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Interesting projector project

post #1 of 51
Thread Starter 
Hi All,

I've recently discovered this forum and its clear that no one knows projectors better than the 'avs' community...

So here's my situation. I'm planning on building a Formula 3 racing simulator as I've gotten hold of a damaged tub (monocoque chassis) which would make an ideal platform. I'm really trying to find the most effective and efficient method of giving the driver a sense of immersion, and it seems like projectors are the way to go. Clarity and sharpness is a must (HD 1080p 1920 x 1080?), and I'd like to have a 1:1 view to help the driver think that he is driving the real thing (I intend on lining the tub up with the on screen image).

I've had a look into 3d, polarized method and shutter glass method, but I'm uncertain as to whether this is compatible with the game 'rfactor' and if the results will be good enough to use? I've read that polarized comes with its drawbacks such as ghosting and cross over, and shutter glass could have negative medical effects due to blanking one eye out 50% of the time?

The other option is obviously 2d, in the form of curved or flat screen, 1 or 3 projector config. One problem I do have is that I would like to place the tub as close to the screen as possible to help immersion (<2metres). This would mean that if I'm projecting an image from the same side as the tub ( front projection if I understand correctly?) then I would have to find something that can project at such an angle as not to cast a shadow onto the screen.

I'd like to have a full 180 degree FOV, but am unsure as to how complex this task is? If I had to go down this route, I suppose I could invest in a lower cost projector as I'd be using three of them together and each one would be projecting a smaller picture?

I've had a look around for projectors, and there seems to be a great deal of them out there! The panasonic AE4000U caught my eye if I decide to go down the single projector flat screen route? Would this be suitable for my application? I forgot to mention that the room is not the biggest around, I'd say maybe 15 feet long? I'm really struggling to pin down the properties I need in a projector, apart from the 1080p HD, I suppose throw distance and lens shift would be critical?

I imagine the other option to avoid the shadow problem would be rear projection, but how much throw distance would you need in this case, as I'd still have to place the racing tub on the otherside which technically would divide my room into two halves with the screen in the middle?

As for screens, I've had a look at a number of DIY screen builds on here and I might try my hands at building my own. The only problem is that I m located in the UK and the materials mentioned on here are normally from shops specific to the states.

Regarding budget, I wouldn't say its fixed, as I want to buy a quality item and not have to change it within a year. I'd say I have up to 5000 Dollars at most, but am open to opinions etc...

I've attached a picture of what the tub looks like to get an idea of the size I'm dealing with. I'm open to critisism and would greatly appreciate any advice...

Kind regards,

Julian
LL
post #2 of 51
Thread Starter 
P.S. When referring to the attached photo, the yellow coloured cone attached to the front of the tub will not be used on my simulator configuration to reduce the overall length ( and the fact that a crash stucture cone would cost around 12,000 dollars )
post #3 of 51
post #4 of 51
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the fast reply! IMO those have very harsh blend lines from one projector image to the other, especially the first link. I think its mainly becuase they're using flat screens rather than a continuous curve? I've seen some very good curved projector set ups, but unfortunately never found out what projectors they were using. I'm really looking for a nice crisp image for my budget and application. That and advice as to whether to go down 3D route or not, and what properties to look for in a projector needed for my project. I hear a lot of people are using the Epson 8350?

Thanks again,

Julian
post #5 of 51
ok, how are you going to get multiple screen outputs. eyefinity,3D Vision Surround?
A 1080p 3d PJ is close to 5000$ most messing with 3d are going 720p 650$
http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...sort=%24&sz=15
http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...sort=%24&sz=15

so I assume it will be a pc for gaming I would go nvidia 3d card and kit with a 720p 3d projector to keep it simple.xbox and ps3 are a whole nuther story.
post #6 of 51
Thread Starter 
With projectors, could you connect them up with Triple Head 2 go? I haven't bought the PC yet so I can still spec it with the eyefinity 3d Vision. This would mean going down the shutter route I suppose. How good is this method when gaming, any delays etc etc? That would also mean I'd need to build a SILVER curved screen to display the 3D image am I right, or is there some sort of the 3d projector material ready made?

Just so that I have a choice of two. If I had to choose 2D, would you go DLP or LCD. Currently it seems like a v.good LCD is the panasonic PT AE 4000u and a v.good DLP is the mitsubishi HC4000 (if opting for 1 projector). Only issue is that there is no lens shift with mitsubishi, jsut digital keystone. Would this hinder my application? Any others you can think of?

Also do you think its do able - i.e. placing the tub relatively close to the screen with a front projection without getting alot/any shadows appearing?

Thanks again!

Julian
post #7 of 51
Would triple head block edid data?(no 3d device found ect.)The only reqs. for the nvidia are the approved 120hz projector,glasses, emiter,and card, no special screen.
http://www.nvidia.com/object/3d-visi...uirements.html
I think the tub could be close no problem. im going to read up on the tripple head 4:45 am I need to get some sleep.
post a screen size you would like and a distance from the wall the tallest part of the tub would be and the tallest part of the tub in height ,one of the wizards here can help maybe.
post #8 of 51
Thread Starter 
Hmmm I m not sure if the triple head blocks edid data, I ll try have a look to find out. So that means a normal projector screen material would be fine for the 3D image??

I've attached a diagram with all the dimensions of the tub. Again note that the nose is not present in my configuration. Now sure how close I want to go, as I don't know if there are any side effects form going too close such as screen door etc , If someone could give me a range I would really appreciate it.

So what would be a better set up, in the communities opinion, 3d flat screen, 3d curved sceen( with 3 PJ ). 2d flat screen, 2d curved screen.

Thanks

Julian
LL
post #9 of 51
Thread Starter 
As for size of screen, I am unsure as to what size, as all I know is that I want it to be 1:1 scale. Does anyone know how I can achieve this. I know I can change FOV and view in game and hence move the camera angle all around. With repect to alignment, I d like to achieve something like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-D_W...ayer_embedded#!

Not sure if he s using r factor though
post #10 of 51
You might want to post in the dedicated theater builder's forum too. They might have more ideas. If you are going to be that close to the screen, you might not want a projector that has screen door around the pixels (Epson).

I think a lot of what you are thinking of doing will need to be trail blazed by you or you may need to find a specialized forum. How many multiple linked and curved 3D screens are being used in the home with off the shelf software? Probably zero.

You might want to consider just being really close to a large screen. If you are 5 feet away from a 12' wide screen in 3D, it will be pretty immersive.

Also, there are very few projectors that can project that large and that close. You might want to try rear projection instead, but then you will be using a bunch of space for just the projection room. Another idea is to use a mirror to lengthen the projection distance.
post #11 of 51
Thread Starter 
That example in an extreme case, but does look very good! You make very good points and I do agree that it might be worth just investing in one 3d projector and have a flat large screen. The other option is a curved 180 FOV 2d projector set-up. Which do you think would have the most immersive factor?

I think my biggest problem is that there are these 3 possible configurations, and its hard to decide on one of them (the money envolved doesn't make it any easier either )

I stated my ideal set up btw, if i see that for my budget I can't position my tub so close, I ll move back a couple of feet

The quesiton is which configuration to go for, and then which projector to go for
post #12 of 51
I don't know if you can do a 180 FOV with the software you are using. I don't know how you modify the PJ to display that. You might want to consider trying out 3D with the $500 720 PJs that are out now. If you want 1080 3d, you will have to pay $3500+. 2D 1080 will cost you $1200 plus....a Panny 4000 is $2000.

There are compromises for all of them. I personally would go with the $500 720 and try it out. It will be very, very cool with very little investment. You will need to do a lot of work to get everything else how you want it. In the mean time, 1080 3d will come down in price, but you will still have enjoyed your cool system for a while. The extra $3000 for 1080 3d will not give you 7x the enjoyment.
post #13 of 51
I'm building a similar setup as well. If sharpness and clarity is as a concern for you as it is for me then you are going to want to go with DLP. I went with 3 Benq w1000+(s). The W6000's are on sale for the rest of the month, I would have went for those if that sale was going on last year.
I recommend a acrylic rear projection curved screen if you have the room and can afford it, if not a front projection will do.
And for edge blending, warpalizer is probably your best bet. It does a great job edge blending direct X applications and its inexpensive. Let me know if you decide to go with warpalizer, I can get you a good deal.
post #14 of 51
I hope you have a big room, the throw distances are going to require feet on 3 sides of your cockpit.


You will have to edge blend, the hardware will be expensive. Basically, if you wanted me to set this up for you, and you didn't have 25,000, i'd tell you to forget about it.
post #15 of 51
+1 on the W6000.

Snipe3000, you bought 3 W1000+? How you liking them? What kind of setup required 3?
post #16 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by chumpchange21 View Post

+1 on the W6000.

Snipe3000, you bought 3 W1000+? How you liking them? What kind of setup required 3?

They are very nice, extremely sharp, much sharper than my monitors. I need 3 for a very wide setup I'm building, I have a custom curved 35x132 Da-lite acrylic screen I'm waiting on. I don't really plan on using the entire screen space, I play alot of FPS's so I like to sit somewhat close to the monitor, but it gives me flexibility for when I want to use it for racing games, movies, and whatnot.

Originally I tried 3 30" Dell monitors at 7680x1600, but It was so rigid and the bezels sucked, so I figured I try something alittle different and with more flexibility. so for the past 6 months I have been researching how to do it the proper way.
post #17 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

I hope you have a big room, the throw distances are going to require feet on 3 sides of your cockpit.


You will have to edge blend, the hardware will be expensive. Basically, if you wanted me to set this up for you, and you didn't have 25,000, i'd tell you to forget about it.

Hmm what exactly do you mean when you say 'feet on 3 sides of your cockpit'?

Hmm for edge blending, can't I use sofware like Sol7 or Nthusim? Last time I checked they costed around 500 dollars to buy? What is the 25000 price tag for exactly? I definately don't have that much money to spend

Thankyou Snipe3000, will have a look at those projectors. Did you finish your threatre? Also what software are you using to run the 3 projectors , TH2GO or eyefinity? Ithink SoftTH also make some sort of software for this application. What size is your screen and could I be rude enough to ask how much the custom curved screen costed and what radius it is? How far back have u positioned your Projectors?

Andreas, thanks for the advice, it is does make logical sense to buy a relatively cheap 3D PJ just to get an idea of the end result if going down that route. However I think I'm straying away from the idea of 3d until prices go down and then invest in a 1080. Now its a question of 3 PJ curved screen 2D or 1 PJ large flat screen 2d set up.

Kind regards,

Julian
post #18 of 51
Thread Starter 
P.S. Had a look at how much Benq W6000's go for in the Uk and it seems to be around 3120 dollars! The Benq W1000+ on the other hand sells for around 1059 dollars! Is there a big jump from the 1000+ to the 6000?

Also, I had a look at the mitsubishi HC3800 which sells in the UK for 1402 Dollars and it seems to be pretty reasonable, short throw, and can permit me to get my tub closer to the screen that Benq if my calculations are correct.

Also, I don't know if anyone can help on this front but to determine what size to make my screen, I need to know how to calculate what size a 1:1 image would be in rfactor? Would this value change when opting for a triple screen set up?

Thanks

Julian
post #19 of 51
Thread Starter 
P.P.S. I had a look at the HC3800 seating distance recommendation, and it states around 3.5 metres what a given size (example). What happens if say I sit 2 metres away, will the image appear pixelated and would there be visible screen door?

Last question, if adopting a 3 PJ set up, for each projector to attack its respective section of the screen perpendicularly, I would need to position the projetors in such a way that their projected images would cross over eachother before arriving at the screen. Sorry to sound ignorant, but would this cause any porblems?
post #20 of 51
The DLP projectors like the HC3800 will not have screen door. You may be sensitive to "RBE/RainBow Effect". You might want to try one PJ before investing in 3! Also, the Panasonics with "smooth screen" (4000) won't have screen door. As far as "pixelated", I have a 135" diagonal screen @ 720 and I can watch movies without noticing pixels or screen door. In scenes with a lot of white (clouds, etc) I can see the screen door, and my PC desktop will look a bit pixelated. If you do the calcs, you can determine how big the actual pixels are: 135" = 66" high / 720 = .09" = Pixels are .09" x .09" in size, which is pretty small!

So, even a large image very close without screen door will look quite good especially if you are "in the game" or watching a movie. It is only if you start looking for defects that you might notice. The regular lay person will never notice!
post #21 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post
Hmm what exactly do you mean when you say 'feet on 3 sides of your cockpit'?

Hmm for edge blending, can't I use sofware like Sol7 or Nthusim? Last time I checked they costed around 500 dollars to buy? What is the 25000 price tag for exactly? I definately don't have that much money to spend

Thankyou Snipe3000, will have a look at those projectors. Did you finish your threatre? Also what software are you using to run the 3 projectors , TH2GO or eyefinity? Ithink SoftTH also make some sort of software for this application. What size is your screen and could I be rude enough to ask how much the custom curved screen costed and what radius it is? How far back have u positioned your Projectors?

Andreas, thanks for the advice, it is does make logical sense to buy a relatively cheap 3D PJ just to get an idea of the end result if going down that route. However I think I'm straying away from the idea of 3d until prices go down and then invest in a 1080. Now its a question of 3 PJ curved screen 2D or 1 PJ large flat screen 2d set up.

Kind regards,

Julian
You are going to need throw distances on each side of your screen + distance to the viewer. If you have large screens this will start to add up, you will need a big room. Edge blending digitals won't be perfect, but it's a pain with the cheap stuff out there.

It's going to take you hours and hours and need lots of precise calculations, on top of some pretty hefty AV equipment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPopm...1C4B6D&index=5

If you want to get rid of those lines where the projectors overlap, she's gonna get 'spensive.
post #22 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

You are going to need throw distances on each side of your screen + distance to the viewer. If you have large screens this will start to add up, you will need a big room. Edge blending digitals won't be perfect, but it's a pain with the cheap stuff out there.

It's going to take you hours and hours and need lots of precise calculations, on top of some pretty hefty AV equipment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPopm...1C4B6D&index=5

If you want to get rid of those lines where the projectors overlap, she's gonna get 'spensive.

The room I've got is around 15 x 18 feet. I'm thinking of a 120-180 degree arc with a radius of 2 metres, meaning the driver will be sitting 2 metres away from every part of the screen (horizontally).

When you refer to large screens, how large would i have to go to start seeing a problem like in the video? If I go with the 2m radius, that would mean I'd be throwing a 82" x 46" (16:9) , 82" x 62" (4:3) picture out of each projector for the 180 degree config. For the 120 FOV, its 54.9" x 30.9", 54.9" x 41.22" respectively. Is that pushing it?

What sort of technology is there to correct those lines? Pardon my ignorance but I thought the digital stuff could do it
post #23 of 51
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCplz...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDaC7...eature=related
looks like a 2 projector solution with a curved screen( witch you can diy) and be in budget.
post #24 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post

The room I've got is around 15 x 18 feet. I'm thinking of a 120-180 degree arc with a radius of 2 metres, meaning the driver will be sitting 2 metres away from every part of the screen (horizontally).

When you refer to large screens, how large would i have to go to start seeing a problem like in the video? If I go with the 2m radius, that would mean I'd be throwing a 82" x 46" (16:9) , 82" x 62" (4:3) picture out of each projector for the 180 degree config. For the 120 FOV, its 54.9" x 30.9", 54.9" x 41.22" respectively. Is that pushing it?

What sort of technology is there to correct those lines? Pardon my ignorance but I thought the digital stuff could do it

I think there is some software out that that will do it, i don't know if it is free or not, and i don't know how it works with gaming. But there is dedicated hardware for edge blending.
post #25 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by eat meat View Post

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCplz...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDaC7...eature=related
looks like a 2 projector solution with a curved screen( witch you can diy) and be in budget.

So the warp stuff will edge blend for you i'm guessing. I looked at some youtube videos and they claimed to have a curved screen, but you could easily see vertical lines, perhaps they weren't actually curved screens, and that's where the screens were meeting?
post #26 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

So the warp stuff will edge blend for you i'm guessing. I looked at some youtube videos and they claimed to have a curved screen, but you could easily see vertical lines, perhaps they weren't actually curved screens, and that's where the screens were meeting?

thats probably eyefinity(nvidia)3D Vision Surround(ati) that you can blend screens with ,it works with certain vid cards,the nature of projectors(dark edges ) dont help.
post #27 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post

Hmm what exactly do you mean when you say 'feet on 3 sides of your cockpit'?

Hmm for edge blending, can't I use sofware like Sol7 or Nthusim? Last time I checked they costed around 500 dollars to buy? What is the 25000 price tag for exactly? I definately don't have that much money to spend

Thankyou Snipe3000, will have a look at those projectors. Did you finish your threatre? Also what software are you using to run the 3 projectors , TH2GO or eyefinity? Ithink SoftTH also make some sort of software for this application. What size is your screen and could I be rude enough to ask how much the custom curved screen costed and what radius it is? How far back have u positioned your Projectors?

Andreas, thanks for the advice, it is does make logical sense to buy a relatively cheap 3D PJ just to get an idea of the end result if going down that route. However I think I'm straying away from the idea of 3d until prices go down and then invest in a 1080. Now its a question of 3 PJ curved screen 2D or 1 PJ large flat screen 2d set up.

Kind regards,

Julian

B&H was having a sale the other week on the w6000 for $1499, but I think that sale is over already. The HC4000 is another good option but it cost about $1500 and I dont know if you will see that much of a difference between that and the w1000+. I would have to say if you use this more for movies then the HC4000 is the better buy.

Here is an example of warpalizer from a buddy of mine over in Florida
http://www.youtube.com/user/HERCULEA.../0/x-LNm60np9U
He is using front projection.
Warpalizer costs less than Nthusim and, in my own opinion, Warpalizer is more advanced technology. Its manual software so it will take some time to set it up perfectly.

My setup isnt complete yet. I am only waiting on the screen, which I just changed the size of today. I did some more measurements and realized that I would be able to use all of the width of the screen because I sit no further than 3 feet from the front of the screen. So I changed the size to 35x88" with a 62" radius which cost about $3000. Another reason I picked that size is that I may buy 2 more projectors and turn all 5 projectors to display in portrait mode which would fill the entire 35x88 space with 5400x1920 of resolution. If you wanted something bigger like 50x138, then that cost about $6000. Of course if you get a screen that wide you may want to increase the radius otherwise the screen will wrap around you, unless thats what you want. At around 138" wide, 76" Radius would be very nice.
I am using 3 Nvidia GTX480s with their built in "Vision Surround". If you have ATI(AMD) or at lease 2 Nvidia cards, then you don't need any extra software except for the warping and edge blending stuff. And I have warpalizer for that. I'm going to have my projectors 4 to 5 feet from the screen. If you need bigger images then you are going to need more space.
post #28 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post

When you refer to large screens, how large would i have to go to start seeing a problem like in the video? If I go with the 2m radius, that would mean I'd be throwing a 82" x 46" (16:9) , 82" x 62" (4:3) picture out of each projector for the 180 degree config. For the 120 FOV, its 54.9" x 30.9", 54.9" x 41.22" respectively. Is that pushing it?

Where did you get these numbers? If these are front projectors, 2 meter throw distance for a W6000 doesn't get you anything near an 82x46 screen. It is about half of that.

If you want a 82 inch wide screen, you need 11 feet according to projector central. You could go rear projection, but like i said, you are going to need a huge room for 180 degrees.

11ft + 6ft + 6ft + 11ft roughly. The 11 would be at an angle and i'm too lazy to do that type of maths.
post #29 of 51
Keep in mind when you are doing your math for calculating your screen size that there is a 10% overlap needed for edge blending if using software. So for example, if you are using 3 projectors, take 10% of the width for one projector, lets call that x. Then multiply x by 2 and subtract that from the total amount of width of all 3 projectors.

I believe only a hardware solution can do edge blending without the need to overlap, like this for example:
http://www.dhgate.com/mp103-dvi-pro-...71f032b4c.html
Very expensive stuff. you would also need the add on hardware to add the curve to the image, making the total for that solution just over $10,000.
post #30 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

Where did you get these numbers? If these are front projectors, 2 meter throw distance for a W6000 doesn't get you anything near an 82x46 screen. It is about half of that.

If you want a 82 inch wide screen, you need 11 feet according to projector central. You could go rear projection, but like i said, you are going to need a huge room for 180 degrees.

11ft + 6ft + 6ft + 11ft roughly. The 11 would be at an angle and i'm too lazy to do that type of maths.

No No two metres wouldn't be the throw distance, just the seating position away from the screen. Would having a curvature relative to a raduis of 2metres and projecting the image from a distance of 3metres be a big no no? I image the difference in radii might cause the image to be slightly compressed at both extremes, which can then be re altered using warpalizar?

I have to say that Warpalizar does look impressive. Would it produce the same results with 3 projectors rather than just two? I'm not looking for 100% perfection, but I'd like 80% + just so the transition from one screen to another does not look too bad and lose that feeling of immersion. The reason I stray slightly away from 2 Projector is that I think if I get a messy transition exactly in the middle of the screen, it'll be very distracting?

On the projector front, its looking like a W1000+ or the HC3800, opinions?

Julian
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