Newbie Question on Multi Zone

Be sure to run an ethernet cable from the closet to the volume control locations, for futureproofing. I'm currently upgrading from VCs to keypads, running an ethernet cable to each VC location.

Crutchfield has some good write-ups on distributed audio design.

14 or 16 AWG, for the speaker cables.

Speakers in the bathroom - depends on how humid it gets. Moisture-proof speakers available.

Sub not needed, but would be nice. Currently researching this possibility myself.

Read the AVR manual to see how to output stereo sound, from stereo sources. A 7.1 AVR has 8 amps on board, you may be able to use more than a single pair of outputs for your system. I've used 2 channels from my AVR for powering my 6-7 zones, for background music, without issues. If you need more power, then invest in a multichannel amp.

A 7.1 AVR has 7 amps available: 1 center, 2 front, 2 side, 2 back, with one line output for the sub, hence the 7.1 designation.

The receiver: traditionally a stereo receiver is used to power multiple pairs of speakers. Yes it is technically possible to get 7 channel stereo from a surround receiver, but in my experience they always always get changed to a DSP mode on accident and nobody knows how to change it; it just creates more of a hassle than anything. Also if you are set on using a passive volume control it you will never find anything set up for a surround receiver. You are better off using a standalone keypad that can control the system such as the RTI RK-2 or 4. This way you aren't interrupting the speaker circuit with an inefficient volume control, you are directly controlling the digital attenuator that the receiver has. Besides that each button can do multiple functions like cycling music presets from a cable box or a lot more.

Speaker Placement: Speakers on opposite walls facing each other is usually a bad idea as they can cancel many frequencies out. It is important to have uniform sound but it is possible to have too many speakers. If the house is traditional construction ceiling speakers do an excellent job of covering large areas without hotspotting. Also do not worry about moisture in any rooms. Modern materials hold up very well to moisture.

Wire: if the application is background music, 16 is sufficient.

Subwoofer: in-wall is typically expensive and underwhelming. Try to hide a free-standing somewhere.

The issue is with the use of the surround receiver, not the volume controls. Keeping the receiver in the multi-channel-stereo mode may be difficult (you'd have to try it to see how it works in practice). If it doesn't "remember" the mode(s) correctly, you may end up with a system that doesn't behave well (especially for others to use). But it doesn't hurt to try it and see...



All depends on the speaker brand/model. Ceiling speakers have had a reputation of being cheap and lousy-sounding. But that doesn't have to be the case. Lots of very good quality speakers out there. I would personally recommend Boston Acoustics line, great sounding at a moderate price. Many folks here have also had good luck with the ultra-cheap Monoprice speakers. If you stick with a popular speaker/cutout size (6.5"), you can always go cheap, and upgrade to a better/larger speaker later if you choose. Just don't get a super-big and super-cheap one, as it may limit your future options ('cause a big hole is hard to fill!).


I'd actually say it's exactly the opposite. With all that stuff on the ceiling, no one is going to notice a few more circles... Whereas, on the wall, they are directly in the eye line, and you eat up wallspace that may have been used for anything else (art, decorations, window treatments, etc.). No one looks at your ceiling, but they will immediately notice the big things in the walls (even if they're painted to "blend in"). Putting them in the walls (since these are all exterior walls, too) will require many more cuts/repairs in the drywall, too. Something else to consider.

I think 2 pairs, mounted in the ceiling along the long axis in each of those two rooms will be fine. Especially with the hardwood floors (nice room!).

Jeff

Speakers don't "put out" Watts, the amp does. The wattage listed is the rated power input - meaning how much they can take before being damaged.

Given the bargain price on the Monoprice units, I'd be inclined to recommend the 6" instead of the 8", for the sole reason of the smaller cut-out giving you plenty of options for changing them out in the future. I'm not saying you'll be unhappy with them, but 8" speakers require quite a big cut-out, and "upgrading" them later may be difficult...


Wow, now talk about overkill!!! That's an awfully nice and beefy amp for this job. But you also probably want a pre-amp / source selector / volume control ahead of the amp - otherwise you'll be driving any amp very hard (unless the Squeezbox has variable line out - I don't know). Unless you've got the XPA2 sitting around, I'd suggest any cheap stereo receiver instead...


All cabling runs in parallel back to the amp, just need to wire-nut the wires (like to like) together if you can't get them all to fit into the amp's speaker connectors. The impedance matching makes the load appear to the amp as an 8ohm load instead of the 2-4 ohm load it would see with 2 or 3 pairs.


How are you going to put in-ceiling speakers in place without cutting into the ceiling??? The goal there is to cut the hole for the speaker, and then throw the wire along the joists to the wall (hopefully they're going the right way). The hard part is getting the transition from wall to ceiling. That can be where some crown molding can come in handy...


Jeff

No, that's wrong - which is why I mentioned the "Watts" thing. Speakers convert electrical power into sound waves. The more power (watts) pushed from the amplifier, the louder the sound. If you push more power than the speaker is RATED for (the "rated for 60 Watts" spec), you can/will damage the speaker.

If you hook up an 40W amp to a pair of speakers rated for "80W max" and another pair rated for "200W max", they will produce the same volume (assuming the speakers have the same efficiency).


A 200W/channel amp is enormous for whole-house audio. 20-40W/channel is typical. Now, using that amp with some care will probably work fine. You'll find that typical background listening levels are just a few Watts.


No. Find another friend to ask those kind of questions.

A/V installers (and ahem, us hobbyists) have lots of specialized tools to do that kind of work without cutting holes everywhere... If it was my house, and I had to cross more than a couple joists, it would be time to hire an expert.


You will have 2 pairs of speakers, correct? If each pair is 8ohm, in parallel they become 4ohm loads. The impedance matching volume control(s) will make that appear as 8ohms to the amplifier. If you need more than 2 pairs, then you need the Xantech model or one like it that has more settings.


No. How do think you were going to retro-fit that??? You have an enclosed ceiling already (floor above), so you'll be fine. Some folks do build boxes around their in-ceiling speakers, but generally that's only done (and an option, not a necessity) in ceilings open to large spaces above (attic).

EDIT: Oh, and pre-construction speaker brackets / enclosures like that do NOT necessarily work on other brands of speakers. In-wall / in-ceiling speaker 'sizes' (such as 6.5" and 8") are the size of the speaker cone, not the cut-out size of the whole speaker itself. Some 6.5" speakers will use a 7" cutout, others may use an 8". Using a bracket for one with the other will make you cry later...


Jeff