JVC RS40/X3 Calibration Thread - Page 13

I have been away from this thread for some time just enjoying my projector.

The dealer lent me JVC emitter, glasses and 3D movies to try out. The emitter does not work on my projector. I have trouble shot with JVC and OPPO on this.

The same emitter, glasses etc. work on the dealers JVC.

I properly enabled the OPPO for 3D in the menu settings. I enabled 3D on the JVC and was informed that if I set the JVC to side by side it will emit light from the emitter that is able to be seen. It did not. I also tried looking through a digital camera lens as that is supposed to be able to show the emitter lights, it did not.

I do get the double image on the screen though.

It is my hope this has already occurred to someone and there was an easy fix?

So I calibrated my RS40 with the new Eye1 Pro OEM and Calman and I tried to use positive offsets which greatly increased my black level. Just wanted to add to the earlier comments on this thread saying using positive offsets would increase it. I'll try again later in the week to keep all the number negative.

I also have to set the color temp to 6000k to get a measured 6500k. My 6500k setting is almost 7000K

I had to use a custom gamma as well. The flatest gamma curve I could get was using the 2.5 preset Gamma as a base which measured 2.2 from 50% up to 100% but had a spike up to 2.5 from 15%-30% and then came down to 2.4 at 40%. I pulled down the white to get a flat 2.2 gamma across the range but I was surprised how far off the presets where.
My Green saturation point is also a good bit higher than the ideal point. Blue and Red are pretty close.

Sorry, but it is IMPOSSIBLE to improve the black level by using the OFFSET controlers of the RS40. You should only use the GAIN controlers and the gamma eqaulizer. The OFFSET controlers are totally useless !

I think he meant it raised the black floor, not made it better.

I meant it raised the black level floor making it worse.

Is this problem only on the AVS HD disc or all discs? If it screws up all discs then wouldn't calibration fix the bug?

I used the AVS HD calibration disc burned to DVR played on an Oppo BDP-93

Ah, ok. You should NEVER use the offset controlers of the RS40. Use only the GAIN-controlers to adjust 100 IRE. Then use the gamma equalizer to adjust 10 - 90 IRE, NOT 100 IRE !

I would love to get some of your expert opinions in the following thread: Preferred Gamma for JVC Projectors

Has anyone used the CMS in the service menu? Would I be able to reduce some over-saturated yellows in skin tones? IS there any risk to trying?

I did a little testing in the service menu CMS.

When you enter the service menu it is interesting to note that in the grayscale section, there are default offsets for each grayscale temp. Using the "reset" option does not change these values, so they seem to be hard coded. Though I wonder if vary from unit to unit. I wrote down all my defaults for each mode before hitting reset! Luckily I didn't need to re-enter them.

In the main adjust menu there a are selectors for color temp and mode. I was confused at first if this is where you could set the default temp for each mode but after testing, it does not appear to be the case.

The actual CMS is interesting as it has the following setting for each color and by default all are set to 0 for each mode.
Ang. - not sure what that is
Saturation
Hue

I think those are the settings...It's been a few hours and I'll look again tonight.
There is also a pause option that freezes what is onscreen so you can adjust while it is paused. There are also before and compare buttons, but I could not toggle to them.

The only options that I found to really make a difference were the Skin and RY1 settings. I found that setting the Skin did help to get a more natural skin tone. RY1 was useful in getting rid of some red over saturation.

Again these are all very subjective observations. I have not done a proper grayscale calibration yet, as I still need to get myself a meter. So I am doing the best I can, using my ISF calibrated 60" DLP as a reference for what things "Should" look like and trying to match as best I can. My goal is to get believable color, since accuracy is not possible without a meter.


I'll play around some more tonight and report back my findings. These settings probably won't be great for getting accurate color points, but they might help in taming some minor color issues.

Thanks for your post...

After further evaluation tonight, I set the cms values back to 0 (default). They really aren't useful and I had better results without them. I could see some slight tweaking, especially of the skin tone control being useful for some. Still I wonder why JVC even put it there, especially since all default values are 0.

I'm having an issue getting brightness and contrast right on my RS40. using the spears and munsil disk, ideally I would like to set contrast at 7. However, using the clipping patter blue and red are solid boxes, so I have to knock it down to 3. Any idea why blue and red are being clipped at 7 and what I might need to adjust?

Also I'm confused as to what the black level control really does in realation to the brightness control. The first post of this thread suggests setting black level to 0 before setting brightness and then adjusting as needed from there like a fine adjustment. What I find is that at I can't get to a point where on the pluge pattern the left two bars are hidden, but the checkerboard pattern on the sides (level 17) still shows. Either they all show...brightness to high....or I end up clipping 17.

Thoughts?

I and others have complained about the 16/17. Basically, just set the level so 17 disappears and 18 is visible, - you probably won't notice the difference.

The other option, will also help with your blue/red issue. Go in to set a custom color temperature and edit that temperature. Since you don't have a meter, use the base temperature of whatever you were using before. Then, in this menu, you can adjust the brightness/contrast (they are labeled Offset and Gain) of Red, Green, and Blue separately. I believe this allowed me to get 17 to show and 16 to be hidden, and you should also be able to reduce the red and blue gain without affecting green.

Just purchased the rs40. Colors don't look right in dark scenes. Could someone post calibration settings?

Good evening folks,

As a first time owner of a projector (RS40U B-stock), I have scheduled a professional calibrator to come get me dialed in with the new Dalite screen.

My question is this: In the future, it is reasonable to expect that I would be able to perform similar adjustments to the system is some basic calibration equipment?
Are we talking about a few hundred in get into self cal or is it more like thousands?

From what I have been reading, its looks like the calibration process takes a fair amount of time and knowledge to do it right.

Thanks for taking a bit of time to respond.

Thanks.

See first page of owners forum...

2D Picture settings:

Natural preset
Aperture between -5 and -10 (new bulb against low gain screen)
Normal lamp mode
Color space: standard (rec709)
Color temp: 6500
Gamma: A, or B
Sharpness: 15
Detail: 15 to 25
Brightness/contrast/tint: 0
Color saturation: up to your discretion (i have mine at 25)

I used these on mine and it looks okay. I then tried to calibrate using my WOW disk it looked worse. Went back to these settings. Still looking for better calibration. I may have to get professional calibration or buy a colorimeter.

I haven't gotten into it yet either, but I was thinking about it at one point. My understanding is that it's generally a few hundred to get started, but you're right in that the learning curve is the main issue. The meter/software isn't too expensive, but knowing how to use it is the hard part. There will probably be an investment in time/learning before you can really do much good with the equipment.

When I originally bought my RS40 I decided to have AVS calibrate it before they shipped it, which worked out great. It probably needs to be adjusted again, but still looks good enough to my eyes that I'm not worried about it right now.

If it helps, this is a thread I started with, and will probably go back to if I decide to dive in...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536

Yeah, I did a quick grayscale calibration using just the color temperature controls at about 30 hours. At 350 hours, I measured again and it was pretty far off (relatively speaking - visibly not the same color temp). Its probably a lot more stable now, so I'm going to re-adjust with the gamma controls now to dial things in more.

So is it accurate to state that there is no way to calibrate the temperature presets in the Service Menu?

You just use a User1-3 profile and use one for a starting point only and then adjust accordingly?

It would have been nice IMO to be able to get the presets to their labled values.
Does zooming the image affect any of the settings? I.e., I have a Cinemascope screen and no anamorphic lens, so I have to zoom in/out between formats.

There is no apparent color shift, but does this impact brightness/contrast, etc.? If so, I guess I'll need to set up profiles for each. With the very limited viewing I've done so far, this doesn't seem to be a problem, but wanted to ask the experienced community.

AaronS

Thank you.

However, it's hard for me to believe that an ISF calibrator would recommend sharpness or detail as these controls normally introduce more artifacts than any small enhancement they provide are worth.

Perhaps my pj is too new to calibrate, however I'm experimenting with these right now.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/jvc/...alibration.php

The sharpness and detail controls on this JVC are extremely tiny increments, you have to move it a lot to get the artifacts to start showing up. On top of that, I used the sharpness pattern on test Blu-rays, and sharpness/detail settings of 0 definitely remove (blur) some sharpness, so a non-zero value is necessary. Finding that perfect 0 setting is difficult, however, since the increments are so fine and you have to play the sharpness control against the detail control. If I remember correctly, the projector defaults are a good setting to go with.

This is my 2D settings using WOW disk:
Animation mode
Normal lamp mode
Color space: wide1
Color temp: 6500
Gamma: D
Sharpness: 40
Detail: 20
Brightness: -5
Contrast: 8
Clolor/tint: 0
Hdmi: enhanced
Aparture fully opened
Hours: 450

I can see it's a bit off from many proffesional settings here, but am quite happy with it. Blame the vivid mode on my Sony LCD that I used to for the past four years

I must have missed it in this tread so I checked with JVC on how to determine how to check firmware.

Thank you for contacting JVC Customer Care. I am Mikel, your email care specialist. We value you as a JVC customer and appreciate the opportunity to be of assistance.

I understand you are inquiring about how to check if your DLA-RS40U projector has the latest firmware. Please follow the steps below to check the update version.

1. Power ON the projector and wait for Video (or Blue Screen) to display.
2. Connect PC to Projector using the USB cable and open ILA-FPJ updater software.
a. Mini USB end connects to projector
b. Large USB end connects to the PC
3. Press [Get Ver.] button in ILA-FPJ Updater while video (or Blue Screen) is displayed.
a. Nothing will occur immediately.
b. Please wait approx 30sec to 1min for Version.
4. After approx 30seconds the Firmware version will be displayed.
5. Disconnect USB and press [Exit] to close ILA-FPJ Updater.
6. Reinstall USB cover and Screw.

Ron,

Do you know if the Sony BDP-S550 suffers from this issue?

AaronS