Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 4

Originally Posted by lovingdvd

I HIGHLY recommend following Lawguy's advice and downloading the AVS HD 709 calibration disc. It is very easy to do and it is free. You burn it to a DVD disc (even though you play it back in your blu-ray player) so you only need DVD media and a DVD burner to make the disc (not a blu-ray disc non blu-ray media required).

As he pointed out, you can get it here with full instructions: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496 . Having this is not only important for evaluating your unit now but for keeping a watchful eye on it in the future.

To answer your question about which patterns - once you have the disc go into the section on HCFR patterns and choose Full Field patterns. For the all white test, select the 100% pattern. This will fill your screen edge to edge which bright white. For the black pattern (to check for bright corners), use the 0% pattern from the same area of the disc. This will display complete black edge to edge. For these tests do NOT adjust your brightness or contrast.



It is not the only way, but it is by far the best way. The patterns you've used so far are "ok", but the one on the AVS HD 709 disc is by far better (more revealing of any issues).



Yes, great to hear. Although its been such a prevalent problem since the RS1 that I'll want to see this one first-hand before getting too excited about it. Thanks.

Originally Posted by lovingdvd

I second this request. As I mentioned originally, the important thing to focus on besides the grid lines themselves, is the single pixel that appears in each grid (only on the AVS HD 709 pattern).

If convergence is very good this single pixels found in each grid box will look like a single white pixel. If it is bad, it will look like a small cluster consisting of a red, blue and green pixel. If it is somewhere between good and bad two colors will be essentially on top of each other (to form the pixel) with the other fringing out of the side.

Please take some screen shots up close (about 1.5 feet away) of the grid in various places and some of the single pixels inside the grid boxes, and try to focus on the pixels. I know you say you only have a basic point and shoot camera but that is totally fine and suitable for the job.

Also please take a screen shot of your 0% and 100% patterns (which I mentioned in one the post above). For these shots take them from a distance which is far enough back to capture the whole screen in the photo, but no farther back than that.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Geof

At least you weren't in Radio Shack trying to buy Bose gear....

Great job on the reports - you lucky bastard!!

Originally Posted by mark haflich

Sam. Please check out my post 6858 in the long thread where I set out an explanation for the Chief mounts and universal legs etc.

Thanks Mark, but from what online pricing appears to be, anyone can order the newer RPMAU's (like KRichter's with the arms) for less than the price of the SLB-U or SLM-U. The question would be, can you confirm that the existing shipped stock of the RPMA-U (which comes with the 4 legs) will work with the new RS40/50/60?

Originally Posted by JonStatt

It is absolutely repeatable on mine. Switch on from cold, immediately check the convergence, whether you use the red/green/blue grid pattern, or a single pixel white grid, or even the double pixel one is better than nothing. Then wait 15 minutes, and check it again, and see if it has changed. So for example check the centre, and note any pixels that are off...is it the same amount of deviation 15 minutes later. In my case its mainly red that moves.

Perhaps my previous projectors did it too, but I surely never noticed it.

Thanks for comparing and taking the time. I appreciate it.

Originally Posted by Manni01

Hi Damnsam, just to join the others in saying thanks for all your feedback, you're doing a great job!

Originally Posted by mark haflich

Sam. I may be wrong here but those mount legs do not look like Chief legs. More like Peerless. Kevin's pictures look like the Chief universals and they work with just about everything.

Originally Posted by Grampa

Thanks so much Sam for the great report. Your screen shots included only one with "skin tones," and that didn't appear to be very good. Could you comment on skin tones and possibly post some shots of that?

Again, many thanks.

Originally Posted by Zenjabil

Unlike a direct view fixed pixel device (eg. a plasma screen), the RS40, and the last several generations of JVC projectors are 3 chip LCOS machines, and produce colour images by overlapping varying quantities of red, green and blue. However, in order to effectively do so, the individual R, G & B chips/panels need to overlap very well, across the entire screen.

When you look at a single pixel thick white grid, you are looking at the results of each individual panel generating its respective red, green, and blue grid which overlap on your screen to generate a white grid. If convergence is 'off' for one or more of the panels, you'll see this as 'fringing' on the single pixel white line. Practically speaking, its almost unheard of to have perfect alignment of the 3 panels across the entire screen, and you will almost certainly notice the horizontal and vertical white lines in the grid having an edge that is redder, or greener, or bluer than the line itself. The more 'out of whack' this 'fringing' is, the greater your convergence error.

Because of the projector's ability to shift each panel's output horizontally and vertically in single pixel increments, you shouldn't really be off by more than 0.5 pixel - at least in the centre of the projected image. The real problems arise when this divergence of up to 0.5 pixel at the centre, increases to more than that at the periphery.

Blue is tougher to see than red & green , and I wouldn't worry about blue appearing thicker (less focused?) than the other two colours. The real issue is how well all three overlap, and to what extent that changes as you move away from screen centre. If you want to see what really bad convergence looks like, feel free to shift the output of any one of the panels (red is easiest to see) within the service menu converge adjustment function, and you'll get a sense for what really bad (more than a pixel) misconvergence looks like.

Originally Posted by Grampa

Most of the faces had masks. This one had something underneath that said "Mysteries at the Museum."

Originally Posted by mastiff34

Wow man awesome work!! gosh I can't wait for mine to come in!! come on AVS Christmas elfs !!! Daddy needs a new toy !!

Originally Posted by JonStatt

Gary from JVC UK confirmed to me that it is normal for the convergence to shift a bit based on temperature and that even having it upside down (which I do) can change its behaviour as well.

Before anyone asks, I am using a Unicol (UK) mount which is a custom mount with a special plate. They designed this mount before the projector was out and even got the cut-outs for the intake vents etc correct.

The trouble was the mount weighed several kilos itself making lifting the new heavier projector + mount up to the ceiling almost unbearable.