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Have a look at these Beauties!!!! How to make your OWN "High End" Cables!!! - Page 70

post #2071 of 3539
I don't want just a hole in the rock, I wanted a more finished look hence the plates.
post #2072 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool View Post

I don't want just a hole in the rock, I wanted a more finished look hence the plates.

With the caulk, there is no hole and I finish the wire-way with the surround speaker itself. confused.gif

I'm just sharing a suggestion on how to hang wires in a wall without need for plates or exposed holes. I don't have a camera available and if I did, I don't know how to upload example images. Just trying to share a method regarding how to simplify the whole cable in the wall, hang a speaker on the wall routine; high WAF. Once the speaker is in place, one can't see a plate/holes/caulking or cables.

smile.gif

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 8/4/12 at 12:14pm
post #2073 of 3539
No prob. Different folks like different ways.
post #2074 of 3539
Nothing wrong with using wall paltes. I use them for the surrounds, myself smile.gif I put mine in, because the previous owner of the house just left raw wire hanging out of a crudely punched hole, so I cut around the hole and put in nthe plates. He also put the holes too close to the corner of the room, so I had to mount my somewhat heavier speakers a bit away from the plates, on a stud, similar to the image posted by the previous enthusiast.





post #2075 of 3539
Nope. Nothing wrong with wall plates if you like wall plates and wires. Most wives cringe and cry at the sight of plates and wires all over their living room walls; low WAF. And if they're not crying on the outside, they're darn sure crying on the inside.

As to hanging stuff from sheetrock with only air behind it, the rock solid way to do so is: install a 3/16 inch, three inch long toggle bolt. To the toggle bolt, between the head of the toggle bolt and the butterfly, thread on a nut and then add a 3/16" fender washer. Now you have the toggle butterfly on the inside of the wall and the fender washer locked in place with the accompanying lock nut and after the lock nut is tightened into place, the toggle bolt can be threaded in and out of the wall to suit your speaker hanger distance, from wallboard to back of speaker wall hanger. There's only one way this setup will fail and that's if you want it to fail. No need to have to find a stud.

FWIW, to easily repair an opening in sheetrock, get four inch wide strips of 1/4" plywood which are cut eight inches longer then the opening being closed. Center the plywood strips behind the existing sheet rock and screw into place with course thread sheetrock screws. Use two strips, one on each side of the opening being repaired. Cut a piece of matching thickness wallboard to fit the opening and screw into place using similar sheetrock anchors. Take a box cutter knife and score the old wallboard around the opening about an inch and a half back from the opening. Remove old paper with a standard putty knife to create a trough in which to embed the seaming tape. Allow taping mud to dry, then top with a second coat and when dry, use canned knockdown spray texture to texture match the existing wall texture when finished. When the texture coat is dry, primer the repair and paint to match.

It tain't no thang if you're not a wire and plate kinds guy or a guy who likes to do stuff with a high WAF. Don't want no Dear Anne Landers letters sent in to the editor.

"Dear Anne Landers"

You wouldn't believe what my husband did to my living room today.

Signed
You've got to be kidding.

Nope, no Anne Landers' letters for this old man.

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 8/4/12 at 1:22pm
post #2076 of 3539
See? There's the problem. I don't have a wife trying to tell me what to do! smile.gif That, and the women who have seen the way I have the HT set up, approved, so I guess I just pick women with good taste. hahaha
The plasma TV on the front wall uses wall plates as well, allowing me to plug the TV in directly behind the flat panel, and drop cables in-wall routing the LAN, HDMI, etc to the AV rack that's also moutned in-wall, so all that's visible is a smoked glass panel alone one side wall, allowing for easy access to the BD, LD, CD, VCR, tape deck, etc.. anyway, the wall plates look much neater and tidier than running cables along the carpet and all the way down the walls. If I'd had the ability to drop the cables directly behind the surrounds, I'd have done so, but the half-asser who did the wiring before I bought the house didn't leave me that option, sadly.
It all worked out in the end. The only things on the floor now are the floor standing mains, the center channel on a stand, and the sub.

Truth be told, most people don't even notice the surrounds unless they're pointed out. They blend in fairly well, all things considered.
post #2077 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaison View Post

With all of this DIY, is there anyone in this thread who makes and sells these types of cables? I wouldn't mind purchasing a pair of 7 foot speaker cables for my mains.

Sure. Over on Amazon, something like this should make you happy.
post #2078 of 3539
Im going to warn you guys since obviously you dont know the rules. AVS does not allow people to market anything on here unless you post it in the for sale section. You would have to be a gold member.

This was the reason you didnt see a certain someone on here for a very long time.
post #2079 of 3539
I deleted my posts to avoid breaking policy.
post #2080 of 3539
Moderator? Worry, worry. What constitutes marketing and what constitutes purchase referrals such as to Accessories4Less, Vann's or Amazon?

???

confused.gif
post #2081 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaison View Post

I deleted my posts to avoid breaking policy.

Same here!
post #2082 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Moderator? Worry, worry. What constitutes marketing and what constitutes purchase referrals such as to Accessories4Less, Vann's or Amazon?
???
confused.gif

Wish I knew the answer to that. I actually got banned for life from audiokarma for simply telling someone to look on eBay, and suggesting some key words for his search to find replacement lamps for an amplifier he was repairing, when he started a thread asking where to find the same lamps. Oddly, the thread was already 3 pages long with other people referring him to various sites with direct links.. Nobody else got banned. Go figure.
post #2083 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Nope. Nothing wrong with wall plates if you like wall plates and wires. Most wives cringe and cry at the sight of plates and wires all over their living room walls; low WAF. And if they're not crying on the outside, they're darn sure crying on the inside.
As to hanging stuff from sheetrock with only air behind it, the rock solid way to do so is: install a 3/16 inch, three inch long toggle bolt. To the toggle bolt, between the head of the toggle bolt and the butterfly, thread on a nut and then add a 3/16" fender washer. Now you have the toggle butterfly on the inside of the wall and the fender washer locked in place with the accompanying lock nut and after the lock nut is tightened into place, the toggle bolt can be threaded in and out of the wall to suit your speaker hanger distance, from wallboard to back of speaker wall hanger. There's only one way this setup will fail and that's if you want it to fail. No need to have to find a stud.
FWIW, to easily repair an opening in sheetrock, get four inch wide strips of 1/4" plywood which are cut eight inches longer then the opening being closed. Center the plywood strips behind the existing sheet rock and screw into place with course thread sheetrock screws. Use two strips, one on each side of the opening being repaired. Cut a piece of matching thickness wallboard to fit the opening and screw into place using similar sheetrock anchors. Take a box cutter knife and score the old wallboard around the opening about an inch and a half back from the opening. Remove old paper with a standard putty knife to create a trough in which to embed the seaming tape. Allow taping mud to dry, then top with a second coat and when dry, use canned knockdown spray texture to texture match the existing wall texture when finished. When the texture coat is dry, primer the repair and paint to match.
It tain't no thang if you're not a wire and plate kinds guy or a guy who likes to do stuff with a high WAF. Don't want no Dear Anne Landers letters sent in to the editor.
"Dear Anne Landers"
You wouldn't believe what my husband did to my living room today.
Signed
You've got to be kidding.
Nope, no Anne Landers' letters for this old man.
-
Man, you do it the hard way. I just get a square piece of step flashing, mud the back, press it on, and tape and mud the front. A couple of skim coats and a little texture and you're done!biggrin.gif
post #2084 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool View Post

Ya, but the hole is slightly too big. I like my holes tight!

Something like this feed-through bushing?

http://amzn.to/PhHewF
post #2085 of 3539
Thread Starter 
I'm glad to see this thread alive and well. I'm very impressed with some of the cables you guys are making! I really like those Emotiva plugs....I should have bought a bunch while they were on sale. UGH
post #2086 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure-Evil View Post

I'm glad to see this thread alive and well. I'm very impressed with some of the cables you guys are making! I really like those Emotiva plugs....I should have bought a bunch while they were on sale. UGH

Well they have a promotion running right now and you can save 10% using code LOVE2012

Not much, but at least is a discount..........wink.gif
post #2087 of 3539
Hey everyone,

I am not new to making wires ( I used to re-cable headphones) So I know the basics, But I never was able to get a good result with tech flex it was always stiff and see through. That is (I believe) because I was using too small a size. So now I know to go big.

My situation is this: I am going to make my own cables so they are beautiful smile.gif instead of the translucent lamp cord I have now. My initial thought was to use 12 AWG 4 conductor but I cant seem to find a good source at a price I can live with... Monoprice is ~ $.60 per ft but they only sell it in 100 ft spools and I don't need that much Only about 40ft. I want to use 4c so I only have to see one cable rather than two in the long side of the room to the rears. 12 AWG 4c would be the best solution IMO but I can't justify the cost of that silly 100ft spool.

Here is my new plan and what I need the experts opinion on. I want to wind two 2C wires together (makeshift 4C) and then cover that wind in techflex. What would fit better/ look better, Lamp Cord or the CL/2? Also other recommendations on how to solve my desire to have a single wire running down my wall...?
Edited by Nick_si - 9/24/12 at 11:28am
post #2088 of 3539
Thread Starter 
What I am using now is very thick rubber coated power cord (4x10gauge) that I buy from an electrical contractor store. It's about $1.00 per foot..but is 3/4" thick and looks awesome. that might work for you.
post #2089 of 3539
I'm looking for a bit of advice before I buy extra parts.
I've got 16 gauge regular speaker wire from monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023903&p_id=2793&seq=1&format=2 and monoprice banana plugs as well.

I wanted to get some techflex and cablepants and some heatshrink tubing to make a basic but nice looking wire.
I'm just not sure what widths to get for the techflex and cablepants.

Does anyone have a suggestion for the 16 gauge non in-wall speaker wire? I was thinking 1/2" Techflex and 10mm Cable pants, but that may be too loose and i don't want saggy wires smile.gif

Thanks in advance.
post #2090 of 3539
Thread Starter 
that will be WAY too loose. I would suggest no bigger than 1/4" but maybe even smaller. 1/2" will be very messy looking
post #2091 of 3539
Hey guys, read a fair bit of the thread, but 70 pages is alot. I was wondering if i could get some help or info. I am looking at making some bi-wire cables. I know i can get the Knukonceptz biwire cable pants for one end and the regular cable pants for the other end. Here are my questions. I have monoprice in wall speaker cable already. I don't want to buy more cable since I already have it. So i was looking at basically putting 2 sets of the wire in the sleeving.

1. How thick of sleeving do i need if i will be putting essentially 2 sets of wires in one sleeve? I know the recommended was 1/2" i believe which will not show the white cover of the monoprice cables.
2. For the end that will be connected to the receiver, how big would the cable pants need to be for that end?

Lastly, not as important as above, i didn't read the whole thread. Is there any info on how to make your own RCA cables?

Thanks!
post #2092 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Hey guys, read a fair bit of the thread, but 70 pages is alot. I was wondering if i could get some help or info. I am looking at making some bi-wire cables. I know i can get the Knukonceptz biwire cable pants for one end and the regular cable pants for the other end. Here are my questions. I have monoprice in wall speaker cable already. I don't want to buy more cable since I already have it. So i was looking at basically putting 2 sets of the wire in the sleeving.
1. How thick of sleeving do i need if i will be putting essentially 2 sets of wires in one sleeve? I know the recommended was 1/2" i believe which will not show the white cover of the monoprice cables.
2. For the end that will be connected to the receiver, how big would the cable pants need to be for that end?
Lastly, not as important as above, i didn't read the whole thread. Is there any info on how to make your own RCA cables?
Thanks!

Its going to be very very thick. I would suggest buying 4 conductor cable and doing it the correct way.
3/8 is the ideal size for 12 gauge 2 conductor. I have used it also on 4 conductor.
The cable pants will need to be 10mm on 2 conductor and 11mm for 4 conductor 12 gauge.

the size depends on the gauge wire you are using
post #2093 of 3539
Can anyone help me out with this. I need to buy some cable pants to do my 12 gauge clear wire speaker cable that I got from monoprice. Which one of these will it work for 12 gauga speaker wire. thanks.

http://www.parts-express.com/term/speaker-cable-pants?srch=speaker+cable+pants
post #2094 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post

Can anyone help me out with this. I need to buy some cable pants to do my 12 gauge clear wire speaker cable that I got from monoprice. Which one of these will it work for 12 gauga speaker wire. thanks.
http://www.parts-express.com/term/speaker-cable-pants?srch=speaker+cable+pants

I use 10mm pants on monoprice 12 gauge in wall wire. Any smaller and the pants get tight and you can see bulges.
post #2095 of 3539
^^^

that is just TOO easy of a set up there... tongue.gif
post #2096 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
that is just TOO easy of a set up there... tongue.gif

huh?confused.gif
post #2097 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
that is just TOO easy of a set up there... tongue.gif

biggrin.gif
post #2098 of 3539
^^^

at least someone "got it"... biggrin.gif
post #2099 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

I use 10mm pants on monoprice 12 gauge in wall wire. Any smaller and the pants get tight and you can see bulges.

Thanks. I will be ordering some now.
post #2100 of 3539
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
that is just TOO easy of a set up there... tongue.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post

huh?confused.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by holt7153 View Post

biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
at least someone "got it"... biggrin.gif

AHHHHHHHHHHH, I just read what i wrote. LOL

Well it is true though, too tight of pants and you DO get bulges.
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