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Viewsonic Pro8200 -- it exists. - Page 27

post #781 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

Does the Pro8200 support 16:9 & 2.35 aspect ratio switching without an anamorphic lens (to maintain CIH)?

As Coderguy pointed it out , it could be done with HTPC (cheap PC or laptop). That is what I use to change aspect ratios for different media. VLC is popular media program I use that allows for simple changing to all the different aspect ratios. Also maybe play with graphic settings on HTPC. (Coderguy, is that what he means, being about to play media in different aspect ratios, or is he talking about something else).
post #782 of 1081
@Jimbo
I ran into this exact same problem when I received my 8200. I did all the calculations beforehand and thought that I had everything figured out.
Sure enough unboxed, set it up, and I was watching movies and playing ps3 on the ceiling. completely forgot to compensate for the offset.
You are left with just three options -
1. Place it in the same place you had intended, but upside down.
2. Place it in the same place and prop up the back end.
3. Ceiling-mount.
To be honest I have no idea how anybody could throw this on a coffee table and have this work out. In my set up with the screen at least three feet off the ground, th e projector would need to be almost on the ground.
I chose to prop up the back because I was hellbent on putting it on the special shelf that I had made for it. I also didnt want to spent a thousand bucks on a super long hdmi cable. Just make sure that you allow for enough free flowing air to keep it cool, especially on the right side for the exhaust.
post #783 of 1081
Forgot to post the pics.


As far as I can tell there are no heat related issues and this set up seems to do great with the airflow. I would love to hear the veterans of the forums opinions on the matter.
oh yeah...there is the matter of the keystone offset basically at max, but I didnt notice it at all once I got It all set up and sized to fit the screen that I made.
post #784 of 1081
Almost 3000 hours on this projector, here are my lamp statistics which represent about a 50% to 60% drop in brightness from a new lamp:

--Keep in mind this is at farthest throw (with projector at 17 feet back on a 106" screen), at closest throw (max zoom) you could easily add 20% or more to these numbers.

Calibrated Lumens (Approximate) @ 3000 Hours of Usage
350 Lumens in Lamp Low (Std Mode)
550 Lumens in High Lamp (Std Mode)

Uncalibrated Lumens in Lamp Low (Std Mode) @ 3000 Hours of Usage
450 Lumens in Lamp Low (Std Mode)
700 Lumens in Lamp High (Std Mode)

Maximum Lumens High Bright Mode with Medium Color Temp @ 3000 Hours of Usage
950 Maximum Uncalibrated Lumens in Brightest Mode (Farthest throw)

At Mid-Zoom / Throw (instead of farthest) we are still looking at over 1000 Lumens left on the lamp even after the lamp has aged at 3000 hours. That is pretty darn good, the lamp has lost only a little more than 50% of its brightness at 3000 hours. At about 1.3 gain on a 106" screen, I am still getting around 15 fL calibrated lumens, pretty good. I can make it another 1000-2000 hours before it is too DIM. Of course I put up with this projector being way too bright early on. It loses about 25% on the lamp the first 500-800 hours, then it loses it much slower after that.
Edited by coderguy - 11/4/12 at 1:07am
post #785 of 1081
Just purchased this projector off eBay for $600 which I thought was a steal since I was going to get one form Best Buy for $799 plus taxes. My question is, without reading thru all of the 27 pages, has watching sports gotten any better? I read thru a few of the first pages and the last pages and in the beginning I noticed people said sports/fast moving scenes didn't look too good so I'm hoping this isn't that big of an issue any more. I am by far no enthusiast but I do enjoy a good pictire etc. so I'm wondering if I would even be able to notice this problem anyway if it is infact still a problem.

Currently I run my TV and Samsung home theater in a box setup thru a HDMI switcher. I am hoping to keep my TV along with this projector so that I can play PS3 while watching football on the PJ or vice versa. Can I run a HDMI matrix (4 inputs 2 outputs with independent control of both outputs) with this projector? The matrix would allow me to select the output and control that with whatever input I want but I heard the Pro8200 has some troubles with HDMI cables so I'm wondering if this would be a problem? I appreciate the help guys.
post #786 of 1081
Did you buy it used for 600 or new. Newegg had sale last week for new pro8200 for 679 dollars. When NEW you get 3 year warranty, but if used you get NO warranty.

The problems in beginning of this thread was a few years ago. Firmware fixed everything. Some people that bought cheap hdmi cables reported horizontal lines or blurry picture. Once they bought good cables NO problems. I use my pro8200 to watch sports tv and play games on it and NO problems, everything looks good.

If it was me, I would not pick up used pro8200 from ebay for 600 dollars if I could buy NEW one with lastest firmware and 3 year warranty for 679. You might have to wait for sale, though. But that is me.
post #787 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgtaa View Post

As Coderguy pointed it out , it could be done with HTPC (cheap PC or laptop). That is what I use to change aspect ratios for different media. VLC is popular media program I use that allows for simple changing to all the different aspect ratios. Also maybe play with graphic settings on HTPC. (Coderguy, is that what he means, being about to play media in different aspect ratios, or is he talking about something else).

Copied from the manual:
Quote:
Aspect Ratio
Select how the picture fits on the screen:
􀂄 Auto : Scales an image proportionally to fit the projector's native resolution in its
horizontal or vertical width.
􀂄 4:3 : Scales an image so that it is displayed in the center of the screen with a 4:3
aspect ratio.
􀂄 16:9 : Scales an image so that it is displayed in the center of the screen with a 16:9
aspect ratio.
􀂄 ANAMORPHIC 1: Scale an image so that it is displayed in the center of the screen
with a 1.85:1 aspect ratio.
􀂄 ANAMORPHIC 2: Scale an image so that it is displayed in the center of the screen
with a 2.35:1 aspect ratio.

Could you please describe the Anamorphic 1 & Anamorphic 2 settings? Is it just a vertical stretch (in Anamorphic 2) to accommodate an A-lens? What is the difference between Anamorphic 1 and 16:9?
post #788 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgtaa View Post

Did you buy it used for 600 or new. Newegg had sale last week for new pro8200 for 679 dollars. When NEW you get 3 year warranty, but if used you get NO warranty.
The problems in beginning of this thread was a few years ago. Firmware fixed everything. Some people that bought cheap hdmi cables reported horizontal lines or blurry picture. Once they bought good cables NO problems. I use my pro8200 to watch sports tv and play games on it and NO problems, everything looks good.
If it was me, I would not pick up used pro8200 from ebay for 600 dollars if I could buy NEW one with lastest firmware and 3 year warranty for 679. You might have to wait for sale, though. But that is me.

It was new.
post #789 of 1081
Do any companies offer extended warranties though if I wanted to extend this factory one? The only thing ViewSonic extends is the replacement unit service and not the actual service warranty.
post #790 of 1081
This projector should arrive at my house by next Tuesday and so I am in need of recommendations of a good ceiling mount. I want one that will mount the projector almost flush to the ceiling as I am working with a little more than 8' high ceilings so I don't have a ton of room to work with. My overall room size is 10' x 19' and I will be projecting onto one of the 10' side walls a 100" diagonal screen. I'll be throwing about 12' 4" and have an offset of 16.9" so as you can see I want to get a ceiling mount as close as possible so that I can at least have the screen somewhat centered on the wall. I found this one at BB is it any good?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Peerless+-+PRG+Precision+Gear+Swivel+Mount+For+Most+Projectors+up+to+50+Lbs.+-+Black/8605681.p?id=1218132048280&skuId=8605681

I'm open to all suggestions, thanks.
post #791 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwayne3000 View Post

This projector should arrive at my house by next Tuesday and so I am in need of recommendations of a good ceiling mount. I want one that will mount the projector almost flush to the ceiling as I am working with a little more than 8' high ceilings so I don't have a ton of room to work with. My overall room size is 10' x 19' and I will be projecting onto one of the 10' side walls a 100" diagonal screen. I'll be throwing about 12' 4" and have an offset of 16.9" so as you can see I want to get a ceiling mount as close as possible so that I can at least have the screen somewhat centered on the wall. I found this one at BB is it any good?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Peerless+-+PRG+Precision+Gear+Swivel+Mount+For+Most+Projectors+up+to+50+Lbs.+-+Black/8605681.p?id=1218132048280&skuId=8605681
I'm open to all suggestions, thanks.

Well Im getting this projector mount for the VS Pro8200.... its almost the same thing as what you posted but a lot cheaper and it mounts pretty close to the ceiling as well. I too was looking for a ceiling mount that would mount as close to the ceiling as possible and this one mounts 4" from the ceiling. The one in your link mounts at 5" so its not much of a difference there really. I just wish the ebay one below was black but im not going to complain at that price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140549642352?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
post #792 of 1081
I think I might get this one instead. Looks identical to the BB one and for only $30!! If you're worried about the color, go to Home Depot and buy a spary paint called Plasti Dip, it comes in a flat black and you spray it on like spray paint. The major difference though is that you're able to peel it off if you don't like it. It sprays on like a rubber-ish type of coating but you can't even notice it's not paint. I've used it for a few accents on my Camaro and it holds up great in the weather. I will most likely go this route since I'm not a huge fan of the bare metal. Thanks for posting this!!
post #793 of 1081
I just found this one for $10 more and you don't really have that much aluminum to deal with since I know you said you're not a fan of it: Mounted on the ceiling you won't even notice the aluminum on the mount.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-Viewsonic-Pro8200-Pro8300-Pro8400-Pro8450w-Pro8500-/390455313802?_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D110%26meid%3D3303704158366258814%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1063%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D140549642352%26
post #794 of 1081
And to gain headroom, you can always recess part of the mount up into the ceiling by constructing a recess for it. Pick up a few more inches of head room.
post #795 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwayne3000 View Post

I think I might get this one instead. Looks identical to the BB one and for only $30!! If you're worried about the color, go to Home Depot and buy a spary paint called Plasti Dip, it comes in a flat black and you spray it on like spray paint. The major difference though is that you're able to peel it off if you don't like it. It sprays on like a rubber-ish type of coating but you can't even notice it's not paint. I've used it for a few accents on my Camaro and it holds up great in the weather. I will most likely go this route since I'm not a huge fan of the bare metal. Thanks for posting this!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwayne3000 View Post

I just found this one for $10 more and you don't really have that much aluminum to deal with since I know you said you're not a fan of it: Mounted on the ceiling you won't even notice the aluminum on the mount.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-Viewsonic-Pro8200-Pro8300-Pro8400-Pro8450w-Pro8500-/390455313802?_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D110%26meid%3D3303704158366258814%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1063%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D140549642352%26

^^^ that second one looks like an awesome option as well. I think I might just get that one as well. Looks like we helped each other out!
post #796 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

Copied from the manual:
Could you please describe the Anamorphic 1 & Anamorphic 2 settings? Is it just a vertical stretch (in Anamorphic 2) to accommodate an A-lens? What is the difference between Anamorphic 1 and 16:9?

Yes, I am fairly sure they are just for A-lens, an A-lens is an anamorphic lens, that is why they call them anamorphic modes. Ana1 and Ana2 are just for different non-16:9 modes, whereas 16:9 is standard HD-TV format. Ana1 and 2 are just the aspect ratio for a the a-lens I believe. If you use either of the anamorphic modes without an A-LENS, it makes the image aspect stretch ratio look improper.

As far as the Auto and 16:9 setting, well Auto and 16:9 modes are for no-Lens, these are the standard modes we all use. For some cable boxes and Bluray players, you will use AUTO mode, but now and then you might have to force pick the 16:9 mode to get rid of overscan that clips the sides off. This just depends on how the player sends the signal. I think when in HTPC I use Auto mode and on my cable box I use 16:9 mode (but I forget, might have it backwards).

Keep in mind that technically you can watch 2.35 movies on a 2.35 screen with ANY 1080p projector even if it does not support CIH rescaling, this is because the issue is not VIEWING 2.35 content on the 2.35 screen, but the issue is trying to watch 16:9 movies and video on the 2.35 screen. Hence, if you will only be watching 2.35 / 2.40 movies with the Viewsonic, then you can get away with no A-Lens and no scaler, but 16:9 content will overlap the screen area (not just black bars, but the viewable area of the content in the video itself will overlap, hence someone's head in a soap opera will literally shoot over the top and off the screen onto the wall when trying to watch 16:9 on a 2.35 screen on the Viewsonic Pro8200 without a scaler or A-lens).

So if you will very very rarely and almost NEVER watch 16:9 content, then you could get a 2.35 screen for the Viewsonic and do just fine with no scaler and no A-Lens. That said, you will probably want to mask the walls since the black bars will still overshoot on the wall for a 2.35 screen, unless you have an A-Lens. (and even with a scaler the black bars still overshoot in 2.35 mode on a 2.35 screen as well, that is why people use masking). An A-Lens is very expensive and not really worth it for a projector at this price level. I would buy the Lumagen or just a different projector, before buying the A-Lens.

You can sometimes find this Mits projector, an official MFR refurbished Mitsubishi hc3800's for $599 to $699, they have everything you need built-in to switch back and forth on a 2.35 screen between 16:9 and 2.35 content, without an A-Lens. Even these projectors will still overshoot the black bars though (but at least it will not overshoot peoples faces onto the wall when you are watching 16:9 on a 2.35 screen).
...
Edited by coderguy - 11/8/12 at 3:11am
post #797 of 1081
Have a question for you coderguy. As stated previously, I just bought this pj off eBay and it should be here Tuesday. I will be spending my weekend making a 100" diagonal screen out of the Wilsonart Designer White #60 laminate which is stocked at my local Home Depot and Lowes. This will be going in a 10' wide x 18' long bedroom that has a double casement window and 1 single casement with a very small desk lamp and cieling fan/light which this light is hardly ever used. I'll be repainting my walls a light grey and the cieling will remain white I think, carpeting is an off white. Will this laminate material be sufficent for my space? Would you recommend anything else? I will also be cieling mounting this pj 12'4" from the screen with a 4" drop from the cieling as I need the pj to be about 16.9" above the screen in order for it to be somewhat centered on the wall. I'll be mounting the laminate to luan or a thin MDF board to give it rigidity and also it will be going in front of the double windows which in turn the plywood will also act as a light deterent in helping to darken the room a little bit. Overall though will I be ok with this DIY screen until I can save up the $$ to purhcase a better one? Your input is appreciated, thanks!
post #798 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Yes, I am fairly sure they are just for A-lens, an A-lens is an anamorphic lens, that is why they call them anamorphic modes. Ana1 and Ana2 are just for different non-16:9 modes, whereas 16:9 is standard HD-TV format. Ana1 and 2 are just the aspect ratio for a the a-lens I believe. If you use either of the anamorphic modes without an A-LENS, it makes the image aspect stretch ratio look improper.
As far as the Auto and 16:9 setting, well Auto and 16:9 modes are for no-Lens, these are the standard modes we all use. For some cable boxes and Bluray players, you will use AUTO mode, but now and then you might have to force pick the 16:9 mode to get rid of overscan that clips the sides off. This just depends on how the player sends the signal. I think when in HTPC I use Auto mode and on my cable box I use 16:9 mode (but I forget, might have it backwards).
Keep in mind that technically you can watch 2.35 movies on a 2.35 screen with ANY 1080p projector even if it does not support CIH rescaling, this is because the issue is not VIEWING 2.35 content on the 2.35 screen, but the issue is trying to watch 16:9 movies and video on the 2.35 screen. Hence, if you will only be watching 2.35 / 2.40 movies with the Viewsonic, then you can get away with no A-Lens and no scaler, but 16:9 content will overlap the screen area (not just black bars, but the viewable area of the content in the video itself will overlap, hence someone's head in a soap opera will literally shoot over the top and off the screen onto the wall when trying to watch 16:9 on a 2.35 screen on the Viewsonic Pro8200 without a scaler or A-lens).
So if you will very very rarely and almost NEVER watch 16:9 content, then you could get a 2.35 screen for the Viewsonic and do just fine with no scaler and no A-Lens. That said, you will probably want to mask the walls since the black bars will still overshoot on the wall for a 2.35 screen, unless you have an A-Lens. (and even with a scaler the black bars still overshoot in 2.35 mode on a 2.35 screen as well, that is why people use masking). An A-Lens is very expensive and not really worth it for a projector at this price level. I would buy the Lumagen or just a different projector, before buying the A-Lens.
You can sometimes find this Mits projector, an official MFR refurbished Mitsubishi hc3800's for $599 to $699, they have everything you need built-in to switch back and forth on a 2.35 screen between 16:9 and 2.35 content, without an A-Lens. Even these projectors will still overshoot the black bars though (but at least it will not overshoot peoples faces onto the wall when you are watching 16:9 on a 2.35 screen).
...
Thanks for the info.

If one were to have a 2.35 scope screen, is it possible to zoom (make the picture smaller) when viewing 16:9 content so that the projected image size is small enough to maintain CIH (and therefore, no overspill)?

Regarding subtitle display on bluray disc, do most subtitles go below the 2.35 or 2.40 video area (subtitle shown on the bottom black letterbox bar)? My budget Sony BD player does not have subtitle shifting feature. If this is true, I think setting up 16:9 is still a wiser choice.
post #799 of 1081
You can manually ZOOM the projector, but you will also have to move the position of the projector each time you switch between 16:9 and 2.35. You will need to shelf mount the projector to do this, but because of the Viewsonic's high offset it makes it more difficult. You could mount the projector to a mountable ARM that moves. I don't know about the subtitles issue.
post #800 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwayne3000 View Post

Have a question for you coderguy. As stated previously, I just bought this pj off eBay and it should be here Tuesday. I will be spending my weekend making a 100" diagonal screen out of the Wilsonart Designer White #60 laminate which is stocked at my local Home Depot and Lowes. This will be going in a 10' wide x 18' long bedroom that has a double casement window and 1 single casement with a very small desk lamp and cieling fan/light which this light is hardly ever used. I'll be repainting my walls a light grey and the cieling will remain white I think, carpeting is an off white. Will this laminate material be sufficent for my space? Would you recommend anything else? I will also be cieling mounting this pj 12'4" from the screen with a 4" drop from the cieling as I need the pj to be about 16.9" above the screen in order for it to be somewhat centered on the wall. I'll be mounting the laminate to luan or a thin MDF board to give it rigidity and also it will be going in front of the double windows which in turn the plywood will also act as a light deterent in helping to darken the room a little bit. Overall though will I be ok with this DIY screen until I can save up the $$ to purhcase a better one? Your input is appreciated, thanks!

I think the DIY screen should work fine, although with only a 100" screen and the Viewsonic Pro8200 you might need an ND filter because it will be overpowering on the brightness.
post #801 of 1081
Could you point me in the right direction for buying one of these nd filters? I was checking eBay but I honestly don't even know what I'm looking for other than its a nd filter. I'd appreciate it, thanks.
post #802 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwayne3000 View Post

Could you point me in the right direction for buying one of these nd filters? I was checking eBay but I honestly don't even know what I'm looking for other than its a nd filter. I'd appreciate it, thanks.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ipp=75&Ns=p_PRICE_2%7c0&ci=114&N=4077634512&srtclk=sort

No clue on which gradient you would want
post #803 of 1081
Thanks guy I appreciate it. Maybe coderguy will way in and recommend one. Thanks again!
post #804 of 1081
ND FILTERS

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1298652/viewsonic-pro8200-it-exists/390#post_21485474

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1298652/viewsonic-pro8200-it-exists/390#post_21480263

There are different ways to do it, I would suggest probably spending at least $30+ to $50+ up to maybe even $80 on the ND filter, a cheap ND filter may affect the ANSI contrast negatively even though it lowers the absolute blacks (but it does this by also lowering the peak white level the same amount).
Edited by coderguy - 11/9/12 at 6:13pm
post #805 of 1081
I would get this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/58588-REG/Tiffen_67ND3_67mm_Neutral_Density_ND.html


I'm still using the red filter that Coderguy referenced.
post #806 of 1081
I guess maybe he should buy the 1-stop (0.3) ND filter, and see if it is the right amount of light block.
He might only need 1/2 stop (0.15), I'm not 100% sure.

I believe 0.15 = 25% reduction in lumens, 0.3 = 50% reduction
post #807 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwayne3000 View Post

Could you point me in the right direction for buying one of these nd filters? I was checking eBay but I honestly don't even know what I'm looking for other than its a nd filter. I'd appreciate it, thanks.

Let's back up a bit. What size screen are you using? What's the principal use of the projector?

Let's assume your projecting on a 100" screen in a total light controlled room. Assuming you want 15-17 ftL for movie watching, you would need 500 lumens. If the projector were producing 1000 calibrated lumens, a one stop filter would be about right.

For watching sports, etc. you might want 25-30 ftL. In that case you would need 725-870 lumens. The projector would need to be producing 1400-1600 lumens to use that same 1 stop filter. I think the projector can output that much light, in the brightest mode.

I wouldn't go more than 1 stop, and you might even want a 1/2 stop filter, but I think they're harder to find.
The red filter I'm using is about 2/3 of a stop and I use it with the theater mode, eco on.

If you're projecting on a significantly larger screen you might want 1/2 stop filter-- which would reduce light output 25% as Coderguy said.
post #808 of 1081
BSE:

You would know better than I about the ND filters, I just figured the cheap ones didn't work good from some other posters, but hey if BSE found the cheaper ones to work well, then that should be fine to use.
post #809 of 1081
Here's a thread on the use of ND filters.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1353118/anyone-using-nd-filters-to-increase-black-levels-on-entry-projectors-hd20

I think the only reason it appears to increase black levels is because it's reducing the amount of light reaching the screen-- which includes stray light (I've read that some of the cheaper projectors don't do as good of job controlling internal stray light). This is not magically increasing contrast.

The reason I would use a ND filter is if you want to reduce the light reaching the screen-- and I would only add one after trying out the projector for awhile. In my case I had a light controlled room including black walls and ceiling and only projecting a 100" picture and the thing was just too bright for me, even in theater mode with eco on.

If you're using a larger screen, have ambient light issues, use it for gaming or watching tv, it may not be needed.

I can't speak on the cheaper ebay filters. They may be just fine. The CC30r filter I'm using is actually optical resin (plastic). It hasn't warped, but that would be an issue since the lens does get hot.

Here's a thread a started some time ago, How bright is bright enough.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1394286/how-bright-is-bright-enough

I was just trying to give folks a perspective how much light is suitable for different types of viewing.
post #810 of 1081
Thanks guys for the help. I'm going to see how it is without the filter first and then figure it out. Ill be using this mostly for movies and gaming and te occasional TV (sports and what not.) as far as lighting goes, I have a ceiling fan light which is rarely used and a small desk lamp which is what provides the light in the room. I also have a single casement and double casement window but once I build the screen, the double unit window will be blocked by the screen.
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