Wiring additional speakers to whole house controllers

Looked at some of the other post and didn't find anything that matched my query, was hoping some kind soul more versed in electricity and speakers might help me.

Have a new house that was wired with Cat6 wiring going to 4 zones (gang boxes) from a central location. Then from each of those gang boxes where one end of the Cat6 terminates, I have speaker wire also terminating that goes to various in-ceiling speakers.

My original vision was to buy a Whole House Audio system that has controllers that use the CAT6 for power and control and also send the signal to the speakers that are in the ceiling (as opposed to one of those systems where the speaker runs terminate all the way down where the CAT6 or other control wires terminate)

Anyway the problem lies in that now that I'm actually at the point of buying equipment like in-wall controllers, I haven't found a controller that can handle 4 speakers (2 pairs), every manual I've read from a plethara of manufactures either says stuff like "Use TB2 to connect one pair (only) of 8 ohm audio speakers to the volume control." or says nothing at all.

So the question is, if I splice essentially 8 speaker wires (+ and - for 4 speakers) (see my crude drawing below) in to 4 speaker wires and then plug those wires in to the controller, am I'm risking frying the controller or burning my house down, or am I just going to lose 50% of the power to speakers?

This is for background music, they're 60watt speakers so really 30 watts of juice to them is fine for my purposes. I just want to be sure I'm not doing something totally verboden in the electrical or audio world.

Thanks

Charles

Jautor - I'm sorry to be clearer, I have 4 zones and 4 controllers, the problem is that in each of the 4 zones there's 4 speakers not 2, so it's not 8 total speakers in the house it's 16.

Could I in theory put in another controller for each zone, sure, but that will look dumb as hell on the wall, 2 controllers sitting next to each other, not to mention confusing to anyone but me using the system. Plus, I'd then have to put in an additional Cat6 run from the new controller to the termination point.

IImig - Okay, so we've got a possible solution brewing. So where would this "local passive volume control" fall in the system, between the amp and wall controller?

So this would be another controller that would be installed next to the Zone controller in the wall? If not I'll have to think of something else, because the speaker wire terminates at the gang box where the controller goes, not all the way down where the Cat6 wire terminates in my wiring closet.

So basically I need to get one of these:

http://www.cambridgeaudio.com/summary.php?PID=81

I'd wire my 4 speakers in to it, as well as whatever zone controller I'm using?

I like the fact that this KP-10 apparently can use my current Cat6 run, as I won't have to do any additional cabling.

Excellent! Thank you for the advice on this guys!

I'm still going to buy the impedance matching controller. But I did find this interesting tid-bit on Wikipedia. Perhaps modern whole house audio systems don't need such devices. Just wire as many speakers as you want directly to the amp.

Loudspeaker amplifiers

Many modern solid state audio amplifiers do not use matched impedances, because semiconductor based amplifiers do not have output transformers. The driver amplifier has a low output impedance, such as < 0.1 ohm, and the loudspeaker usually has an input impedance of 4, 8, or 16 ohms, which is many times larger than the former. This type of connection is impedance bridging, and it provides better damping of the loudspeaker cone to minimize distortion. The misconception arises from tube audio amplifiers, which required impedance matching for proper, reliable operation. Most of these had output transformer taps to approximately match the amplifier output to typical loudspeaker impedances.