Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 3

Those shots are pretty revealing. Thanks!

I know it is hard, but would it be possible to take a picture of a single pixel cross-hatch pattern like from the AVS calibration disk? It is hard to do, but can you try to focus in on the pixels themselves so that we can see what the pixel structure looks like? We can't see pixels in your shots. Convergence looks like it is off maybe .5 pixel horizontally and vertical looks very little? Not bad. Also, maybe even more revealing would be to take a clos up picture of the pixels in the alternating on/off single pixels that form a kind of checkerboard? It is also on the AVS disk.

Is the "Natural" setting supposed to be the REC709ish setting? It looks oversaturated to me but maybe not too bad.

Thanks again.

Noise has nothing to do with blacks. You have to check it with 10 or 20 grayscales and pale colors. Also in 3D (just activate side by side in 2D testpatterns).

Regards,
Ekkehart

Great info! Thanks Chris.

For what its worth, I used high altitude mode on my RS1 for the first ~500 hours and then switched it off for the remainder of my ownership (sold it at 1800 hours) and I never had a problem with it off.

Sam, great work. Sorry I am not much help at the moment.

Where can we DL the AVS test pattern disc that you guys are talking about on here? I only have CD-Rs right at the moment which I assume wont work as far as burning to disc?

Is this first pattern a single pixel pattern?

FYI the 'Blue Rain" is a known problem with the Denon 4311 which I believe you have.

Congrats on your PJ and thanks for your impressions.

I would be interested to hear if you notice the convergence change slightly from when you first switch it on to about 10-15 minutes later. I notice my X7 shifts and I don't remember that happening previously with other JVCs. Fortunately it shifts in a way that ends up with a better set-up in the end although my convergence is definitely not as good as within 0.5 over the whole image. Centre and most of the screen is near perfect after warm-up, but I see deviations as big as 0.8/0.9 in one corner. No apparent side effects from this though in terms of perceived sharpness etc.

We often talk about a colour being out, but actually its much more complicated than that. If green is correct, and blue shifts one way half a pixel and red shifts the other way half a pixel, is that a 1 pixel misconvergence or a half?! With my X7 only one colour ever really deviates from the other two.

Single pixel. Its the one that a screenshot has been posted where you see the red blue and green separately in a grid so you can see the continuity of the line as it changes colour. This is actually the best way to see misconvergence but it requires more effort to interprete it. The misconvergence will show bigger on this screen than a single pixel grid because you get very slight bloom from a white grid that masks some of the true error.

Thanks Jon. What exactly do you mean by the statement I quoted? I did check convergence on my RS1 with a test disc I had at the time that I may or may not have (cant find it at the moment) and will probably just use the internal pattern on the 40 to do so but want to make sure I am evaluating things right.

Because you have to look more closely with your nose to the screen to see the divergence. With a white grid your eyes just pick straight up on the red blue or green fringing away from the white grid. That takes 1 second. Looking at the convergence test grid just takes a few seconds longer but then you can actually see what each colour is doing.

Thanks for all your efforts, Sam. They're really appreciated. Good luck staying awake today.

You can download the AVS Disk following the instructions here.

This will also have the 10 and 20 ire patterns on it to test for noise.

The color fringing in ANY mode is a real deal breaker for some people i'm sure, but this "motion drive" is a frame interpolation, motion smoother type feature, right?

You never mentioned if there was any color fringing when motion drive was off completely. And, when it's off, does the projector do good "on it's own"? I usually never rely on motion tricks or processing to try and make an image look better. I have an epson 6500 and all processing is turned off, and it looks and does great.

Does LCOS tech "need" processing to look better?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1289514

you'll have to look in the official thread to see if there is a fix for it yet:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1274153

I HIGHLY recommend following Lawguy's advice and downloading the AVS HD 709 calibration disc. It is very easy to do and it is free. You burn it to a DVD disc (even though you play it back in your blu-ray player) so you only need DVD media and a DVD burner to make the disc (not a blu-ray disc non blu-ray media required).

As he pointed out, you can get it here with full instructions: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496 . Having this is not only important for evaluating your unit now but for keeping a watchful eye on it in the future.

To answer your question about which patterns - once you have the disc go into the section on HCFR patterns and choose Full Field patterns. For the all white test, select the 100% pattern. This will fill your screen edge to edge which bright white. For the black pattern (to check for bright corners), use the 0% pattern from the same area of the disc. This will display complete black edge to edge. For these tests do NOT adjust your brightness or contrast.


It is not the only way, but it is by far the best way. The patterns you've used so far are "ok", but the one on the AVS HD 709 disc is by far better (more revealing of any issues).


Yes, great to hear. Although its been such a prevalent problem since the RS1 that I'll want to see this one first-hand before getting too excited about it. Thanks.

On the contrary! Give yourself some credit, you are doing a great job and I think I speak for everyone when I say how much we appreciate all your great feedback!

I'm not so sure then you are comparing apples to apples as much. The reason is that if your RS20 was never calibrated and you had hundreds or more hours on it (I think you said over 1000) then it most certainly has drifted far, and likely had quite a bit of gamma drift as well (resulting in a more washed out looking picture than you may have realized).

So in actuality you may be comparing (from memory) an uncalibrated, drifted RS20 to an out of the box, well calibrated factory unit. Not a fair fight. The insights and comparisons of course are still applicable and useful, but we should keep this in mind as well.

I second this request. As I mentioned originally, the important thing to focus on besides the grid lines themselves, is the single pixel that appears in each grid (only on the AVS HD 709 pattern).

If convergence is very good this single pixels found in each grid box will look like a single white pixel. If it is bad, it will look like a small cluster consisting of a red, blue and green pixel. If it is somewhere between good and bad two colors will be essentially on top of each other (to form the pixel) with the other fringing out of the side.

Please take some screen shots up close (about 1.5 feet away) of the grid in various places and some of the single pixels inside the grid boxes, and try to focus on the pixels. I know you say you only have a basic point and shoot camera but that is totally fine and suitable for the job.

Also please take a screen shot of your 0% and 100% patterns (which I mentioned in one the post above). For these shots take them from a distance which is far enough back to capture the whole screen in the photo, but no farther back than that.

Thanks!

LOL! If I had one of my own I'd send it to you after reading that. Someone get this poor guy an emitter, immediately!

Thanks a million!! That's exactly what I needed (wanted_) to hear!