VIVITEK QUMI LED 1280x800 - Page 66

Sorry, what do you mean? Do you just press hard on the remote where the button is under it?

My god it works!

What Soulhouser means is that you have to peel up the touch membrane that has the buttons moulded into it, exposing the circuit board pads underneath. He then moves the Up button to be over the top right pad so that pressing it makes contact. I just peeled up the top right corner to expose the pad and touched across it with some aluminium foil from a biscuit wrapper.

Many thanks for this tip, I hope nobody will mind me spreading it around. It does of course mean that a learning remote could be set up to have an on/off function.
Edited by crashbot - 12/13/12 at 10:28am

So does the remote cover just snap off and on?

Nope. It's an aluminum sticker you have to peel off. I too can confirm this works!

Since I have a spare remote from my replacement Qumi, I decided to cut out the mute button with a sharp blade and move it to the power button circuit (I cut a hole where it needed to go). The nicer solution will be to get a programmable remote.

Ugly, but it works!

Now the remote looks like this


If I press the UP button twice Qumi shuts down. But I can easily change it to normal. But I dont use other functions, so I need the remote only to turn ON and OFF Qumi.

Wouldn't it be easier to just program a remote?

You mean something like this

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Freeshipping-wholesale-Chunghop-RM-991-3xAAA-battery-TV-SAT-DVD-CBL-CD-AC-VCR-universal-remote/584573547.html?cn=null&PID=5374793&tp1=null&tracelog=null&src=ale&URL=http%253A%252F%252Fwww.aliexpress.com%252Fproduct-fm%252F584573547-Freeshipping-wholesale-Chunghop-RM-991-3xAAA-battery-TV-SAT-DVD-CBL-CD-AC-VCR-universal-remote-wholesalers.html&cv=10975781&af=cj_5374793&vd=30
Edited by soulhouser - 12/13/12 at 7:27pm

I just ordered this one: http://www.amazon.com/URC-R6-Learning-Remote-Control/dp/B0016BUKJS

Should be able to confirm it worked out on Monday.

When I said "peel up", didn't that mean anything?


Excellent!

Unless you do this first (even if only once), you have no means to program a learning remote. Unless, of course, somebody knows what the code is.

I kinda wonder whether post #1952 is visible to anybody but me.

I have succeeded in programming the on/off into Logitech Harmony 200. Here's how:

Logitech (inconveniently if you don't have a PC) requires a driver for Windows, and to be connected to their MyHarmony web service to manage the remote's setup (up to six remotes can be maintained in any one account). The Harmony connects to the PC by mini-USB, although it is only necessary to do this for syncing the on-line configuration or for learning IR codes. I opened my MyHarmony account and brought up the config for my 200, then called up the library configuration for Vivitek QUMI and assigned it to a button ("cable" as it happens). I also assigned the DVD button to Humax HD-FOX T2 (my video source), but that is by-the-by.

The library definition for QUMI does not include the PowerToggle command, and the Input Select command is not assigned to a button for some reason. Strangely when I tried to manually assign "Source" to the Input button on the Harmony, it refused to take (and the Input button is not even a programmable option). This is weird. I just dropped it onto another unused button - the +/- at bottom left.

The next thing was to teach it PowerToggle. The MyHarmony interface has a teach function, which requires the handset to be connected and then beam the IR signal at it. Using a very fine screwdriver (a craft knife would also do) I dug under the top right corner of the keypad overlay on the Qumi remote and peeled it up, just enough to reveal the unused button pad on the circuit board underneath. I found this can be done without damage. With the MyHarmony app ready for IR input, I then used a ball of aluminium foil to press across the button pads while aiming it at the receiver on the Harmony 200. With the code taught, I was then able to drag and drop the new PowerToggle command onto the on/off button. The button overlay pressed back into place with no obvious damage.

All that then remained was to sync the new setup to the Harmony, and the job's a good'un. The Harmony 200 now controls my HD-FOX (I had to assign some of the functions I need to other buttons on the Harmony) and the Qumi (and also another TV which is what it was being used for). The Qumi off function requires two presses because it asks for confirmation.

Of course, the external PSU remains on with it's blue light glowing which is why I will still probably continue to use my remote controlled power socket (and this has been an academic exercise). If you want volume controls as well, you will have to teach them in the same way as on/off (the pads are at lower left).
Edited by crashbot - 12/14/12 at 10:11am

The bad thing is "LED hours" in "Status" doesnt stop, if I turn OFF with remote. The good thing is that the focus becomes sharp in 2-3 minutes after the start with remote, instead of 10-15 minutes with the switch. After the turning OFF with remote Qumi remains warm, but not hot.

Wow, sorry I didn't realize that the cover itself was the touch membrane. You're so cool

So it's more of a "standby" than "off".

I posted about my experience with a Harmony RC a while ago, but it seems to be held up in a moderation queue.

Update: it has now appeared, see post #1961.
Edited by crashbot - 12/14/12 at 9:54am

I would say that the black levels are good with a grey screen. Absolute JVC black
no but on par with darkchip3 projectors. For me I run Movie mode and dark scenes
have gotten better with time. Now 875 hours and the blacks are now more than acceptable.
Out of the box they suck as well as the picture in general. After 400 hours I would
not buy a lamp based projector. LED is the real deal and Vivitek will launch a new projector
with larger case,better optics, and larger led chip set in 9 months according to my sources
if everything goes well.

Verge let's just say you cannot see the Qumi from behind the Panamorph UH480
and as my family puts it the picture is "Freaking jumping off the screen in 2D" For
600.00 whats not to like.

With such low lumens I thought the picture would be too dark with a grey screen?

No problem with the lumens but I was talking about Q5. Finally got
3D to work and Avengers was awesome with the Nvidia 2 system.
Looked better than the Acer 5360 I had awhile back in 3D. At this
point all I can say is wow!!!!!!

You are going to make my wallet 600 dollars lighter. Wanting one mainly to play games on, but thinking it might be good enough to replace my old sxrd

Don't miss my RS2!

Really, a cheap led over the RS2? I would think the contrast and details would be night and day.

I want to see the pores on peoples faces, those clear strands of hair. I'm sure a cheap led couldn't reproduce that even with a $$$ image processor ?

I'm pleased with mine - granted it's not 1080 quality but it is 720 no problem. LED source means it doesn't work in daylight, but in a dark or subdued room it's fine - I use it on a normal vinyl emulsion white wall at 54" diagonal in Eco mode, with no worries about expensive lamp replacements. I have done 90" at full brightness (Q2).

The only down sides (as far as I am concerned) are the fixed focal ratio and the unusable sound, and being a small package the fans (there are two) can be noisy. Consequently I use external powered speakers, keep the volume turned up, and I'm looking into a focal length adapter. Can't complain for the price.

If you've not seen it, don't knock it. There are plenty of image samples on the forums and YouTube.

I love my Qumi Q2. I just finished building a very low budget dedicated theater around it, you can see the thread here : http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397374/tiny-theater-on-a-tiny-budget

The Qumi does the job well, my screen is only 82" and I have almost 100% light control so the lack of lumens isn't an issue. My wife and I love watching movies in there, and especially playing video games where I don't want to worry about the number of hours on the lamp. I wish I'd known about the hidden remote power button before I wired mine up to a dedicated wall switch but at least I have an easy way to completely power mine off (and no cool-down needed for LED).
Edited by Chimera2345 - 12/17/12 at 8:30am

ok people, was wondering, is it worth selling qumi q2 and getting a lg PA70G? does any one owns one? how it compares to qumi?

Getting a unit with perfect focus seems to be hit or miss, also 3d seems to have issues as in nobody can get it to work. The most attractive feature seems to be the Fry's on again off again $399 sale price.

im not in to 3d, main features i need brighter pj and better in quality of picture, if lg suits my needs, i might get it.. can some one confirm lg is better than qumi or the difference is low that its not worth to swap?

In my opinion the PA70g is better then the qumi because of the price and double the lumens.

I don't know if you should sell your qumi 2 or not. Why are you thinking of selling it, is it not working out the way you like?

I guess the pa70g could be an upgrade for you, since it's 700 lumens compared to 300 lumens. And has very nice sound coming from 6 watts of stereo speakers, compared to 1 watt mono speaker. 2 year warranty in USA on the LG, not sure about the qumi q2.

As others said, if you get a focused 70g for 399 from fry's , I would consider it a good upgrade. Also, the media center built into the LG is very good, it plays all the stuff I throw at it, or 99 percent.

Maybe look at "redneck's geeks" 41 min review of the pa70g on utube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JIWJ1EVwZg I believe he did have a qumi before the pa70g, so that review should help. Now in that review, he just did unboxing and review at same time, there are cool features not in the review, but he seems like what you are looking for, someone who owned both and gives you good review of the pa70g.
Edited by rgtaa - 1/28/13 at 4:38pm

Out of warranty and my Q2 bricked. It is not recognizing HDMI as source. The only pix I get is as on these photos. The menu works but factory reset does not. Is there any hard reset? Or is it the hardware that failed? Your help will be much appreciated.

Sounds like hardware to me.

If it is of no further use to you, I would be interested in having it for a strip down.