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Viewsonic Pro8200 -- it exists. - Page 26

post #751 of 1081
1169 hours on the lamp here and still pumping out the lumens without a hitch.
post #752 of 1081
another quick question....is there some place online that i can calibrate the colors/hues/tints or a quick software download that will show a test page where i can calibrate them? thanks
post #753 of 1081
oh also ceiling mounts, how do i know which ones are compatible or not... thanks
post #754 of 1081
Long time lurker here folks! Pulled the trigger on this PJ a month now and I noticed something today as I was tinkering with some settings. Since I am using an HTPC and a TV tuner which both outputs 1080p, I changed the 'Aspect ratio' under 'Settings' from AUTO to 16:9. It surprised me that there is an overscan both with the TV tuner and HTPC when I changed it to 16:9. A 2.5% Overscan to be specific (accoding to the Shaprness & Overscan MP4 test file on the AVS Calibration disc) Do you guys have the same experience? The firmware version of my Pro8200 is 2.30-0.03 by the way. And while I'm at it, any tips on how to tweak this beast to its sharpest? Thanks!
post #755 of 1081
Yup, reproduced. 16:9 generates an unacceptable overscan on my HTPC setup as well for some reason. Therefore, I use Auto, which has no overscan. Problem solved.
post #756 of 1081
I use Auto in HTPC and I think 16:9 with my cable and bluray player, but could depend on your player or cable box. It gets rid of the overscan clipping on edges, but either mode still has a pixel mapping issue. Set the sharpness between 5-8, if you set it less than 5 (at least on my unit), then use 0, but don't use 1-4 because 1-4 is less sharp than 0.
post #757 of 1081
coderguy in the house! The reason why I was tinkering is exactly because of that pixel mapping thing. I would like to go 16:9 and see if it's any different from AUTO. Sharpness setting is currently at 5. Thanks for the tip! Will try to see if setting it to 6,7 or 8 makes noticeable difference. One more thing, I can't seem to hit that sweet perfect spot where both the left and right side of the projected image is equally as sharp. I mean, they're both sharp but it's just that one side is a tad softer. Unnoticeable in films and TV. I only notice it when viewing text files with small fonts. Talk about OCD!
post #758 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamkalabaw View Post

One more thing, I can't seem to hit that sweet perfect spot where both the left and right side of the projected image is equally as sharp.

Try focusing the projector about 1/4 or 1/3 out from the left side of the screen instead of focusing from the center and instead of focusing too close to the very left. Divide screen into 3 imaginary sections, where the first section meets the second section is where you want to be most focused. You can use the the menu to do this.
post #759 of 1081
for everyone trying to calibrate a new projector, these settings have worked best for me despite having the 150 hour BSE had. post #32 or second on page 2, cheers.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1390576/viewsonic-pro8200-calibrations/30
post #760 of 1081
thanks for the calibration link and info. i'm right around the same lamp time and i'm much more pleased with my colors now. i felt lost before(its my first projector) but this has me satisfied. thanks a bunch
post #761 of 1081
Just remember to play with the saturation control under the Video menu. Different firmwares appear to need different values for this, as well as the luminance cross-effects this setting. For instance, on one of my calibrations it was required I use saturation 38-42, but on another one where I corrected most of the gamut and luminance, it required I used ONLY 25 saturation. If you used Dark Room, I don't use that one so I am not sure what the best saturation is. I will calibrate dark room next time if I decide to buy a new lamp before selling my Pro8200. At the default saturation of 50 though, the color is way too blown out in most modes.

Once you get a trained eye you can get this one setting ballpark without the meter. I was within 15% or so even before I checked it with the meter. The color should look similar to a commercial movie theater in saturation if the movie theater has a new bright lamp (not on an older lamp, sometimes the commercial movie theater's image colors become poor as lamp ages). We are not really talking about pure saturation, I think the control affects luminance mostly (even though it calls it saturation), because the saturation is altered more by the CMS directly.
Edited by coderguy - 10/18/12 at 4:48am
post #762 of 1081
I'm planning to get the Pro8200. Is the carrying case/bag included in the package? What's the length of the included HDMI cable?
What is the current latest firmware version? Should I worry about getting the latest firmware? (I've read that older firmware has problem saving the settings).

I'll probably be projecting it into a 92" grey screen, at the closest distance possible (around 9.5 feet on a tabletop) due to placement issue in my living hall. With the eco mode, and with necessary brightness lowered, will it still be too bright?
post #763 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

I'm planning to get the Pro8200. Is the carrying case/bag included in the package? What's the length of the included HDMI cable?
What is the current latest firmware version? Should I worry about getting the latest firmware? (I've read that older firmware has problem saving the settings).
I'll probably be projecting it into a 92" grey screen, at the closest distance possible (around 9.5 feet on a tabletop) due to placement issue in my living hall. With the eco mode, and with necessary brightness lowered, will it still be too bright?

It does come with a very nice carrying case. The hdmi cable is 6 feet. You shouldn't have to worry about the firmware, it was only people that bought the unit 2 years ago, in very beginning that had problems. I think the firmware is at 2.30. Mine is from last year Nov 2011 and was 2.20. Even if you get super old firmware if you buy refurb/used , others say it's not that bad, you just turn it on and adjust one of two settings. But if you buy New you will have no problems.

Now, as long as you know when you first get the pro8200 , it is very bright, and if it really bothers you , you get a ND filter, but after time on the bulb , it gets better and better and better. Which is VERY NICE, because 6,000 hours bulb life. I rather have that then after 1,000 hours it gets too dim, if you know what I mean. I have around 350 hours on mine and it looks a ton better than when I first got it. Now it still looks good brand new, if you are in room with some light coming into it, but if in batcave, maybe get ND filter which is very cheap. Look through thread for which one to get. But I didn't need it.

Hard to tell if it would be too bright for you, if you know what I mean, everybody's eyes are different. It's 2,000 lumens, the upside also is , you can use it in many lighting conditions, which some other models you can't do that with. It also comes with vga cable. If you get hdmi cable , just make sure it's good quality because if not you could get horizontal lines, or blurry picture or other problems with picture.

Not sure about the distance to screen for 92 inch screen, Coderguy or one of the other guys can help you with that. I think I have around 92 inch screen image from about that distance, maybe refer to Coderguys links at bottom of one of his posts.

Are you in batcave or regular room? Is everything black, walls, ceiling, and all the windows covered in black, or in regular room, another way of putting it. I'm in regular room, with white walls, 4 windows, it's good for me during the day but at Night is when it rocks.
post #764 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgtaa View Post

It does come with a very nice carrying case. The hdmi cable is 6 feet. You shouldn't have to worry about the firmware, it was only people that bought the unit 2 years ago, in very beginning that had problems. I think the firmware is at 2.30. Mine is from last year Nov 2011 and was 2.20. Even if you get super old firmware if you buy refurb/used , others say it's not that bad, you just turn it on and adjust one of two settings. But if you buy New you will have no problems.
Now, as long as you know when you first get the pro8200 , it is very bright, and if it really bothers you , you get a ND filter, but after time on the bulb , it gets better and better and better. Which is VERY NICE, because 6,000 hours bulb life. I rather have that then after 1,000 hours it gets too dim, if you know what I mean. I have around 350 hours on mine and it looks a ton better than when I first got it. Now it still looks good brand new, if you are in room with some light coming into it, but if in batcave, maybe get ND filter which is very cheap. Look through thread for which one to get. But I didn't need it.
Hard to tell if it would be too bright for you, if you know what I mean, everybody's eyes are different. It's 2,000 lumens, the upside also is , you can use it in many lighting conditions, which some other models you can't do that with. It also comes with vga cable. If you get hdmi cable , just make sure it's good quality because if not you could get horizontal lines, or blurry picture or other problems with picture.
Not sure about the distance to screen for 92 inch screen, Coderguy or one of the other guys can help you with that. I think I have around 92 inch screen image from about that distance, maybe refer to Coderguys links at bottom of one of his posts.
Are you in batcave or regular room? Is everything black, walls, ceiling, and all the windows covered in black, or in regular room, another way of putting it. I'm in regular room, with white walls, 4 windows, it's good for me during the day but at Night is when it rocks.
Thanks for the feedback.

I don't have a batcave. This is how my living room looks like. It's opened with white everywhere. The curtain is thick & blocks lots of light in the day. I don't watch movie with light on. I hope the projection path goes nicely below the chandelier.

Where is the exhaust for the Pro8200? Any exhaust on the rear?

Any compatible ND filter to recommend?
Edited by Skylinestar - 10/20/12 at 11:00pm
post #765 of 1081
The exhaust would be on the right side, both sides have to have space to breath, so if you guys are sitting on the couch and the pro8200 is placed on the coffee table you should be ok. I wouldn't recommend someone sitting on the right side of PJ, unless in winter to keep them warm. smile.gif

We might have to get others to chime in, does he need a short throw PJ if he is gonna use the coffee table, I'm just not sure, I'll sit back and let the others come up with stuff to suggest. BSE53 came up with ND filter , you might have to look earlier in this thread and in the pro8200 calibration thread.

Now if you took down the chandelier it would open up more possibilities.smile.gif

p.s. Maybe the pro8200 would work, can you move back the sofa and the coffee table a little, not sure what is behind the sofa, do you have some play , you said 9 1/2 feet from coffee table to screen, right? Hard to judge distance from the pictures. You would just have to move the coffee table closer or further from screen and use zoom. Measure both distances, coffee table to screen and then try to move the coffee table back as far as you can and get distance, this can help in figuring it out.
Edited by rgtaa - 10/21/12 at 12:10am
post #766 of 1081
@ rgtaa Thanks.

There is enough space behind the couch. But shifting the couch aft will probably affect my 7.1 surround sound setup (side surrounds getting more forward). The max is probably another 1 foot aft.

I'll do more measurements.

Taking down the chandelier will be the last resort. It was installed just a few months ago.

Since the projector will be placed on the coffee table when used for movie, taken away and stowed when not used, will the handling cause premature failure to the projector?
post #767 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

@ rgtaa Thanks.
There is enough space behind the couch. But shifting the couch aft will probably affect my 7.1 surround sound setup (side surrounds getting more forward). The max is probably another 1 foot aft.
I'll do more measurements.
Taking down the chandelier will be the last resort. It was installed just a few months ago.
Since the projector will be placed on the coffee table when used for movie, taken away and stowed when not used, will the handling cause premature failure to the projector?

You should be fine, many of us are using the pro8200 in portable mode and have it packed away when not in use. I do it that way. Now I may keep it up for a week, or a day, then put it in closet with the portable screen.
When turning it off, in menu, just turn off the quick turn off mode, so the fan kicks in after turn off for about 30 seconds.
Coderguy I'm sure will look over your room setup and might come up with different PJ or placement we didn't think of, he has used more PJ's then me, so maybe lens shift PJ could work or short throw. If you have 9 1/2 feet he can give us what size screen that will produce.
post #768 of 1081
seriously thinking about getting this unit, never did install one before.

Question is I would like to pre-wire to it's placement (new construction)

room is 10x14 with a 10' ceiling, I would like to build a shelf on the back wall as high as I can.

the screen will be 100" 30" off the floor,

How can I find the proper height to mount it or doesn't it matter if I can adjust it anyway?

tks
post #769 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo2012 View Post

seriously thinking about getting this unit, never did install one before.
Question is I would like to pre-wire to it's placement (new construction)
room is 10x14 with a 10' ceiling, I would like to build a shelf on the back wall as high as I can.
the screen will be 100" 30" off the floor,
How can I find the proper height to mount it or doesn't it matter if I can adjust it anyway?
tks

http://www.projectorcentral.com/ViewSonic-Pro8200-projection-calculator-pro.htm
post #770 of 1081
ok,

good link, it shows 16.8" from the top of the screen,

I guess I can place it as far back as the wall due to fact it is within range.
post #771 of 1081
Don't forget that with a shelf mount that is virtually a ceiling mount, you will need to mount the projector upside down, so that the offset of the top of the screen to the lens is the correct direction. The viewsonic has a much higher offset than many other dlp projectors, which can be good or bad depending on your particular installation.

the projector calculator at projector central (or at Coderguy's website) will tell you the amount of offset of the top/bottom of the screen from the center of the lens.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo2012 View Post

ok,
good link, it shows 16.8" from the top of the screen,
I guess I can place it as far back as the wall due to fact it is within range.
post #772 of 1081
Sorry you lost me one that,

the wall is 10' tall, the screen will be 30" off floor and 30" down from the ceiling.

So I would think 16.8" center of lens to top of screen less ceiling of 30" would mean 13.2 inches below ceiling to get the 16.8, is that correct?

Now please can you explain why upside down?
post #773 of 1081
...
post #774 of 1081
But for all that to work, you will have to hang the projector upside down from the shelf.

The lens shift is fixed. The only way the projector will work right side up, is if the projector is 16" below the bottom of the screen, like on a coffee table.
post #775 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo2012 View Post

Sorry you lost me one that,
the wall is 10' tall, the screen will be 30" off floor and 30" down from the ceiling.
So I would think 16.8" center of lens to top of screen less ceiling of 30" would mean 13.2 inches below ceiling to get the 16.8, is that correct?
Now please can you explain why upside down?

For a visual explanation, look at the projector central calculator page you linked, and you will notice a setting: "Mount: Ceiling or Floor". Switch that setting back and forth and watch what happens smile.gif

FYI - in the settings of the projector, you can tell the projector which mode to display (floor mount or ceiling mount, and front or rear display) and the projector will flip/reverse the image as necessary.

However that setting does nothing to the physical light path going through the projector. The image will always be offset from the center of the lens, and the offset will ALWAYS be towards the top of the projector. So if you want the offset to be away from the ceiling, you will need to have the projector upside down, so that the top of the projector is towards the ground.

In your case, it sounds like you want the screen to be 30" below the ceiling. The projector calculator indicates that for a 100" screen, the image offset will be 16.8" above the center of the lens of the projector. So you will want the projector upside down, with the center of the lens 13.2" below the ceiling.

You can buy a basic projector mount, and install the on the bottom of the shelf. Depending on the mount, your shelf will probably end up being 6" higher (7.2" below the ceiling). Or you could drill 3 holes in the shelf matching the 3 holes on the projector, and get 3 LONG bolts that will fit into the mounting holes of the projector, and then tighten/loosen the bolts to center the image.

Mounting underneath a shelf is a common way to install the projector. Good luck!
post #776 of 1081
Thanks now I understand
post #777 of 1081
Does the Pro8200 support 16:9 & 2.35 aspect ratio switching without an anamorphic lens (to maintain CIH)?
post #778 of 1081
Nope, but you can do it with an expensive Lumagen or an HTPC.
post #779 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Nope, but you can do it with an expensive Lumagen or an HTPC.
The only budget & reliable projector that can do CIH without additional lens is HC4000, am I correct?
post #780 of 1081
As far as I know...
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