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Have a look at these Beauties!!!! How to make your OWN "High End" Cables!!! - Page 67

post #1981 of 3538
^^^

it's the cable itself... on the insulation... i like it too, it makes it real easy to correctly identify which one goes where...

it is what was inside the purple cables i had... i bought a bunch of those... it's pretty good stuff though, very flexible for 12 gauge...
post #1982 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^

it's the cable itself... on the insulation... i like it too, it makes it real easy to correctly identify which one goes where...

it is what was inside the purple cables i had... i bought a bunch of those... it's pretty good stuff though, very flexible for 12 gauge...

Thinking that a cable should reflect certain characteristics of its owner, I rather like the stubby banana plugs What brand are they?

FWIW, I like the custom 12 gauge cable from BJC (its Belkin), also pretty flexible. I used monoprice in wall, but went with BJC for interconnects.
post #1983 of 3538
^^^

LOL!

they are gls safe connects...

clicky

i like them a lot... nice and secure, and they have been off and on several times... i used to use the monoprice plugs, but when those wore out, i took a hint from steve and tried these...

i'll keep that in mind... although to be honest, once i'm done with this, i don't want to see another piece of techflex for a long time... that snake took a lot of patience* to feed through...

* something i will never be accused of having an overabundance of...
post #1984 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nethawk View Post


FWIW, I like the custom 12 gauge cable from BJC (its Belkin), also pretty flexible. I used monoprice in wall, but went with BJC for interconnects.

are you referring to the belden 5000ue? just popped over to the bjc site, heck, that's cheap enough for 12 gauge...

relative to the mono in-wall stuff, how flexible is it? imo, the the mono in-wall is too stiff to make cables like this out of... it's great for "long runs", theres 105 feet of it in my snake, i finally used up the last of a 250 ft spool i bought a couple years ago...
post #1985 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by B&W_Elit3 View Post

Finished with my custom cables. I didn't do anything too extravagant because I didn't want them to stand out, but I'm happy with the end result.


hey what plugs are these? They look really sharp.
post #1986 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^

LOL!

they are gls safe connects...

clicky

i like them a lot... nice and secure, and they have been off and on several times... i used to use the monoprice plugs, but when those wore out, i took a hint from steve and tried these...

i'll keep that in mind... although to be honest, once i'm done with this, i don't want to see another piece of techflex for a long time... that snake took a lot of patience* to feed through...

* something i will never be accused of having an overabundance of...

I thought they might be GLS. I use GLS locking plugs, also very nice.

I'm with ya there, I have all the cables I need now and hope I don't need anymore anytime soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

are you referring to the belden 5000ue? just popped over to the bjc site, heck, that's cheap enough for 12 gauge...

relative to the mono in-wall stuff, how flexible is it? imo, the the mono in-wall is too stiff to make cables like this out of... it's great for "long runs", theres 105 feet of it in my snake, i finally used up the last of a 250 ft spool i bought a couple years ago...

Yes, Belden, oops! It's better than Monoprice 12ga, but still not quite as flexible as I would like. Definitely easier to snake through techflex.

Someday, if I can find a cloth equivalent to the plastic techflex, I will probably redo my cables. I think a nylon, silk or even polyester would be nicer, and I'm really not nuts about the rattlesnake techflex I got, but it's the only color combination that matches the room.
post #1987 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlassWolf View Post


hey what plugs are these? They look really sharp.

Thanks! They're GLS locking banana plugs. 20 pack for $50 on Amazon
post #1988 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by B&W_Elit3 View Post

Finished with my custom cables. I didn't do anything too extravagant because I didn't want them to stand out, but I'm happy with the end result.

Did you stop your flex too short before it met the pants? You can cut those wires shorter to hide the wires from showing next to the bananas
post #1989 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by B&W_Elit3 View Post


Idk, that seems like itd be more involved but I haven't looked into it at all. Right now all the power cords are hidden but eventually I will, are there any guides to making them on here?

Very easy to make
post #1990 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post


Did you stop your flex too short before it met the pants? You can cut those wires shorter to hide the wires from showing next to the bananas

Yea I fixed that after I took the picture actually. I did a lot better on the other runs I made.
post #1991 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by B&W_Elit3 View Post


Yea I fixed that after I took the picture actually. I did a lot better on the other runs I made.

The wires or the fkex
post #1992 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post


The wires or the fkex

Just the wires, lazy I know.
post #1993 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by B&W_Elit3 View Post


Just the wires, lazy I know.

No biggy. It's your cables. Lol
post #1994 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post


No biggy. It's your cables. Lol

Yea I used the randy cable for the run where only a couple of inches is exposed.
post #1995 of 3538
anyone have pros/cons or preference for signal path cables (RCA interconnects) between using coax, like Blue Jeans cable LC-1, versus using twisted pair multi-strand wire perhaps with a ferrite core?

I'm trying to desice which route I want to go when I make DIY cables for my components when everything gets moved into the 36U rack, and I make the cables to custom lengths for better management.

Thanks for any input.
post #1996 of 3538
I use the blue jeans cable considering it has a lower capitance.
post #1997 of 3538
I just finished 4 bi-amp cables in 12awg, and 3 2-conductor speaker cables in 8awg. They came out decently.

post #1998 of 3538
You're right, decently indeed. Nice work!!
post #1999 of 3538
I did discover one thing using the techflex. I really need to buy a hotknife. I used to have a hotwire for doing foam work, but it stayed in MI I think. I can't seem to find it after the move, and melting the ends of cut techflex with a lighter doesn't turn out as well as I'd hoped. I need a way to make clean cauterized cuts, so it looks like I'm buying a hotknife in the enar future before I do any mroe of this sort of work, and I plan to do all of my interconnects as DIY as well, so it'll get plenty of use.

The cable pants went on much more easily than expected. When one got a little hung up on some tape residue on the cable, I just greased it up a bit with some hand sanitizer, slipped it on quickly, and within seconds, the alcohol based sanitizer dried, and all was well.

the colored heat shrink to transition from techflex to pants was a nice touch, too. I really like that colroed stuff. I may have to try the GLS spades, though. I'm not sure I really like the Sewell ones I used. They don't appear to like taking wire much larger than maybe 14AWG at best. Poorly designed for the opening to insert the wire in my overly picky opinion.

Those connectors are Sewell at both ends. I'll try the GLS next time. Probably their spades, and either the black chrome or flex wave bananas.

I do have 100' of monoprice 4 conductor 12AWG CL2 wire. If I have any left over after the in-wall work, would that make decent wire for doing twisted pair interconnects? I've considered using fine silver wire as well, but I need to do some more research on that for signal path wiring.
post #2000 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlassWolf View Post

I did discover one thing using the techflex. I really need to buy a hotknife. I used to have a hotwire for doing foam work, but it stayed in MI I think. I can't seem to find it after the move, and melting the ends of cut techflex with a lighter doesn't turn out as well as I'd hoped. I need a way to make clean cauterized cuts, so it looks like I'm buying a hotknife in the enar future before I do any mroe of this sort of work, and I plan to do all of my interconnects as DIY as well, so it'll get plenty of use.

The easy way I did the ends, were by wrapping the place where I wanted to cut with electrical tape and cutting through the middle of the electrical tape. This prevented the techflex from fraying and wreaking havoc.
post #2001 of 3538
I found the frays to be a benefit. I experimented with a couple of techniques to limit the fray but the pants were more secure if I just cut them normally and ran a lighter over the end.
post #2002 of 3538
Hot knife is nice for securing the ends when they ship,but shows through the pants etc.. A regular lighter works fine.

While cutting, hold your hand close to the end and tight. Cut, then run a lighter lightly over it. That will hold long enough to get pants on.
post #2003 of 3538
Anyone have a problem with the GLS locking banana plugs not inserting all theay into the binding posts? its happening on all 3 of my POLK speakers. No, they are not in the locked position when inserting.

post #2004 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by venhith View Post

Anyone have a problem with the GLS locking banana plugs not inserting all theay into the binding posts? its happening on all 3 of my POLK speakers. No, they are not in the locked position when inserting.

Those binding posts look like they are more shallow than other units may be but you're still going to have a full connection and the locking mechanism will still be functional on the plug.
post #2005 of 3538
I agree. I haven't had that problem with those plugs. If they lock into place and do not come out, I think you will be fine.
post #2006 of 3538
If they really get on your nerves, order a new set of binding posts from P-E and replace the stock ones. I replaced a set on one of my pair of KEF 104/2s because the red/black plastic had aged and split apart, so I just swapped them for some gold plated fancy ones.
post #2007 of 3538
yes it will get on my nerves lol. now to search for replacements for the stock ones.
post #2008 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by venhith View Post

yes it will get on my nerves lol. now to search for replacements for the stock ones.

parts-express.com and go to speaker building > hardware > binding posts.
for about $20 or so, you should find a couple of good pair you like.

here's how my replacements turned out:



sorry it's not more of a close-up. I took this pic a while back when I did the speaker restoration.
post #2009 of 3538
Has anyone thought of using any kind of Cable boot to cover the plugs?
post #2010 of 3538
Quote:
Originally Posted by venhith View Post

Has anyone thought of using any kind of Cable boot to cover the plugs?

not possible IMHO.
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