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New Layout with sub on rear riser?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I've been playing around in sketchup and have been toying with adding a second row. The room is 17' deep and 20' wide with 7'1" finished ceiling using clips and DD with GG. I have a low support beam that is only 6'3" finished height that runs behind the main seating as shown. The projector would need to be mounted behind the beam and low. Since it's low I don't want people hitting it so I thought about putting my sub (SVS PB12 plus2) under it on top of the riser. I don't have room behind the screen wall so it would need to be in one of the front corners if not.

The extra six seats are nice but may cause more problems than they are worth with low head room. I would modify the riser so you don't step up until you are already on the other side of the beam.

I plan on 7.1 with 6" corner bass traps and 2" panels around the room that will be backlit with rope lights.

Any thoughts?
LL
LL
post #2 of 10
Interesting layout, question, what is the distance between the screen wall to the beam? If around 12'~13' then I think you could rotate it 90 degree and box the beam in in soffit which would still give you like 15' width and you can build a soffit on the other side to match it, then you could have a like 15'x20' room which is a very nice size room for dedicated theater. No sure if it make sense but just throw some idea.
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
I've gone round and round on this one. The beam is 13' from the screen. If I box it in I would only have 6'3" ceiling height under beams on both sides of the room meaning you would have to duck everytime you walked around your chair. Matching the soffit on the other side would only give me about 9' of clear space between the beams.

What you can't see is a stacked duct run behind the screen. The ducts take up the top 30" of the wall then I have an opening for the LCR. Think of it as a 10' wide by 5' tall fireplace that is 18" deep behind the screen.

The wide layout is not typical but gives me 6 seats across and a 120" wide 2.40:1 screen.
post #4 of 10
Yeah, it is tough, 6'1" under the beam is quite low, my basement is standard 8' which is actually 7'8" and under the beam is 83" and I did clips+DD on ceiling but not on soffit, so finished height on ceiling is like 7'6" and under soffit (also boxed in the beam) is 81".

If you load up some actual basement pictures in that area and we can get a better idea.
post #5 of 10
I don't think you should do a second row. Maybe put in bar seats for a second row in an overflow situation, but the height is a real problem unless you are kid-sized. You could also do bean bags or very short seats in front for overflow and then store them behind your row all other times.

I'm assuming you have built the room. If not, I would recommend raising the beam into the joist space if possible.
post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post
I don't think you should do a second row. Maybe put in bar seats for a second row in an overflow situation, but the height is a real problem unless you are kid-sized. You could also do bean bags or very short seats in front for overflow and then store them behind your row all other times.

I'm assuming you have built the room. If not, I would recommend raising the beam into the joist space if possible.

I have not started the theater but there is no possible way to raise the beam into the joist space. The joists are sitting perpendicular on the beam which is the reason for the beam. Am I missing something?

Also the height above the chairs will be 6'1" with a 12" riser. A 10" riser would give me 6'3" so it wouldn't be too bad in terms of walking to your chair. It would be used mostly for children since it's just overflow. I looked at bar seating and it's still an option. I think any seats in front of the recliners would block the picture from the projector.
post #7 of 10
You can cut the joists above the beam and put the beam into that space. Then hang the joists on the beam. I did it in my build. It is an option.

If you have 7'+ over the floor in the back row, then you can go with taller seating (doesn't need a riser) or a mini riser (does not come out more than a 1' in front of the seating. Also can be stepped so you only get to full height right in front of the seating. MKTheater does that for his rear row and it works.
post #8 of 10
So the height under the beam is actually 6'1" + 12" = 7'1"?
post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
The finished height under the beam is actually 6'3". I made a typo above and I'll edit the post. The ceiling steps back up to 7'1" on both sides of the beam.

I was thinking mini riser with limited room in front of the seats. I'll have about 42" for the width of the riser

Cutting the joist and hanging them off the beam is interesting. Did you have an I beam? What did you use to hange the joists from the beam? Any pictures? I think it's more than I want to get into but I'm curious.
post #10 of 10
I had to remove a support in the middle of the future room, so I replaced a wooden beam (4 2x8s) with a steel I beam. I ripped the 2x8s to fit inside the I beam and then hung the joists on the 2x8s. I have a bunch of pics in my build thread. I did it all myself in about a week, but it was a bit (!) of work. For my room, it took the bottom of my beam from 76" to 83" (finished room around 81"), so it was necessary and very worth it.

A mini riser is probably a good idea for you, but it depends on how much money and time you are putting into the room. If you are trying to get away with a $5k build, it is a different situation than a $100k build.
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