Viewsonic Pro8200 -- it exists. - Page 29

Originally Posted by 73shark 

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Originally Posted by stkguy 

That is one thing that I over looked when I purchased this projector and I wish that I would have taken the time to read more thoroughly through some of these threads. I can can only compare it to a few others, but this projector has an abnormally high throw. In my set-up I would have to set the thing practically on the ground if you want to run it without having to prop up the back..

Originally Posted by bse53 


We regularly mention the high offset of the projector. The HD20 has a relatively low offset for a dlp projector. The pro8200 has about the same offset as the hc4000. It does make installation difficult in a basement.
I built my own projector mount which gets the projector within an inch of the ceiling. It's just two pieces of 1/2" mdf. One piece is mounted directly to the ceiling with allthread fixed to it at the corners. The other piece is mounted to the projector. I'll make a drawing if you're interested. It takes minimal diy skills.

If you're using a solid screen you can just mount the top of the screen away from the wall, at the same angle you point the projector up, to raise the image on the wall without having to use digital keystone. That might take more carpentry skills, though not a lot.

Originally Posted by jeremyhelling 

I may have to use your idea for a more flush mount. Mine is a 12" mount which would make life even worse. Even with a flush mount I couldn't get the lens center within an inch of the ceiling but at least we're getting closer. The idea of tilting the top is another I hadn't yet thought of. I might even be able to move it a few inches higher on the wall with it being angled downward. The only problem is I play a lot of video games and I'm trying to reduce eye strain and neck strain as well. I'm worried that moving it up the wall could lend to more neck strain. That doesn't mean I still can't tilt it downward to make up for the keystone issue. Good ideas.
If you can describe your mount a little more I can probably figure it out. Looks like there aren't any vents on that side so mounting a sheet of MDF flush to the PJ should be alright. I assume you made it larger than the PJ so you could get to the corners and then just then drill holes at the corners for allthread and then use nuts & bolts to attach the two pieces? As of right now my theater is an unfinished area of the basement so I was even considering building a bracket between floor joists to be able to mount it more flush with the ceiling. While this would help things out now I plan to finish it sooner than later so this would only be a temporary fix.

I'll be making my own mount as well. Anyone know the screw type on the bottom of this unit? I'm guessing M3 based on what I can find on the net.

Originally Posted by stkguy 

I believe its an M4 actually.

Originally Posted by tuxedocivic 


I'll just buy both. Thanks.

Originally Posted by bse53 

We regularly mention the high offset of the projector. The HD20 has a relatively low offset for a dlp projector. The pro8200 has about the same offset as the hc4000. It does make installation difficult in a basement.
I built my own projector mount which gets the projector within an inch of the ceiling. It's just two pieces of 1/2" mdf. One piece is mounted directly to the ceiling with allthread fixed to it at the corners. The other piece is mounted to the projector. I'll make a drawing if you're interested. It takes minimal diy skills.
If you're using a solid screen you can just mount the top of the screen away from the wall, at the same angle you point the projector up, to raise the image on the wall without having to use digital keystone. That might take more carpentry skills, though not a lot.

Originally Posted by GreenBaron 

Please post a photo or drawing. My PRO8200 will arrive on Friday so I need some ideas. Thanks!

Originally Posted by bse53 

We regularly mention the high offset of the projector.

Originally Posted by bse53 

Ok, here's a picture of my mount. In this case I have a vaulted ceiling. Make sure you elongate the projector mount holes for the allthread so that it will allow the lower mount to be angled. Mounting the projector to the lower board, I made the holes aligned with the projector oversized and then used fender washers. I did that for two reasons. I didn't have a template and was basically guessing where the holes should be to keep the projector square to the mounting board and it allows small adjustments to the projector. Snug down the projector mounting bolts, but don't get them too tight and when the projector is hung you can make very small adjustments to the alignment.

Originally Posted by tuxedocivic 

Well, I've had my PJ running now for a couple days. Not totally installed and setup the way I plan it, but running. I have a question I'm sure is in the thread somewhere but can't locate. How do you adjust overscan? I'm getting overscan, and my PJ is set to "3", what ever that means. I can't seem to adjust it. I assume I want "0".

Here's a mini review / warning to new Pro8200 users, for what it's worth. This thing sucks out of the box. When I first started watching it, blacks were totally crushed up, blues were blown way out (Avatar was painful to watch), all colour saturation was blooming, a total mess. Next, trying to navigate and make the necessary adjustments proved fruitless. Thanks to this thread I found the part about must setting your player to RGB mode. How silly is that, I don't get it. But yes, that fixed the blacks. I would have tried this eventually, but this thread saved me a ton of time. As for the blues and saturation, that took some twiddling, and I've only worked on it by eye, but it's now very very good. I'm surprised it came in so nicely. Coderguy is right, the colours on this are very accurate. As for the black performance, hey, I wanted the HC4000 but cheaped out. I'm not dissatisfied. Yes, black is a dark grey at best, but the gradation is there and the brain gets fooled by dark grey really easily. Compared to my plasma which has really nice blacks, it's far from good. But the truth is, you don't know it while watching. Space scenes might look weird, haven't tried any yet. But dark action scenes have the necessary gradation to keep me satisfied.

And it's certainly smaller and quiter than my 100lbs CRT noise box I had 12 or 13 years ago

Originally Posted by tuxedocivic 

Hey Jeremy,

I still will likely change these as the bulb burns and I have more viewing time. At the office, so by memory it was something like this:

Standard
Brightness = 45
Contrast = 50 or 55
Colour = Mid
Saturation = 47 (I found this setting fairly sensitive, lower 40s were washed out, over 50 it bloomed)
Tint = 50
Red = 50, 60 (sat/gain)
Green = 50, 55
Blue = 45, 35
Megenta = 50, 55
Cyan = 50, 50
Yellow = 55, 50
Eco ON
Sharpness = 5
Gamma 1

Can't remember what else to adjust.

Definitely set your source to RGB if it can be. But grey blacks wasn't the problem for me when I had it on auto or YpBpR (or what ever it is). It was quite black, just crushed. LIke the brightness setting was at 0 or something. So maybe your grey blacks aren't related.

Do you happen to know how to adjust overscan?

Originally Posted by bse53 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1390576/viewsonic-pro8200-calibrations

Here is a thread on pro8200 calibrations.

I had pretty good luck with the settings in post #6

Originally Posted by tuxedocivic 

Sure, I can post the exact one, but I'm headed out of town around noon and wont use the PJ until tomorrow. I'm pretty sure those are close. They'll get you close to where I was (which is only an eyeball test).

Thanks for the link bse53. I'll have to give those a try too. Probably better than my eye calibration Jeremy...

Originally Posted by jeremyhelling 

Maybe after you try his you can compare the two and then post back your findings as far as if you liked anything you did differently than what he did.

Originally Posted by tuxedocivic 


Sure. Judging by the info in that post, he has a more blacked out room than me, so if mine are better to me, it would likely be related to that. So depends on your room too.

Originally Posted by jeremyhelling 

Alright, so I'm in the settings and entering all of the settings from that post #6 but there are a few issues. I can't seem to find this RGB setting anywhere. Plus your settings only have two entries per color but there are three? In addition, I noticed some unusual behavior while adjusting settings... specifically the red, blue, green, magenta, cyan and yellow. Where he had them at 240 the default was 0 so I would crank it up which took which took a while but the picture wouldn't change and then all of a sudden it would pop to a weird color and then it would start to come back to a normal color as you approached the 240. Also, I'm finding the my brightness needs to be 25 or less before my blacks begin to approach anything that's not gray.

Originally Posted by rgtaa 


Take your time, bro, look in the comments on post 6 in the calibration thread linked a few posts above, it has 3 entries per color. Also, make sure you do everything in comments and anything else in that post.
For RGB, look in pro8200 menu, under "settings", then "signal type", change it from "auto" to RGB.
For example ,in comments , the red he has 240/75/64, those are 3 settings for that color. yellow he has towards bottom of his post.
Also, check your other equipment menu's too, and tell us your equipment, and if you are using A/V reciever and hdmi cable that came with pro8200. All this stuff helps, if you want the guys to help you.

Originally Posted by jeremyhelling 

Yeah, I get that there are three settings per color and I have set all of those. Like I said as I was adjusting some of them there was no change to the picture then it would suddenly have a drastic change then slowly adjust back to somewhat normal. This is all while I was holding down the key to adjust from 0 to 240. Then to the next setting on the same color and so on. My comment about your settings was that you only had TWO settings for each one instead of THREE which I don't understand.

Originally Posted by rgtaa 


What are you saying, it's very confusing. Your first sentence say's I get there are three settings per color, than your last line says the opposite.
As for shift in color as it's changing, I don't think that is problem. Maybe edit your posts and re-read them, mistakes happen. They do to me.

Originally Posted by tuxedocivic 

Hey Jeremy,

I still will likely change these as the bulb burns and I have more viewing time. At the office, so by memory it was something like this:

Standard
Brightness = 45
Contrast = 50 or 55
Colour = Mid
Saturation = 47 (I found this setting fairly sensitive, lower 40s were washed out, over 50 it bloomed)
Tint = 50
Red = 50, 60 (sat/gain)
Green = 50, 55
Blue = 45, 35
Megenta = 50, 55
Cyan = 50, 50
Yellow = 55, 50
Eco ON
Sharpness = 5
Gamma 1

Can't remember what else to adjust.

Definitely set your source to RGB if it can be. But grey blacks wasn't the problem for me when I had it on auto or YpBpR (or what ever it is). It was quite black, just crushed. LIke the brightness setting was at 0 or something. So maybe your grey blacks aren't related.

Do you happen to know how to adjust overscan?

Originally Posted by rgtaa 

LOL, BSE53 listed probably the best settings, the other guy was going by memory and was just giving stuff from what he remembered. 360 xbox for me too, Battlefield 3 in jets is pretty cool and forza motersport. So you know to check the A/V reciever settings too. The picture should look awesome. If not, maybe just for testing purposes, plug your 360 straight into the back of the pro8200 and see how it looks using the supplied hdmi cable from pro8200.
It was kind of confusing having the back and forth with you, "who's on first, type thing".