitted).
post #3236 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

It's not so much room temperature, we're mostly talking about the 20 min warm up period in order to display 3D with minimal or no ghosting. For 2D the picture looks good right off the bad, but it does appear to look slightly sharper and more focused after a 15-20 min period.

So you can watch 2D content right away, but for 3D let the lamp warm up for at least 15 mins in High Lamp mode, or 20-25 mins in normal lamo mode before you play any 3D. You have to do this every time the PJ's been off for more than an hour or two

I think he's referring to the projector coming off a FedEx truck (or even worse, left on his porch) in 15 degree weather and then being plugged in immediately and brought up to hot operating temperature. This is analogous to walking into a hot room from being out in the cold and having your glasses fog up. With the projector, you want to 'warm' it up gradually this first time to avoid damage to the internals from condensation. I would recommend waiting ~2 hrs with the box at room temp b4 switching it on (if indeed it's coming to you pretty frozen).
post #3237 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenjabil View Post
I think he's referring to the projector coming off a FedEx truck (or even worse, left on his porch) in 15 degree weather and then being plugged in immediately and brought up to hot operating temperature. This is analogous to walking into a hot room from being out in the cold and having your glasses fog up. With the projector, you want to 'warm' it up gradually this first time to avoid damage to the internals from condensation. I would recommend waiting ~2 hrs with the box at room temp b4 switching it on (if indeed it's coming to you pretty frozen).
Oh sure, if that is what he meant more than likely. Yep at least 2 hours to catch up to room temp, especially with the cold weather the entire country is having. Luckily it started warming up for us in Denver, around the 50's in January! Nice!! It only went down to -15 last week.
post #3238 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by S A M 33 View Post
Oh, bonus! So to be clear, (since I don't have an anamorphic lens , but have been thinking about it), using one would allow me more brightness since I wouldn't have to zoom up the image to fill my screen? You also gain perceived resolution this way, right?

My 3 x 4 is about 6 x 8 feet, 9 x 16 about 6 x 10.5 with the lens at the same zoom ratio. To get full scope I zoom up to the full 12 foot width now. Obviously that loses some brightness.

Do I understand this correctly?

S A M 33
you definitely lose some brightness with both methods (zooming and AR lens), not sure which one leads more brightness, leaning towards the AR lens method since I hardly notice any brightness with my 5-element Panamporph.

As far as resolution, to get full advantage of every pixel available out of your RS40 in 2.35:1 scope movies, the better option is to use the AR lens, since the PJ will V-stretch and crop out the black bars allowing all the pixels to be used on the vertically stretched image, rather than waste pixels on black bars. So it's real resolution pixels, not perceived.

This does NOT mean you are not getting a razor sharp 1920x1080 when you zoom, because you are, you're just wasting 30% of your pixels on dead black space.
post #3239 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenjabil View Post
I think he's referring to the projector coming off a FedEx truck (or even worse, left on his porch) in 15 degree weather and then being plugged in immediately and brought up to hot operating temperature. This is analogous to walking into a hot room from being out in the cold and having your glasses fog up. With the projector, you want to 'warm' it up gradually this first time to avoid damage to the internals from condensation. I would recommend waiting ~2 hrs with the box at room temp b4 switching it on (if indeed it's coming to you pretty frozen).
Hmmm, this should be the opposite, no?

Warm air can hold more water than cold air. If you bring a cold object into a warm room it cools down the air around it making the air over-saturated with water, which leads to condensation on the object.

The reason why your glasses fog up is because they're colder than the room. So a cold projector in a warm room would get water precipitation whereas a warm one wouldn't.

Following this logic is should be better to turn on the projector ASAP and let the lamp warm it up. As soon as the projector is as warm or warmer than the room no more water can condensate on it. If it gets warmer than the room it will dry the water that's already on it.

Ideally you should try to warm it up as fast as possible to avoid condensation - or let it warm in a room with very dry air - or keep it sealed in an airtight box so no moist air can enter the projector while it's still colder than the room. Unpacking the cold projector and let it sit at room temperature would be the worst option.
post #3240 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post
you definitely lose some brightness with both methods (zooming and AR lens), not sure which one leads more brightness, leaning towards the AR lens method since I hardly notice any brightness with my 5-element Panamporph.

As far as resolution, to get full advantage of every pixel available out of your RS40 in 2.35:1 scope movies, the better option is to use the AR lens, since the PJ will V-stretch and crop out the black bars allowing all the pixels to be used on the vertically stretched image, rather than waste pixels on black bars. So it's real resolution pixels, not perceived.

This does NOT mean you are not getting a razor sharp 1920x1080 when you zoom, because you are, you're just wasting 30% of your pixels on dead black space.
So it's more about actual resolution than brightness, that makes perfect sense.

For now I'll just see how it all works when I get it, my order went in today.
It's nice to have the option of the anamorphic lens if I want to invest the bucks some day.

If I crave more brightness, I'll probably paint a higher gain screen at first and see how that goes. Lots cheaper!

Thanks as always.

S A M 33
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