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Ultra-Clear DLP Glasses for Under $60 - Page 6

post #151 of 593
1/4/11 at 7:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Datagg View Post

Well i got mine in yesterday.... Great shipping, took 3 days to get here. Ok my thoughts..

PROS: Lightweight. I have a big Melon and they fit great!!. I could almost forget they were even on. IR - All Looks really good... Yet
...

Are yours DLP link or IR? We got gently booted from the IR UC thread so maybe you should ID the set you have so we can compare apples to apples.
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post #152 of 593
1/4/11 at 7:55pm
Received my 3 pairs of UC DLP Link glasses last night. Tested them via Panny 300 on Sammy 67A750 with 3D Demo Disk and A Christmas Carol 3D. I sit 12ft from screen.

Pros: Price, quick shipping, never lost synch with lights on/off, good comfy fit for my above average size head, very few internal reflections, fairly lightweight. I noticed no ghosting on the materials I watched.

Cons: I saw rainbows on light colored scenes in Demo Disk. They went away with 45 degree head tilt in either direction. It was hardly noticeable at all on A Christmas Carol, which is a mostly dark movie. Some tint change with vertical head tilt. If I tilted up and looked thru lower portion of lenses, there was a red color shift and a blue color shift in the opposite direction.

Conclusion: Overall I am satisfied with my purchase. At the very least, these will be used when visitors come over. I have ordered 2 pairs of Viewsonics, and will give comparison when they arrive. Biggest issue I have is the rainbows. If not for that, I would be extremely satisfied. It is distracting on extended light colored background scenes. My wife barely noticed it, however. IF I can find a pair of DLP Link glasses that don't show rainbows, I will not use the UC's as my primary pair of 3D glasses.
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post #153 of 593
1/4/11 at 8:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvis Is Alive View Post

IF I can find a pair of DLP Link glasses that don't show rainbows, I will not use the UC's as my primary pair of 3D glasses.

If $175 is what it's worth to you here's your solution.

http://www.reald.com/Content/Crystal-Eyes-5.aspx
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post #154 of 593
1/5/11 at 12:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

Are yours DLP link or IR? We got gently booted from the IR UC thread so maybe you should ID the set you have so we can compare apples to apples.

Mine are IR. Tried DLP at the showroom and the IR looked a smidge better and didn't lose sync when i turned my head. So for now, IR is the way im going.

Set WD73838.. Panny 100- PS3 - RX-A1000
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post #155 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick [D]vB View Post

What refresh rates are listed in the CCC and windows display properties menus? Do they change when you untick the boxes? Have you got a VGA cable you can try instead? Try setting he projector to 3D mode from its menu first...

thanks

i found the settings and was able to change the output to 120hz ... downlaoded the sterescopic player. set the viewing output to page flipped (i think but i tried other settings too) set input to SBS and played a sbs video but my projector never showed the 3D symbol.. as far as i understand my projector when seeing a 3d input should dispaly a 3D symbol for me to change the 3D to on
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post #156 of 593
1/5/11 at 10:24am
We better keep this thread on topic, have replied in the other thread.
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post #157 of 593
1/5/11 at 10:35am
Has anyone here tried both DLP-Link and IR setups as a first-hand comparison yet?
I went with an IR setup instead and I'm totally blown away by how awesome and flawless and literally "in your face" that it looks at 8-9ft away from my 50in DLP TV (as good as TRON 3D looked at the local 3D IMAX Theater a couple of weeks ago!) but the "issue" of the solid black screen/scene image being deep red instead from the DLP-Link signal is a little annoying and I'm wondering if the pro of that red hue on solid black scenes being removed by the DLP-Link glasses is worth the con's of DLP-Link rainbow, haziness, ghosting, etc...
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post #158 of 593
1/5/11 at 10:44am
Oh man, don't tell me that. I got 2 pair of Xpands that came with my 65738, and am waiting on a pair of Ultra Clear DLP Link glasses. Oh well, I really only paid for the Ultra Clears; that's what I'm telling myself anyway.

BTW, what does ghosting look like? Haven't noticed any haziness or rainbow issues.
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post #159 of 593
1/5/11 at 12:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zukikat
Has anyone here tried both DLP-Link and IR setups as a first-hand comparison yet?
I went with an IR setup instead and I'm totally blown away by how awesome and flawless and literally "in your face" that it looks at 8-9ft away from my 50in DLP TV (as good as TRON 3D looked at the local 3D IMAX Theater a couple of weeks ago!) but the "issue" of the solid black screen/scene image being deep red instead from the DLP-Link signal is a little annoying and I'm wondering if the pro of that red hue on solid black scenes being removed by the DLP-Link glasses is worth the con's of DLP-Link rainbow, haziness, ghosting, etc...
I prefer the dlp link setup over ir on my tv. My 65736 was putting out a murky green on everything with the ir setup. Dlp link was like getting a new tv. I use natural instead of bright mode a lot now. It's amazing how much detail is missing when that flash is washing out the picture. I see something new in every movie now.

I gave my ir stuff to my parents for their 73738.
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post #160 of 593
1/5/11 at 1:35pm
Probably a dumb question but where do you put the batteries in the UC DLP Link Glasses? Mine came with glasses and separate batteries saying to insert batteries before use. I notice on the right arm there is a little black piece that says "pull" but its stiff and I don't want to break it, especially if its not the battery compartment
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post #161 of 593
1/5/11 at 1:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by perfectdark View Post
Probably a dumb question but where do you put the batteries in the UC DLP Link Glasses? Mine came with glasses and separate batteries saying to insert batteries before use. I notice on the right arm there is a little black piece that says "pull" but its stiff and I don't want to break it, especially if its not the battery compartment
Mine came with a printout with isntructions showing how to pull the battery holder.

You have to squeeze the little tab with a groove with your nail first to release the holder.
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post #162 of 593
1/5/11 at 2:24pm
Tried UC Glasses with Optoma HD66 dlp projector. Awesome , i have only watched 4 different videos for approx 30mins but the image is awesome (better than i was expecting) no ghosting, clear, no rainbows and glasses are as comfortable as my sun glasses

nice buy
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post #163 of 593
1/5/11 at 4:15pm
I may have missed it guys (using mobile AVSForum app on phone), but has there been a comparison between these and the Optoma on a TV (not a projector).
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post #164 of 593
1/5/11 at 5:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jadocs View Post

I may have missed it guys (using mobile AVSForum app on phone), but has there been a comparison between these and the Optoma on a TV (not a projector).

best comparison yet...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post19729163
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post #165 of 593
1/5/11 at 5:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by perfectdark View Post

Tried UC Glasses with Optoma HD66 dlp projector. Awesome , i have only watched 4 different videos for approx 30mins but the image is awesome (better than i was expecting) no ghosting, clear, no rainbows and glasses are as comfortable as my sun glasses

You got pageflipping working then, worth plugging the laptop in after all! Did you have to install the iz3d driver? If you did you may as well try a game out, the "Portal - first slice" demo looks great in 3D, you can download it free from Steam.
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post #166 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:13pm
Maybe I just got taken, but both of the DLP Link glasses I received will not sync at all. I tried the tape 'trick' and still no luck. Pitch black room, with no routers or ir emitters.

Extremely frustrating when you're excited to watch a 3D movie on your brand new TV. Hopefully Carl will respond quickly.
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post #167 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zukikat View Post

Mike, which 3D Effect mode are you choosing on your Sammy, Mode 1 or Mode 2, or is the A750's 3D menu totally different from my A650?
Since you didn't get as much depth as you were expecting and the PQ had a few issues, did you try the other mode and give it a few seconds to actually switch?
I had read repeatedly that I needed Mode 2 on my Samsung "for all 3D viewing" so that's what I selected from the very beginning and it turns out that for IR glasses Mode 2 does have some depth to it but it's mediocre, shallow, hazy, and fairly hard to watch while Mode 1 is simply unbelievable and so deep I felt like could literally just reach out and touch stuff while seated 9 feet away from my "little" 50-inch TV with no sync or PQ issues whatsoever other than maybe wanting just a little bit more saturation and brightness but I haven't even begun to figure out how to calibrate my TV yet and didn't even try... I just plugged everything in, figured out the 2 settings I had wrong that were preventing any video from showing up in the 3D Effect modes, and then just sat and watched jaw-dropping 3D HDTV from about 3:30PM 'till after midnight, switching between the IR UC's and IR SSG's a few times at random just to compare them.
Note that I have the IR version of the UC glasses and actual Sammy SSG-2100's which both arrived yesterday to begin my 3D Viewing experience and all I can say is WOW!

Thanks zukikat.

Yeah, I watched in mode 1 the first time. There was a test pattern screen output by the Panny that let me test both modes. I did not notice any diff between mode 1 and 2 there. I was in a hurry to watch the movie before the wife came home.

Today I tried mode 2 and BAM! What an awesome job the old TV does. The wife watched that with me and had zero complaints about the glasses over her RX glasses or anything else about the UCs or experience. I did notice some effects I had missed before. Going to watch it again soon, the quality is that good. By that I mean film quality, the plot and acting is typical of classic 80s horror movies which I grew up with and I found it spot on.

So the picture was a ton better as far as 3d. Still some rainbow that goes away when I turn my head 45*, how stupid is that design by what I gather is most manufacturers of DLP link glasses?

The UC DLP link glasses are a hit on my Samsung DLP TV. Very good picture on the MBV movie I have seen. Oh, and I have now tried them with all my ceiling flourescent lighting on and not a single synch issue from that. Now I want to get my hands on that Avatar movie to see if that CG stuff floats out of my screen like it did on the Mits at the store. Awaiting Saw 3d.

Will probably be ordering another set or two.
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post #168 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoangelo View Post

Maybe I just got taken, but both of the DLP Link glasses I received will not sync at all. I tried the tape 'trick' and still no luck. Pitch black room, with no routers or ir emitters.

Extremely frustrating when you're excited to watch a 3D movie on your brand new TV. Hopefully Carl will respond quickly.

Uh Oh, tell us about your setup. What kind of DLP TV or projector do you have? What equipment are you using?
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post #169 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

Uh Oh, tell us about your setup. What kind of DLP TV or projector do you have? What equipment are you using?

I have a Mit 60738 DLP and a Panasonic DMP-BDT100.

3D is set as checkerboard.

The glasses try to sync up but are never able to for longer then about five seconds.
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post #170 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:27pm
Don't know if it would make a difference, but can you set your TV to automatic instead of checkerboard? I have a 65738 that I set to automatic. I am waiting on a pair of the UC DLP LINK glasses as we speak. My Xpand 102s work fine, but I need a 3rd pair and want to experiment.

PS I have a Sony S470 BD
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post #171 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:33pm
Wow, nevermind. I don't think the format would have anything to do with the syncing, sorry.
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post #172 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:33pm
Are you able to view the Panny player 3d test screen on the TV with the glasses at all? Does the Mits show a message from the Panny in the upper right corner that there is a blue ray 3d when you start it up?
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post #173 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:34pm
OK, just brainstorming here. Is your IR emitter turned off? Ah heck, I'm just gonna stop now, that's a separate kit.
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post #174 of 593
1/5/11 at 6:46pm
I have a heck of a time getting my TV into 3d mode right now but I am getting smarter. There must be a 3d checkerboard signal available to the TV first. Then I have to go into the menu and under display options enable 3d Mode1 or 2.

If your Mits is like my Sammy then that may be the problem. If it does not see a 3d signal, then it will have the 3d option grayed out. I have to go back and start the movie over. Also, on my TV I use and name HDMI3 as PC. This seems to work. If all else fails try another HDMI cable. I am using a 1.3 version with no troubles.

Save me a search, how old is your TV?
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post #175 of 593
1/5/11 at 7:02pm
If you're talking to me, I got my 65738 about a month ago, SW version 12.06.
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post #176 of 593
1/5/11 at 7:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by XRA View Post

If you're talking to me, I got my 65738 about a month ago, SW version 12.06.

No, I was talking to mcoangelo who is having the trouble with his DLP glasses. Your info is helpful though as that appears to be a newer TV and may differ than mine which is another brand. At any rate I would think that it is still a checkerboard DLP and if it has an IR output that would need to be disabled and the DLP link must be activated in the 3d picture option.
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post #177 of 593
1/5/11 at 7:23pm
It's only a month old.

Ok, so I hooked up my xbox with Black ops and set the tv to side by side (I had updated the firmware when I brought the tv home), and the glasses worked fine.

I then switched back over to the blu ray player and switched the tv back to checkerboard and the glasses sync'd immediately!

Odd. I didn't change anything else.
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post #178 of 593
1/5/11 at 7:37pm
Glad it works now. I don't know about your TV but here is some reading: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1281867

BTW: How do you like the DLP glasses?
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post #179 of 593
1/5/11 at 8:16pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoangelo View Post

Maybe I just got taken, but both of the DLP Link glasses I received will not sync at all. I tried the tape 'trick' and still no luck. Pitch black room, with no routers or ir emitters.

Extremely frustrating when you're excited to watch a 3D movie on your brand new TV. Hopefully Carl will respond quickly.

Some people have gotten so excited, they forgot to turn on 3D mode in the TV. Probably not your problem though.
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post #180 of 593
1/5/11 at 8:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Some people have gotten so excited, they forgot to turn on 3D mode in the TV. Probably not your problem though.

I wish that would of been the problem! I would have felt stupid but at least I would have known what the issue was. Currently I still have no idea what changed, but we just finished Alice in Wonderland with no issues. My wife's glasses did loose sync when I turned on a light, but I expected that given some of the other reviews.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

Glad it works now. I don't know about your TV but here is some reading: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1281867

BTW: How do you like the DLP glasses?

Thanks man. They function about as well as expected. It is a little frustrating to have to provide a completely pitch black room for them to work correctly. I'll play with them a little more and see if there is a solution to the sensitivity, but if I had to choose right now I probably would of saved a little more and purchased one of the more expensive DLP Link glasses or possibly IR. Especially considering the IR emitter glasses seem to suffer less from ambient light. (Note, I haven't used any other glasses.)

Definitely seems to be a case of you get what you pay for, but I'll post again after I have tested them more significantly.
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