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Nick's Homebrew Bar and Entertainment Area - Page 27

post #781 of 1047
Parts Express Grill Cloth is 70". That's the biggest I'm aware of.

You could also take a look at burlap. For the couple bucks a yard that it costs, I don't think waste would be a big issue.
Edited by BllDo - 1/24/13 at 7:42am
post #782 of 1047
Black muslin will work nicely. You can find it on the bay in various dimensions. It's also inexpensive (but not fire-resistant)

Look for 'muslin' or 'photography backdrop'

Tim
post #783 of 1047
Is muslin transparent enough to be used for acoustical purposes?
post #784 of 1047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

Is muslin transparent enough to be used for acoustical purposes?

 

I was wondering the same thing.  Also, I am guessing it would be better to use something that is fire retardant.

post #785 of 1047
http://www.rosebrand.com/product800/102-Black-Speaker-Cloth-FR.aspx?tid=2&info=speaker%2bcloth

It's black, 102" wide, flame-retardant and acoustically transparent. Plus it's cheap. I used it on my back wall to keep the shiny FSK facing on my acoustic treatments from showing through the fabric panels.
post #786 of 1047
Thread Starter 

Thanks Spaceman.  That looks like it would work well.  It says "good acoustical qualities".  How thick is it?  Would it pass the "blow" test?  I also didn't see where it says that it is fire resistant.  If it is, I think I will order it.

post #787 of 1047
The red "FR" next to the name indicates fire-retardant. Under the pic of the sample is a link to the fire-retardant information.

I was expecting something a little thinner, since "speaker cloth" was part of the name. However, it does seem to pass the blow test and appears easier to blow through than GOM Anchorage or some other fabrics that have been used to cover acoustic panels.

Forgive me for not reading your thread more carefully, but you intend to use this behind your false wall to cover your front wall treatments, correct? If so, I think it will work just fine. I don't think I'd use it to cover speakers but for covering treatments, I think you're good.
post #788 of 1047
That looks like good stuff. Thanks Spaceman.

Edit: Ouch, shipping is little much, but still cheap for FR.
Edited by BllDo - 1/24/13 at 1:16pm
post #789 of 1047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

That looks like good stuff. Thanks Spaceman.

Edit: Ouch, shipping is little much, but still cheap for FR.

 

How much were you quoted for shipping?  My quote was $15 for 10 yards (haven't ordered yet).

post #790 of 1047
Mine was $15 too, but I only ordered three yards, so it was 50% again of my order.
post #791 of 1047
Just make sure you get the flame resistance certificate with the cloth. It looks like they are treating it in-house (which is fine).

Muslin is fine acoustically.. if you search AVS it comes up a few times.. including a post by Ethan Winer. But, as cautioned, not FR.

Tim
post #792 of 1047
I used that RoseBrand black speaker cloth as the speaker "grill" faces to my columns, in front of surround speakers - works great. I was surprised at Spaceman's comment "I was expecting something a little thinner" - mine was quite sheer, I was initially concerned that I might be able to see through it, but that turned out to not be the case. I wonder if the material has changed (mine was a year earlier), or we just had different expectations?
post #793 of 1047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Just make sure you get the flame resistance certificate with the cloth.

Why is this?
post #794 of 1047
Brad - I remember reading your description of the fabric and seeing that you used it in front of your speakers. That's when I thought they must have sent me the wrong stuff. For what I needed it for, it didn't really matter but it's probably worth requesting a sample to see if it will work for you, Nick.

Here are some pics of what they sent me. Does it look like your fabric, Brad?

Front



Front-closeup



Back
post #795 of 1047
Sure looks different - especially the back, I think the stuff I have looks pretty much the same from both sides, vs. having a fuzzy side like you showed.

Front - parts express speaker cloth left, Rose Brand on the right:

IMG_0115.JPG

with some back lighting (hence my initial concern re: visual transparency):

IMG_0116.JPG
post #796 of 1047
Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

Why is this?

Because if you're paying for the fire-resistance, the only way they can prove that to you is by furnishing the certificate. It's treated in-house, not by the manufacturer. Are you getting a cut from the treated roll of fabric or the untreated role?

IF FR is of concern then get the certificate. It costs nothing and assures you got what you paid for.

If you got 701, it's FR from GOM.. I don't think anybody doubts the rating. This, on the other hand, is a no-name fabric from a company in NY. Not to say they are not trustworthy (hey, I'm from NY), but certainly they're not GOM caliber.

Tim
post #797 of 1047
Good info. Thanks.
post #798 of 1047
Thread Starter 

I didn't have much time to work on the theater this weekend. I am going to be extremely busy between now and the beginning of next week.  I am using the bits of time I do have to do some planning.

 

My GOM samples should be in today.  I want to make some color decisions soon so I can start ordering the last of the materials.  I also ordered the cloth to cover the treatments behind the screen.  I went ahead and ordered the Rose brand speaker cloth.

 

One other decision I am trying to make is on my soffit lighting.  I would like to do a rope light, but I can't seem to find exactly what I want.  I would like to use color changing LEDs, but most of them are only 12 volts and have a very short length limit.  The 120 volt versions I have seen are extremely expensive.  I may have to use a standard rope light until I can find a better solution.  Does anyone have any suggestions for LED rope lights?  I would like to have one continuous rope around the entire room.

post #799 of 1047
Hey Nick, give me a call, I think I can help with your rope lights and point you in the right direction...
post #800 of 1047
Thread Starter 

Thanks Scott.  I will give you a call later.

post #801 of 1047
I assume one run because you can only supply power at one end?

You could also do something like this:


The problem with the 120v ropes is dimming. You're not supposed to dim a receptacle. You can cut the plug off a rope, but you void the UL listing. I went with the 12v LEDs so I wouldn't have to deal with that.

Maybe there are some hard-wire 120v solutions?

Tim
post #802 of 1047
Thread Starter 

Well, the super bowl is finally over and I actually have time to think about the theater again.  Time to kick this thing into gear or else I won't have anything done by my deadline.

 

Yesterday I started on the front wall behind the screen.  I framed out the wall with some 2x2 strips so that I would have something to staple the fabric to.  I then primed and painted the soffit area that will be behind the screen.  I want everything behind the screen to be black so that nothing shows through the AT screen.  I ended up using the Rosco black paint.

 

Once that was dry, I applied 2" OC 703 across the entire front wall.

 

 

 

I fastened the OC 703 using 3" screws and fender washers

 

 

 

I then covered the entire wall in speaker cloth.  I ended going with the Rose brand since it was wide enough to cover the entire wall with one piece and was a lot less expensive that GOM.  I stapled everything in place with an upholstery stapler then I went back and trimmed the entire wall.  Sorry for the poor picture quality.  The flash really picked up the dust in the room.

 

 

 

 

 

I am extremely happy with the results.  The fabric I received is extremely black and looks great.  The only thing I need to do is go over the piece with a steamer to try to get the wrinkle out where the fabric was folded for shipping.  It runs the length of the wall.  It isn't terrible, but I want to see if I can get rid of it.

 

With the exception of the phone line, I am done with the wiring behind my rack.  I now have everything that is needed in place.

 

 

 

I finally cut the drywall for the front and side of the rack closet.  I installed the side, but am holding off on the front until I make sure I have everything installed correctly for the rack opening.

 

 

 

 

I have 6 switches installed below the sub-panel to control the lights.  I just put cheap $1 switches for now, but these will be replaced by zwave dimmers so that I can automate them.  I didn't want to have a big bank of switches at the front of the theater, so I put them in the back and will have a scene controller as you enter the room.

 

I hope to knock out some odds and ends this week and then get started on my columns next weekend.  

post #803 of 1047
Everything is looking great, Nick. You can get a flush-mount cover for your panel that has flanges to hide the edge of the drywall, if necessary.

Tim
post #804 of 1047
Thread Starter 

Thanks Tim.  I plan to make some sort of hinged cover or removable panel for the sub-panel so that you don't see it.  I used adjustable boxes for the switches so that I could extend them out if necessary.

post #805 of 1047
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

One other decision I am trying to make is on my soffit lighting.  I would like to do a rope light, but I can't seem to find exactly what I want.  I would like to use color changing LEDs, but most of them are only 12 volts and have a very short length limit.  The 120 volt versions I have seen are extremely expensive.  I may have to use a standard rope light until I can find a better solution.  Does anyone have any suggestions for LED rope lights?  I would like to have one continuous rope around the entire room.

We bought rolls of plain old 120V rope lighting on the after-Christmas sales and strung them together. Split the run in two, but it is on the same circuit, so they are controlled together. They are not LED, but the price was right, and I can easily swap them out down the road if I want.
post #806 of 1047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geordon View Post

We bought rolls of plain old 120V rope lighting on the after-Christmas sales and strung them together. Split the run in two, but it is on the same circuit, so they are controlled together. They are not LED, but the price was right, and I can easily swap them out down the road if I want.

We also loaded up on rope lights after Christmas. Sams Club had gobs of them and they were mostly LED too smile.gif
post #807 of 1047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geordon View Post


We bought rolls of plain old 120V rope lighting on the after-Christmas sales and strung them together. Split the run in two, but it is on the same circuit, so they are controlled together. They are not LED, but the price was right, and I can easily swap them out down the road if I want.

That's an excellent idea.  At this point, I will probably do something like this since it is much cheaper and upgrade in the future.  I found some 120V LED rope lights, but they are single color and very expensive.  Single color incandescent will be fine for now.

 

do you dim yours? 

post #808 of 1047
Thread Starter 

Out of curiosity, which should I do first - carpet or wall treatments? Is there much of a risk of damage to the wall treatments during carpet install?  I was planning to do carpet last, but wasn't sure which is most commonly done first.

post #809 of 1047
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Out of curiosity, which should I do first - carpet or wall treatments? Is there much of a risk of damage to the wall treatments during carpet install?  I was planning to do carpet last, but wasn't sure which is most commonly done first.
Depends on how you are doing the treatments to some extent. In rooms I work with, we are usually doing QuestAI acoustical treatments and fabric track, and there is usually some mill work involved. My method is to paint/finish millwork, install track, install fiberglass, clean up, install carpet, install fabric. The carpet people will scuff up your baseboard (and other mill work). It is more problematic if you have dark or black painted surfaces that shw every mark. I recommend using 36" wide construction paper from Home Depot and masking the mill work and lower wall immediately before the carpet people come. Once installed, remove the masking. This sequence keeps the FG out of the carpet, the carpet from scratching the mill work, and the keeps the fabric from being damaged through any of it.


Here's a photo of my own walls with mill work masked before carpet...


Scott
Edited by GetGray - 2/13/13 at 7:07am
post #810 of 1047
Thread Starter 

I got a few things done in the theater this weekend, but first I should provide an update on some of my recent decisions.

 

I was recently reviewing the complete basement project and trying to determine what remained to finish.  It didn't take me long to figure out that I am way over budget.  Yes, I saved money on many things, but I also upgraded or added many things.  With that said, I decided I was going to have to make some changes if I wanted to finish the theater any time soon.

 

One of the biggest expenses in my theater was going to be my speakers.  I had previously mentioned that I was planning to buy a complete set of Salk speakers for my theater.  This seemed like an obvious place to make some changes.  By selecting different speakers, I could get the budget back on track.  More importantly, I could always upgrade in the future once the wallet has recovered.

 

After doing lots of research, I decided I could get the most bang for the buck by going DIY in the short term.  I can build a very high quality speaker for a fraction of the price.  I finally decided to build a set of SEOS speakers for my theater.  Here is what I will be using:

 

Left/Center/Right: Fusion 12 Tempest

Surrounds (4): Fusion 8 Alchemy

Subs (2): 15" MK III Titanic

 

I spent some time over the past week gluing up the cabinets.  They still need to be sanded, filled and painted, but things are moving along.  Here are a couple of photos of the build:

 

Surrounds:

 

 

'

Subs:

 

 

 

Mains:

 

 

1000

 

 

And here is the full set of cabinets:

 

 

 

I am really looking forward to completing them, but for now, I will likely focus on the room itself.

 

My son and I also spent about an hour on the table saw cutting up all of the main pieces for my columns.  I laid everything out ahead of time so we wouldn't have to stand outside in the cold any longer than necessary (it was 14 degrees here today).  Hopefully I can start assembling the columns this week.  My plan is to have 4 main columns at the rear of the theater for the surrounds and two "false" columns in the front of the theater that will only house some switches and balance the look of the room.  The front two columns will look the same, but won't be quite as deep.

 

 

I also started working on the panel size and layout for my walls.  I have a pretty good idea of what I want it to look like.  I just need to finalize the exact dimensions.

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