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Interesting projector project - Page 2

post #31 of 51
1/14/11 at 1:23am
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P.S. Thanks for all the input! Will have to organise a simulator night when its done! hehe
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post #32 of 51
1/14/11 at 1:40am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snipe3000 View Post

B&H was having a sale the other week on the w6000 for $1499, but I think that sale is over already. The HC4000 is another good option but it cost about $1500 and I dont know if you will see that much of a difference between that and the w1000+. I would have to say if you use this more for movies then the HC4000 is the better buy.

Here is an example of warpalizer from a buddy of mine over in Florida
http://www.youtube.com/user/HERCULEA.../0/x-LNm60np9U
He is using front projection.
Warpalizer costs less than Nthusim and, in my own opinion, Warpalizer is more advanced technology. Its manual software so it will take some time to set it up perfectly.

My setup isnt complete yet. I am only waiting on the screen, which I just changed the size of today. I did some more measurements and realized that I would be able to use all of the width of the screen because I sit no further than 3 feet from the front of the screen. So I changed the size to 35x88" with a 62" radius which cost about $3000. Another reason I picked that size is that I may buy 2 more projectors and turn all 5 projectors to display in portrait mode which would fill the entire 35x88 space with 5400x1920 of resolution. If you wanted something bigger like 50x138, then that cost about $6000. Of course if you get a screen that wide you may want to increase the radius otherwise the screen will wrap around you, unless thats what you want. At around 138" wide, 76" Radius would be very nice.
I am using 3 Nvidia GTX480s with their built in "Vision Surround". If you have ATI(AMD) or at lease 2 Nvidia cards, then you don't need any extra software except for the warping and edge blending stuff. And I have warpalizer for that. I'm going to have my projectors 4 to 5 feet from the screen. If you need bigger images then you are going to need more space.

Are you projecting a 35 x 88 image between 3 projectors? Also, are you purchasing your curved screen froma specific company, or DIY'ing it?

I had a look at screen DIY'ing for there isnt much for curved screens with those kind of radii, Would you glue the cloth to a hard board with that curve or woul you use hard board and bend it that much?

Thanks

Julian

P.s. thanks for reminding me about the 10%
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post #33 of 51
1/14/11 at 3:18am
Julian, seems like you could start a thread in the DIY section. I can tell you that you should easily get by with a painted screen as far as light output. I projected on a painted wall in my house for 2 years and it was the same brightness as my SeymourAV 1.2 AT screen now. If you want to put speakers behind the screen, you could go with SeymourAV's AT also. I think it will be more difficult EXCEPT that it may be hard to find material in greater lengths that 8' to avoid a seam with 1/4" ply or something like that. Screen material can be in much longer lengths. Actually, the SeymourAV material is rather stiff so it doesn't need much tension to keep wrinkle free.

Anyway, from those warpalizer videos, I think what you are planning is very possible. You have the issue of getting the projectors far enough away for a large enough screen. You either need short throw PJs, have a large room or use mirrors....or maybe you can put a lens in front of the PJ's lens to enlarge it?
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post #34 of 51
1/14/11 at 4:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post

Are you projecting a 35 x 88 image between 3 projectors? Also, are you purchasing your curved screen froma specific company, or DIY'ing it?

I had a look at screen DIY'ing for there isnt much for curved screens with those kind of radii, Would you glue the cloth to a hard board with that curve or woul you use hard board and bend it that much?

Thanks

Julian

P.s. thanks for reminding me about the 10%

3 projectors yes, but I do not plan on filling the entire height of the screen, just the width. The only reason I picked a screen that tall is for if I decide to get a couple more projectors and put them in portrait mode.

My screen is designed and being built by Da-lite. I told them what size I wanted and what radius I wanted and they took care of the rest. They draw up a design and everything.
Its a acrylic screen so it looks similar to this, except not glossy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_31sZh-dUnM
I actually have a sample of that screen and compared it to a sample of the Da-lite, and I prefer the Da-lite, much higher definition.
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post #35 of 51
1/14/11 at 7:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post

No No two metres wouldn't be the throw distance, just the seating position away from the screen. Would having a curvature relative to a raduis of 2metres and projecting the image from a distance of 3metres be a big no no? I image the difference in radii might cause the image to be slightly compressed at both extremes, which can then be re altered using warpalizar?

I have to say that Warpalizar does look impressive. Would it produce the same results with 3 projectors rather than just two? I'm not looking for 100% perfection, but I'd like 80% + just so the transition from one screen to another does not look too bad and lose that feeling of immersion. The reason I stray slightly away from 2 Projector is that I think if I get a messy transition exactly in the middle of the screen, it'll be very distracting?

On the projector front, its looking like a W1000+ or the HC3800, opinions?

Julian

For 180 degrees wouldn't the projectors firing on both sides of the screen have to be very close, or the other side of the screen will be blocking the picture.

I can see how it works for 120 degrees, but it seems like 180 throws a wrench in there.
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post #36 of 51
1/14/11 at 12:42pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

For 180 degrees wouldn't the projectors firing on both sides of the screen have to be very close, or the other side of the screen will be blocking the picture.

I can see how it works for 120 degrees, but it seems like 180 throws a wrench in there.

Would I be able to cross the projected images, i.e. have the projector which is throwing onto the left of the screen, to the right of the centre projector, and vice versa for the right side of the screen?

Then there s the possibility of just going 2 projector as those videos that were posted seem very good!

I have around 12-15 feet to play with, is that enough? Really need advice on what to do abou the screen. I m still thinking if I ll go 180 or just settle for 120? Also how to make the actual screen, or where to buy it from

Ahhhh so many decisions, its never ending really!
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post #37 of 51
1/14/11 at 1:30pm
the screen can be as simple as some thing like a skate board ramp on its side and it would be easier to build because it would not have to be super strong .You could use thinner wood easy to get the curve.Finishing the suface would take some time.
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post #38 of 51
1/14/11 at 2:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post
Would I be able to cross the projected images, i.e. have the projector which is throwing onto the left of the screen, to the right of the centre projector, and vice versa for the right side of the screen?

Then there s the possibility of just going 2 projector as those videos that were posted seem very good!

I have around 12-15 feet to play with, is that enough? Really need advice on what to do abou the screen. I m still thinking if I ll go 180 or just settle for 120? Also how to make the actual screen, or where to buy it from

Ahhhh so many decisions, its never ending really!
Yea you can, but won't the sides of the projector get in the way if you start hitting 15ft throw distances?


I guess people are making massive corrections in warpalizer... IMO, if you are going to do that, your pixel structure is going to be completely screwed, might as well use cheaper 720p projectors.
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post #39 of 51
1/14/11 at 3:19pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post
Yea you can, but won't the sides of the projector get in the way if you start hitting 15ft throw distances?


I guess people are making massive corrections in warpalizer... IMO, if you are going to do that, your pixel structure is going to be completely screwed, might as well use cheaper 720p projectors.
What would you suggest? What I do want is a very high quality picture. I prefer losing some of the curve in order to compensate for quality. Do you think I should go 2 PJ and flatter screen different projectors? different throw?

Thanks again

Julian
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post #40 of 51
1/14/11 at 3:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by julian bernard View Post
What would you suggest? What I do want is a very high quality picture. I prefer losing some of the curve in order to compensate for quality. Do you think I should go 2 PJ and flatter screen different projectors? different throw?

Thanks again

Julian
The best way to keep the quality on a screen with a deep curve is to turn the projectors side-ways and put them in portrait mode, although you will need to purchase many more projectors and the GPU power to push that kind of resolution.
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post #41 of 51
1/16/11 at 8:45am
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Hmmm I don't think I'll have the budget for that, but I can imagine that it would look amazing!
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post #42 of 51
1/17/11 at 4:42am
Thread Starter 
My last question:

I have decided that the HC4000 seems to be the best one for me if I go for a home theatre projector. My question is what is the quality like of the short throw projectors currently available, such as the BenQ MX812ST and the Optoma EX525ST?

Just weighing up the two options really to come to a final decision on screen size and radius.

Thanks

Julian
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post #43 of 51
1/17/11 at 6:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snipe3000 View Post

The best way to keep the quality on a screen with a deep curve is to turn the projectors side-ways and put them in portrait mode, although you will need to purchase many more projectors and the GPU power to push that kind of resolution.


That makes sense.
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post #44 of 51
1/17/11 at 9:41am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

That makes sense.

Certainly does, would be something for the future,as I don't think I have that kind of budget to start off with. Basically I can achieve the picture needed to fill a 2m radius 180degree screen using the mitsubishi HC4000 X 3 at a throw distance of roughly 3.4metres with full zoom. Only other option I want to look at before I buy is what short throw projectors are out there that can deliver HD or as close as possible pictures.
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post #45 of 51
1/17/11 at 10:07pm
I dont know of any 1080p ultra short throw projectors, but let me know if you find any good ones.
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post #46 of 51
1/18/11 at 4:46am
Thread Starter 
Had a little time on my hands so drew up a quick assembly of the project with HC4000's The screen is 4 metres in diameter and 1.75 high (180 deg), the projectors are positioned 3.4 metres away for the screen for accomodate for the 10% overlap, and 1.88metres high (it looks like none of them will be affected by the other).

My only question is, with the projectors crossing over eachother, will it cause any problems to the projected picture? As oppose to the left projector displaying the left hand side, and so on...

Julian
LL
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post #47 of 51
1/18/11 at 7:07am
Looks good to me (and very workable). I assume you have double checked everything with a projector calculator like this: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Mits...ulator-pro.htm

...for both the vertical offset and distance/image size. I don't think the calculator is perfect, just be aware. You'll have to tweak things once you get at least one of the PJs bought.

I still recommend getting just one at first in case you have an issue with rainbow effect.

Keep us informed. This is a cool project.
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post #48 of 51
1/18/11 at 1:20pm
That's going to be a nice setup. I noticed in the picture that the projectors are at the top of the screen, but not upside down. I don't think the HC4000 has vertical lens shift, you may want mount the projectors upside down if they are going to be above the screen.
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post #49 of 51
1/18/11 at 2:49pm
Thread Starter 
I see, so they have to be upside down to throw a downwards image? Also would anyone know the focus depth to see if the picture will be completely focused?
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post #50 of 51
1/18/11 at 4:06pm
You can have the projectors the way they are in the picture, but it is not a natural position for the projector, you will have to angle the PJ's downward, and with no vertical lens shift, you will have to keystone the image to death, and usually that's not what you want.
As long as the projector is in the operating range from the screen specified by that projector then it will focus at any zoom level.
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post #51 of 51
1/19/11 at 12:52am
Thread Starter 
I think I'd better just install the projectors upside down, thanks for the heads up!
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