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Originally Posted by develvjd- 
Well, after a brief "discussion" my wall is fixed and I was able to proceed last night with three coats of Kilz2 white primer.
Well, after a brief "discussion" my wall is fixed and I was able to proceed last night with three coats of Kilz2 white primer.
I could hear that "Foot" stomp down all the way in Byhalia. You Da Man!
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1) The duster coat and coat one didn't provide a perfectly uniformly wetted surface. Coat #3 was close, but there were still some noticable "micro-dimples" in the wet paint. Maybe 95% coverage in terms of area? Do you ever really get a super-uniform smooth coat with 100% wetted coverage? The dried result is nice and flat, but the coat was not porcelain smooth when wet. I guess I was just afraid to slow down below my 2'/sec or get closer than 14" to get perfect 100% wetted coverage in a single coat. What should my final primer coat look like wet?
1) The duster coat and coat one didn't provide a perfectly uniformly wetted surface. Coat #3 was close, but there were still some noticable "micro-dimples" in the wet paint. Maybe 95% coverage in terms of area? Do you ever really get a super-uniform smooth coat with 100% wetted coverage? The dried result is nice and flat, but the coat was not porcelain smooth when wet. I guess I was just afraid to slow down below my 2'/sec or get closer than 14" to get perfect 100% wetted coverage in a single coat. What should my final primer coat look like wet?
In truth, only the last 1-2 coats can really achieve the "entirely wet sheen look" because the previous coats set up the surface to be smooth enough for the paint to settle out uniformly.
But trying to intentionally achieve that "wet look" is more risky than simply letting consistent technique lay down even coats that have no risk of developing texture, runs, or sags.
It's when the coat/s are dry, and when then under careful examination look completely uniform that one determines the quality of the finish.
Here are some last minute pointers:
1. Too fast a speed going across or/and too far a distance from the surface will result in a rougher texture akin to a fine grit sandpaper. Especially the "too far away" part.
2. A critical item is "Overlap". It should be 60% minimum, and 70% cannot hurt. In fact, "Overlap" is more responsible for achieving a consistently smooth, wet look than speed, because when you go back over a previously painted area at the proper speed, and re-coat a percentage of the previous row, your applying just enough additional paint...not the excessive amount that going slower all to often does.
3. The biggest danger is the urge to go back over spots that seem weak in coverage. Don't. If you tried hard to maintain speed, distance, and overlap and there seems to be some areas that look sparser than others, let the screen dry, and if indeed they were "sparse" enough to matter, you'll see them, you can "feather in " some fill, let that dry, then proceed as normal.
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2) Should I need any thinning in the final SF mix outside of the 18-24 oz water in the recipe?
Mixing paint today and I hope to spray SF tonight!
2) Should I need any thinning in the final SF mix outside of the 18-24 oz water in the recipe?
Mixing paint today and I hope to spray SF tonight!
Try the first level (18 oz.) and see if it is thin enough. If not, dump the paint back in, rinse the Sock Filter, then add water in 2 oz increments and re-try.
It's not really all that much effort to go to to achieve a perfect viscosity. Besides, what might seem perfect running through the Sock might not exit the Gun like you want. How well the paint come out...and goes one is always the deciding factor.
Now....go squirt something.....
Velvet borders go on this weekend and I should be able to get some screenies as soon as I get that cabinet loaded up with some electronics.
