Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 311

Weird note.. I got my JVC 003 flapper in late march (i think). Today I went to turn on the projector and both the lamp and warning lights were blinking. I thought "am i the first to have a prematurely dead 003 flapper?" I wasn't able to shut it off so I pulled power cord, waited a few seconds, replugged it back in and projector turn on fine... it was a scare, that's for sure! Which reminds me.. i need to check how many hours I have on it.

Btw, it's funny how casually we write the word "flapper" on here, isn't it?

Hi,

Thats what I am going through now!

Can anyone give me some advice here, should I just buy a new bulb to replace the old one rather than sending the whole machine back to the service centre? Since it will spend a fortune for me to ship to the service centre here.

Thanks.

Hello Icktemp,

Welcome to AVS Forum.

While the occasion might not offer much to be cheerful about, if you bought the JVC from a Authorized JVC Dealer, JVC will honor the lamp's warranty for the full term of the Projector's warranty.

The issue you both relate is indeed a symptom of lamp failure. No need to send in the unit.

On a note of lessor joy, between the 3- X3s I've installed, they have ran through a total of 8 lamps in just over 18 months. One has had a 4x replacement. Usually, JVC requests a Photo of the lamp's "condition", and you must send the old one back after you receive the replacement or that's the end of their replacement policy for you.

However, it's now been over 4 months since I have received the last pleading call from a distraught End User....so the "supposedly better" lamps seem to be doing their job. For the present. But just the same, none have over 5-600 hours accrued since their last replacement so as far as I'm concerned the Jury is still out, and the Noose is still hanging from the nearest Oak.

Thanks for your kind help.

Even though my X3 is a US official goods with 1 year warranty ( I purchased at 11 Mar 11, bulb life about 300-500, mainly 2D), I worry would JVC ship it to Hong Kong (even at my own delivery cost)?

Can you give me some hints about where I should start getting a replacement from JVC?

Thanks.

Look in the back of manual and there should be a number to call Jvc. Start a case w them, explain what happened, give serial number and they should help you out. Their customer service has been excellent for me who am on my 4th lamp since I bought it in Jan 2011 and can not get the lamp to reach 1k hours without dimming where it is unwatchable. It is my primary tv display in the house. Why watch on 50" if I have a 104" screen. Just got my 4th replacement lamp today and will post lamp numbers in a bit and check for the I famous flapper everyone is talking about.

Good luck,

Ian B

Thanks a lot.

Got the new lamp today and it has the flapper in the front just below the lamp itself.

Here are the numbers on the lamp.

There is a large 0t or OT on one side, below that it says: 524033001

On the opposite side it says: QLL0194-003
PC010632399
HSCR220V2H

THANKS to JVC for their great customer service(L.A.) and prompt resolution to my issue with this lamp. Will do an install this weekend and report back on image. Is it Saturday yet???? lol

Hope my lamp information helps anyone.

Ian B

Yes, you have to manually reset the lamp hours, removing the bulb will not automatically reset it.

I just got my second bulb from JVC. They made me ship the unit back to them to replace the lamp. Now the remote control only works when pointed directly at the unit from 2 feet away. Also, I have had it crash two times when switching from 60p to 24p material; the lights go off in the front and the unit no longer responds (I get a black screen and the projector menus won't come up, even if I use the buttons on the back of the projector). I had to unplug the unit and let it sit over night, then it works fine again.
Also at one point when I was making adjustments in the menu, the menu began responding very slowly then eventually the unit crashed with the same symptoms as above. Has anyone else had these problems? It is hard for me to stomach the idea of spending another $60 to send the unit to Long Beach. It worked fine, except for the crappy lamp, until I sent it in to them.

Call them back ASAP. Whatever "fix" they did broke something else or it's possible that UPS/Fed Ex used your box in a warehouse game of dodge ball.

I had the problem after having the main system board replaced. Mine slowed to the point that when I pressed the Lens Correction(name from my memory. Remote is another room) the grid that displays on the screen played out one line at a time. I also have problem with projector receiving remote commands. I've been trying to figure out exactly when my RS locks up as you describe. The 60p to 24p seems familiar. Sometimes when I would change channels on D* the lockup would happen. I switched the "Native On" to Native Off and this helped. Too bad I have to have the D* receiver do the scaling when the RS has the Reon processor that would do a much better job. If the engineers at JVC would only do the job correctly with the firmware we would not have any of these problems, I suspect!

Considering all the lamp life issues people are experiencing, would you recommend a 'Manufacturer Reconditioned' model off eBay for ~$1800?

Thanks

I should be getting my 3rd lamp next week. I am hoping for the new flaper version.

Have any of you tested the new lamps brightness when new compared to any of the preceding lamps when new?
Is there any sacrifice of lumens with the new design? I am hoping the new design is to just increase, or divert the existing air flow over the lamp, without any decrease in wattage of the lamp itself.
Tony

Last Sunday we went to watch a movie, turned on the X-3 and noticed that the picture was very dim. Having followed this thread I knew that the bulb had failed. I was able to watch most of the movie by switching to hi lamp mode, in the last 3 minutes of the movie there was the loud pop and resulting shutdown of the pj. I emailed JVC and received a generic "We do not have any such issues with our lamp" reply the following day. Next I called and got a nice tech that seemed to know exactly what had happened and shipped us a new lamp at no cost to us. The new lamp has the metal "flapper" so I hope this one lasts longer. At the time of failure I had 1152 hours on the original lamp, when new I had to throttle back the aperture to -14 due to the 2.8 gain hi-power screen, by 850 hours or so I was up to -2. I am looking forward to the great picture this pj puts on the screen once again.

No, contact Jason Turk or Mike Garrett at AV Science and see about a "B" stock from them as it still comes with a 2 year manufacturer warranty and they will certainly take care of you if you develop any issues.

Mike

The manufacturer refurbished he is referring to is sold by JVC on eBay with full two year warranty. It is sold and listed as manufacturer refurbished. What is the difference between that and B-Stock sold by AVS? Serious question, not being facetious, because I have heard different definitions of B-Stock as being a refurb or a blemish new unit. Either way they both come with the two year warranty.

There should be no difference getting from Ebay JVC or AVS. Both get 2 yr factory warranty.

My reason for suggesting buying from AV Science is because the after purchase support is fantastic. As you probably know from reading that the early bulbs had problems. For some people JVC wouldn't replace bulb but if you purchased from AV Science they would definitely help you with any issues. Yes, the manufactured refurbished and B stocks are the same thing and come with 2 year warranty.

Mike

Mike I agree with you about purchasing with AVS, only pointing out facts regarding butong from JVC as opposed to some unauthorized vendor. When I talked to AVS about a week ago they didn't have any b-stock RS40's, only RS45's. Price difference wasn't close to the eBay price for the RS40 so that could be a factor for some people. I would prefer to purchase through AVS when I make my final decision, but that's my choice and might not be someone elses. Once I make my decision between JVC and Epson 5010 I will be buying, just haven't been able to determine if the JVC will be bright enough for me during daytime viewing. I don't really want to watch all sports in a blacked out room, I have dark brown walls but will definitely have some ambient light.

Oh, ok.....gotcha. I didn't realize they were out of the B stock RS40's. You do have a hard decision to make if you do some daytime viewing in a nonblacked out room. You might actually be better off with the Epson 5010 since it is suppose to be brighter. I guess it will depend on what percentage you will be watching during the day. I like a bright image but I also like deep blacks. I bet you will be happy either way you go as each projector has its trade offs but they all 3 are highly rated. For movies I prefer my JVC vs any other projector I have ever had(and I've had about 15-20) but for HD sports, HDTV, and when there is some ambient light in the room I prefer my bright DLP projector. The Epson 5010 sounds like a projector that is a good balance if you aren't always watching in a dark room.

Mike

I've got a question about this 3D warm-up time to minimize ghosting. First of all, I had no idea it needed this. I was extremely disappointed with the amount of ghosting every time I tried it, but it was always right after I turned it on. So here's my question... if I wait 30-45 minutes after I turn on the projector to switch into 3D mode and watch a movie, and I STILL see significant amounts of ghosting, does that mean it's something wrong with the lamp or the projector itself? I only have about 10 hours total on my lamp. Will this improve once I get more hours on my lamp since it's brand new? I'm also using the Xpand glasses. Would this have any effect on the visibility of ghosting versus the official JVC glasses? Would it have anything to do with the emitter being out of sync?

I have about 30 hrs on mine and I have watched 3 3D films (Avatar -zero issues) (Tangled - slight ghosting) and (Kung Fu Panda 2 - very slight ghosting). I did not start the movies until about 30-40 minuets after projector start-up. I use the xpand glasses and I have seen very minimal ghosting and no flicker at all. I am not sure if I am just not that sensitive to it or I just got lucky with the projector. I have noticed that the 2D picture started looking even better after about hour 20 or so.

I have the X103's, too. Have you had a chance to try JVC's 3D glasses to compare ghosting?

I have both the 103's and the JVC's. I certainly don't see much difference. I don't mind the 3-D, but I also don't watch it that much.

Ghosting is worst at initial start-up. It should be reduced after an hour or so of warm-up. However, if a disc is really bad for ghosting, I wouldn't count on it to be completely eliminated. Keep in mind that the content itself does play a part in this. Some discs are more prone to ghosting than others. How to Train Your Dragon is virtually unwatchable on this projector, while other titles may show little to no ghosting.

If anything, ghosting gets worse as the lamp ages. There appears to be a correlation between image brightness and ghosting. The artifact increases as your lamp dims.

Make sure that you use a separate calibration preset for 3D. Open your iris all the way, and turn up the Contrast. I've found that these things help.

Xpand actually makes JVC's glasses too. I have a pair of each. The tint and polarization are different, but visibilty of ghosting is pretty much identical.

Thank you very, very much for the responses! This helped me out a lot.

Hmm, still having a pretty bad ghosting problem. I made sure that the iris was open, the contrast is set to 10 (anything higher degrades picture quality), and the warm-up time was well past the suggested 45 minutes. In fact, I warmed it up before I started watching a movie for an hour, then watch Cars 2 all the way through and the ghosting was very present until the very end. The problem seems to be that it can't handle dark objects against a light background. For example, it's most noticeable on the character's eyes in Cars 2 since they're dark circles against white windshields. Very distracting. And it's not just this movie - it's ANY movie that shows anything dark against a light background, like in Transformers it was most noticeable in city shots where dark buildings were against the sky. Has anybody watched Cars 2 with this projector and noticed the same thing? I'm beginning to wonder if it's something wrong with my projector. Or maybe that the X103's show more ghosting than JVC's official ones (I have two X103's and both show the same amount of ghosting). I haven't been able to try JVC's official ones to compare, but from reviews and other feedback I've read that shouldn't be the case... Anybody have any ideas?

Black objects on a white background cause the worst case 3D crosstalk/ghosting for the JVC projectors. I measured this for my projectorreviews blog some time ago using 3D test patterns I created and burned onto a blu-ray disc. A test pattern with a black bar on a white background produces approx. 20 times as much crosstalk as a test pattern with a black bar on a white background. The cause of this is the LCoS (DILA) micro-display chips used by JVC have a much slower response time to transition a pixel from black to white than from white to black. With blu-ray 3D as the 3D source the projector displays at 96Hz or 48Hz per eye. When the 3D input signal is at 30Hz or 60Hz, such as from Directv or cable TV, the projector diaplays at 120Hz (60Hz per eye) and this higher refresh rate makes matters even worse for 3D crossalk/ghosting because of the DILA's response time limitations. The other factor that can be observed with any LCoS (e.g., Sony SXRD) or LCD (e.g., Epson, Panasonic) 3D projector is the display chip's response time is worse when cold as compared to when heated up. As the lamp ages and dims it also does not heat up the display chips as much, so 3D crosstalk will increase. In fact one vendor recently mentioned the idea of including a heating element to quickly heat up the display chips and keep them hot.

There does seem to be a lot of variation in the levels of 3D crosstalk being reported for the JVC projectors, even those of the same model. In some cases this may simply be how sensitive the viewer is to 3D crosstalk but in some cases the same person has observed the differences between two JVC projectors. So there does appear to be unit-to-unit variation in 3D crosstalk in the JVC projectors. I have the JVC glasses and have not used the Xpand universal glasses, but when set up correct the level of 3D crosstalk should be the same as with the JVC glasses. Are you certain you have set the mode for the Xpand glasses to the correct (optimum) one for the JVC projectors?

You need a better 3d projector. I am in the same boat and have quit watching 3d on my RS45 due to ghosting and flicker. My RS40 (which I had before the 45) was never great with ghosting, but got considerably worse around 300-400 hours. Right now I am leaning toward adding a DLP for 3d, or just bypassing 3d for another year altogether. I cant give up the motorized lens on the JVC as far as a single projector solution, so Epson is out. JVCs are awesome 2d movie machines, but crap at 3d IMO.

Thanks for the detailed response. I'm absolutely certain that the glasses are on the right setting. I wish there was some place that I could buy the JVC glasses from just to see if they improve this problem, but any place I know of has restocking fees. And if the problem is with the projector, it's definitely not good that it'll only get worse over time.