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92" Mitsubishi DLP @ CES!!! - Page 64

post #1891 of 1910
Quote:
Originally Posted by mobius View Post



Me as well. I own Mits all the way around- WD65737 and a HC3000 projector. I wish, wish, wish that Mits would get on the LED train though. It's well past time to dump the lamps.



mobius, it was my impression that Mits was using LED bulbs in their newer sets ???

The 61" Samsung i just sold was our main TV for approx 4 + years, but is developed the dreaded white dots. [16-18 of them]
It had the a LED bulb that i never had to replace.
It's case from the back outsiide looked just like a Mits... even down to the 3" or so peep covers on the slanted backsides...
It served us well.

Or were you talking about Mits converting over to the LED back or side lighting TV's with LCD screens, like all the other manufacturers have went to ?
post #1892 of 1910
It's not an LED bulb used in the Samsung LED DLPs, but a PT120 Phatlight chipset comprised of three (RGB) LEDs. It's because of the inclusion of the three colored LEDS that there was no need for a color wheel in these sets. Color wheels are necessary with bulb lit DLP in order to derive colors from the white light source.

Because the Mitsubishi Laservue uses three laser diodes (RGB) for its illumination, there is, again, no need for a color wheel.
post #1893 of 1910
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

I just went back and looked at my original reply and don't see anything defensive or argumentative about it - if you took it that way, then you have my apologies. There was certainly no intent other than to make it clear to people that it's a quality product.

My two unsolicited cents....
I happened to find a very high end Stereo Shop in So CA ( StereoDesign.com) which carries the finest gear on planet earth. I became a fan of Salamander Designs & the Snergy Line after seeing many of their units on display here. Granted, they are not cheap, but I now own over $2500 of Salamander gear and I am looking at the S10 Quad to set between my two Snergy Racks. I was jazzed to see pics on this as its the exact TV on the exact stand. Rather than argue the merits of perceived quality, I've enjoyed the infinitely adjustable shelves and flexibility of the system, which allows easy mods for system changes and new component sizes. So thanks to the original poster and lets not all get caught up in the banter. I happen to really like Salamander as you do. I'm someone took the time to post pics. I've yet to have a single person view my theater room and comment negatively. Even if they did, I didn't design, plan, or purchase anything to make anyone but me happy. There will always be different opinions. You and I, along with other owners can enjoy the quality, fit, finish of our gear. Money spent is all relative. There was a time I thought paying more than a grand for all of my speakers combined was insane. I now own a center that costs far more than that. People should buy what they can afford and will enjoy. There are lots of great helpful people on this forum and we all share a passion for our hobby. Hate to see everyone so serious to the point of hurt feelings.
post #1894 of 1910
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

It's not an LED bulb used in the Samsung LED DLPs, but a PT120 Phatlight chipset comprised of three (RGB) LEDs. It's because of the inclusion of the three colored LEDS that there was no need for a color wheel in these sets. Color wheels are necessary with bulb lit DLP in order to derive colors from the white light source.
Because the Mitsubishi Laservue uses three laser diodes (RGB) for its illumination, there is, again, no need for a color wheel.

It would be nice if they could make an all LED bulb bright enough with the proper performance for this beast. It would lower the power rating and extend the life of the bulb...two pluses for me.
post #1895 of 1910
Good idea...if:

The LED bulb would need to run cooler driven to higher light output than the bulbs used currently, as one of the issues with DLP engines is that they are heat sensitive. Excessive heat heat can degrade the materials used in the DMDs.

And, with a "white" LED lamp, you would once again need the color wheel.

But if it does run cooler, it would be an interesting approach, as it would allow Mits to get a good Energy Star rating, while providing lots of light.
post #1896 of 1910
Hey all. Just starting to know my new Mit WD-92A12 (As somebody here said "...basically a 92-742") I think. smile.gif

Has anyone noticed a white character trail, double image, or ghosting (yes, I searched forum) that is simular in appearance to screen burn in, but it is not, because it moves with words across screen? So far tried settings recommended here, but it is something internally reflecting I'm guessing. Always there, very dim, below and slightly left of screen image regardless of room lighting. Most noticeable with white letters on a black background.

If store actually gives me a spare bulb (ordered by them) like I was promised, I'll switch out to see if the new one makes a difference. Any help greatly appreaciated. Would hate to have to return, as only New in box 92" I could find had to be driven in from way out of town. I did insist on keeping mammoth box just in case. They set up on my old Best Buy open glass stand (about 21" high, which is too high but 18" glass Bello may work with all my equip.) Scary to see black tempered glass bend. My friend had one explode, so his wife will not let him own glass anymore. eek.gif

But I digress, HD football, etc looks fantastic, but SD...not so much. Stepped up from 67" Sammy LED RP (still looks great, now in bedroom.) Hoping someone has a suggestion to fix or minimize this double-image problem, even with 3D turned off.

Help!
post #1897 of 1910
Thanks taichi, i just learned something on the set i sold.

I just figured since it was adver by samsung of being LED DLP &
that i read how to change the Lamp module by removing 4 screws on the back & loosening 1 bracket screw.

I ASSUMED that it was Bulb lite DLP

Thanks for the info, i'll pass it on to my friend who bought it from us....
& yes i did make sure to point out the 16 to 18 white dots & as the reason i was sell it.
Man it had a Great picture.

We ordered a new WD-92840 last night after supper @ BB with 4 yr ext Geek Sqd warranry
post #1898 of 1910
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

It's not an LED bulb used in the Samsung LED DLPs, but a PT120 Phatlight chipset comprised of three (RGB) LEDs. It's because of the inclusion of the three colored LEDS that there was no need for a color wheel in these sets. Color wheels are necessary with bulb lit DLP in order to derive colors from the white light source.
Because the Mitsubishi Laservue uses three laser diodes (RGB) for its illumination, there is, again, no need for a color wheel.



Here is an excellent video on replacing the Bulb assembly
Also has manuals download & firmware upgrades..
This site would be usefull for anyone with a Samsung DLP


http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/HL-T6187S
post #1899 of 1910
The video referenced, is for Lamp based DLPs, not LED based DLPs - it is important to note that.

Also the term "blub" is incorrect as these are not filiment blubs, they are arc lamps (no filiments). No manufacturer of Lamp DLPs has ever indicted that the lamps are expected to be last the life of the TV. This is why they make the lamp replacement so easy and designed for the average consumer to handle. In most cases the instructions are in the owner's guides that come with the TV and if you get the replacement lamps from the manufacturer, the instructions are often with the new lamps.

As said before, the LED DLPs by Samsung and the LaserVue DLPs by Mitusbishi work differenently. They have Red, Green and Blue LEDs or Lasers instead of lamps. These LEDs and Lasers are intended to last the life of the TV so they are not designed for consumer replacement. Yes, AS WITH EVERYTHING, there will be failures but the replacement of these are designed for professional service techs, not consumers. The manufacturers will not "talk" you through this proceedure or instruct you on this proceedure becasue if you damage the TV further OR hurt yourself they can be sued (your assural that you will not sue is meaningless). I am sure you can find You Tube videos and instructions on the replacement of LED or Laser units in these TVs but these are not from the manufacturers so be very leary on following these, if you do something wrong you have no recourse with the manufacturer.
post #1900 of 1910
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3267L View Post

There are lots of great helpful people on this forum and we all share a passion for our hobby. Hate to see everyone so serious to the point of hurt feelings.

Well said. Your $.02 is appreciated.
post #1901 of 1910
Hello knurled,

That stand looks great. I'm actually looking at the stand and the same TV (I think you have the 92 inch Mitsubishi).

My one question is around the depth of the stand. The Salamander website says the depth of the stand is 19.75", but the depth of the Mitsu stand is 21.5". As it's a slight overhang just wanted to make sure you're not having any problems with that (not that it's likely but obviously want to prevent against any chance of tipping. Thoughts? Thanks
post #1902 of 1910
Quote:
Originally Posted by adamhochman View Post

Hello knurled,
That stand looks great. I'm actually looking at the stand and the same TV (I think you have the 92 inch Mitsubishi).
My one question is around the depth of the stand. The Salamander website says the depth of the stand is 19.75", but the depth of the Mitsu stand is 21.5". As it's a slight overhang just wanted to make sure you're not having any problems with that (not that it's likely but obviously want to prevent against any chance of tipping. Thoughts? Thanks

Knurled,

I am also looking at the same set and stand. I'm interested in any expreience with the stand. I seems like the only one that is the perfect height for the TV.

I won't put the center speaker inside it, but will have two more doors instead. Which color finish is it? Cherry?

Anyway, I do like the stand. Its a little pricey, but seems to be the best choice.
post #1903 of 1910
Thank you both for your comments/questions. There is, in fact, a slight overhang in the front and rear of this stand due to the dimensions of the pedistal and stand depths. I too found this concerning and investigated this prior to purchasing the stand. Another potential problem were the screw-heads which protrude from the top of the stand....no worries. Fortunately, the TV pedistal is supported by rubber circular pads in 5 locations which "play nice" with the stand. Two pads are located approximately 3 inches inward from the front/sides of the pedistal. Similarly, two pads are located on the sides (3 inches inward) along the rear of the pedistal. There is a circular rubber pad also located exactly in the middle/center as well. Using a flashlight and looking into the small crease between the pedistal and stand, it appears the middle/center cup is not even contacting the stand. For me this is a good thing as I would prefer the weight of the set to be distributed along the sides and rear of the pedistal (note the front/center support post was removed from the stand to allow for a center channel placement). Finally there is a rectangular pad in the rear/center of the pedistal which is located perhaps one inch inward from the edge. With none of the rubber pads contacting the protruding screw heads and none of the rubber pads overhanging the stand, the TV rests perfectly level and supported. This TV is the 92 incher and the finish of the stand is walnut. Subjectively, I do not find this overhang to be distracting or all that noticeable. Due to its curved shape it is not the entire front/rear edge which overhangs, but merely a small portion of it. Overall, I have no buyer's remorse at all. The packing materials were very robust and (from what I can see) were strategically arranged to protect the contents. From my experience, the quality of the product/packaging is at least as good as the BDI Vista 9960 (used for my wife's Kuro). I've also added a pic demonstrating the appearance of the upper plank of the synergy stand. Thank-you for your questions/comments and I'll be happy to answer any others to the best of my ability.


post #1904 of 1910
I have been experiencing the same flicker issue. It started about 2 weeks ago. I have had my WD9280 for six months. Did you resolve your issue?
post #1905 of 1910
I have been experiencing the same flicker issue. It started about 2 weeks ago. I have had my WD9284 for six months. Did you resolve your issue?
post #1906 of 1910
Here is a stand I built myself. The stands at bestbuy and online were either too expensive, cheap build quality, or could not fit all my accessories :-). Decided to build one on my own. 82”W x 17.5” H x 22” D. The height is actually perfect for me as I have a split level home where we do most of the TV watching from the kitchen which is 4 feet above the family room, and directly behind the movie watching couch.

Designed it on Google sketch first to get the wife’s ok and to see if it will fit all my AV equipment. This is made out of maple plywood and solid maple 1×3’s for the doors and trim. A few dado’s, glue, and pocket screws hold it together. Added some USB cooling fans vented shelves, and cable management that stole from our computer server racks.The nice thing about the USB fans is that they are powered by the Mit's USB port so when I turn off the TV they run for about 3 mins then turn off completly when the MIT cycles through its colling.

I also put a pair of low profile 1.5" appliance rollers on the bottom so I can roll it in and out to get to my cabling. The rollers are recessed and only 1/8” of an inch is exposed to be able to roll. During movie nights we pull it closer to the seating area to give a it a more cinematic experience (THX recommends 9.2 foot viewing distance for a 92”!! It’s normally 18’ away). My wife thought i was crazy when I pulled it out from the wall about 12ft viewing distance, and we watched The rise of the Guardians in 3D last night and we were totally blown away, we really felt we were at the theater.. By the way. EVERYTHING SHOULD HAVE WHEELS!!!!

Finished it with two coats of General Finishes Java jel stain, with a few dustings of transient dark walnut toner with my HVLP to give it a more even and darker appearance to match my existing furniture. And finally 4-5 coats of GF satin HP waterbased top coat with my HVLP. Total cost of the materials was about $400. Got a few new tools out of it too cool.gif









Edited by nugimon - 4/16/13 at 8:55pm
post #1907 of 1910
Nice looking!
post #1908 of 1910
Quote:
Originally Posted by nugimon View Post

Here is a stand I built myself. The stands at bestbuy and online were either too expensive, cheap build quality, or could not fit all my accessories :-). Decided to build one on my own. 82”W x 17.5” H x 22” D. The height is actually perfect for me as I have a split level home where we do most of the TV watching from the kitchen which is 4 feet above the family room, and directly behind the movie watching couch.

Designed it on Google sketch first to get the wife’s ok and to see if it will fit all my AV equipment. This is made out of maple plywood and solid maple 1×3’s for the doors and trim. A few dado’s, glue, and pocket screws hold it together. Added some USB cooling fans vented shelves, and cable management that stole from our computer server racks.The nice thing about the USB fans is that they are powered by the Mit's USB port so when I turn off the TV they run for about 3 mins then turn off completly when the MIT cycles through its colling.

I also put a pair of low profile 1.5" appliance rollers on the bottom so I can roll it in and out to get to my cabling. The rollers are recessed and only 1/8” of an inch is exposed to be able to roll. During movie nights we pull it closer to the seating area to give a it a more cinematic experience (THX recommends 9.2 foot viewing distance for a 92”!! It’s normally 18’ away). My wife thought i was crazy when I pulled it out from the wall about 12ft viewing distance, and we watched The rise of the Guardians in 3D last night and we were totally blown away, we really felt we were at the theater.. By the way. EVERYTHING SHOULD HAVE WHEELS!!!!

Finished it with two coats of General Finishes Java jel stain, with a few dustings of transient dark walnut toner with my HVLP to give it a more even and darker appearance to match my existing furniture. And finally 4-5 coats of GF satin HP waterbased top coat with my HVLP. Total cost of the materials was about $400. Got a few new tools out of it too cool.gif









Wow, that's awesome. Too bad they're not making DLP's anymore, or I'd hire you to build my next one lol!
post #1909 of 1910
Nugimon,

Nice job! I enjoy projects like that but typically go way overboard & budget. Didn`t have time to make my own, but am happy with store bought glass & metal Bello one mentioned earlier. Good job on cabling also. Looks way better than my large rats nest behind my 92"er.
post #1910 of 1910
Mitsu92owner,

Sorry for the long time to get back to you, if you were asking me if I resolved my double-image (you said flicker) issue. I never did & am so used to it now, I hardly notice it anymore. Awesome huge reasonably priced TV, I can view while in kitchen behind my family room a LONG way from the screen. I am very happy with this purchase, & finally got a spare lamp (bulb) for free from the dealer like he promised.

Hope yours lasts for years of enjoyment. That's what it,s all about. Enjoying life while we still can. Would love to get a huge 4K set at minimum 60fps (my best Onkyo can upconvert to 4K). Everyone needs a wide stand for these monster TVs, I think.
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