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Nameless 2-way speaker build - Page 2

post #31 of 117
Thread Starter 
It's in mm so I have it at 1". In other forums I've seen people recommend as low as 15 mm. I've measured with a ruler. I plan on measuring with an spl meter to check. I also ran the XO sim at 30, 40, and 50mm. Result got ugly around 40. But I'm sure it's less than that.

Do you measure from the middle of the magnet, to the middle of the tweeter magnet?
post #32 of 117
Are you sure? It looks like you've entered .025 mm.
post #33 of 117
Thread Starter 
No it's in meters. Sorry I said mm and was wrong. it's confusing because the rest of the dimensions are in mm. I first put in 25m and it looked like a seismograph. Lol.

You can actually see some slight cancellation right around 6 or 7 kHz. That changes with 15 and 20 mm offsets.
post #34 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

No it's in meters. Sorry I said mm and was wrong. it's confusing because the rest of the dimensions are in mm. I first put in 25m and it looked like a seismograph. Lol.

You can actually see some slight cancellation right around 6 or 7 kHz. That changes with 15 and 20 mm offsets.

That's odd that it would be meters.
post #35 of 117
Thread Starter 
Wrong
post #36 of 117
Thread Starter 
ARGH My impedence traces were totally screwed. All my cross over work down the toilet. Start over. At least I didn't buy $50 worth of cross over parts and find out later.

And that is what learning is all about I suppose

Lesson - Check your traces by hand, SPL Tracers is not that perfect
post #37 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Lesson - Check your traces by hand, SPL Tracers is not that perfect

Very true. I had to do the traces dozens of times to get it to trace properly. In the end I had to do 2 separate traces, then merge the numbers of both into a single file by converting it to a text file. It was a pain but it worked.
post #38 of 117
Thread Starter 
Bump for an update to the first page. And a question.

I want to get low DCR inductors, and I'm trying to keep costs down. I have about $40 left in my budget to do the cross overs. I can make my budget (before enclosure finishing). But I've been online shopping and found VERY cheap very low DCR inductors on www.loudspeakers.ca. The catch is they're ferrite core Goldwood inductors Without turning this into a cross over component debate, would it be dumb to use those. On a $150/pair speaker, I can't see this being a bad idea.

HELP! haha.

EDIT - I need a 1mH for the woofer and a 0.3 for the tweeter. Also a 0.8mH for the LCR on the woofer.
post #39 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Bump for an update to the first page. And a question.

I want to get low DCR inductors, and I'm trying to keep costs down. I have about $40 left in my budget to do the cross overs. I can make my budget (before enclosure finishing). But I've been online shopping and found VERY cheap very low DCR inductors on www.loudspeakers.ca. The catch is they're ferrite core Goldwood inductors Without turning this into a cross over component debate, would it be dumb to use those. On a $150/pair speaker, I can't see this being a bad idea.

HELP! haha.

EDIT - I need a 1mH for the woofer and a 0.3 for the tweeter. Also a 0.8mH for the LCR on the woofer.

Don't worry about DCR. It will not make any difference in your project. I prefer air core, but the one I looked up was $10 or so, so if you can save significantly compared to that, then it may be acceptable. For low power, I don't think it matters if you use an iron core.
post #40 of 117
Thread Starter 
I wanted to bump this as I've completed XO design. I'd like some feedback. I tried all kinds of variations including LR2 with zobel and notches. Got rediculous. This seemed like the best option.

Sorry the write up is getting lengthy. I'm learning so trying to add tons of info.
post #41 of 117
Thread Starter 
Just another bump cause this one done! Comments would be appreciated. Will post pictures in the sticky once I've finished the finish
post #42 of 117
Thanks for the thread. Great learning for us rookies.
Question about your enclosure: did you switch out to a Parts Express cabinet? The picture of the front baffle looks like one of the PE cabinets.
post #43 of 117
Thread Starter 
No I made my own from scratch. You could use the Dayton .38 cu ft and it should work perfect. I just looked at it and it's an 8" wide baffle, so should work great. So if someone didn't have good tools, a drill and some hole saws would be great. The cost would be more like $250 though.
post #44 of 117
Thread Starter 
I doubt anybody cares, but caved and added measurements They ain't pretty.
post #45 of 117
I care

Could you Gate the measurements out to about 3 ms? That will atleast give you 700Hz and beyond without room interaction. Also set the smoothing to 1/6th.
post #46 of 117
Thread Starter 
Ok I'll give that a shot a little later. I tried gating somewhat, but not too sure what I'm doing. Some things just looked plain wrong. thanks for caring
post #47 of 117
Thread Starter 
Ok, here is a measurement that's been gated. I really looks artificial below ~1500hz. Should I move the gate out further? 3ms is about 120cm? 340000cm/s / 120cm = 3.4ms

You've got a lot of experience with Holm Impulse I think Penn. I'd appreciate the feedback on this one.

post #48 of 117
Tux, that is an interesting graph, did you buy a program to measure the reponse of the speakers you built?
post #49 of 117
Thread Starter 
Al, it's holm impulse and it's free. You do need a mic though. I have an extra you can have. Depending on your sound card we may have to build it a pre amp. There is a thread lilmike started about it. And there are some details about in post 3 of my build.

Oh and 1/6 oct smoothing posted in the build.
post #50 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Al, it's holm impulse and it's free. You do need a mic though. I have an extra you can have. Depending on your sound card we may have to build it a pre amp. There is a thread lilmike started about it. And there are some details about in post 3 of my build.

Oh and 1/6 oct smoothing posted in the build.

Cool, I looked at your post, and it would be interesting to "see" what my speakers sound like!

The HTPC I have in that room doesn't have a sound card, everything is on the mobo (currently using SP/DIF out) to the AVR. I do however have a Diamond Extreme 7.1/24 bit Sound Card that could be installed if need be...

I found threads by lilmike on speaker builds, was there a thread on holm specifically?
post #51 of 117
Thread Starter 
Ah shoot. I'd link you but I'm on my phone. Search "lilmike's mic" thread author lilmike. That should bring it up. The thread is about the WM61A mic. Not about holm.

Do you have a laptop. The soundcard doesn't have to be anything special. Just needs an 1/8th inch mic jack.

You could bring the speakers here, but your room would likely be way better and you should measure the room and subs while you're at it.
post #52 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Ah shoot. I'd link you but I'm on my phone. Search "lilmike's mic" thread author lilmike. That should bring it up. The thread is about the WM61A mic. Not about holm.

Do you have a laptop. The soundcard doesn't have to be anything special. Just needs an 1/8th inch mic jack.

You could bring the speakers here, but your room would likely be way better and you should measure the room and subs while you're at it.

I'll dig further for the thread, is that the mic you have? Will the extra one you mentioned work?

Yep, I have a laptop, and ther HTPC has a mic in as well.

Agreed it would be good to test them in the actual room, and yes those subs too! It would be interesting to see the response in there now as opposed to with the 'new' speakers.
post #53 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Ok, here is a measurement that's been gated. I really looks artificial below ~1500hz. Should I move the gate out further? 3ms is about 120cm? 340000cm/s / 120cm = 3.4ms

You've got a lot of experience with Holm Impulse I think Penn. I'd appreciate the feedback on this one.


The gating looks good for use in x-over work. I usually have mine at 500 hz, but sometimes, depending on how I set my speakers up to measure, I can go lower. You will get the same results as far as the x-over goes, only maybe a little more detail down lower in frequency. When you measured, did you place the speaker on a stand away from walls as far as practical? If you can get the speaker 4 or 5 feet from anything, that helps a lot. You can usually see the first reflection in the impulse response.

Like this. This test was lowpassed to make the high spl more tolerable. Even with earplugs, it was annoying. The test was for distortion. (Not shown.) For x-over work I test at lower spl, but still use the earplugs.



[/url]


See the spike just to the right of the gating setting? That's my first room reflection. You may have to zoom in on the impulse graph to get it to where you can see it easily.
post #54 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Sherwood View Post

Cool, I looked at your post, and it would be interesting to "see" what my speakers sound like!

The HTPC I have in that room doesn't have a sound card, everything is on the mobo (currently using SP/DIF out) to the AVR. I do however have a Diamond Extreme 7.1/24 bit Sound Card that could be installed if need be...

I found threads by lilmike on speaker builds, was there a thread on holm specifically?

I created a HOW TO thread on HOLM a while ago. It covers the basics and should help you a little.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1236094

You must have a mic that can accurately measure higher frequencies. I would recommend the EMM-6 from Dayton or a calibrated ECM8000. The RS meters, etc will have too many issues.

You can go this route or go with the Dayton Omni measurement system for about $300.
post #55 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Ok, here is a measurement that's been gated. I really looks artificial below ~1500hz. Should I move the gate out further? 3ms is about 120cm? 340000cm/s / 120cm = 3.4ms

You've got a lot of experience with Holm Impulse I think Penn. I'd appreciate the feedback on this one.


Kbgl posted good info, that gate is fine for looking at the XO point and beyond. You should change your Impulse window from cm to ms though, then you will know how many miliseconds you are gating out too. You can change it through the menus.

Have you posted this on PE for the designer to help you out? It looks like some XO issues (out of phase wiring?)
post #56 of 117
Thread Starter 
I am the designer. I'll be looking at the gate some more this morning. What looks out of phase? I should have measured reverse polarity when I had the chance, but now my wife and kids are home and that'll be tough.
post #57 of 117
Thread Starter 
Ok, here is 3ms



It's letting something through that shouldn't be there.

kbgl, I did these measurements up against the wall. Very bad placement. I wanted to know what they measured in their listening location. Maybe not a good idea. I could measure these in a while out in the room possibly.

For the XO design I measured out in the room.
post #58 of 117
Thread Starter 
Here is the raw respnse



Lots of blips. Again, bad placement. Probably wasn't a good idea to measure that way. Thought I'd be showing the placement, which was a big part of the design choices (ie. low amount of baffle step compensation, rising top end response, etc.).

Thanks for all the feedback guys.
post #59 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

I am the designer. I'll be looking at the gate some more this morning. What looks out of phase? I should have measured reverse polarity when I had the chance, but now my wife and kids are home and that'll be tough.

You created the XOs yourself?

I though this was a build based on another DIY design. I will re-read about the build because Im confused.
post #60 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Lots of blips. Again, bad placement. Probably wasn't a good idea to measure that way. Thought I'd be showing the placement, which was a big part of the design choices (ie. low amount of baffle step compensation, rising top end response, etc.).

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

Ah, yeah....you need atleast 4 feet in all directions to get a measurement going.

I still think you need to gate it out to about 4 ms to see everything above 1KHz accurately. Then you measure nearfield to get everything below 1KHz, splicing it all together.
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