Nick's Homebrew Bar and Entertainment Area - Page 26
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Basically same for small run HT usage.....
Whereas Category 6 cable has a reduced maximum length when used for 10GBASE-T; Category 6a cable, or Augmented Category 6, is characterized to 500 MHz and has improved alien crosstalk characteristics, allowing 10GBASE-T to be run for the same distance as previous protocols.
like most earlier twisted-pair cable, Category 6 cable contains four twisted wire pairs. Attenuation, near end crosstalk (NEXT), and PSNEXT (power sum NEXT) in Cat 6 cable and connectors are all significantly lower than Cat 5 or Cat 5e, which uses 24 AWG wire. The increase in performance with Cat 6 comes mainly from increased (22 AWG) wire size.[note 1]
The heavier wire in some Cat 6 cables makes them too thick to attach to standard 8P8C connectors without a special modular piece, resulting in a technically out-of-compliance assembly. Because the conductor sizes are generally the same, Cat 6 jacks may also be used with Cat 5e cable.
The biggest change in the theater is getting all of the MDF hung on the underside of the soffits and the boards for the light tray attached. The process was the same as the one small soffit I previously documented:
- I attached the underside
- cut the holes for the lights
- glued and clamped the light tray
- filled the screw holes
- lots of sanding and finishing
The sides were pretty straight forward, so I did those first with the help of my son. For the portion above the stage, I waited until my friend came over on Friday and we made 4' sections and pre drilled and hung them in place. We then drew the curve, removed the pieces one at a time, cut the edge and re-attached each piece before moving on to the next. Once all of the pieces were in place, we rounded over the edges using a small lightweight router.
I still have some sanding to do above the stage. In addition, I didn't finish the soffit in the back left corner of the room yet because I wanted to install the HDMI cable for the projector and get the power bridge completed before putting everything in place. I am just waiting for the HDMI cable to come in from monoprice and I can finish it up.
I would have started installing the veneer on the sides, but I was asking the veneer supplier about the corners and my concern over them potentially splitting. The recommended using a veneer softener before bending the wood around the corners. I ordered it last week and it should be here tomorrow. Then I can continue with the veneer installation.
I also began terminating all of my wiring. All of the wires are now trimmed and most of the connectors are installed. I discovered that I forgot to order the RJ45 keystones for the data ports when I placed my original order, so now I need to wait for those to arrive before I can finish up.
Behind the screen:
In the rack closet:
The 3 boxes on the left on the back wall are for the whole house sound. I ran wiring for 2 speakers and a control panel to 11 rooms. I ran the wiring 11 years ago and the original plan was to have the wiring terminated in a different spot in this portion of the basement. I had originally run extra length of wiring so that I could terminate them later, but with the move to this corner, all but one set was long enough. You can see in the picture where I had to splice the cable from one room to extend it into the box. I was actually quite pleased that this was my only issue considering I had no idea how the wiring would be used down the road.
I also trimmed up the last of the electrical wiring that was run into the switch boxes below the panel All that remains is to run the wiring from the panel to the boxes for each circuit. I am planning to install z-wave switches in the back of the theater below the panel and a z-wave scene controller by the door. Initially I plan to install cheap $1 switches for testing until I get everything else wrapped up. Then I will order the switches as one of the final steps.
My lighting will be broken into the following zones:
front, behind screen - 4 4" 50 watt halogen
front, screen wash - 4 4" 50 watt halogen
sides - 8 4" 50 watt halogen (4 per side)
rear - 2 4" 50 watt halogen
step lights - 2 tbd (1 per step)
rope light - tbd (considering RGB LED lighting).
To wrap things up for the week, I measured all of the walls so I can get ready to order the materials for my wall treatments. Hopefully I will get the OC 703 ordered this week. I haven't made a final decision on the GOM fabric yet, so that may have to wait until I finish the columns and come up with a final design.
Overall it was a successful week. I finished most of what I wanted to. I hope to knock out most of the veneering this coming weekend so that I can start on the columns. The one part that has me worried is wrapping the veneer from the underside of the stage soffit up and around the curved portion. I think I am going to call the veneer supplier and ask what the best way to do it is. I hope I don't have to cut and fit the pieces. I would like to have it be continuous.
One final note, if I don't post for several days, please search all of the local mental institutions so that you can come save me. I have this strange feeling that my family is plotting to have me locked up. they keep talking about how I have lost it and how I am crazy whenever I talk to them about the theater.
- 6,028 Posts. Joined 12/2005
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************One final note, if I don't post for several days, please search all of the local mental institutions so that you can come save me. I have this strange feeling that my family is plotting to have me locked up. they keep talking about how I have lost it and how I am crazy whenever I talk to them about the theater.
I understand exactly your concern. This HT thing certainly is an "itus" or a "phrenia" of some sort. My wife thought I was nuts for a very long time (still does I think). Especially with as long as it took and as much time I spent on this forum.
This too shall pass! Good luck.
Happy New Year!
Edited by RTROSE - 1/1/13 at 5:45pm
Thanks GWCR. I am a little nervous about the curve above the stage, but hopefully it will turn out well. If I can pull it off, I think it will look fantastic.
I am only running one, but I have a 2" conduit between the rack and the projector and it is only 60" away, so it will be easy to pull a new cable in the future if it is needed.
I also ran the same 2" conduit to the front of the theater and have a nylon rope that I can use to pull future cables through. I already used it once when I decided to add an extra cat5 cable behind the screen. I just pulled a second rope through with it and I am ready for the next change.
WARNING: I use the HotLink XL in my living room. It appeared that a lengthy Cat6 cable did NOT work with it. The one that came int he box only like 2 ft long, worked fine. Be careful, it's only a $50-100 unit anyway, there is probably another ethernet solution that works better, but hotlink XL gets way too many high reviews on amazon...
Late to the HotLink discussion..
I am running a 50ft cat6 cable from behind my screen to the back of my room to the hotlink and it runs great. Very quick and responsive. I agree that the problems are potentially pinout/matching of all the different cables in the path, because it is REALLY easy to get pairs swapped out.
Note that the little cable they give you only has 2 pairs wired (I tested it), with no interference shielding. If THAT works, a proper Cat6 cable under 300ft should rock.
I am going to double check my math this weekend and then I may see if I can get a friend with a truck to ride down there with me next week to pick up it up.
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It's always exciting when you find a bargain. Were you specifically asking for OC703 or just 3pcf rigid insulation board? When trying to track down a local source for my stuff, I was finding that OC703 was consistently higher than some of the other alternatives. It might be worth asking this supplier if they carry other brands (Certainteed, Knauf).
I asked each of them if they carried Owens Corning 703 or something similar. All of the places I called knew what it was. Some had OC 703 or equivalent in stock. The others said they could order it. The place I am going to buy it from said "We absolutely have it. It is a staple item. How much do you need." I asked about alternatives, but they said that due to the volumes they sell of OC703, it is actually cheaper. I can get 24 pieces of the 1" for just under what the cheapest online place wanted for 12 pieces shipped.
The only other option I may consider is Linacoustic for behind the screen since it is already black and comes in large rolls. The only issue is that I don't know if there is an acoustic difference if I use LInacoustic instead of OC703. I will have to do a search and see what I can find out.
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The other was
NEVER ZIP TIE ANYTHING. Especially after my Russound fiasco. For anyone reading or that cares - Velcro, Conduit, Condiut AND finally CONDUIT! This is from someone in their brand new home after only 4 years.
The curve above my stage is both a blessing and a curse (or at least there have been many curse words spoken while making it ). The stage was easier, but working on the overhead curve has been a challenge. It isn't perfect, but I am hoping no one will comment on it. The biggest challenge yet is going to be the veneer. I haven't quite figured out how I am going to do the compound curve.
Great advice on the conduit. I have a 2" conduit running to the front of the theater and to the projector. I have already added a wire and am very glad it is there. It would be really nice to have a way to add/remove wires to the rest of the house.
I wish I could have picked the pieces of veneer so that I could select the pieces that matched the best. You can see in the photo below that the one piece is darker than the other. I am hoping the stain helps blend them better.
These photos show how dusty the ceiling got while sanding the mdf. I will have to go back through and use a brush attached to the shop vac to clean it up.
I plan to do some tests on blending the joints to make them less obvious. I am looking at some glues that you put in the joint and then sand the wood before they dry to fill in the gap. Hopefully this will work well.
Before I can order the materials for the soffit above the stage, I need to finish the columns so I know how much more material is needed. Hopefully this weekend I will have some time to work on them.
Also theater related - I have been working on my media storage server. I built an Unraid server that contains 8TB of storage right now. I have slowly started ripping DVDs to the server so that I can stream them throughout the house. I have also made the decision to use a Dune server in the theater for streaming audio and video stored on the network. I got a really great deal on one. It should arrive later this week.
I did some research on screens this weekend. I have been leaning towards a curved screen, but based on my layout/measurements, I am right on the edge. I could really go either way. Now I just need to decide if I want to spend the extra money. Opinions?
My friend picked up my OC703 for me today. I was really excited to find it locally for a great price, but when he called me after he picked it up, it got even better. They gave him an additional 15% off since he is a contractor. With all of the talk about spending more money, that was something I was happy to hear. Unfortunately, the savings will barely put a small dent in my upcoming purchases.
This is me all over. I even have a set of the coveted specially-coated glass prisms, and I specifically designed my room with the PJ on a table in the back room (as opposed to hanging it) so I can play with the prisms / tweak it / etc.
Meantime, PJs are getting better and brighter. I just turned on my Panny AE8000 last month and it is automatically zooming back and forth from my 'scope movies and the Fibe TV. It looks awesome.
Using the prisms would probably make it even better but the level of brightness and quality using the Panny zoom is so good that I had actually forgotten that the prism project was on my list. In other words, there is nothing in the quality that is offending me enough to put it ahead of something else. I am very happy with it, and the ease-of-use is great. (note: I have a long throw (18.5') so a screen curve probably would not be as significant for shorter throws, so I could get away with staying flat for now.)
The budget thing is the other killer. Both money and time. This is something you can upgrade later with little penalty if you decide for sure this is the path you want. In the meantime, i) get something running, ii) enjoy some movies, iii) upgrade and improve as you go. This is exactly the path I took with masking: Yes I really want automated masking, and it does bug me a bit ... but for little effort I can get some simple curtains going so that the family can enjoy the theatre while I figure out what I am doing. Otherwise I would be still working on that in a dark room.
I would guess it would be the minority of people here that "finished" their theatre and then didn't tweak it constantly.
Just my 2c.
The funny thing is, no matter how much I stress over these decisions, 99% of the people who visit my theater will never know the difference. I don't think any friends will be walking in and asking "why didn't you get the 50' radius on your curved screen instead of the 40' radius"?
Not a lot of progress over the past week. I have been taking care of some of the small tasks that remain.
One problem that I need to solve is how to cover the front wall. I will be installing 2" of OC 703 across the front wall. I was hoping to cover the wall with black acoustic fabric to black out the wall and to contain any loose fibers. The issue is that I need something around 72" wide to cover the wall in a single piece with no seams. GOM is only 66" wide. Does anyone know if there is another acoustic fabric that will cover this width? I'm guessing my only other option is to sew two pieces together and have a seem. I am not too worried about it matching the rest of the walls since it won't really be seen, but I don't want to waste a bunch of fabric to get a really narrow strip.