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I Cannot Wait! - Page 2

post #31 of 43
Thread Starter 
Well, moving sloooooowly now that spring is here. Damn, golf keeps on getting in the way. :

Just wanted to check with everyone here to make sure what I am doing is efficient and correct. The instructions that came with the clips from The Sound Proofing Company didn't really cover my instal situation, although I think it is OK.

I left a 1 inch gap between the beam and wall frame, and a few inches between the walls themselves.



Not sure how I will handle the lally columns, but I'm sure I can work around it.

post #32 of 43
Looks good!i
post #33 of 43
Thread Starter 
Thank you Ted, greatly appreciated! BTW, The Soundproofing Company are great to work with. Many many thanks. I look forward to purchasing everything else I need from them.

I know everyone is patiently waiting for an update given all of the action on this post lately Well, I am 100% sure that I am 90% finished framing the basement. Half the issue is that I don't have a truck or a trailer at the moment, so picking up 10 two bys at a time is not efficient. On the other hand, if I pick up 30, they'll warp before I get a chance to use them.

I am, however, finished framing the theater, sans the soffitt. I'll get to those once I finish wiring and install my RSIC and hat channel. Framing along the length of the theater is double wall construction, and staggered stud at the back of theater.



The door created a challenge in that I don't have enough room under the beam for adequate sound isolation, so I chose to frame the door inside the theater. I have a specific design in mind that will make it look good.



The soffit will be another challenge, as there is a 3 inch gap between the top of the wall and bottom of the HVAC, but I want only a 1 inch in order to save headroom. I have an idea on how to accomplish this, but I need to get the first layer of OSB on the wall first.

Finally, I think I HVA figured out. I plan to just draw air into the room from the rest of the basement and then return to another part of the basement. Not sure I will tap into the furnace or not.

I just need to frame the hallway outside the theater, and frame where the rack will go. I think I will DIY for the rack. I'll have to revisit the DIY Rack thread to get a better idea at what I am up against.

Well, that is it for now. Have a great weekend everyone! I know I will.
post #34 of 43
Thread Starter 
Well, after a summer of golf, and a fall of building the deck, I am now allowed to continue to work on the HT. Of course, I really didn't need to play golf, but I did need to build the deck.

It only took me a week to figure out where I left off, and I am rather ashamed of my progress, but I promise to make good headway this winter.

Framing is pretty much done, except for where the rack will be located. I am doing a DIY rack out of Baltic Birch Ply, so we'll see how that goes, and I should build that before I frame just to be sure of the dimensions.

Other than that, just started to wire the rest of the basement. I do need to follow our local electrical code, so that means I will be building backer boxes for my outlets inside the theater.

With that, I am finalizing my calculation for GG and clips. Isolation clips on the 2 exterior walls and ceiling only. The other 2 were framed using the IB-3 clips, and staggered (at the back of the HT) and double wall along the length.

Anyway, thanks for visiting!
post #35 of 43
Thread Starter 
Ok, after thinking I was done with framing, I posted a question regarding a decoupled wall along the exterior. The wall was secured to the joist and concrete wall, but not touching the floor. The advise I recieve from fotto, Ted White, Stockmonkey and Carborandum was to secure that wall using IB-3 clips because it looked like it wasn't quite decoupled. I am almost done, and it wasn't as hard as I originally thought, but I do need to order a few more clips, and I'll do that when I order by RSIC and GG.

However, after securing the wall, I don't quite have the 1" clearance between the joist and framed wall (more like around 3/4"). Do you think this will be a problem?





Also, my theater seat came in recently. It's vintage baby (1963 on the tag)!!!



I was thinking of re-uphostering it, but not sure now. If I can find a few more, I may do that. I have some time and am looking on craiglist. It was a hand-me-down, and in quite excellent condition. I don't think my grandparents ever sat in it!
post #36 of 43
Niice chair

What is that yellow insulation doing in the wall?
post #37 of 43
Thread Starter 
The yellow stuff is just there so it is not in the way right now. At some point (in our other house), I was going to make accoustic panels. Obviously that did not work out. and I needed to get it out of the way. Not to worry, I will find a good home for it eventually.
post #38 of 43
If there's less than an inch of clearance, that's fine. The point is to have a gap there
post #39 of 43
Your framing looks really nice. Very clean work. I walled over my windows in my theater and am really glad I did not try to work around them. My windows were below grade so they cant really be seen from outside unless you look down into the window well. I also took the lock off mine and screwed it in from the outside so I could remove them from the outside if they should break.
post #40 of 43
Thread Starter 
Thanks StockMonkey2000.

For the window, I plan on making a square access panel of sort (double MDF/GG) and screw it through the DW/GG/OSB to the 2 by framing. The actual hole for the window will be smaller than that of the window frame itself. This way, if I ever need to get access, I should be able to. I hope it works out. I can always revert to plan B, and do what you did...
post #41 of 43
Thread Starter 
Just thinking of how I am going to run electrical and all of my A/V cable.

I need to follow code, so I will be installing outlets at the appropriate places throughout the room. I think I'll putty pad the metal boxes for my single gang, and make some backer boxes for my multi-gang boxes that are room facing. I really don't like the idea of having a number of holes in my DD room, but I will be doing the same for my lights. I only plan on having columns for my speakers, so I won't have enough for outlet placement within them.

However, I wanted to check with my logic in running all of my cable for the speakers/projector/Cat6 etc. I was thinking that I would have most of my smurf tubing enter the room at one or two locations only. First will be where the riser meets the side wall. This way, I can run my conduit under my riser to my columns and projector. The second will be where my wall meets the stage. This way I can run conduit under the stage to my subs/speakers, and have the wall plate mounted to the stage itself rather than in the wall. I'll probably make some sort of backer box for these entry points.

People have done all kinds of different methods, so I hope this make sense. As you can tell, not so busy at w~#* this week.
post #42 of 43
Thread Starter 
Hello Hello!

Man, for a guy who cannot wait to get his theater done, I sure am slow. With a new little guy (now 4 months old), a number of side projects like building a deck, I have little progress. But, I do have some progress. I have been away from AVS, but I should check in more often to see what others are doing as well.

At any rate, here is where I am. Framing is done and electrical is almost there. I had a new sub-panel installed, and have just a few more electrical items to take care of, like removing the builders electrical and lights that came with the house. I also installed 3 volume controls upstairs for the ceiling speakers, and moved all my cable/internet/phone/speaker wires from the original location to my AV closet. Originally, I had everything just dumped by the electrical panel, but I wanted everything in one place in the closet. It was a lot of work, but worth it, IMO.

Closet1-7-1-2012.jpg

I have all of the low voltage wiring in, as well as conduit. I ran two 2” conduits from my AV closet to where the projector will be, as well as two ¾” conduits from my AV closet to the front of the theater, and one ¾” conduit from the projector to the front of the theater. I think this should be enough. All of my speaker wires, coax for the subs, and cat5e have been wired.

Conduit2-7-1-2012.jpg
Conduit3-7-1-2012.jpg

While plumbing the bathroom, I installed a frost-free hydrant. This allows me to remove the shut off valve for the water in the back yard, which would have been at the front of the theater. In addition, I also ran Pex to my sump, so that I can install a backup at some point.

Onto the HVAC. Started to install my 8” supply, which will bring air in from the basement, along the ceiling, down into the soffit with flexible duct. As you can see, I made a 9x13.5 box from which I attached my duct.

Supply1-7-1-2012.jpg

The one issue I am having is with the duct in the ceiling joists. It is going to be tight, since I also want a 3” pot light there as well. With the wiring, the duct and gas line, not sure if this is viable or not, especially with my pot light so close to the gas line. I guess I may need to go with LED in-contact lights, and just wrap with insulation.

Supply2-7-1-2012.jpg

Finally, built a rack out of ¾ plywood, pocket screws, and standard shelf brackets. I wanted a rack feel, so I planed down some pine I had to the exact thickness of the brackets, and made little rabbits along each side so that the bracket locks in and doesn’t slip when I screw them in place.

Rack1-7-1-2012.jpg
Rack2-7-1-2012.jpg

For those following, I will try and post more regular updates.

Take care.
post #43 of 43
Thread Starter 
Hello -

Well, I need some help and advice. I am now second guessing my HVAC!

First the supply. I originally wanted to have an 8" supply pull air in from accross the hall near floor, up the wall, through the joist to the soffit and about a 10' run before exiting ino the theater. This is all based on sound proofing HVAC that Soundproofing Company suggests. I am OK with this, although it was tough getting the duct in the joist cavity, while insulating to avoid some wires located in the same space. The issue is the length of the run. In total, I am looking at around 45. Is this too much?

Second. I have 6'6"x2'10"x2'6" of closet space dedicated for a dead vent. The problem is that the DV is right under the house return trunc, and the duct into the room is right under that (it will be DD/GG for sound, and will be a soffit), with no room to move. I don't mind keeping the return there, but a 10" or 12" opening for the return seems pretty extreme. Am I over doing this? Also, do I need to put a grill or linear diffuser or can I just pull air through a fabric wall (I plan on fabric walls).

Third, I was hoping to tie my projector box ventalation to my return dead vent. I will not be able to accomplish this as it is right now, and the best I can do right now is pull the air from the box and deposit close to where the return is.

I need some input to make sure I am doing the right thing. Is it possible to have 2 separate chambers for a dead vent, one for the supply and one for the return in my space that I have (6'6"x2'10"x2'6")? My thought was that I could build a false wall at the rear of the theater, run my supply from the DV to the other side of the theater (behind the wall) and then up the wall and down the soffit, saving maybe 10'. Also, I could then bring my project box vent and tie into my return. If I do this, then I obviously loose about a foot of riser space, shrinking from around 8'6" to 7'6" before DW etc.

I hope that makes sense. You can see the return and where my DV will be placed. I have changed a little since then (this is an older pic), and my DV will now be outside the room in the same space.

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