Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 209

Some more pics

Both the RS40 and the RS50/60 have settings that provide a wide gumut (wider than the HD video standard - Rec. 709). Having an optional setting for a wide gamut in itself does no harm as long as there is also a setting, or the CMS controls for calibration, that provides for a correct gamut. I find it odd that some manufacturers want to mislead consumers into believing that having a extra wide gamut is a good thing. I cannot say if the RS40's setting for a wide color space provides similar results to the wide color space setting on the RS50/60, but it really makes no different for most home theater owners since they would not want to use that mode. Rather, for home theater use they would want to use a mode with the standard gamut (i.e., based on Rec. 709) without over saturated colors. The RS40 does offer presets with the color points close to Rec. 709 with a little error in terms of hue and saturation (the saturation errora are fairly small). Check out THIS POST for the results of my RS40 testing. The RS40/60 have a semi-functional CMS where it should be possible to adjust the color points to more precisely match the Rec. 709 values.

25 feet seems to be fairly standard for "high speed" HDMI cables. However, I believe Blue Jeans Cable has longer ones that they have tested at high speed. I have not ordered from them, but from what I've seen they get very good reviews on here.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/

Go here:

http://www.compatiblecable.com

Ask to speak to Bill (510-928-1974) -direct line-

Low Gauge / Heavily Shielded HDMI-v1.4 Cables @ $1.00 ft. (...you'll not find a "to spec" 1.4'er at that price anywhere else...)

Tell him you got the referral off AVS.

Product ships from CA & AL so seldom does it take more than 3 days Ground to any location

Take this discussion to his main thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1329706

Observation comments:

1. Your PJ air intake will likely suck greasy air from the kitchen. Caution here, especially if tempted to make popcorn during PJ on time. The last thing this PJ needs is to be slimed internally by butter and oils. In other words, I personally wouldn't run my PJ within 30ft of my wife's cooking I have in fact run over and shut off the PJ when she smoked the place up with a grease plume :O Another reason why I'm moving the PJ to a dedicated media room.

Perhaps an improved location in your setup would be on a wall shelf immediately above the Avatar sketch.

2. The Despicable screen captures seem to have muted colors and lack clarity. Maybe you already cooked dinner? See #1 above. LOL.

Copied from HP

I saw this adjustable mount. I want to use it for jvc RS40 projector.

http://www.thefinalclick.com/Chief-K...e_p_88994.html

It is adjustable for 3-5 foot. Since my ceiling is 9 feet high and my eyes at 4 feet high, I will set at 5 feet. Occasionally, I will move it up.

Do you think it is difficult to move? I guess I need to change lense shift and zoom every time I move. Any comments?

Is anybody using this mount?

I was under the impression that the RMAU will not work with the RS40. However, the adjustable thing is fine to use with the RS40. You can buy seperately.

I do not know what is RMAU. I need to research before buying to find what will work.

AMC has terrible HD signal quality. Broadcasts of The Killing are loaded with all sorts of weird and ugly artifacts. Other stations look fine.

Sorry I thought you knew. The RMAU is chief universal mount depicted in the link you shown. Will not work.

If you are going to ceiling mount, you will need either the RPA mount, or the RPMA Elite mount. The RPMA elite mount has q lock security with key lock. Then you also will need the SLM281 or the SLB281 plates from chief.

The SLM281 is for the RPA mount. And the SLB281 is for the RPMA Elite mount.

Then as you mentioned, you will need the ajustable column from chief. The link you posted, is the all in one package you should not get since it comes complete with the RPAU which will not work with the JVC RS40.

EDIT: here is the link which talks about ceiling mounts / plates for the RS40/50/60 JVC series projectors. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283884

You can break that kit down into three main parts. The ceiling plate (CMS115) that attaches to the ceiling, the adjustable column (CMS0305), and the plate/mount on the bottom that attaches to the projector (RPAU).

What monstosity12 is saying is that the particular "all in one" kit that you linked to includes a projector mount (RPAU) that is not compatible with the RS40. The bottom piece you need for an RS40 is either a RPA281 or RPMA281 (includes a custom plate for this projector).

The Chief parts are interchangeable though, so you should be able to go to their site (or call AVS) and piece together the same kit you linked to, but with the correct RPA281/RPMA281 plate for the RS40 projector.

Just my 2 cents:

At the minimum drop of 3ft, your PJ bottom will be at around 5ft from the floor which for most people is too low to be considered out of the way.

Also, considering the size and heft (ie: heavy) of the RS40, and managing the pin hole adjustments on the Chief extension without dropping the entire thing if the bottom extension piece comes off - maybe not really convenient or easy or sane. Sadly, projector lifts (drop from ceiling) which might be perfect for you are > $1k. Then, the entire Chief package is near half that.

Unless you need locking securty application, the RPA 281 is the only choice you'll want to make. And I'll PM you with a better Drop concept soon.

6:00 pm......sheesh, I thought I edited this and posted. never trust a Smartphone!

Using the Chief Drop Pole is a wasted extravagance that actually looks awfully ugly. With the Threaded opening of the CMS115 ($20.00) and using the RMA 281 ($149.00 avg.) you can cut Schedule 40 1.5" PVC Tubing to your exact length needed, glue on Threaded Male Couplings on each end, and make a perfectly rigid Drop that can accommodate the passage of both Electrical and HDMI cordage down the inside...out of sight. And you can do that for all of $10.00. (..oh yeah...you can paint that Tube as well...)

So all told, a total cost of $180.00....give or take tax, and you'll have a far more cosmetic Drop that can be made to "exactly" the drop length you need...and if you want to change it (shorter) if takes a quick cut, a $1.00 coupling, and you good to go.

Hey...I'm a Chief fan of the RPA series. The RPA-U? Totally bogus choice as far as a PJ like the JVC (I have just done two X3s in the exact manner described above, BTW...) The new adjustable Arm channels are horrible things, and they can NEVER be made to be so tight as to prevent the PJ...ANY PJ, from wobbling if touched. That's pretty lousy stuff if one is paying $150.00 plus for a Mount solution.

Chief does sell the 281 PJ Specific Plates separately, but at $100.00, that's a bit insane if a RPA 281 comes complete with both the Mount assembly and the PJ Plate for $150.00.

The older RPU (Universal) Mount can also work, but it too costs $150.00 so it's not really an issue to even consider unless you have one already...and even then, I can tell you that some spacing is required to lift the rear reaching Right Channel Leg over the Bottom Filtered Ventilation Intake...plus you'd need the 5mm screws.

Also BTW, the depth of the Mounting Holes...as in how deep the Threaded inserts are, requires you use at least 30mm long screws.

Sukamar, you can research until this time next year and you won't find a better solution than what I've outlined above. More expensive...certainly. But no better if even "as good".

Peerless? Expect to spend even more. Monoprice? Pug Ugly....flimsy, and certainly both not in keeping with the investment made for a PJ like the JVC, nor effective and dependable enough to warrant risking a $4K PJ that weighs over 33 lbs in an inverted position.

I go for ceiling mount for reason that I can move it higher if needed. If adjustable rod is not strong, there is no gain that I achieve with this. Anyway, my projector is at the end of 21 feet long room. I may think to mount projector on the wall in future. I did not even receive my HP screen yet. I might need to test it.

I am investigating on mount as last factor to decide before installer comes on next Tuesday. I will postpone it for future date. Appreciate taking time to explain. It is good to know for the future.

Hi,

I had hoped to be able to sit on the fence for a while longer while JVC sorted out what they were going to do regarding the missing lumens issues on these new 3D projectors, but my existing projector broke and its absence forced my hand.

So I just received my RS40. The image is very nice, nicer than my old InFocus SP7205, but I was hoping for a bit more in the out-of-box lumens department.

With 3 hours on the lamp the 9-point ANSI lumens measured 748. The peak lumens at screen center was 817. I used an inexpensive the Mastech Digital Illuminance/Light Meter that Ron Jones had suggested.

My projector is at mid-throw, 16' throw on a 120" diagonal screen.

Here are my basic settings:

Picture mode: Natural
Color Temp: 6500K
Color Space: Standard
Gamma: Normal
Lens Aperture: 0
Lamp: High
HDMI Input: Enhanced
Contrast: 13
Brightness: 6
Screen Adjust: A

Larry

Hi Larry,

With 3 hrs on the lamp why are you using high lamp mode?

Are you just measuring peek light output from your rs40?

I have called JVC support and will be sending in my lamp for evaluation.
Support said they would overnight me a new bulb if tests show I have a faulty bulb.

Hi,

I am merely reporting the maximum useable out-of-the-box lumens for comparison purposes for others concerned about lumen issues.

With only 3 hours of usage I am of course continuing to experiment with settings, but right now I am using normal (low) lamp mode and a lens aperature of -6 for normal viewing.

As I described in my posting I measured an ANSI 9-point average of 748 lumens, with a peak screen center of 817 lumens.

Larry

Not to take away from AVS, but if anyone is interested in a new X3, pm me and I will send you the name of dealer that has one in stock.

Thanks Larry... I just order a lux meter and will add my readings as well.

In general what is ~baseline for a good nice vibrant bright image?

Hi,

I think this is a matter of what you've become accustomed to as well as personal taste. Since my previous projector was moderately bright for me this ANSI lumen reading of mid 700s is a place to start, but it is very likely that this level will quickly decrease with lamp aging.

Larry

Depends on your screen gain and size.

Based on the sucky lamp lamp / lumen output of these models, you should seriously consider shortening your throw to no more than half the zoom range.

I have been running my RS40 in a test setup for 3 months at 21.5 ft throw @ 120" diag 16:9 onto a wall. Initially the picture was great for both 2D and 3D, but at 150 hours we are already resorting to High Lamp Mode for 50% of 2D content. Hence, we are in construction of another media room with better light control and will use a short throw setup @ 110" diag. I'm expecting a near 25-30% lumen gain just by moving to near minimum throw. CR may be less, but that is irrelevant if you can't see the picture due to excessive darkness. That plus a slightly smaller screen size and a new 1.3 gain screen (another 30% brighter = 60% total gain) will hopefully be sufficient to get past 1000 hours on a bulb (egad).

Hi,

This posting may be of interest.

Read it and yes it was (other than the redundant use of "minimum throw distance") right on +/- whatever skew factor his meter has. I'm "expecting" near 30% becaues that's what Mark Halfich suggested I might get. lol.

My screen arrives tomorrow and I anticipate hanging it temporarily in our current room, shortening the throw distance and living with that for awhile until our new room is completed. Going with a short-throw also required getting a screen that doesn't hotspot much if at all.

Hopefully the lamp fade off will lessen its pace soon.

Thanks. That makes a lot of sense. I'm glad it's not caused by my equipment.

Just got my replacement from having a bad lens shift, and this new unit seems to have pretty bad convergence. Should I send this one back as well?

From top to bottom its all about the same. It's from left to right that the problem is. On the left side of the screen, red is too far to the right of green by about 1/4 pixel I would say, almost not noticable. On the right side, however, it looks about 1.5 pixels too far the other direction (to the left). Please see the pictures and let me know if this is way off. No playing with lens shift and zoom made any difference.

As an example, its VERY visible from my seating position 12 feet away on on the AVS 709 disc main menu, as well as every time I bring up my Oppo BDP-93's display that shows how much time is left, etc.

On real world film-based material, its really only noticeable about 5% of the time if there's fine detail in the right 1/4 of the screen. However, I fear this 5% will constantly drive me nuts over the life of the projector, and I plan to keep it at least 5 years.

Should I ask for yet another RMA?

If you see convergence issues in the picture then it's a no brainer: send it back. What does mis-convergence look like while watching a movie?

Looks horrible as is....Convergence may get better after 30min-1hr warm up. I would re-check after an hour use pixel shift:down 1 click in blue, and go right 1-2 clicks in red.

Have you used the pixel adjust feature in the menu?

Mike