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Viewsonic Pro8200 -- it exists. - Page 33

post #961 of 1020
1/2/13 at 4:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12loser12 View Post

Hi all!!
My wife just got me a brand new Viewsonic Pro8200 for Christmas. (Yay!) I plan to use this in my basement. I tried my best to search and skim the 933 previous posts but that's a lot of reading. If anyone has any quick tips for my mounting/ setup please let me know.
1. My room is 18 feet long, but only between 7 and 7.5 ft high. I have read that low ceiling height might be an issue with this projector frown.gif
2. There is a front wall that is 7 ft wide by ceiling height (~7.5) that I plan to project on. I have no screen, but am leaning towards whipping up one of the paint mixtures from another thread and possibly painting a screen on that wall.
3. I plan to likely hook it up to my Onkyo TxNr 709 AV receiver and then maybe tunnel an HDMI cable through the ceiling and ceiling mount it, although I am certainly not opposed to other suggestions, like a back wall shelf or something of that nature.
Specific questions to start with:
1. Any specific recommended ceiling mounts? Any features to look for or avoid?
2. What distance should I project from? I know I don't have a set screen size but that is only because I am flexible within the constraints of the 7x7.5 foot wall.
3. Any specific thoughts or glaring oversights I am making on my current plan?
As always, thank you all for the great help you always are. Happy holidays to all who celebrate!


I am happy with this mount, it allows me to angle the projector up to compensate for the 7' ceiling and projector offset. I had an HDMI cable buried in the wall 4 years ago, especially for this and now the HDMI cable doesn't work(!) So I'll probably just string a 25' HDMI cable along the wall to the ceiling and paint it maybe. My screen is just a white painted wall and no complaints.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067OR60
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post #962 of 1020
1/6/13 at 11:53am
Could use some help from people that have used AVS 709 Cal disk for this projector. I have done my best to eliminate any video processing done by my blu ray player besides upscaling. It is directly connected to the projector. The issue is with the misc. patterns.

A4 color clipping. The red and blue sections clearly show flashing bars below 235 but I cannot get any bars showing up in the green. I have tried adjusting the contrast/color/tint, no change there. Any ideas?

One other annoying issue, really bright blues seem exaggerated, almost neon. Seems like there is kind of a glow around those objects that smears the edges. This is rarely a problem since it seems that most content doesn't use this bright blue.

Thanks in advance.
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post #963 of 1020
1/7/13 at 8:34am
Not to bother you all again, but this light is bothering me now. i just want to make sure its normal. Keep in mind this picture was taken with my DSLR with a slow shutter speed, high ISO, but it is visible in a dark room . I used the blank screen function on the projector to block out the projector screens brightness when taking the pictures.
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post #964 of 1020
1/7/13 at 9:46am
Doesn't look normal to me. At least mine doesn't do that.
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post #965 of 1020
1/7/13 at 9:59am
From what I have gathered on this site, DLP's are prone to some light leakage, however your projector definitely seems excessive.

On my Viewsonic, I have a little light leakage on the ceiling directly in front of the projector, but it doesn't seem nearly as bright as yours. And I don't have a ring like yours that I can see when looking at the screen. I think a little light leakage onto the ceiling directly in front is normal, and if you read back several pages, you will find one installation that has a frame/hood built around the lens to reduce the light leakage. But yours definitely is much more than mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dogodile View Post

Not to bother you all again, but this light is bothering me now. i just want to make sure its normal. Keep in mind this picture was taken with my DSLR with a slow shutter speed, high ISO, but it is visible in a dark room . I used the blank screen function on the projector to block out the projector screens brightness when taking the pictures.
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post #966 of 1020
1/7/13 at 10:31am
Well I just got my replacement in and the projector still makes the noise. I suspect this one is the updated version as the last one I got upon booting up it shows a tiny viewsonic logo with a white screen. This one shows the viewsonic logo but with a blue screen and a higher resolution of the logo. The default brightness was also changed from 50 on the old one to 20 on the newer one. Contrast was also changed - from 50 to 40. Also by turning the quick power on option on the power led no longer flashes.
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post #967 of 1020
1/7/13 at 6:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agenesis View Post

Hi guys I want to confirm something as it has been driving me mad.
Does your pro 8200 make an extremely high frequency noise or whine when it is turned off? Put your ears next to the speakers when the pj is off, and I'm sure you'll most certainly hear it unless you're really old.
I just want to make sure that I my unit is not defective as page 90 of this thread mentions of the same issue. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1298652/viewsonic-pro8200-it-exists/90#post_19972866

It's normal, it's the friction rubbing against the color wheel bearings. I noticed on mine the noise MOSTLY went away after 1000-2000 hours (forgot exactly when).
Just ignore it, it gets quieter eventually after the bearing develops a slight "groove" into the gear or whatever you want to call it.
Edited by coderguy - 1/7/13 at 7:00pm
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post #968 of 1020
1/7/13 at 9:51pm
Hey guys, I just picked up this projector, I am using it in a basement with varying light conditions (its a rec room) and I was wondering what can i do to get more detail in the shadows? It seems whenever I watch the Matrix or any dark film, half the screen is black. Any tips?
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post #969 of 1020
1/8/13 at 5:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldog49 View Post

Hey guys, I just picked up this projector, I am using it in a basement with varying light conditions (its a rec room) and I was wondering what can i do to get more detail in the shadows? It seems whenever I watch the Matrix or any dark film, half the screen is black. Any tips?

Make sure your player and your projector are both set to "RGB" color space. That solved the issue for me.
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post #970 of 1020
1/8/13 at 6:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldog49 View Post

Hey guys, I just picked up this projector, I am using it in a basement with varying light conditions (its a rec room) and I was wondering what can i do to get more detail in the shadows? It seems whenever I watch the Matrix or any dark film, half the screen is black. Any tips?


As the other poster said, make sure they are both set to RGB, and whatever player you are using is set to RGB Limited, not Full. On the PS3, this is set in the setup menu, and in the playback menu as well. Also, disable Deep Color etc.
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post #971 of 1020
1/15/13 at 5:45pm
I have this projector on my home theater room and all is well. Calibrated it using Calman4 and an i1display pro. the only problem is that my geometry is not perfect. My left side is perfectly straight, meaning if i project it to a wall and use an plum level its perfectly leveled up and down. but my right side is not. the bottom of the screen its inwards. i thought it was my screen at first but i realized it was the actual image been projected. do you guys have any input as to why its like that? there is no keystoning either. its set to 0
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post #972 of 1020
1/16/13 at 6:47am
You said the left side of the screen is perfectly plum. Is that the screen or the image? Are you projecting the image onto a wall or screen?

Is the bottom of the image perfectly level?
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post #973 of 1020
1/16/13 at 10:34am
its being projected onto a screen. but for troubleshooting i was projecting it to a wall. the left side is plumb .. when tested with a plumb level..but not the right side.. i even checked the screen and its not the screen .. and i do thing the bottom is not perfectly level either, but will double check. let me know what do you think.
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post #974 of 1020
1/17/13 at 5:14pm
I would try and get the bottom of the image level. That will level the projector on the 'X' axis. Then work on one of the sides. that should level the projector in the 'Y' axis. Then you need to get the lens square to the screen, the front plane.

It can be quite a chore, since you're working in three planes.
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post #975 of 1020
1/19/13 at 2:00pm
I managed to get the bottom of the image level and that reduced the amount of unevenness at the right side while the left side its still good and got it squared in the screen but now the problem is I have a part of the top right image missing ..its not much..maybe half inch.. the left side is ok and it starts to move upwards around the middle of the screen..I'll get a pic up once I get back home. Whats causing this?
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post #976 of 1020
1/21/13 at 2:25pm
Any words/rumors on a new version of the 8200?
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post #977 of 1020
1/21/13 at 2:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwhitnee View Post

I am happy with this mount, it allows me to angle the projector up to compensate for the 7' ceiling and projector offset. I had an HDMI cable buried in the wall 4 years ago, especially for this and now the HDMI cable doesn't work(!) So I'll probably just string a 25' HDMI cable along the wall to the ceiling and paint it maybe. My screen is just a white painted wall and no complaints.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067OR60



Do you have to end up using keystone? I understand this projector has an 18" offset?
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post #978 of 1020
1/22/13 at 7:20am
Hi, I picked up my 8200 about 2 months ago after reading and researching it extensively. I had it all set up with high altitude mode on (5,000ft), quick power on and off set to off, eco mode on, and some of the mentioned tweaks to all the output values. But then one day-kaput. I had just finished watching Prometheus with the projector idling at the PS3 menu screen when I heard a pop. Didn't sound like a bulb-I've had DLP rear projection TV's for years and have heard my fair share of bulbs go. I contacted Viewsonic and described the issue. Guy gave me an RMA, and FIVE DAYS LATER!!!! a new projector is on my doorstep:D I now have the newer firmware with the blue background and sharper birds, that annoying high frequency whine is now gone when the projector is powered off. Build date was July 2012. Maybe Viewsonic has fixed their warranty service problems?
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post #979 of 1020
1/22/13 at 10:03am
Saturation, Hue, gain, tempurature.... Just got a blue filter over the weekend and spend too little time attempting to calibrate with a test pattern, the one with the four bars, color adjust for the outside ones and tint adjust for the inside ones. Anyway, I wasn't sure which setting/s to adjust for color. The setting one I tried was saturation, increasing it worked to make the color bars blend together but the picture seems a little oversaturated now, colors are bright and seems to have lost a little detail. Should I be changing other settings such as Hue/gain/temp instead of saturation?
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post #980 of 1020
1/22/13 at 3:17pm
Saturation and tint is for the smte bars.. they set the overall brightness and hue for all colors at once. Hue,saturation and gain on the other hand let you adjust the primary and secondary colors individually and get them as close to reference as possible. You need a meter and some software to get this done though. The saturation and tint can be set with the blue filter. I would leave gain,saturation and hue in their default values if you dont have a meter and software and just adjust saturation and tint on the other menu with the blue filter. For the outside bars use the saturation control and use the inside bars for the hue control. You might have to come back and adjust saturation after the hue and so on.
Edited by erick0071 - 1/22/13 at 3:22pm
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post #981 of 1020
1/22/13 at 7:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by erick0071 View Post

Saturation and tint is for the smte bars.. they set the overall brightness and hue for all colors at once. Hue,saturation and gain on the other hand let you adjust the primary and secondary colors individually and get them as close to reference as possible. You need a meter and some software to get this done though. The saturation and tint can be set with the blue filter. I would leave gain,saturation and hue in their default values if you dont have a meter and software and just adjust saturation and tint on the other menu with the blue filter. For the outside bars use the saturation control and use the inside bars for the hue control. You might have to come back and adjust saturation after the hue and so on.

Thanks for the response. What about the menu item that allows adjustments to RGB temperature?
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post #982 of 1020
1/23/13 at 9:28am
It helps you get the grayscale as close to reference D65 as possible ..low will give you a cooler image..more blue in the image.. mid has more red and high has even more red..user you can adjust them individually..you can try doing it by eye looking at a grayscale ramp and getting them as grey and white as possible with no evident tint or hue to them. Best case scenario, you use a meter and software to get it to specs.
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post #983 of 1020
1/24/13 at 10:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post

that annoying high frequency whine is now gone when the projector is powered off.

I have that whine sound when the PJ is turned off. Do you think your dead PJ is related to this? Glad things worked out for you.
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post #984 of 1020
1/24/13 at 5:08pm
I really don't think the high pitched noise is anything to worry about as plenty of others have had it with no problems and some have even reported it going away over time. I really don't know what blew on mine, but I am hoping to contact viewsonic and maybe find out. I am thinking maybe something on the board like a capacitor or diode or something? It really didn't sound lime a bulb popping to me.
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post #985 of 1020
1/25/13 at 9:20am
Thanks.
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post #986 of 1020
1/28/13 at 6:37am
First, thanks so much for the people contributing to this forum. It helped me tremendously when making my decision. And, it stopped me from having a total panic attack when my wife and I were watching Immortal the other night and the dark scenes were literally un-watchable. I knew there was a "fix" for this and have since used the tricks and calibration adjustments recommended here. Dark scenes improved greatly. No, it's not movie theater quality, but I wasn't expecting that for $800 either. My questions are :

Audio
1. Currently I'm using the 1/8" audio out jack to a set of computer speakers. My only input is HDMI from my Xbox. I get multiple pops every time the projector starts up. I was aware of an issue with one pop, but this is 3 or 4. Is this just normal for this unit?

2. The audio map for this thing is very confusing. I want to hook the sound up to my stereo. Are the red/white audio jacks ins or outs? Is the only/best way to handle audio through the 1/8 audio out jack?

Video
1. On very dark scenes, I can see a dim 1" dark border all the way around the image. It doesn't bother me, but what is it?

2. The calibration adjustments I saw here had the mode set to Standard, and the adjustments seemed to be made within that mode. I changed the mode User 1 and made my adjustments there. Does it make any difference?
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post #987 of 1020
1/28/13 at 10:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaoscat View Post

Audio
1. Currently I'm using the 1/8" audio out jack to a set of computer speakers. My only input is HDMI from my Xbox. I get multiple pops every time the projector starts up. I was aware of an issue with one pop, but this is 3 or 4. Is this just normal for this unit?
2. The audio map for this thing is very confusing. I want to hook the sound up to my stereo. Are the red/white audio jacks ins or outs? Is the only/best way to handle audio through the 1/8 audio out jack?

You need to skip the audio to the projector, simply run the HDMI to your receiver first then the HDMI to the projector, or get an HDMI switch. Not sure about popping, but I wouldn't worry as this isn't the optimal way to setup audio.

Video
1. On very dark scenes, I can see a dim 1" dark border all the way around the image. It doesn't bother me, but what is it?

The Aspect settings are incorrect on the Viewsonic Menu. Change it to Auto or 16:9 (if you see the bar when in 16:9, try auto, if you are in AUTO try 16:9, etc...).

2. The calibration adjustments I saw here had the mode set to Standard, and the adjustments seemed to be made within that mode. I changed the mode User 1 and made my adjustments there. Does it make any difference?
Yes, the best OOTB settings are generally Standard with Medium (Std w/ User Color Temp if wanting to adjust), but using the actual USER 1 preset was way too blue / cool of an image. However, everyone's units vary in calibration so the only way to know for sure is to buy a calibration meter.
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post #988 of 1020
1/29/13 at 2:31pm
Video
1. On very dark scenes, I can see a dim 1" dark border all the way around the image. It doesn't bother me, but what is it?

The Aspect settings are incorrect on the Viewsonic Menu. Change it to Auto or 16:9 (if you see the bar when in 16:9, try auto, if you are in AUTO try 16:9, etc...).


I double checked everything. It was set to 16:9. I tried changing to auto, looked at it, changed it back to 16:9. There's always a little 1" rectangular border on the screen.
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post #989 of 1020
1/29/13 at 3:56pm
That is weird, when mine did that I promise changing that setting fixed it, I only had to change it between HTPC and bluray player.
Try adjusting the color space setting as well in combination with this setting. What are you outputting from, a bluray?
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post #990 of 1020
1/30/13 at 2:18pm
I'm only connecting my Xbox to the projector.
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