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New basement, Epson 8350, and Silver Fire 3.0 - Page 3

post #61 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by develvjd- View Post

Well, after a brief "discussion" my wall is fixed and I was able to proceed last night with three coats of Kilz2 white primer.

I could hear that "Foot" stomp down all the way in Byhalia. You Da Man!

Quote:


1) The duster coat and coat one didn't provide a perfectly uniformly wetted surface. Coat #3 was close, but there were still some noticable "micro-dimples" in the wet paint. Maybe 95% coverage in terms of area? Do you ever really get a super-uniform smooth coat with 100% wetted coverage? The dried result is nice and flat, but the coat was not porcelain smooth when wet. I guess I was just afraid to slow down below my 2'/sec or get closer than 14" to get perfect 100% wetted coverage in a single coat. What should my final primer coat look like wet?

In truth, only the last 1-2 coats can really achieve the "entirely wet sheen look" because the previous coats set up the surface to be smooth enough for the paint to settle out uniformly.

But trying to intentionally achieve that "wet look" is more risky than simply letting consistent technique lay down even coats that have no risk of developing texture, runs, or sags.

It's when the coat/s are dry, and when then under careful examination look completely uniform that one determines the quality of the finish.

Here are some last minute pointers:

1. Too fast a speed going across or/and too far a distance from the surface will result in a rougher texture akin to a fine grit sandpaper. Especially the "too far away" part.

2. A critical item is "Overlap". It should be 60% minimum, and 70% cannot hurt. In fact, "Overlap" is more responsible for achieving a consistently smooth, wet look than speed, because when you go back over a previously painted area at the proper speed, and re-coat a percentage of the previous row, your applying just enough additional paint...not the excessive amount that going slower all to often does.


3. The biggest danger is the urge to go back over spots that seem weak in coverage. Don't. If you tried hard to maintain speed, distance, and overlap and there seems to be some areas that look sparser than others, let the screen dry, and if indeed they were "sparse" enough to matter, you'll see them, you can "feather in " some fill, let that dry, then proceed as normal.

Quote:


2) Should I need any thinning in the final SF mix outside of the 18-24 oz water in the recipe?

Mixing paint today and I hope to spray SF tonight!

Try the first level (18 oz.) and see if it is thin enough. If not, dump the paint back in, rinse the Sock Filter, then add water in 2 oz increments and re-try.

It's not really all that much effort to go to to achieve a perfect viscosity. Besides, what might seem perfect running through the Sock might not exit the Gun like you want. How well the paint come out...and goes one is always the deciding factor.


Now....go squirt something.....
post #62 of 139
Thread Starter 
Running into some issues... the SF mix came out blotchy and I don't think it's viscosity, I'm as thin now as my primer was last night and it sprayed with no issues.... plus there was paint dripping out of the trigger mechanism. It seemed like there was something plugged or some other internal problem.

I took the whole gun mechanism apart and checked/recleaned everything, was extra careful when reinserting the needle to get it tight to try to make sure the little plastic seal seats. Now I don't see any drips, but it's still blotchy:

In terms of thinning, I made up the SF mix as listed in that thread, first using 18 oz water, added 2 additional ounces three more times to put me at 24 and it was still thick. I pulled out 20 oz. from the can and thinned that with another ounce twice (finally looked and passed through the filter ok, then sprayed the "duster" you see below. So it was max water in the formula, plus an additional 10%. It it possible I still need more??

Anybody's duster coat look like this?
post #63 of 139
No. Just because we call it a "Duster" doesn't mean it looks like "dust". Let that dry, and repeat...you'll see those open areas start to fill in.
post #64 of 139
Thread Starter 
Things got better, by the time that first duster dried it was so flat you couldn't feel any texture running your hand across it. 2 dusters and three thin/medium coats and it looks pretty damn good.

I'll post pics in the morning.

Thanks MM, your post brought my blood pressure back into its normal range.
post #65 of 139
Glad your heart is doing better now. I had the same issue to start with as well as thinking I had "overthinned" the mix. As has been said before, the dusters are jsut to allow the full coats something to tack to. Cant wait to see the progress!!
post #66 of 139
Thread Starter 
After duster #2:


After medium coat #2: (two dusters, two a bit heavier)


After medium coat #3 (final?) (two dusters, three a bit heavier)


Full Wall so far:



So the finish is obviously not perfectly flat due to the fact that my spray gun just did not apply the paint in a droplet size that you'd expect from say, a can of spray paint, which is I guess what I expected. The color is consistent throughout and the screen is very smooth to the touch when you run you hand across it. Absolutely no sandpaper bumps like I saw before.

What say MM and the masses? Sweet perfection, good enough, or terrible- go look for a sintra vendor?

I'll hook up the PJ today to see how it performs in a couple simple tests.
post #67 of 139
hang up the gun. thats one of the better diy finishes that ive seen posted.
post #68 of 139
I would say that looks great to my untrained eye!!!!!


So a few questions as I get ready to paint today if you don't mind?

1. How long between coats did you wait?
2. Did you clean your sprayer between coats?
3. What was your 'medium coat' speed/distance
4. Did you sand in between any coats?


I only have 18 oz in my mix, I guess I should be prepared to add another 10 oz?
post #69 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by newB24 View Post

I would say that looks great to my untrained eye!!!!!


So a few questions as I get ready to paint today if you don't mind?

1. How long between coats did you wait?
2. Did you clean your sprayer between coats?
3. What was your 'medium coat' speed/distance
4. Did you sand in between any coats?


I only have 18 oz in my mix, I guess I should be prepared to add another 10 oz?

Thanks- answers below:

1) I waited probably 30 minutes after the dusters and closer to 45 minutes to an hour after the medium coats. I basically just waited until everything was dry to the touch and all of the sheen was gone upon inspection with a flashlight, which makes the sheen of wet paint easy to see. I also used a space heater a few feet from that wall to keep it warm, which sped things up. I moved it around as needed to dry the wet spots, but never got closer than 4-5' from the wall. It was a tiny space heater but it helped a lot.

2) I did not clean between coats, but I did pull the hose each time and put the sprayer/tank in a garbage bag and wrapped it up tight to prevent drying. I have the Graco (no name) HVLP that MM recommends from Gleem. No issues and easy clean-up at the end.

3) Dusters were 12-14" and 3'/sec, medium coats were roughly 12" and about 2'/sec. Obviously there was some variation in and out, faster and slower, but those were my targets and I had the wife watch a coat or two to make sure I was close to that.

4) I had a flat surface after priming, gave it a quick once over with a fine sanding block and wiped down with a *barely* damp cloth before beginning, and didn't sand between SF coats.

5) I took the entire formulation batch to 24 oz of water, then added another 8-10% each time I loaded to sprayer tank. Be sure to check your own viscosity using the filter technique MM describes because there may be some difference batch to batch based on variation in the paints, especially the ceramcoat. (That's a guess, just saying don't take my dilution as if it's a must do.) FWIW, I ended up with a runout time using the Graco HVLP viscosity tool of between 60-70 seconds for the SF results above. I followed the viscosity tool technique in the Graco DVD and timed from full cup to when the continuous flow from the cup stopped.

GL, post pics!
post #70 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

hang up the gun. thats one of the better diy finishes that ive seen posted.

BTW, you just made my day!

I thought you were going to say "Hang the gun up. I'll forward some links to screen manufacturer sites. DIY is not for everyone."
post #71 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by develvjd- View Post
BTW, you just made my day!

I thought you were going to say "Hang the gun up. I'll forward some links to screen manufacturer sites. DIY is not for everyone."

Yeah. Hey.... lookee thar! A "flock" of Pigs just cruised overhead.

So wassup today?
post #72 of 139
Thread Starter 
After some critical viewing, I can see a hint of texture in dynamic mode when I project images with super-smooth/flat color, like you'd see in block letters on a Pixar film for example. I decided to let the contract crew proceed and give it some time before making any decisions about next steps. To be clear, this screen is done, but if I decide to try another run at it, I'll buy a 10'x5' piece of sintra in the spring and try to work on a smoother coat. (You see how I plan the next project even before this one is done?)

Make no mistake, it's beautiful and I love it! My wife is also stoked and tells me I'm nuts when I talk about any texture. Maybe I am.

More pics...
The future kitchenette/bar area:


View from South to North:


View from North to South, including egress window:


And the home theater screen... She's all caged up while the contractors paint-
post #73 of 139
Looks really great....

Thanks so much for posting such good pics, they are helping me evaluate my own screen!

We are supposed to get carpeting this week so I will try and get some pics posted.
post #74 of 139
stop making me jealous.
post #75 of 139
Thread Starter 
disregard the white blobs, just dust on the camera lens. Velvet borders go on this weekend and I should be able to get some screenies as soon as I get that cabinet loaded up with some electronics.

post #76 of 139
That Smoke Detectors' gotta gooooooooo !
post #77 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

That Smoke Detectors' gotta gooooooooo !

haha! a nice placement!!!!
post #78 of 139
Thread Starter 
You guys crack me up! Believe me, that little smoke detector is last on my list of sub-optimal theater design issues.
post #79 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by develvjd- View Post

You guys crack me up! Believe me, that little smoke detector is last on my list of sub-optimal theater design issues.

Mebbie sew...mebbie sew, but when the PJ comes on, it's a'gonna look like a UFO hovering there. At least take the Cover off and spray it with a can of a very Dark Gray paint. Not Flat black....that really doesn't work as well, and will reflect "blue" light excessively.
post #80 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by develvjd- View Post

You guys crack me up! Believe me, that little smoke detector is last on my list of sub-optimal theater design issues.

Come on! All that design work and upfront info and you think you are sub-optimal! I see lots of stuff you thought about that I wish I did.

Well except the smoke detector.....
post #81 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


Mebbie sew...mebbie sew, but when the PJ comes on, it's a'gonna look like a UFO hovering there. At least take the Cover off and spray it with a can of a very Dark Gray paint. Not Flat black....that really doesn't work as well, and will reflect "blue" light excessively.

Now THAT I can do!
post #82 of 139
Thread Starter 
Big day today, in-wall speakers go in, PJ gets permanently mounted, electronics go in, screenies later?
post #83 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by develvjd- View Post

Big day today, in-wall speakers go in, PJ gets permanently mounted, electronics go in, screenies later?

Well hurry it up wit 'dose Screenies!! I plan to hit "Jaws" on my first day "on Island" and go out to reconnoiter the surf and shoals in a Tow Boat. But anytime you get out amongst 50' + waves you stand the chance of going out...but not coming back

I'd hate to miss the "unveiling", or rather....the Premier.
post #84 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Well hurry it up wit 'dose Screenies!! I plan to hit "Jaws" on my first day "on Island" and go out to reconnoiter the surf and shoals in a Tow Boat. But anytime you get out amongst 50' + waves you stand the chance of going out...but not coming back

I'd hate to miss the "unveiling", or rather....the Premier.
rear in-walls are in... fronts up next.
post #85 of 139
Thread Starter 
It's alive!!! All speakers in and sounding great, electronics 90% in, PJ crankin', took the afternoon off to watch Up on Blu Ray with the fam.

Just need to add the velvet borders tonight and get some screen shots.
post #86 of 139
Thread Starter 
Speakers done, electronics at least functional, border done, PJ rocking, and I found that when I switch to Living Room mode from Dynamic, I lose the texture and the picture looks awesome.

Here's a (not that great) screen shot with quite a lot of ambient light. I'll try to get more shots tomorrow and some of the finished theater wall.

post #87 of 139
Looks awesome! Waiting for more screens!
post #88 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vao View Post

Looks awesome! Waiting for more screens!

Looking great! You have inspired me to start a DIY screen. Paint has been ordered. Now just to find my Sintra.

What settings do you use on your D5000 to take pics? I'd like to take some with my Sony A200.
post #89 of 139
Thread Starter 
This is about as outrageous as I can get the light. A BIG window completely uncovered and with direct sunlight in the room and some lights on as well. Easily watchable and looks pretty good to me...

I'll try to get some more screen shots in reasonable light later tonight. I've found that I can keep most of the basement well lit and just dim the lights in the immediate vicinity of the screen and get excellent results with a bright room. This is what I was going for, for parties, football games, poker tournaments, etc. My ultra-dark viewing will probably be 20% or less of the time. I'll usually have the lights on.

I LOVE this setup!





Plans/result comparison:


post #90 of 139
Sorry if this isn't allowed, but I was curious as to what you estimate your costs to be putting your screen together. I love your setup and was thinking of doing something very similar. I have a large basement, that I hope to start finishing soon, I want to use for watching football and large parties. I don't want to turn off the lights or blind the windows as watching football in the dark with grown men is just weird.

I should have started with this, but you did an awesome job on this screen. I loved seeing the pics from planning to completion. I never would have thought about doing this until I saw this and the many other threads on here. Thanks for contributing.
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