Quote:
Pretty much 100% of the keys you buy are not legit. Well they are legit keys but they are from a tech net subscription and could get blacklisted at anytime.

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Personally I don't like the swivel.
What about something like this? http://www.scan.co.uk/products/15m-r...gen-free-1080p |
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Originally Posted by assassin
Try to disconnect 1 or 2 and monitor your temps. You might not need all of them. If you stay in the low 50s (C) you are fine. Also in my FAQ is a way to change the speed of fans based on what rail they are connected to. These aren't the PCs of even a few years ago. They run cool and use very little power. |
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Yeah I read the FAQ thanks, very clear explanations. I just wanted to maintain the maximum cooling capability if possible. My system temps seem fine but it's the ceton cable tuner that concerns me. The manufacturer mentioned 90% of the problems with this card result of overheating and I have no way of monitoring it's actual temperature so I definitely want to error on the side of caution with this.
Going back to that cable, doesn't it take the power from the psu connector and only uses the CPU header for rpm & pwm feedback? |
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ok here we go.....
i've been playing with the idea of creating a little master piece for myself for a while, only problem is i'm probably nuts and not in the loop as much as i used to be so its getting pretty heavy going and im at the point where i need some serious help... from reading this post and others your an expert on the parts im using. project is to try and fit all this into antec mini skeleton which will be modified as much as needs be: asus E350m1-i or similar mobo 3x 2.5" hdd 1x 2.5" ssd 8Gb ram ddr3 1600 with xigmatek dragoon n422 ram cooler. you said this sort of setup never needs more than 4Gb but how about 4Gb to be used as ramdrive, maybe? Sony BD-Combo Slim SATA Slot Load optical drive 2x graphics cards in sli on a multiple active flexible pci riser setup with thermalright spitfire or similar heatsinks mounted so that each heatsink will sit on the outside of either side of the case. ( i know absolutely crazy ) i just love the way it would look shuttle silent 300w psu i have no idea right now how much power a set up like this might need all i know is the psu needs to be fanless and ultra small to fit within my dream im a keen amateur photographer so 1000s of hi def pics and do lots of work on photoshop, have a large music and video collection also small bit of gaming would be nice plus the usual email/surfing/streaming... is it complete overkill? will it even work? all help and ideas welcome thanks in advance |
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2x graphics cards in sli on a multiple active flexible pci riser setup with thermalright spitfire or similar heatsinks mounted so that each heatsink will sit on the outside of either side of the case. ( i know absolutely crazy )
i just love the way it would look |
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So I've pretty much got my build together now & almost ready to pull the trigger on my order... Big thanks to Assassin - Will Paypal you something as you've saved me £££ on some of the choices !
Case - Lian Li PC-C33B £140.80 CPU - i3 2100 SandyBridge £93.76 Mobo - Gigabyte GA-H67A-UD3H-B3 Intel H67 Express Socket 1155 £111.20 PSU - Seasonic S12II-380 380W £55.02 SSD - Crucial 64GB RealSSD C300 SSD £86.46 HDD - 2TB WD20EARS C.Green, SATA 3Gb/s 5400rpm 64MB Cache £61.06 RAM - Corsair Memory XMS3 4GB DDR3 1333 Mhz CAS 8 Dual Channel £44.56 Wireless - Edimax EW-7722In 300Mbps Wireless 11n PCI Adapter £20.33 Blue Ray - LG Blu-Ray Writer, BH10LS30.AUAU, SATA, OEM £69.56 HDMI Cable - HDMI15-RS £7.07 [CPU Cooler & keyboard/mouse/tablet/remote controller - T.B.Decided] I'll be connecting the HTPC to my Panny P50V20, and ideally to my analogue amplifier & two stereo floor-stander speakers (I don't have a surround system or av recevier yet). Can anyone explain how I will actually connect into my analogue amplifier though? Looking at the pictures of the sockets on the MOBO, there doesn't seem to the usual red/white stereo outputs ? I'm guessing the MOBO only outputs a digital signal via the HDMI for both picture & sound directly into the TV... Checked the back of the TV & it has a red/white stereo out... So I reckon I just connect that output into the amp & hey presto it should work..... Right ??? |
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Yeah I read the FAQ thanks, very clear explanations. I just wanted to maintain the maximum cooling capability if possible. My system temps seem fine but it's the ceton cable tuner that concerns me. The manufacturer mentioned 90% of the problems with this card result of overheating and I have no way of monitoring it's actual temperature so I definitely want to error on the side of caution with this.
Going back to that cable, doesn't it take the power from the psu connector and only uses the CPU header for rpm & pwm feedback? |
| This is quite a common practice, particularly amongst gamers, where splitter cables are used to create chains of two or three PWM fans, A chain of PWM fans is driven by the CPU temperature. So it is a thermal control system and will be affected by other factors which affect CPU temperature including ambient temperature. At idle all the fans will run at a low speed, typically around 500 rpm. Under load all the fans will increase in speed. On gaming systems with high end graphics cards I have seen top speeds of around 1100 rpm on a fairly demanding game like Crysis Warhead. To some extent PWM fan chains are a more convenient alternative (and lower cost) alternative to a manual fan controller. Bear in mind that many gamers use large screen TVs rather than the traditional monitor, and also use wireless keyboards, mice and controllers. So they are not necessarily near to the PC, and need the automatic control that PWM chains bring. Both PWM chains and manual controllers involve fan speeds increasing as system loads increase. Particulary for gaming systems the increase in speed will not be apparent, since most gaming is fairly noisy. Also bear in mind that a PWM chain will increase fans speed if ambient temperatures rise. The problem with fixing fan speeds by resistor cables is where do you fix them. If you set it too low then components may run hotter than you want, and certainly there is a risk of over-heating if ambient temperatures increase as well. Fix fan speeds at around 800 rpm say, and it will result in more noise than a PWM chain at idle. Equally it may not be fast enough if you have a high performance graphics card. There is nothing to stop you from starting with a PWM fan chain using say the Akasa splitter cable, which takes power for all the fans from a molex and not the motherboard. If having tried it you decide you want manual fan control, you could keep the PWM chain and use software such as CPU ID HWMonitor Pro. Or you could still use resistors to set fan speeds to a specific level. Having tried all the options, I now use PWM chains on my own systems and those that I have built for my gaming relatives. Frankly it is the easiest and most economic method, and using resistors I could not even at 5v get fan speeds down to the levels that PWM will produce. I accept that some people simply don't like the idea of fans increasing in speed automatically. For them I still think the best option is to use a PWM chain and HWMonitor Pro (or SpeedFan) to fix speeds exactly where they like. This gives a lot more control than resistors, and is certainly cheaper and more convenient. |

| Combining the power of a PSU molex connection with the versatility of a PWM motherboard connection for the very first time the Akasa AK-CB002 is a unique product furthering the cause of quiet efficient computing. Supporting three PWM fans from a single motherboard header makes this the ultimate fan splitter for today’s low noise performance systems. Case fans and watercooling radiator fans can now benefit from smart and precise PWM control alongside the CPU fan. Utilising the intelligence of PWM for three fans enables multi fan connection and usage of more powerful fans while allowing their speed to be synchronized with CPU load. RPM feedback for the motherboard is provided from a connector marked CPU fan. Combined with akasa Smart&Cool series fans (PWM enabled) it is a smart and easy solution for building quiet performance systems. • Simple solution for quiet and smart fan control • Synchronizes three PWM fans with PC CPU usage • All connectors labelled for easy connection |

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this i want to be my all and everything HTPC, Photoshop Workstation, and all rounder.
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If you use a fan with its own thermal sensor, then the fan should be operated as an exhaust fan, in order to cool your system effectivvely.
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Thanks a lot for the info. I was doing a little digging in the meantime myself and I found this thermal fan on the Silverstone website:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/produc...ol121&area=usa Definitely looks like I'd be giving up some CFM's but the noise specs are very good (18dBA max), this case has 3 fans so perhaps it's not that big of a deal? Unfortunately I can't seem to get the original fan specs that came with the case to compare against. |


















