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Viewsonic Pro8200 -- it exists. - Page 35

post #1021 of 1081
hi guys,

i just got this projector today and i have 2 problems. first one is when i switch on my projector, i realized the screen is not aligned properly. the top part is not straight. the dimension is just out. i cannot find any settings for that. you can refer to the pic here:




the left is slightly shorter than the left.


second problem is during the movie, dark scene become so dark that i barely can see anything. i know that i have to adjust it to RGB but when i click the RGB, i was ask to set the numbers?

My player is Xtreamer Prodigy and i don't think there is any options to change to RGB on the video


Please help
post #1022 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by heart strings View Post

hi guys,

i just got this projector today and i have 2 problems. first one is when i switch on my projector, i realized the screen is not aligned properly. the top part is not straight. the dimension is just out. i cannot find any settings for that. you can refer to the pic here:




the left is slightly shorter than the left.


second problem is during the movie, dark scene become so dark that i barely can see anything. i know that i have to adjust it to RGB but when i click the RGB, i was ask to set the numbers?

My player is Xtreamer Prodigy and i don't think there is any options to change to RGB on the video


Please help

Welcome to the pro8200 forum room, have fun while you are here.
Now did you buy your PJ new or used? I would suggest you read through maybe 10-20 pages of the latest posts and look at the pro8200 calibration thread.
Sounds like this is your first PJ, correct me if I'm wrong.
You are gonna have to do some research, like most of us here.
There is setting on PJ that auto corrects for this, look for it or read the manual.
The PJ has to be level to screen, if the PJ is tilted up to one side the picture will be tilted up to one side. smile.gif
As to picture too dark, that is "newbie" question we get a lot, you have to research it, because the answer as been given many times. The over 1,000 posts were by people , just like you, and when they got the PJ, didn't want to read the other posts, so, we repeat same stuff over and over and over.
There could be "new" stuff to deal with, but so far, what you wrote is basic "newbie stuff".
If after reading 20 pages of stuff, and reading through the manual you still have a problem, we are all happy to help you out. So ask questions, but do a little reading and learn from those that bought this awesome PJ before you did. OK? smile.gif
post #1023 of 1081
Hi there,

Thanks for the speedy reply and yes, this is my first projector! Bought it new from Amazon 2 weeks ago and it just arrived today. I did a lot of research before i decide on this model and i am trying to avoid the buyer's remorse now. LOL

For the alignment thingy, i know it has to do with keystone and i have set it to on and off and it's still the same. I have read the first few and the last few pages on this thread and i will read all the post on this thread again tonight. hopefully i am able to get some tips n tricks on using this projector. anyway, you guys are awesome cause i can see that every question is replied if not, given guidelines

i will be right back here in a day or two to give some feedback after some trial and error after i test this projector again
post #1024 of 1081
yeah, it took me a few days to get used to it. Also when I used a wall as screen , it just looked ok. When my store bought 100 inch widescreen screen came and when all the lights in the room were off, using a good movie or xbox game, it looked awesome. I'm thinking maybe read the stuff from january of this year to now, last 5 months, since you have brand new PJ. Getting all the settings figured out and checking all the equipment settings takes a while.


As to blacks and all that, lots of settings to figure out. We had one guy return the pro8200 because bad blacks, got a different brand model PJ, had same problem, found out it was not the PJ that caused the problem. So, relax and give it 48 hours before you figure out if you should have buyer's remorse. I'm very happy with my PJ. If the blacks really sucked none of us would have kept it. Now, the black levels of the 3,000 dollar PJ's and above are better, but we are talking of black levels in this price under 1,000 price range.
post #1025 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by heart strings View Post

the left is slightly shorter than the left.
Please help

First, make sure the projector is not only level, but that it is placed dead center in front of the middle of your "screen," not projecting from from an angle slightly to the left or right.
post #1026 of 1081
I had huge issues with bad blacks aka "Black Crush" anything that is supposed to be dark (like most of the movie Brave) just show up as black with zero detail. basically the blacks get crushed together due to the different ways color space is handled. ON a computer black is value 0 and white is value 255, on tv screens it's 13 for black and 235 for white... and this projector is picky about it's source. I dont fully understand it myself... this seems to be this projectors major downside... that only effects some of us?

I have terrible black crush problems on my motorola cable box, kinds sucks... but I watch movies on blueray anyways... which I had to buy a new blu-ray player to fix the same black issues... and once you get it calibrated (it's not super easy) and get a compatible signal the projector is amazing, keep at it and you will be rewarded... I have had many people over to watch movies and play Xbox and they all love it.

I will echo others here... the hight difference from one side to another is due to the screen (wall) not being directly in front of the projector, you have to projector turned a bit.... if thats not the issue then it would be a first!

also, read the last 20 or so pages, if you go too far back you will learn about the old firmware (which you dont have) basically if the buttons on your remote are clear, and light up blue, then you have a modern firmware (the factory change happened at the same time)
post #1027 of 1081
I am thinking of purchasing this PJ. Initially I was going to buy a Panny AR100u, but the wife is on me about budget. The good thing about this PJ is I wouldn't have to buy an AVR or speakers to use it. I've read through most of the posts but still had a few questions:

1) The room I will be using it in is 19x15 with 19' ceilings. I would have a throw distance of about 17'. According to this calculator I would need around 130" 1.0 gain screen to get an image brightness of 16 fl (I saw on some other thread this was a good number to shoot for). Does anyone else have a throw distance of nearly 17'? What size screen do you use?

2) With 19' ceilings I shouldn't have any issue as far as placement with a throw distance of 17' correct? The calculator has a -22" next to the image of the PJ but I'm not real sure what that means. I've read a lot of the posts talking about keystones, offsets, etc. Don't have a good grasp of how all that works.
post #1028 of 1081
You will have enough lumens with a 1.0 gain screen at 130" with this projector, especially in LAMP HIGH. The offset for a 130" screen is 21.8 inches, which means the center of the projector's lens will need to be mounted about 22" above the top of the screen's viewable surface. 17 feet back is near the center of this projector's mounting range, though if you want to increase the contrast slightly and the sharpness, then I would place it back a bit more closer to 20 feet back.

www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com and select Viewsonic Pro 8200 if you want to see the TRUE brightness that the projector gives.All you have to do is set your ceiling height, the screen to floor distance, and the screen size. The rest is automatically calculated. The PJC calculator is very rough on calculations for lumens, and mine will show you the lumens for every single PJ mode.

You might also consider the Acer h6500bd if you can find a deal on it, because the Viewsonic has a pixel mapping issue (though not sure if the Acer does as well). Basically the pixel mapping issue affects sharpness with HTPC text, but it's not that bad.
post #1029 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyFTwedge View Post

The good thing about this PJ is I wouldn't have to buy an AVR or speakers to use it.

Really? I guess you're not much of a 'sound' man. Seriously, sound is the other half of the big screen equation. One without the other makes no sense.

Quote:
10W Stereo speakers. Unlike every other projector in this price range, the Pro8200 has stereo speakers at ten watts each, making for a nice on-board sound system when you need it. The speakers are small and they sound small, with a certain rattling, tinny character when driven too hard or too loudly. But when you're bringing the projector over to a friend's house and just want something that you can hear, the on-board speakers definitely fit the bill. They outpace the competition in this price bracket, most of which have three- to five-watt mono speakers if they have any audio at all.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/viewsonic_pro8200_home_theater_projector_review.htm?page=Advantages-and-Limitations
post #1030 of 1081
I think the speakers are atrocious sounding and terrible, but maybe that's just me. They sound as bad or worse than a cheap clock radio to my ears. I find them not useful, though you can find individually powered speakers online and connect them to this projector's output, so you don't need an audio system either way (you can still connect certain types of speakers directly to the PJ).
post #1031 of 1081
Good to know about speakers. I'll probably end up using some cheap speakers at first and get an AVR with better speakers down the road.

I really just want a projector for when football starts up and since my budget was slashed by my better half, the pro8200 seemed like the best bang for buck under $1000. Also considering Benq w1070 and now Acer h6500bd (thanks to coderguy). Don't really care about 3D though. The pro8200 lumens will probably work best in my living room environment too.

Sounds like a lot of people are using HC grey screens in ambient light rooms as well. Elite Screens HC CineGrey a good option?
post #1032 of 1081
The Benq w1070 and Viewsonic are close to the same brightness. Actually the Benq w1070 is slightly brighter and I need to correct that in my calculator (had wrong numbers before for w1070). The Acer h6500bd would be my last pick out of all of these most likely, unless you can get it for a steal. I think it is slightly over-priced for what it delivers, but I mentioned it before just to let you know it existed.

There are four primary reasons I push the Benq w1070 over the others in this price range:

1) It has better contrast
2) It is one of the brightest best modes there is
3) It has the most accurate color uncalibrated of any projector EVER under $2500, ever!
This projector BARELY even needs calibrating, heck most rookies would not even see much difference between some calibrated and uncalibrated Benq w1070's, it really is that close, I've seen it for myself.

Don't under-estimate # 3, the fact is most people in this price range don't want to pay a calibrator and having a projector so close to spec OOTB is incredible. Of course this will drift after some age on the lamp, but still it looks very accurate at first in general.

4) It's sharper than the Viewsonic
5) It has a faster color wheel, though the VS color wheel is better than most others in this price range it still isn't as fast as the Benq's.
6) It has a little bit of lens shift which no other DLP projector in this price range does (other than the Acer h9500bd or Epson 8350 or similar LCD's).
This makes it easier to install especially if you make a slight mistake in positioning the mount.

The w1070 really is ABOVE it's price class, it could have easily been released at $1,500 instead of $999. OK, so that's SIX reasons, see there are so many reasons that it is hard to even keep it down. The Benq really does have numerous advantages over others in its price class.

The Viewsonic is also still a great projector though. The differences you will see in most videos between the Pro8200 and Benq w1070 are minimal, but the w1070 is sharper in HTPC text anyways.
Edited by coderguy - 6/5/13 at 12:53pm
post #1033 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyFTwedge View Post

Good to know about speakers. I'll probably end up using some cheap speakers at first and get an AVR with better speakers down the road.

I really just want a projector for when football starts up and since my budget was slashed by my better half, the pro8200 seemed like the best bang for buck under $1000. Also considering Benq w1070 and now Acer h6500bd (thanks to coderguy). Don't really care about 3D though. The pro8200 lumens will probably work best in my living room environment too.

Sounds like a lot of people are using HC grey screens in ambient light rooms as well. Elite Screens HC CineGrey a good option?

Hopefully now that you narrowed it down to a few PJ's you can see if a "sale" shows up and you can grab it, since you researched the models you are interested in. I use the pro8200 with computer speakers , since the pro8200 has usb port I plug the computer speakers into the usb port and use one of the audio out's on pro8200, works for me. The built in speakers are good in a pinch and for portable use, and I bring PC speakers with me. It sort of depends on the pc and audio volume controls on PC too for how loud the pro8200 sound is, since in vlc you can increase volume and adjust stuff too. I like the pro8200 for gaming since it has under 20ms gaming lag, which is very good for battlefield3/COD type games.
As to screens, I guess some in the room can share what they like, maybe read through the thread too to get a feel for some screens the guys got and if they liked them, many pages of users talking about screens, settings, etc, good resourse.
Other things to think about is the 3 year warranty of NEW pro8200 because if the benq w1070 broke after 1 year you would be out of luck unless you pick up extended warranty for it. (which I would recommend since we are talking very expensive to fix labor/parts).
Some of us did pick up the pro8200 for 650-680 dollars on sale which is cheap compared to the more expensive models and we are not talking too much difference between the 1000-1200 dollar models, maybe 10 percent improvement depending on what you are watching. I do use my pro8200 for pc surfing at times and it looks good to me, mostly I use it for football games, xbox gaming, movies and tv shows, with some surfing. The long bulb life of pro8200 is pretty good with low replacement costs. Coderguy got a refurb a few years ago for a super low price and early production model. Over the last couple of years people have said that new firmwares and maybe better enhancements in production make it a good cheap PJ. Look at benq w1070 thread and reviews on amazon and pro8200 user reviews. I don't think if you get the pro8200 or benq w1070(with extended warranty) you will go wrong for gaming/movies/tv show type stuff and light surfing. Keep researching.
post #1034 of 1081
Where do y'all (yes I'm from Texas) recommend purchasing projectors? Projector People does not have the pro8200 on their website. BenQ W1070 is on sale for $999 on PP. I was going to buy the AR100u at CostCo for the 90 day money back guarantee. Amazon has pro8200 for $723.00. How do I make sure I get the most up-to-date model?
post #1035 of 1081
Hi, I'm planning on an upgradee from this PJ to the BenQ W1070, is it a noticeable improvement? does the BQ has 1:1 pixel mapping? its' very important to me since I use it mainly with my HTPC, bluray and 1080p games
post #1036 of 1081
Yes, it has 1:1 pixel mapping. Is it an improvement, well yes a bit, but it's not going to be night and day for most games unless there are fine details and depends how close you sit to the screen. For movies it has better contrast in dark scenes (about double), so in that sense it's a bit better. It has more accurate color OOTB. Though the w1070 in my opinion is still below the sweet spot in native contrast, the sweet spot being somewhere around 4000:1 to 10,000:1 (and the more the merrier). It has less RBE (all the advantages I just posted earlier).

The Pro8200 in most mounting spots after a calibration does 1,000:1 to 1,500:1 native contrast (but can do 2000:1+ depending how you mount it and calibrate), whereas the Benq w1070 does 2,000:1 to 3,000:1. The Mitsubishi hc4000 on the other hand does 3,500:1 to 4,000:1 on/off but only if placed at the very farthest back for the given zoom (exactly at farthest throw). If you are not mounting a projector at farthest throw, then the Benq w1070 has a semi-significant advantage in dark scenes and will be one of the highest native contrast DLP projectors.

The Acer 9500bd however has even higher contrast since it has an IRIS, but the IRIS can be bouncy. Another projector with good contrast is the Sharp xvz-30000, but then that is getting up there near $2k.

Given how cheap the Acer 9500bd is right now it is a very good deal as well (but it also has a known pixel mapping issue that I think was fixed in later versions), so you have to be careful.

Hope this helps...
post #1037 of 1081
Yes it helped, thanks Coderguy!

Any imprvement in contrast is nice since i'm coming from a 2012 ST-50 panasonic plasma (it isn't even a contest with the Viewsonic), and since most of what I use is 1080P (a lot of text reading, bluray, 1080p games), 1:1 is a must at least for me (some people dont see the difference since the mapping error isn't so bad but having the plasma side by side its like night and day in sharpness), and i've just seen RBE once in the VS in hundreds of hours of use so its not an issue.

Yes I have read about the Acer H9500 and Benq W7000 having better contrast but the 1:1 mapping issue MAY be still present and that's a risk I'd rather not take.

Overall I'm really happy with the Pro 8200, 50" vs 110" is an amazing difference and the colors and image pop is amazing!

PS: So you mean the further i mount the PJ (and less zoom I use), the better the contrast I will get? IF so I have a few feet back I can move the Viewsonic so I use minimum zoom possible.

Thanks and good night!
post #1038 of 1081
OK, so I've narrowed it down to pro8200 or w1070. I'm not sure the w1070 would work in my situation however. I have a minimum throw distance of 17' in my living room. The w1070 would require WAY too big a screen from that distance.

I could move upstairs to my game room (see pics below) to accommodate the w1070 , but I'm worried about the light colored walls and white ceiling. In the living room I have 19' ceilings and no side walls near the screen so light reflection wouldn't be an issue. The game room is 14x18 with 9' ceilings. My only options for screen placement would be on the wall behind the TV sitting on the ground. That wall is only 91" wide so it would limit screen size. Throw distance would be a max of 12'. My other option would be to put a pull down screen in front of the double arches with a max throw distance of 16'.

I prefer the w1070 and the living room, but not sure they fit well. So most likely its the pro8200 in the living room or the w1070 in the game room. Tough decision.

post #1039 of 1081
At 3359 hours on the lamp, I'm now now getting fairly consistent flickering in ECO mode, not just in the top right corner, but it has now spread throughout the screen. It's not absolutely horrible, but it is enough of an annoying distraction that I now mostly always turn ECO mode off, which clears the problem up completely. Two things, though: it's slightly noisier and I wonder how this will affect long-term lamp life. Brightness-wise, at this point I'd say ECO mode off is just about as bright as ECO mode on was out of the box, so after all those lamp hours we're now still par for the course.
post #1040 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by plplplpl View Post

At 3359 hours on the lamp, I'm now now getting fairly consistent flickering in ECO mode, not just in the top right corner, but it has now spread throughout the screen. It's not absolutely horrible, but it is enough of an annoying distraction that I now mostly always turn ECO mode off, which clears the problem up completely. Two things, though: it's slightly noisier and I wonder how this will affect long-term lamp life. Brightness-wise, at this point I'd say ECO mode off is just about as bright as ECO mode on was out of the box, so after all those lamp hours we're now still par for the course.

Those are not bad hours, congrats, you are our longest hour poster so far, I think last time I remember, Coderguy was at about 3,000 hours, I'm not sure he still using his pro8200 anymore, but if he still is, maybe he can post his new high hour number.
When I cycle through the different user settings and bright room settings, it changes from eco mode to regular mode (some of our new members might not know that and think cycleing the settings will keep the PJ at eco mode, not true), so you probably have a combined total of those 3300 hours in some ratio. If the PJ was on high setting the hours would be 4,000. And if on eco the whole time 6,000. Those are estimates and each bulb will be different. Keep us informed on hours. So you are saying the brightness at 3300 hours on HIGH is about the brightness of ECO when you first bought it, that is pretty bright.
Also, let us know where you get your next bulb from and price, and maybe ask the guys where you should buy it from. Hopefully you will get many more hours on the bulb. I'm at 450 hours after 1 1/2 years. smile.gif
post #1041 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by plplplpl View Post

At 3359 hours on the lamp, I'm now now getting fairly consistent flickering in ECO mode, not just in the top right corner, but it has now spread throughout the screen. It's not absolutely horrible, but it is enough of an annoying distraction that I now mostly always turn ECO mode off, which clears the problem up completely. Two things, though: it's slightly noisier and I wonder how this will affect long-term lamp life. Brightness-wise, at this point I'd say ECO mode off is just about as bright as ECO mode on was out of the box, so after all those lamp hours we're now still par for the course.

If you see flickering, it's sometimes a sign that the lamp could go KABLOEEY at any time (though not always). But I might consider replacing the lamp before it cracks or explodes.
post #1042 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadcert01 View Post

I think they are referring to 3D as being possible if this add on is purchased:


VP3D1 - a processor that can take 3D TV, film and gaming content into a format that can be displayed natively on its 3D projector range.


Techradar have the press release...


Can't post the link as apparently i'm a possible spammer until I have made 3 posts!!


3D but if my knowledge of HDMI is correct only @ 1080i as 1.3 compliant connectors on the Pro8200?


I might be interested as 3d would look much better at 100in than 47in



Anyone else tempted?
Does anyone know if the VP3D1 works with the 8200? I've found it for as low as $175, and I'd like to upgrayyed to 3D if possible.
post #1043 of 1081
I was also thinking the flickering could be a warning sign the bulb is about to blow, but there's nary a sign of it when not in ECO mode. I was aware of the Pro8200's quirky habit of losing ECO mode when cycling through settings, so I was careful make sure it was always in ECO mode up until now. Now that I'm in regular mode, no more flickering.

The last time I got a replacement lamp, for my InFocus X10, was at this place, and I was pretty satisfied with the price and the quality. Following what I thought was best practice at the time, I had ordered the spare lamp almost immediately after getting the projector, and rather than having it sit on a shelf until needed while its warranty ticked away and expired, I installed it right away. The projector was put out of commission, due to the posterization problem that plagues the X10s, before the replacement lamp had a chance to die. In fact, it's still good; I just don't use the projector anymore. That's kind of why this time, I thought I'd just use the Pro8200 to the extent of its very good lamp warranty and see how that goes.

I guess it comes down to Clint Eastwood's famous question.
post #1044 of 1081
plplplpl
Can you tell us how long you have owned your pro8200 and how many hours a day or week you have been using it. I'm not sure you have any warranty on your bulb, if you got 3 year warranty it would be for the PJ not bulb, I think 1 year on bulb but I think it stops if you put 500 hours on it, I'm not sure about whether it's 500 hours or more, just going by memory. So once you go past 500 hours , no more warranty on bulb, I wasn't sure what you meant by bulb warranty. The 6,000 hours is just estimate and in no way means you will actually get 6,000 hours. We are still trying to find out from guys like you if we can reach that 6,000 hour number. I only have less than 500 hours after 1 1/2 years, so not not gonna win the race to the 6,000 hour goal.

Also for the other guy, any 3d device will not work, because the pro8200 is not 3d ready.
post #1045 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgtaa View Post

Also for the other guy, any 3d device will not work, because the pro8200 is not 3d ready.

I didn't think it was but I've read several posts here and elsewhere claiming it is. This was from a few days ago:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

Hi to the "land down under"!

You should not buy those cheap Chinese pjs. You'll just get a cheap toy. Your experience with audio in that regard isn't the same with the pj's for the most part. VIewsonic Pro8200 DLP 3D Ready, around $600-$700 and comes with a 3 yr warranty, next step up, Benq 1070 DLP Full 3D, sometimes on sale for around $800-$900. Epson 8350 LCD in the same price range, but is 2d only.
.
post #1046 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgtaa View Post

plplplpl
Can you tell us how long you have owned your pro8200 and how many hours a day or week you have been using it. I'm not sure you have any warranty on your bulb, if you got 3 year warranty it would be for the PJ not bulb, I think 1 year on bulb but I think it stops if you put 500 hours on it, I'm not sure about whether it's 500 hours or more, just going by memory. So once you go past 500 hours , no more warranty on bulb, I wasn't sure what you meant by bulb warranty. The 6,000 hours is just estimate and in no way means you will actually get 6,000 hours. We are still trying to find out from guys like you if we can reach that 6,000 hour number. I only have less than 500 hours after 1 1/2 years, so not not gonna win the race to the 6,000 hour goal.

I think you're right about the warranty; it's three years on the projector, one year on the lamp.

I got my Pro8200 5/27/2012 so I guess that means my lamp warranty has just expired. As you can tell by the length of ownership/lamp hours ratio, my HTPC-centric digital lifestyle involves using the projector many, many hours a day, for just about everything except serious, down-to-brass-tacks office-type work. Gotta say, so far the Pro8200 is the projector I've been the happiest with, and I've been using them at home ever since I brought a big, ol' Sanyo LCD back from Japan in the early '90s.
post #1047 of 1081
The Pro8200 is built like a tank, don't ask me how I know smile.gif
post #1048 of 1081
So if any of you were to upgrade from the 8200 to a new model with 3D, what would be your suggestions? I'm trying to stay under 1k and I'm leaning towards the Optoma HD25 right now...
post #1049 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet34 View Post

So if any of you were to upgrade from the 8200 to a new model with 3D, what would be your suggestions? I'm trying to stay under 1k and I'm leaning towards the Optoma HD25 right now...

This is a thread for the viewsonic pro8200, mostly users and people that are thinking of buying a PJ like this, not sure that I would go into all the other PJ threads that were 2D and ask them what 3D PJ they would buy.

The main selling points for the pro8200 still hold true, 3 year warranty, 2,000 lumens, 6,000 hours on Eco mode, cheap bulb replacement cost, good color picture, "built like a tank" smile.gif. Plenty of inputs/outputs, good cross over PJ for school, business, home use. 20 watts internal speakers (10x2). It's a cheap 1080p 2d PJ, once you get to 1,000 dollars and above other 3d models are available, but you might have to spend 200 dollars for extended warranty since some of them only come with 1 year warranty. If you can find a NEW pro8200 on sale around 650-700 dollars or less, put it on the list of models to research.
post #1050 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgtaa View Post

This is a thread for the viewsonic pro8200, mostly users and people that are thinking of buying a PJ like this, not sure that I would go into all the other PJ threads that were 2D and ask them what 3D PJ they would buy.

The main selling points for the pro8200 still hold true, 3 year warranty, 2,000 lumens, 6,000 hours on Eco mode, cheap bulb replacement cost, good color picture, "built like a tank" smile.gif. Plenty of inputs/outputs, good cross over PJ for school, business, home use. 20 watts internal speakers (10x2). It's a cheap 1080p 2d PJ, once you get to 1,000 dollars and above other 3d models are available, but you might have to spend 200 dollars for extended warranty since some of them only come with 1 year warranty. If you can find a NEW pro8200 on sale around 650-700 dollars or less, put it on the list of models to research.

uh, thanks? I own this projector. The Pro8200. I've owned it for almost 2 years and I've posted in this thread several times since buying it.

Since it doesn't do 3D and I'd like to upgrade, I'm asking other Pro8200 owners what they'd buy if they were upgrading to 3D.

Feel free to not reply since it doesn't sound like you're interested in a 3D upgrade.
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