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HDMI HDCP handshake issues

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
i hate to start a thread about this but haven't found an answer in any of the other threads.
i will just describe my situation and hope that some people who are smarter than i am have an answer.
i have a Panasonic TC-P50G25 that is connected by an HDMI 1.4 compliant cable from a Pioneer VSX-820. i have a Motorola VIP 1216 that is plugged into the receiver as well as an XBOX 360 and a Panasonic Bluray player all with HDMI 1.4 compliant cables.
My problem is that i routinely have the video or video and sound stop working for a few seconds, usually when there is a commercial change. it is not an overheating situation...i know this for certain. (i actually thought it was my brand new Denon AVR-391 causing this so i replaced it once and then returned it for the PIoneer, which obviously has the same issue.
i did have an HDMI switch that ran through an older Denon with no HDMI and didnt have any of these problems. ironically i "upgraded" and now have difficulties. i am not using rear speakers but i do have two front speakers and a center speaker. the speakers are 8 ohms and the wiring is fine so i am sure that isn't the issue.
please...any help to fix the hdmi issue would be greatly appreciated. watching tv is almost unbearable with all the constant shutdowns!!
post #2 of 12
Step 1. Check all your component settings for HDMI. Setting a fixed resolution often helps instead of auto. Turn off all the CEC features like Viera link. turn off deep color. Take any inputs off of auto and make them HDMI. Also remove any HDMI wall plates, port savers, etc. Run the cables direct from one component to the other. If this doesn't work go to step 2.

Step 2. Try all your sources and your receiver in a lower resolution. Try 720P then 480P. If this solves the problem then you most likely have a cabling problem or a component which doesn't accept 1080P but with your equipment I'd say that is unlikely. But you might have one that doesn't accept deep color.

Step 3. To isolate the problem you need to determine if it is a problem with cables or equipment. To do this place all your equipment near each other and use 6' or less cables for all the connections. Longer runs tend to have more problems and we want to see if that is the issue. Although it is possible to have cable problems with shorter cables it is less likely. Ideally you should use cables rated by DPL labs to know they have passed a third party test which exceeds HDMI standards.

If you do not have problems with the short cables then it is a cabling problem. If you still have problems with the short cables then try to find which components is the problem. Does the problem happen with all sources? If so then it is the receiver or the TV?

If it is a cabling problem there are typically 3 solutions.

1. Use better cables. As mentioned previously use one tested by DPL as their is a lot of snake oil out there with cables even with the new HDMI labeling standard.

2. Use a quality balun. I'd recommend this for runs over 20'.

3. Use signal restorer on your HDMI cable. A good solution if your cable is in the wall and not easy to remove. Although, it can correct many HDMI cabling problems it does not perform miracles if it is bad cable.

Hope this helps.

Bob
post #3 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by blancenese View Post

My problem is that i routinely have the video or video and sound stop working for a few seconds, usually when there is a commercial change. it is not an overheating situation...i know this for certain. (i actually thought it was my brand new Denon AVR-391 causing this so i replaced it once and then returned it for the PIoneer, which obviously has the same issue.

It's unfortunate you didn't post this in the Denon 391 Owner's thread before giving it up as you would have been told that HDMI handshake issues with cable/sat boxes are very common with Motorola being one of the worst offenders. The easiest workaround is to connect the HDMI cable directly to the TV with an optical cable from the Moto to the AVR.
post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
jd - i read through the AVR-391 forums but apparently missed the references you mentioned.

bob - i actually started a few weeks ago with step 3 and bought high end hdmi cables that are as short as possible. still didn't work. the suggestion about "running one component to another"...do you mean like in a serial arrangement? i don't understand what you mean. i will also have to look up deepcolor since that is not a setting i have looked at. thanks
post #5 of 12
Running one component to the other I meant do not use any port savers, wall plates, adapters, other cable extenders, etc. So you only have one cable between the components and nothing else.

Are all the cables you are using for testing < 6'? What signal restorer did you try? Are the high end cables DPL approved? Did it work in a lower resolution?
post #6 of 12
do you ever remember seeing any 8-bit and 12-bit settings, either on your tv or the other components? I seem to remember fixing one setup once by returning any, and all such check boxes to their lower (8-bit) setting. But, unfortunately, I can't remember where the setting was within the menus.
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 
all my cables are running directly to components and i have no other wall plates and such in the system.
post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
cannot find anything related to setting like that in the menus.
post #9 of 12
^^^

look for something called "deep color", and turn it off...
post #10 of 12
If you have tested with short cables and tried everything mentioned it sounds like you have an equipment problem. It sounds like a problem with authentication because HDMI has to re-authenticate every 2 seconds for HDCP. Many times that is a cabling issue but let's try to diagnose a little further.

Does this happen on all sources? Does it happen if you bypass the receiver and connect your sources directly to the TV? If yes to both of these it is likely a problem with the TV.

If it happens with just the vip 1216 there are settings in that component that can be adjusted. On many of the motorola boxes you turn off the power and hit the 'menu' and you'll have some options to adjust. This can vary by provider so it is tough to give exact directions.

If it does happen on all sources but works fine bypassing the receiver does not mean it is the receiver. It could still be the TV. That's the problem with HDMI is there is no decent inexpensive tools to diagnose problems. At this point it is trial and error.

Bob
post #11 of 12
This extender/booster didn't work to solve my handshake issue. Made it much worse, actually.

http://www.wayfair.com/Comprehensive-HDMI-Booster-Female-to-Male-pigtail-CRP-HD110-CH2219.html?init=1

And Wayfair doesn't accept returns of their defective items.

UPDATE/CORRECTION: Wayfair returned my defective booster for credit despite saying they would not.
Edited by cshawnmcdonald - 10/30/12 at 1:17pm
post #12 of 12
Extenders, port savers or any other extra connections are not recommended.

HDMI troubleshooting. Get your system in one place, usually in the case of a projector/TV you'll probably have to take it down and bring it close to your equipment. Test the system with short HDMI cable less than 2 meters (6 feet). If the system works and doesn't with your longer cables you have a cabling problem, period! Find a solution for it, either a different cable, HDMI signal restorer or a balun. Remove all port savers, wall plates, 90 degree adapters, etc. Each connection changes capacitance and may be the straw the breaks the camels back. A cable between devices is usually best.

If the system doesn't work with short cables then I'd look at an equipment problem either in the settings or a problem with the equipment. Although it is possible to have a bad short cable it is less likely. It might be a pain to take down the projector/ TV or move the other equipment but until you isolate the type of problem you are having you can spend a lot of time chasing your tale.

A quick test without moving equipment is to change the resolution of your equipment to 480P and see if you get a picture. If you do it is probably a cabling problem. If you don't it could still be the cable on the DDC line, so it doesn't rule it out. Putting all the equipment together and using short cables is the best diagnosing you can do without test equipment. This can't be stated enough.
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