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Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 324

post #9691 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Ian B View Post

Thanks for info Jon. Yes, total of all lamps is over 4k hours. I have several tvs in the house but, love this pj and 106" screen. Other than brightness from lamp, picture and detail great. Number of hours whether spread out in months and year should not be an issue, after all I bought for watching whenever I want. I have an a/c vent above it to keep it cooled.

Ian B

It's actually good to hear from somone that has clocked up that many hours and aside from the bulb, the projector is doing well. Often people refer to bulb versions 001, 002, and 003. But there were actually 4 versions, as early 003 models did not include the special cooling fin/flap. If you were running 003 with flap and only got 1400 hours then that is a bit disappointing, but it would be nice to confirm what bulb you were running. Also, did you ever use high bulb as that will of course greatly reduce expectancy? Also remember that the quoted number of hours, should correspond to the point where the bulb is half the brightness from new. Nobody would want to run their projector at half brightness with a 106" screen unless it was high gain, so the true life is typically a lot less than quoted.
post #9692 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

It's actually good to hear from somone that has clocked up that many hours and aside from the bulb, the projector is doing well. Often people refer to bulb versions 001, 002, and 003. But there were actually 4 versions, as early 003 models did not include the special cooling fin/flap. If you were running 003 with flap and only got 1400 hours then that is a bit disappointing, but it would be nice to confirm what bulb you were running. Also, did you ever use high bulb as that will of course greatly reduce expectancy? Also remember that the quoted number of hours, should correspond to the point where the bulb is half the brightness from new. Nobody would want to run their projector at half brightness with a 106" screen unless it was high gain, so the true life is typically a lot less than quoted.

Ok, I see what you are saying. The 3 003 lamps I have used all had tha flapper. High bulb may have been used 2-4 hours per month for 3d movies if even that much. The gain on the screen is either 1.6 or 1.8 from what I remember. I always keep my iris at 0 if that makes a difference. Still get the wow effect from everyone that comes over. The dimness is most noticeable on shows like The Killing, Law and Order and Hannibal. It could be the way they are shot and not the pj???

Ian B
post #9693 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Ian B View Post

Ok, I see what you are saying. The 3 003 lamps I have used all had tha flapper. High bulb may have been used 2-4 hours per month for 3d movies if even that much. The gain on the screen is either 1.6 or 1.8 from what I remember. I always keep my iris at 0 if that makes a difference. Still get the wow effect from everyone that comes over. The dimness is most noticeable on shows like The Killing, Law and Order and Hannibal. It could be the way they are shot and not the pj???

Ian B

You'd really have to check with a meter. That would be the only way to know how dim it is. Different material can make you paranoid. I had an 02 lamp that was unwatchable at 450 hours. My 003 flapper bulb is now at 400 has has dimmed about 25%, which seems normal and it has been stable that way since 200 hours. Sometimes I'll watch a dim movie, and go take a reading after. So far it has just been the content. If I put on something I know is bright, it looks as it should.
post #9694 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

You'd really have to check with a meter. That would be the only way to know how dim it is. Different material can make you paranoid. I had an 02 lamp that was unwatchable at 450 hours. My 003 flapper bulb is now at 400 has has dimmed about 25%, which seems normal and it has been stable that way since 200 hours. Sometimes I'll watch a dim movie, and go take a reading after. So far it has just been the content. If I put on something I know is bright, it looks as it should.

Yes you are absolutely right. You need a meter and keep a track of the bulb. I suspect that if it is feeling dim, it probably has lost enough that it is getting noticed more often. The bulb would be 50% brightness at 3000 hours assuming you never used high bulb mode. It tends to drop to about 75% within the first 600 hours and then gradually tails off. So at 1500 hours I would expect it to be somewhere between 65-70%. This may just be below what Ian B finds acceptable. Especially I get the impression he is a bit of a brightness junkie if he likes the aperture wide open on a 1.6-1.8 gain screen and its only 105" in size! Nothing wrong with that mind, just a preference smile.gif
post #9695 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Yes you are absolutely right. You need a meter and keep a track of the bulb. I suspect that if it is feeling dim, it probably has lost enough that it is getting noticed more often. The bulb would be 50% brightness at 3000 hours assuming you never used high bulb mode. It tends to drop to about 75% within the first 600 hours and then gradually tails off. So at 1500 hours I would expect it to be somewhere between 65-70%. This may just be below what Ian B finds acceptable. Especially I get the impression he is a bit of a brightness junkie if he likes the aperture wide open on a 1.6-1.8 gain screen and its only 105" in size! Nothing wrong with that mind, just a preference smile.gif

Good information Jon. The aperture has always been like that since day one so I would not know any better. I like the cinema view and not the vivid mode for any tv or pj. What do you recommend I set the aperture at this time or for the next new lamp I get?

Ian B
post #9696 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Ian B View Post

Mike, I have gone through 2 of the 002 lamps which barely got to 500 hours before failing. I am on the 3rd 003 lamp 2 did not make it to 1,000 hours and the last one exploded on me at 900 hours. The current one has lasted the most but dimming to the point 3d is unwatchable. Depending on the show or channel, I have to switch to hi lamp now for regular viewing or it is too dark. I am very pleased with the pj but these lamps are horrible. I never had any lamp issues w my previous JVC RS1. I think I can wait till October and go from there. There are so many good blu rays coming out soon that warrant a good lamp.

Ian B

Yikes, that really is surprising to hear that you have gone through 3-003 lamps with flappers that have all died at around 900-1000 hours. I'm currently over 900 hours on my 003 with flapper lamp and I use it on a 125" diagonal 2.35 1.5 gain screen and have iris on -9 using low lamp. I've recently experimented turning it on high lamp and like the bump in brightness but probably will stay at low lamp until I'm over 1000 hours. Now I'm probably only getting 9 ftL at my current settings but in my darkened theater the brightness is fine.

Are you in a high altitude area or anything else that could be effecting the lamp? I see you mention you have an a/c vent close to cool projector, it isn't too close where after you shut down projector it cools that hot lamp down too fast thus declining its life is it?

Mike
post #9697 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbw23air View Post

Yikes, that really is surprising to hear that you have gone through 3-003 lamps with flappers that have all died at around 900-1000 hours. I'm currently over 900 hours on my 003 with flapper lamp and I use it on a 125" diagonal 2.35 1.5 gain screen and have iris on -9 using low lamp. I've recently experimented turning it on high lamp and like the bump in brightness but probably will stay at low lamp until I'm over 1000 hours. Now I'm probably only getting 9 ftL at my current settings but in my darkened theater the brightness is fine.

Are you in a high altitude area or anything else that could be effecting the lamp? I see you mention you have an a/c vent close to cool projector, it isn't too close where after you shut down projector it cools that hot lamp down too fast thus declining its life is it?

Mike

Mike,

am here in Central Texas. The vent is about 2 feet above the pj and towards the back of the pj. Changed the aperture from 0 to -9 and the difference was minimal. The room is light controlled 100%. I just need to use the light meter to see if I am making much about nothing or the lamp is dimming as expected for the number of hours.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Ian B
post #9698 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Ian B View Post

Mike,

am here in Central Texas. The vent is about 2 feet above the pj and towards the back of the pj. Changed the aperture from 0 to -9 and the difference was minimal. The room is light controlled 100%. I just need to use the light meter to see if I am making much about nothing or the lamp is dimming as expected for the number of hours.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Ian B

Ian,

I just wonder if the vent is too close to projector and the cold air blowing that close causes the lamp to die early. I'm all for keeping room at a cool temperature but the closest vent to my projector location is 10 feet away. I may be completely wrong here but just find it odd you have gone through so many lamps. I can understand it with the 002 lamps as they were crap but you are the first person I have read about with early 003 lamp failures.

Mike
post #9699 of 9972
Thought I would post here an interesting experience I have just had with my RS40. I have 003 lamp w/flapper and about two years ago the main processor board was replaced under warranty after multiple lockups. The projector has been performing well ever since. About a month ago my wife and I went on a trip to the east coast for about two weeks and when we returned we found our stove and microwave clocks blinking with the 12:00 time on the clock. This usually means a power failure had occurred which we verified with a neighbor. When we leave on a trip I usually disconnect all of my electronic gear but this time had not done that. A day after returning I fired up the RS40 and noticed that after an hour or so I saw some blinking of the bulb that went away after about 30 seconds. The next time I fired up the projector it froze on the DILA symbol. I unplugged it, waited 10 seconds, replugged it and fired it up again. Same result. Third time was a charm and it fired up and played like nothing happened. Next day it fired up OK again. But a few days later after turning it on successfully I decided to change some menu settings and the menu responded in slow motion. A key stroke would take about 5 seconds or more to take place. Then it froze and I had to pull the plug again. Subsequently, the next few times on I had to go through the plug/unplug routine until I finally gave up and called the JVC Help Line. I figured I had probably fried the main board when the power came back on and the board had finally given up. I was referred to Mendtronics and given a Case # and a place to bring it in for repair.

So I pulled the projector off the cabinet, brought it out to the LR for boxing and transport to repair. However, for some reason I decided to give it one more try and hooked it up to my Living Room system and fired it up. Voila! It came right up to the blue screen. Left it on for 10 minutes and turned it off. An hour later same result. The next night, same result. Third night, same result. What's the difference you may wonder? If you're still with me that is. My LR system has a Panamax 4300 power thing with a heavy duty power cord between the two boxes whereas in my video room the RS40 was hooked up to a simple power strip hooked up to a wall plug. Basically, I surmise that the RS40 needs good clean power to work to it's best capability. At least when it comes to turning on and powering up. This experience makes me wonder how many of the other problems that have plagued this RS40 model could be the result of a less than strong power source.

Any thoughts would be good.
post #9700 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingzz View Post

My RS40 just started to lock up when I change from DVR to OPPO or back,

Interesting. I have experienced a similar issue. Things are fine with my DVR but I have HDCP issues with the Oppo and JVC. I also have a lumagen in the loop and things seem to improve when I take it out so I'm not sure which is the problem but I never considered the JVC...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB View Post

If you're still with me that is. My LR system has a Panamax 4300 power thing with a heavy duty power cord between the two boxes whereas in my video room the RS40 was hooked up to a simple power strip hooked up to a wall plug. Basically, I surmise that the RS40 needs good clean power to work to it's best capability. At least when it comes to turning on and powering up. This experience makes me wonder how many of the other problems that have plagued this RS40 model could be the result of a less than strong power source.

Any thoughts would be good.

It sounds reasonable but my JVC has never been plugged into anything other than the ceiling outlet and fortunately, I have never had issues like others have experienced with lamps and lockups. Just thought I would throw it in for a data point.
post #9701 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by No Clue View Post

Interesting. I have experienced a similar issue. Things are fine with my DVR but I have HDCP issues with the Oppo and JVC. I also have a lumagen in the loop and things seem to improve when I take it out so I'm not sure which is the problem but I never considered the JVC...
It sounds reasonable but my JVC has never been plugged into anything other than the ceiling outlet and fortunately, I have never had issues like others have experienced with lamps and lockups. Just thought I would throw it in for a data point.

At one time in the video room I had a Denon 602 VP/Switcher in between the D* DVR and a Samsung or PS3 blue ray player. I had constant handshake problems. JVC was plugged into the same power strip. I moved the Denon into the LR and used it with an older 720P SharpVision 12000 MKII. When I moved the JVC back to the LR for testing as described above I had to plug it into the Denon. But now, no HDMI handshake problems. Is it the clean power? Maybe, although I haven't used it long enough and the DVR is a newer Genie model. The handshake problem with the older DVR was often caused by the exceedingly long cycle time when changing channels under "native" mode. Changing to "non-native" helped the handshake problem a lot as I recall. Who knows. I do think though that if I was a RS40 owner and read this particular part of the thread subject I would be considering finding a power thing to put in the chain.
Edited by JackB - 7/26/13 at 7:25am
post #9702 of 9972
Looks like my front IR eye stopped working. I always cut power by switching off my Panamax after using the pj. I have about 500 hours. I'm not surprised since there are other reports of the front IR sensor failing. Just didn't think it would go after only 500 hours of use.

Since I already have a xantech IR block to control my AVR and BD player I'll just run a cable to the "remote" plug on the back of the pj and that should take care of it I guess.
post #9703 of 9972
My front sensor inconsistency is just that. Happens occasionally but not always.
post #9704 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan P. View Post

Looks like my front IR eye stopped working. I always cut power by switching off my Panamax after using the pj. I have about 500 hours. I'm not surprised since there are other reports of the front IR sensor failing. Just didn't think it would go after only 500 hours of use.

Since I already have a xantech IR block to control my AVR and BD player I'll just run a cable to the "remote" plug on the back of the pj and that should take care of it I guess.

I had to send my RS40 to Mendtronix twice for warranty repair for this issue and the second time they replaced the LED & IR PWB and my front IR sensor has worked ever since. So, if you are still under warranty I would send it in. My warranty ended right after I got this repaired.

Mike
post #9705 of 9972
I'm wondering if anyone has detailed information regarding the control board resister that was swapped out on some of these units? More specifically where on the main board the resister is located? I live in New Zealand and it's proving very difficult to find someone with the expertise to service a JVC projector. I know that my machine has had the resister swap out, and I want to present the technician currently working on the projector with as much information as possible. If anybody has any expertise and wouldn't mind sharing some information via a pm, I'd be grateful.
post #9706 of 9972
Is anyone using the "remote control" input on the rear of the pj? I can't get it to work even when I try a short cable. I have a xantech 784-44 connecting block. When I plug my X3 into one of the emitter jacks I get a yellow light on the block. Does the X3 have a high impedance IR input maybe? Perhaps I need an amplified block like the xantech 791-44 instead.

More info in http://www.avsforum.com/t/1484667/jvc-rs40-x3-remote-control-port
Edited by Dan P. - 8/11/13 at 5:20am
post #9707 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post


LMAO..yeah that's funny.

Here's hoping the same! That flap from what I can tell it is a ramp when the lamp is installed(turned on its side). It channels the air into the tunnel, cutting the volume of air by half that can enter the chamber of the lamp. This should increase the force of cool air entering the lamp chamber. This is just my guess or hypothesis.

When my first lamp died after about 500 hours (3 months) I indeed compared it with the new one.
The old one did not have the metal flap and if I remember it right the "channel" was not covered with metal either.

The metal flap as you say increase speed of flow but would in theory decrease total the total flowrate.
If it is mounted on the side (was it - I dont remember) so that the flap falls down the flap also forces the air AWAY from the lamp body and directs the air to the glass body.
This could have a couple of positives:
1. The temp difference between hot lamp and cool air will be lower since the airflow drives away the hot air AROUND the lamp and does not cool the lamp DIRECTLY.
We all know what happens if you cool glass to rapidly....CRACK!
2. If it is mounted on the side it means the hot air rises "above/behind" the lamp. Blowing air directly on the lamp would be cooling the "wrong side" of the lamp making the air bounce out to the sides.
Redirecting the air flow to bounce in a 45 degree angle of the sides would create an air channel that should (in theoiry) draw out the cool air.

So what is version 3? I got my lamp like 2012-04 something, is that version 2 or 3?
It now has 1500 hours and has started to go down in brightness in low lamp mode...switching it up to high for 5 sec and then back to low removes the phenomena, but it seems like the lamp is about to go out.



FIRMWARE UPDATE:
I Have just updated the firmware to 1.3 with a bit of mess. It turned out the I could NOT update correctly with a router in between, regarldess of cable or wireless connection.
Using direct cable connection from PC to PJ + setting gateway in PJ to 0.0.0.0 and removing gateway in the PC solved the problem and firmware update ran like ut should.

TIP:
After the first and second unsuccesful attempt it said
"
Try connecting to "192.168.1.55"...
Connected to projector has succeeded. [HERE IT COMPLAINED ABOUT FIREWALL WHICH I ACCEPTED]
Waiting update Main firmware packet timeout [CAME AFTER MAYBE 30-60 seconds]
Update Main firmware failed"

I tried again
"
Try connecting to "192.168.1.55"...
Connecting to PJ timeout....
Please check PJ in "LAN" mode, and accepted "Cedia" cmd
"

In both cases I could not power on the PJ
So I powered PJ off until lights went out and then inserted power cable and it worked again.

Then I update with direct cable and it all went fine - took about 10-15 minutes I would say for the update to run through.

Regards
Boogie
post #9708 of 9972
So not sure if this has been said but i cant find it. I know quite a few people have had issues with hdmi lock up where the projector becomes unresponsive after switching hdmi inputs. anyone have info for repair, like a work order number or something like that? im under warranty and have a service station down the street, so i figure i should get it fixed sooner than later.
post #9709 of 9972
Howdy.....Mendtronix handles warranty work in the us. They are in Texas and Metro Atlanta. Go to their website and fill out the info for repair. If you use the Atlanta area location, look over the PJ thoroughly when you get it back as, i was told, they have a new guy working on JVC's and he left off the screws that secure the HDMI connectors to the chassis and I had to have that corrected.
post #9710 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by hessel holland View Post

Howdy.....Mendtronix handles warranty work in the us. They are in Texas and Metro Atlanta. Go to their website and fill out the info for repair. If you use the Atlanta area location, look over the PJ thoroughly when you get it back as, i was told, they have a new guy working on JVC's and he left off the screws that secure the HDMI connectors to the chassis and I had to have that corrected.

They are located in Texas, Atlanta and Philly.
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post #9711 of 9972
im in atlanta and used them as well to fix the dead IR problem. it came back well packed no issues very helpful. Im really looking for some info on hdmi lock up now Thanks
post #9712 of 9972
Oh man... I sent in my rs40 projector a year and a half ago for repairs after the main light engine failed on me then the bulb died shortly after that. Now I'm experiencing the hdmi lockup ordeal. What a crappy projector... I'm not looking forward to mailing this thing out again. I only put about 100 hours on it since the light engine failure. What a difference the quality of this projector is from the RS1 I still use. I have at least 7000+ hours on that thing and still going strong. I hope my rs1 can hold me over until a good led/laser projector comes out!
post #9713 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttabean View Post

Oh man... I sent in my rs40 projector a year and a half ago for repairs after the main light engine failed on me then the bulb died shortly after that. Now I'm experiencing the hdmi lockup ordeal. What a crappy projector... I'm not looking forward to mailing this thing out again. I only put about 100 hours on it since the light engine failure. What a difference the quality of this projector is from the RS1 I still use. I have at least 7000+ hours on that thing and still going strong. I hope my rs1 can hold me over until a good led/laser projector comes out!

Try unplugging the projector for a day and see if it resets.
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post #9714 of 9972
Thank Mike, I'm going to give that a try. Right now it turns on and just locks up before showing an image.

Last night I tried for hours attempting to connect via the usb port to update the firmware on it. Of course the driver is only 32bit compatible. I mean common... you think they're going make this easy? I don't have any computers with 32bit windows so I had to install xp mode and my big heavy workstation is the only one with a professional copy of windows 7 on it(needed for xp mode).

The mini usb cable wouldn't reach the desktop and the extension cable was causing it to lose connection every second. So I tried the surface pro last night which OF COURSE MS HAD TO change how virtual pc works on it and windows 8 doesn't support xp mode. Oh the humanity! I finally got it working via virtualbox and a few tweaks BUT i couldn't get the virtual pc to recognize usb devices properly. I did install the usb 2.0 add on. I eventually gave up after 4 hours of frustration lol

Short answer, very frustrating night... I should have listened to my subconscious and just took the projector off the mount haha smile.gif
post #9715 of 9972
Certain HDMI EDID triggers can cause a JVC RS40/RS45 to lockup, it's happened to me once or twice. It doesn't necessarily indicate a problem with the projector, though it can. Just make sure the PJ is actually locked up, sometimes the menu button may not work but it's not always hard locked in the case of an EDID mismatch (sometimes it is). In this case you can tell by switching HDMI ports with the remote, if the PJ responds to a switch command even if it doesn't respond to others, then it's usually not locked up. One time I had a partial lockup to where it took the projector 3 minutes of pushing buttons on the remote to come back online, another time I had a full deadlock where nothing worked.

I replaced my HDMI switch and now this new one so far has been flawless ($80), including going between HTPC EDID and Bluray and Cable. Though I haven't had it long enough to know for sure, also the Darbee in the chain can make it even more likely, as well as how strong the HDMI signal is (how long your cables are and what not).

HTPC usage (especially Windows 7) can bring entirely different problems, because sometimes a PC can misdetect the JVC's max resolution and try to pass 1920x1200 I believe it is, in this case it then becomes impossible to revert the setting back because Windows 7 hard-encodes it (so annoying). I had to reinstall a PC after this issue once, tried troubleshooting for 1-2 hours and googling how to edit EDID signatures in Safe Mode, but eventually I gave up and just re-installed the OS to clear the bad EDID association. What happens in this case is if you try to boot the computer, you will get a blank screen each time Windows loads. In this last case, the first thing is to hook an LCD monitor to the PC or load it in safe mode and try to adjust the driver and resolution, but failing that I just reinstall the OS (there might be an easier way, but sometimes finding the solution takes longer than just re-installing).
Edited by coderguy - 8/16/13 at 8:29am
post #9716 of 9972
Wow! 325 pages - do you guys recommend a used RS40 without warranty? I do not mean to be sarcastic but was interested in this one as a backup.
post #9717 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonbud0 View Post

Wow! 325 pages - do you guys recommend a used RS40 without warranty? I do not mean to be sarcastic but was interested in this one as a backup.

This model had a lot of problems. I would say you would have better luck with a warranty
post #9718 of 9972
Mostly just lamp issues, depends how much you get the RS-40 for.
B-Stocks are a better option if you can find one.
post #9719 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by blee0120 View Post

This model had a lot of problems. I would say you would have better luck with a warranty

Got it. Thanks.

Coder,

For that, the RS45 would be safer.

Thanks gents.
post #9720 of 9972
Does anyone use this projector with something like the AccuScreens Fixed Frame with SoundScreen? I am looking at the gray one (0.8 gain), and I want to know if anyone has experienced issues 3D on the lower gain screen.
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