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HuskerOmaha's Basement Theater ++ - Page 2

post #31 of 625
Thread Starter 
Alright....that is a catchup to about where I'm at. I need to take a breather but will post more tomorrow.

Update from last post: I now have the cabinets hung and taped off for staining/poly fun. I'll try and post those tomorrow.
I also have some more equipment that I need to do the glorious unboxing shots...

Questions and your opinions please:

Do I paint the ceiling between the screen and first soffit the same as the screen wall?

Ideas for finishing out the bartop? I'll post my ideas tomorrow, but so far consist of stone veneer and a granite top with wainscoating on the inside (where your feet would be while sitting facing the screen).

Where do I vent my HVAC room? I might throw a couple (or 1) vents on the stairwell below the recessed lighting as this is directly in front of the HVAC/H20 heater, and maybe one above the door to the HVAC closet and one below the AV rack? Is that overkill?

When should I try and figure out the projector mounting?

How should I mount the surrounds...french cleat?

Any ideas for a good ceiling fan/paddle fan that only has a ~20 inch span? That matches the paint scheme/And no light kit please.

Do I get Berklines that have the power recline or sans?

Check back soon-Thanks for reading!
post #32 of 625
Wow your almost done. Nice work

My suggestion is to go to Menard's buy a piece of oak and grab stain samples. They have a large selection of little stain packets you can get. Cut your oak up in to equal pieces and stain away. for clear coat I use the minwax wipe on poly as it drys fast and is idiot proof this way you can try some stain colors and not worry that you will not like your first choice because once stain hits those cabinets theres no turning back.
post #33 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post
Do I get Berklines that have the power recline or sans?
I've had non-power Coaster chairs and sold them and got Power Berklines 090 model. I didn't like the fact that the manual seats stopped only at certain spots which weren't the most comfortable positions for me. They also would sometimes collapse/move when I moved around in the chairs. I say Power all the way.
post #34 of 625
Husker,

I have a few suggestions:

To determine best projector placement and throw capabilities you can take an 8ft ladder. make a small plywood shelf and just hang it from different heights off the ladder to find the best location for the screen/projector. Power up proj but you don't even need to hook up a signal because your projector will still throw a intro screen onto the wall. At least my Toshiba MT800 did. You can even bring up menus on the proj to see how well it focuses on the bare wall. Then mark the wall with push pins at the corners. Tis will help in determining where to mount proj & screen to work well together.

As far as covering the power panel you can cover the whole wall in GOM type cloth and since it's not in large width rolls you will lay it out where one section covers the panel. Then make that section removable. It provides thress useful purposes. 1. Access to the electrical panel when needed. 2. I did mine is black so it provides a non-distracting backdrop to the picture. 3. You can treat the wall behind the GOM with JM Insul-shield to provide acoustic dampening. The result is you need less treatments in the room. A treated screen wall gives the acoustic equivalent of having your speakers father out into the room and we know that sounds better.
post #35 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

Alright....that is a catchup to about where I'm at. I need to take a breather but will post more tomorrow.

Update from last post: I now have the cabinets hung and taped off for staining/poly fun. I'll try and post those tomorrow.
I also have some more equipment that I need to do the glorious unboxing shots...

Questions and your opinions please:

Do I paint the ceiling between the screen and first soffit the same as the screen wall?

Ideas for finishing out the bartop? I'll post my ideas tomorrow, but so far consist of stone veneer and a granite top with wainscoating on the inside (where your feet would be while sitting facing the screen).

Where do I vent my HVAC room? I might throw a couple (or 1) vents on the stairwell below the recessed lighting as this is directly in front of the HVAC/H20 heater, and maybe one above the door to the HVAC closet and one below the AV rack? Is that overkill?

When should I try and figure out the projector mounting?

How should I mount the surrounds...french cleat?

Any ideas for a good ceiling fan/paddle fan that only has a ~20 inch span? That matches the paint scheme/And no light kit please.

Do I get Berklines that have the power recline or sans?

Check back soon-Thanks for reading!

Just make sure the ceiling is dark.
Mine was painted white and the painters had to come back to repaint it later.

Mike
post #36 of 625
Thread Starter 
So, I have my ceiling and walls done, but now discussing over on another thread...I was thinking of doing a small marquee similar to BIG's...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post19655833

Do you think this would look good?

Would my three can lights on the ceiling nearest the wall still look ok if I made the marquee out of 1xs instead of 2x4s?

I might throw up some drawings soon.....

I could then treat the whole wall in GOM either black or.....black?

LoudandClear....I like the idea.......

Edit: Definitely think I'm doing a stage and marquee unless the better half says no
post #37 of 625
I bet it would look fine if you put the trim on the piece you make.
post #38 of 625
Thread Starter 
Anyone have strong feelings/tried this stuff?

Was browsing yamahaSHOs thread....

http://www.fpi-protostar.com/hitack.htm

vs GOM panels for around the screen?
post #39 of 625
Thread Starter 
post #40 of 625
As far as the cloth goes the stick on stuff might not be acoustically transparent. It needs to be to benefit from the sound absorbtion material you put behind it just like acoustic treatment panels. The cloth will be suspended over wood framing strips or a wood frame in your case. I used 1x2s and put Dazian Expo cloth http://www.dazian.com/ over it and JM Insul Shield behind the cloth. Yours will be done a little different since you will have a removable panel. I had 3 large windows on one side of my theater so I made removable window plugs that were finished exaclly like the surrounding wall so you didn't know there were windows there unless they were removed.

The stage building info is good. I framed mine with ~6 inch center framework and filled it with rolled up carpet padding foam (think of little rolled up sleeping bags). It was left over from the old carpet. I had to stand on the 3/4" plywood top to compress it enough to put in the deck screws. Made it very inert. Use deck screws since they will pull and hold tighter longer than nails will. Use common carpentry framing technique and then double it
post #41 of 625
Thread Starter 
Of the stage/marquee idea for now. Just wants the room "done".

So, that will be a project for later....the extra couple yards of carpet wasted down the road won't be a big deal....
post #42 of 625
Haha, I know the feeling. You can certainly do it afterwards. Just keep in the back of your mind when planning other parts that might change things.
post #43 of 625
Thread Starter 
Above fridge cabinet and peeking around the corner into the bathroom is
one as well.




Cabinets are 22" deep on bottom, 12" standard on top.
Includes roll out trash on left, liquor shelf +stem holder on left, and clear glass center on upper above future sink.




Probably my favorite, is the wine cabinet. Took advantage of the closet space and set it so the front is flush with the other cabinets height wise etc.
Should hold ~23 bottles with maybe a few extra smaller slots for ports, etc.



No I didn't make these, they were custom built. I don't have the time or skill for that!

Finishing on the other hand.......
post #44 of 625
Thread Starter 
Planning on having 4 bar stool/chairs behind this countertop seating....followed the idea from Jamis and other threads...I think I even found a jpeg/gif of a setup and put it together.

Used 2x4s throughout and covered with 5/8 plywood. If a tornado ever hits Omaha, this isn't going anywhere....cement screws (8?) throughout the base 2x8.



Planning on finishing the top with granite (GraniteWorks? other suggestions from Omahans?) and the sides with stone veneer and maybe wainscoating on the inside.


Examples:



Something similar to this product in a gray to match the room....




Anyone done this? Results?
post #45 of 625
Thread Starter 
I'm going to paint this to match the wall and see what it looks like then.

So far, without the screen, it looks like a huge problem.


If it doesn't disappear being painted and with the screen covering the majority of it, I may remove it and figure something else out.

post #46 of 625
Thread Starter 
A pile of never ending arriving boxes....

HTPC Case
Blu Ray Drive
Dual 2 TB Hard Drives
HTPC Components
Emotiva UPA-7
Monster HTS5100 and AVS2000



And of course wine that needs a home.
post #47 of 625
Thread Starter 
Staining isn't too bad; hiring the poly coats out.......

Should have a few new posts starting next week...but here is where we are at....


Stain is "Dark Oak" by Sherwin Williams. It was either going to be that or Brazilnut...trying to find something that didn't bring too much Red out but that still looked "warm"......





We think this color should look great with the white trim/doors.



Thanks for the comments!
post #48 of 625
love the color of that stain. may have to steal that idea from you.
post #49 of 625
Why hire out the clear coat just use minwax wipe on satin poly its super easy to use
post #50 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

A pile of never ending arriving boxes....

HTPC Case
Blu Ray Drive
Dual 2 TB Hard Drives
HTPC Components
Emotiva UPA-7
Monster HTS5100 and AVS2000



And of course wine that needs a home.

Wives love stacks of gear boxes!

Mike
post #51 of 625
Thread Starter 
Yep, she isn't too appreciative. I will have a big problem once the pallet from roman with berklines/popcorn maker and the pallet from CHT with the audio stuff arrives in the middle of a typical Nebraska snowstorm.

Edit: W00ley-hired the poly out because I got a solid quote for a few hundred and I don't have much time and want to get after the tile!
post #52 of 625
Looking really good so far.

2 things that are important to plan early.

Infrared sensor mounted up front near the screen with signals sent back to equipment. With the screen in front and equipment in back you don't want to have to point the remote behind you to change something. Some equipment may be RF but some will always be Infrared as well. Better to be safe and put it in during construction IMO.

Have you thought about lighting controllers and light zones yet?
I have 4 different light zones controlled by a Lutron Spacer system. It has 4 presets that I programmed with different levels of lighting from each zone. These are also tied to the IR sensor mounted in the front face of my stage riser. Wiring goes under the stage to the IR amplifier at my equipment rack which is not even visable from the theater seating area.

It's important to do this now because you will want to be able to point your remote at the screen to control equipment & lights. We are creatures of habit after pointing our remote at TV screen for many years.
post #53 of 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by LoudandClear View Post

Looking really good so far.

2 things that are important to plan early.

Infrared sensor mounted up front near the screen with signals sent back to equipment. With the screen in front and equipment in back you don't want to have to point the remote behind you to change something. Some equipment may be RF but some will always be Infrared as well. Better to be safe and put it in during construction IMO.

Have you thought about lighting controllers and light zones yet?
I have 4 different light zones controlled by a Lutron Spacer system. It has 4 presets that I programmed with different levels of lighting from each zone. These are also tied to the IR sensor mounted in the front face of my stage riser. Wiring goes under the stage to the IR amplifier at my equipment rack which is not even visable from the theater seating area.

It's important to do this now because you will want to be able to point your remote at the screen to control equipment & lights. We are creatures of habit after pointing our remote at TV screen for many years.

Good points.
I still haven't gotten around to integrating all of my remotes and lighting.
If I had to redo I would have thought even more about control/lighting and HVAC then the actual electronics and speakers. It helps make the room.
Also, if you are doing risers put in smurf tube and electric outlets for any future plans -- eg buttkickers, or outlets for laptops, lights, etc.

Mike
post #54 of 625
Thread Starter 
Guys,

Thanks for the info. I've been thinking about this off and on but seemingly have been more concerned with the rear of the room.

For lights: I have a 3 switch box for the: 1 switch for the 10 can lights in the seating area, 1 for the fan, and 1 for the stairwell lights (1 switch each). I have a switch near cabinets for the 3 cans above the fridge/cabinets. I figured I could dim the fridge/wetbar lights but keep them on during movies but keep the other 10 off. I probably actually made this simple and should have had more than those 3? zones but the wife wanted simple...?

For the fan: Anyone know a good website for 24-32" diameter fans? I need one that fits between the two can lights behind the bar seating but won't affect the light angling from the cans. I believe I have ~40 inches between cans (measured inside each trim).

Thinking about this: http://www.casablancafanco.com/Produ...%C2%AE-41U46D/



For the remote/IR sensor: I have the smurf tubing running from each speaker, I was thinking I could run the IR sensor wire utilizing the center channel smurf tube and place the IR sensor above the center of the screen.

Another option would be fish taping one behind the 2x4 studs through the center outlet in the screen wall (having sensor below screen).


What do you guys think?

And can you send me or post some links to recommended zone lighting that would hook up with a remote (harmony, urc, etc) and any IR sensors you've found to be a good option? So these just run to the AV rack and then you place another run to each component?
post #55 of 625
Since you haven't built your front stage riser you can install an IR sensor in it. That's what I did. You then hardwire the sensor to a ditribution block/amplieier and then you can plug a zillion little stick on IR transmitters on the face of each piece of gear in your rack. I'll dig up an example of what I used after we get back from XMAS shopping.... yuk!

Think about creating some light zones with dimmable rope lights. I have one zone that controls rope lights under my front stage riser overhang. Then another zone that controls same type lights at my 2nd row seat riser. Provides a good border marker so people don't trip on the riser. My 3rd zone is for my 8 sconces on the sides and last light zone for 4 recessed can lights.

One thing to be careful of is position of can lights in regards to where your projector beam will be shining. You DO NOT want your projector to be shining through light coming off the can lights or your picture quality will be greatly reduced. Best is to put can lights to the sides and projector down the middle.
post #56 of 625
Thread Starter 
I'm not too sure the stage/riser will be happening any time soon, but I do like the idea of hiding rope light under the edge of each....good idea.

Went and picked out tile today, after trying to get the required SANTA pictures with our 16 month old....line was too long, mom going back later this week.

Tile should start next week in the bathroom and bar area......

Unboxed some stuff to check it out...



Hope we picked some good stuff for the HTPC. You can probably see everything other than the 2-2TB HDs.

My HTPC is being built by http://www.triggscompconsulting.com/. They are located in Lincoln, but can do many different services for anyone in the area.



Purchased these through the AVSforum classifieds.....Thanks Mike C they look great!



This thing is heavy. And Emotiva ships their stuff right; in the formed packaging....would be hard to shake/break any of this stuff.
post #57 of 625
miniwax dark walnut goes very well with oak. I did my kitchen cabinets that way.
post #58 of 625
Thread Starter 
Our dark oak selection actually looks very similar to the dark walnut.

Should have finished photos up in a couple days.

Next up is tile.

Anyone think I need a subfloor/backerboard?

Probably just going to tile straight onto the smooth concrete, looks level.
post #59 of 625
I guess it depends on how large your tiles are going to be. 18 inch tiles need a flatter surface than 12 inchers or less. I'd check with a 6ft or larger straight edge to be sure. I know many home builders down here install the tiles right over the slab but I'm not sure it they treat the slab with anything to make the adhesive bond better. Maybe some muriatic acid to roughen it up a bit. Check what HD or Lowe's suggest?

Husker, Why don't you ask an admin to move this thread to the dedicated home theater build forum? You will get more feedback over there.
post #60 of 625
Thread Starter 
I'll have tons of acoustic/speaker/receiver etc questions soon after the tiling is done....so which forum would be better? Since I have the kitchenette/bar/bathroom in the rear of the room? Probably general area?

The floor is already painted so maybe that will help a bit with binding, but I'll go ask around.

Looking at 18/12 inch tile...2 tile design...maybe 3.

Will look into moving thread.
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