AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › JVC RS40/X3 Calibration Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

JVC RS40/X3 Calibration Thread - Page 14

post #391 of 431
4/4/12 at 4:38pm
I already posted this in the official thread, but it's better to ask it here

after 461 hours on my second lamp I decided to buy light meter and measure the lumens using the center screen method on the white background in the service menu. Since this is my first projector, I really appreciate your input whether the below results is acceptable or not:
- animation preset
- contrast 8
- brightnes -5 (hdmi enhanced)
-color\ int 0
-color space wide1
- color temp 8000
-aperture 0
-calibrated using WOW disk
- screen is 114" with 1.3 gain (Da-Lite) with through distance of about 135"
-Lux 187/Lumens 670 in normal mode

Is this is acceptable? also, for a healthy lamp, will the brightness stabilize at this level?
thanks and appreciate your advice
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #392 of 431
4/4/12 at 5:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ana_moo_ana View Post

I already posted this in the official thread, but it's better to ask it here

after 461 hours on my second lamp I decided to buy light meter and measure the lumens using the center screen method on the white background in the service menu. Since this is my first projector, I really appreciate your input whether the below results is acceptable or not:
- animation preset
- contrast 8
- brightnes -5 (hdmi enhanced)
-color\ int 0
-color space wide1
- color temp 8000
-aperture 0
-calibrated using WOW disk
- screen is 114" with 1.3 gain (Da-Lite) with through distance of about 135"
-Lux 187/Lumens 670 in normal mode

Is this is acceptable? also, for a healthy lamp, will the brightness stabilize at this level?
thanks and appreciate your advice

Sounds about right. Look up the RS40 lumens thread, you'll find more measurements from others and will be able to compare.
Reply
Reply
post #393 of 431
4/15/12 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohotos View Post

Sounds about right. Look up the RS40 lumens thread, you'll find more measurements from others and will be able to compare.

many thanks
Reply
Reply
post #394 of 431
4/21/12 at 11:24am
I'm trying to adjust gamma and here is the issue I am running into:

I currently am using a custom setting with a correction value of 2.3. That works great for content that is not very dark. When I was watching Harry Potter Deathly Hallows 2 last night, I found that shadow detail was really lacking. If I tried preset A, all that detail is visible, but the picture looks too washed out during brighter scenes.

So I made a new custom Gamma using 2.3 as a correction and was messing with boosting 5% and 10% (White) values a bit. It did help get the dark detail back, but I lose a bit of contrast in brighter scenes....not nearly as much as using preset A.

I don't have a meter yet, and I know I can't really nail gamma without one, but can I get close using 2.3 and boosting 5% and 10%? Are there just tradeoffs I am going to have to accept? My method was to start with dark scenes that had some highlights...like light reflecting off of faces. Adjusting 5% and 10% until the details were more visible but highlights didn't look blown out. I found I needed to make smaller corrections to 15% and 20% to make thing look more even. I didn't touch anything above 20%.

Brightness is at -7 and contrast at about 3-5 (HDMI enhanced). Any higher contrast and R and B channels show clipping. IRIS is at -12 normal lamp mode.

Thoughts/advice?
Reply
Reply
post #395 of 431
4/22/12 at 6:28am
I use normal gamma. It looks pretty good. But my pj doesn't quite have a 100 hours on it yet.
Reply
Reply
post #396 of 431
4/22/12 at 9:01am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

I'm trying to adjust gamma and here is the issue I am running into:

I currently am using a custom setting with a correction value of 2.3. That works great for content that is not very dark. When I was watching Harry Potter Deathly Hallows 2 last night, I found that shadow detail was really lacking. If I tried preset A, all that detail is visible, but the picture looks too washed out during brighter scenes.

So I made a new custom Gamma using 2.3 as a correction and was messing with boosting 5% and 10% (White) values a bit. It did help get the dark detail back, but I lose a bit of contrast in brighter scenes....not nearly as much as using preset A.

I don't have a meter yet, and I know I can't really nail gamma without one, but can I get close using 2.3 and boosting 5% and 10%? Are there just tradeoffs I am going to have to accept? My method was to start with dark scenes that had some highlights...like light reflecting off of faces. Adjusting 5% and 10% until the details were more visible but highlights didn't look blown out. I found I needed to make smaller corrections to 15% and 20% to make thing look more even. I didn't touch anything above 20%.

Brightness is at -7 and contrast at about 3-5 (HDMI enhanced). Any higher contrast and R and B channels show clipping. IRIS is at -12 normal lamp mode.

Thoughts/advice?

When calibrating my RS40 I found out that on my projector all of the gamma presets were really poor. Even selecting custom gamma and the selecting the maximum 2.6 preset, the measured gamma toward the black end of the grey scale was only a little over 2.0 and it dropped to about 1.6 near the white end of the grey scale. When I calibrated a friend's RS40 his projector's presets were a little better with his custom gamma preset of 2.4 having a measured gamma of near 2.2 near the black end of grey scale and 1.8 near the white end. I was able to create a custom curve that kept the gamma readings within the range of 2.2 to 2.3 across the grey scale range for both projectors. I do know that some of these JVC projector's have reasonably good gamma using the presets, but certainly some units do not. If you have one like mine then you may not find any of the gamma presets acceptable and this can only be corrected with creating a custom gamma curve and this requires either you get a professional calibration or a diy calibration using a sensor, colorimeter software running on a PC, and test patterns (from a blu-ray test disc such at the AVS HD Calibratiion Disc -- see Post #1 of this thread for more info on the tools required for doing your own calibration).

As for the contrast setting, on my projector the red channel will have clipping, or at least start to have compression issues, if the contrast is set above 7 or 8 (in HDMI enhanced mode). Also setting the contrast too high will have a negative impact on the gamma. Anyone using the AVS HD Calibration disc to set the reference white level (using the projector's contrast control) should in addition to using the grey bar pattern (i.e, black and white patterns) also do a check using the individual red, blue and green patterns since using just the grey bar pattern can lead to setting the contrast too high. This is because the on-set of clipping of just one of the colors may not be obvious from viewing the grey bar pattern. The contrast control should be set low enough that the bars for levels 235 (at least) and lower are seen flashing in the individual red, blue and green test patterns and not just on the grey bar (i.e., black and white) test pattern.
Reply
Reply
post #397 of 431
4/22/12 at 10:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

When calibrating my RS40 I found out that on my projector all of the gamma presets were really poor. Even selecting custom gamma and the selecting the maximum 2.6 preset, the measured gamma toward the black end of the grey scale was only a little over 2.0 and it dropped to about 1.6 near the white end of the grey scale. When I calibrated a friend's RS40 his projector's presets were a little better with his custom gamma preset of 2.4 having a measured gamma of near 2.2 near the black end of grey scale and 1.8 near the white end. I was able to create a custom curve that kept the gamma readings within the range of 2.2 to 2.3 across the grey scale range for both projectors. I do know that some of these JVC projector's have reasonably good gamma using the presets, but certainly some units do not. If you have one like mine then you may not find any of the gamma presets acceptable and this can only be corrected with creating a custom gamma curve and this requires either you get a professional calibration or a diy calibration using a sensor, colorimeter software running on a PC, and test patterns (from a blu-ray test disc such at the AVS HD Calibratiion Disc -- see Post #1 of this thread for more info on the tools required for doing your own calibration).

As for the contrast setting, on my projector the red channel will have clipping, or at least start to have compression issues, if the contrast is set above 7 or 8 (in HDMI enhanced mode). Also setting the contrast too high will have a negative impact on the gamma. Anyone using the AVS HD Calibration disc to set the reference white level (using the projector's contrast control) should in addition to using the grey bar pattern (i.e, black and white patterns) also do a check using the individual red, blue and green patterns since using just the grey bar pattern can lead to setting the contrast too high. This is because the on-set of clipping of just one of the colors may not be obvious from viewing the grey bar pattern. The contrast control should be set low enough that the bars for levels 235 (at least) and lower are seen flashing in the individual red, blue and green test patterns and not just on the grey bar (i.e., black and white) test pattern.



I think in my case a custome gamma of 2.3 is good for most material. It was really just Deathly Hallows that is such a a dark film that I found it too dark. So I just used preset A for that film....of course the end of that movie is brighter and looks better at 2.3. I may just keep two user modes for such cases.

I found a contrast of 3 avoids clipping. In any case anything above 7 and the overall picture starts to look washed out. 5 is a bit of a compromise with some clipping in Red and Blue, but a bit better highlights than 3.

I plan to get a calibration kit this Christmas. Looking the Calman package with the OEM i1Display Colorimeter and auto cal add on, since it supports the RS 40.
Reply
Reply
post #398 of 431
4/22/12 at 3:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post


I think in my case a custome gamma of 2.3 is good for most material. It was really just Deathly Hallows that is such a a dark film that I found it too dark. So I just used preset A for that film....of course the end of that movie is brighter and looks better at 2.3. I may just keep two user modes for such cases.

I found a contrast of 3 avoids clipping. In any case anything above 7 and the overall picture starts to look washed out. 5 is a bit of a compromise with some clipping in Red and Blue, but a bit better highlights than 3.

I plan to get a calibration kit this Christmas. Looking the Calman package with the OEM i1Display Colorimeter and auto cal add on, since it supports the RS 40.

Sadly, in my experience the calman autocal with the jvc was painfully slow, and I didn't feel it got things right. Things worked very nicely with my lumagen however. Using a gamma of 2.3 with 2.2 for 10% and 2.1for 5% looks really nice.
Reply
Reply
post #399 of 431
4/22/12 at 3:55pm
hi
im thinking to get RS45 soon,just asking about some advice about calibration tools.
In place where im living its very hard to get someone to calibrate pj so i have to do it by myself,any sugestions about cheepest and easiest working set for calibrate PJ and also maybe some TV plasma in my house

regards,
Reply
Reply
post #400 of 431
4/22/12 at 4:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dmaven View Post

Sadly, in my experience the calman autocal with the jvc was painfully slow, and I didn't feel it got things right. Things worked very nicely with my lumagen however. Using a gamma of 2.3 with 2.2 for 10% and 2.1for 5% looks really nice.

What meter were you using? I liked the autocal option b/c I thought it would be a great way to learn. I could see what the software adjusted after it's done, and I can try doing it manually and still know I can run autocal if am not getting it right while learning.


Slow I don't mind, but accuracy is obviously important.
Reply
Reply
post #401 of 431
4/23/12 at 11:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dmaven View Post

Sadly, in my experience the calman autocal with the jvc was painfully slow, and I didn't feel it got things right. Things worked very nicely with my lumagen however.

I have to concur with this statement. I did not like the autocal for JVC, but it works great with the Lumagen. The RS40 doesn't have CMS either.
Reply
Reply
post #402 of 431
4/23/12 at 12:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post

I have to concur with this statement. I did not like the autocal for JVC, but it works great with the Lumagen. The RS40 doesn't have CMS either.

I know there is no CMS. I just want to do greyscale and gamma.

Is it just that the autocal is slow, or slow and inaccurate? I am wondering what meter you guys were using.
Reply
Reply
post #403 of 431
4/23/12 at 12:38pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

I know there is no CMS. I just want to do greyscale and gamma.

Is it just that the autocal is slow, or slow and inaccurate? I am wondering what meter you guys were using.

I'm using the Eye-One (i1) Display 3 Pro (calibrated) that I purchased as a bundle with the Chromapure software. You can get a small discount on the bundle by purchasing thru the AVS Store (or at least you could last fall). The least expensive decent setup (but not as accurate as what I'm currently using) would be use the free HCFR software and the now discontinued i1 Display 2 LT sensor. See Post #1 of this thread for more infomation on these and other sensors and software.
Reply
Reply
post #404 of 431
4/23/12 at 12:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

I'm using the Eye-One (i1) Display 3 Pro (calibrated) that I purchased as a bundle with the Chromapure software. You can get a small discount on the bundle by purchasing thru the AVS Store (or at least you could last fall). The least expensive decent setup (but not as accurate as what I'm currently using) would be use the free HCFR software and the now discontinued i1 Display 2 LT sensor. See Post #1 of this thread for more infomation on these and other sensors and software.

As I am just starting to look at calibration meters and software, I really will need to do my homework. The i1 Display 3 pro package with chroma pure is still under $600 and in my price range.

I need to look into the differences between Chromapure, Calman, HCFR, ect. And get some opinions on meter options. I'd like to stay under $600 for both.

I have looked at the thread you mentioned, but will have to really dig in more.
Reply
Reply
post #405 of 431
4/23/12 at 12:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

I know there is no CMS. I just want to do greyscale and gamma.

Is it just that the autocal is slow, or slow and inaccurate? I am wondering what meter you guys were using.

I agree with what Ron said. I bought an i1 LT off Amazon for good price and learned to calibrate using free HCFR and "how-to" guides. For a JVC w/o CMS, I suggest going this path as being inexpensive and will do the job, plus you'll learn OTJ.

I sold my i1 and migrated to a Chroma 5 and Expert s/w via a good package deal from Calman. I made the upgrade when I decided to get a Lumagen. I wanted autocal function and better meter. Probably overkill, but it's a one-time purchase that should last longer than I will.
Reply
Reply
post #406 of 431
4/23/12 at 4:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post

I agree with what Ron said. I bought an i1 LT off Amazon for good price and learned to calibrate using free HCFR and "how-to" guides. For a JVC w/o CMS, I suggest going this path as being inexpensive and will do the job, plus you'll learn OTJ.

I sold my i1 and migrated to a Chroma 5 and Expert s/w via a good package deal from Calman. I made the upgrade when I decided to get a Lumagen. I wanted autocal function and better meter. Probably overkill, but it's a one-time purchase that should last longer than I will.

Is the i1 Display 2 LT going to work for a projector? It looks like it's made for flat screens. Will it really do a decent job for greyscale?

Besides greyscale and gamma (and obviously brightness and contrast)....isn't that all you can calibrate on an RS40?


Would this be what you are recommending? I could definitely afford this right now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-RITE-EYE-O...ht_1017wt_1144
Reply
Reply
post #407 of 431
4/23/12 at 7:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

I know there is no CMS. I just want to do greyscale and gamma.

Is it just that the autocal is slow, or slow and inaccurate? I am wondering what meter you guys were using.

I have a colormunki spectro and a new OEM i1display colorimeter, and the meters work very well with Calman. The control of the JVC projector via the Calman sluggish is slow to respond to changes. For instance when you drag a control to change a setting on the JVC it takes several passes of adjusting and measuring to get it right (which is how it is supposed to work) but it takes a quite a while for the projector to make each change. So the process can be a bit tortuous and slow. The results are generally very good though.
Reply
Reply
post #408 of 431
4/23/12 at 7:28pm
So would you guys recommend grabbing this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-RITE-EYE-O...ht_1017wt_1144

I also found an LT on videogon for the same price....might be a better option.

http://cgi.videogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.p...Display-one-LT

From what I can tell the eye-one LT and the eye-one display 2 are the same, except for the bundled software which doesn't matter to me.

Thoughts? Should I grab one of these?
Reply
Reply
post #409 of 431
4/24/12 at 10:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

So would you guys recommend grabbing this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-RITE-EYE-O...ht_1017wt_1144

I also found an LT on videogon for the same price....might be a better option.

http://cgi.videogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.p...Display-one-LT

From what I can tell the eye-one LT and the eye-one display 2 are the same, except for the bundled software which doesn't matter to me.

Thoughts? Should I grab one of these?

Word on the street is that the i1Display2 filters inside can deteriorate if it is not stored properly . . . that would prevent me from buying one used, as you don't know how bad it is. Others have posted here the red can go pretty far off in only a year's time.

I have had an i1D2 for a year and a half now (although its a specially made one for wide gamut measuring), but I've kept mine stored in a sealed ziploc bag with a large bag of desiccant, and out of light. I just had it out recently, and the numbers read off my 10 year old monitor were less than 1.0 deltaE off from when I calibrated it a year and a half ago, so it does appear to hold up well, but only if stored properly. Buying a used one, there's no way to tell how good or bad it may be.
Reply
Reply
post #410 of 431
4/24/12 at 1:26pm
Then again, if you pay full price, you have no idea how long it's been sitting either really. I'd take a shot on the one at Videogon since I've listed stuff there and have had good experience with it. I'd trust something from there over Craigslist or eBay. At $39+$5 shipping, you really can't go wrong. That's a very decent price. Try emailing the seller for more info too if you must.

Then get free HFCR and how-to guide and go at it. You're only using it to tweak your Greyscale/Gamma, but will probably get improvements over default/recommended settings and eye-balling it. You'll also learn calibration in the process for little very cost. You can always step up to something better down the road.

Another option is to consider the SpectraCal Calman DIY and C1 meter combo for $299. You should call them for pricing including the JVC autocal license and work something out.
Reply
Reply
post #411 of 431
4/24/12 at 3:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post

Then again, if you pay full price, you have no idea how long it's been sitting either really. I'd take a shot on the one at Videogon since I've listed stuff there and have had good experience with it. I'd trust something from there over Craigslist or eBay. At $39+$5 shipping, you really can't go wrong. That's a very decent price. Try emailing the seller for more info too if you must.

Very true, however, going off reports from curtpalme.com, the i1Display has the least variance from unit to unit, if it has been stored properly (I received mine sealed with silica gel):
Unlike the (only slightly) lower priced Spyder meters, the X-Rite Eye One Display 2/LT is calibrated at the factory as they come off the assembly line. As such, our experience has been that they are all reasonably accurate consistent from unit to unit. This factory calibration most certainly has a lot to do with it.

Colorimeters like the Display 2/LT do drift faster than spectroradiometers so it's best to always get one that's as fresh as possible. Always purchase one from a place that has high turn around, or get the unit calibrated at the time of purchase. You do not want a unit that's been sitting around at hot/humid warehouse for quite some time before being sold to you. And the price, well, I agree $45 is a steal, my only concern would be, if it was off, how would you know? Early on in this thread, people were reporting gross red push from old i1D2 meters. But if its somewhere between good and really bad, how would you know?

The method I've used, is I primarily got my meter for monitor calibration, and when I work on photos and load the lab's ICC profile in photoshop for proofing, then save the photos with their ICC profile, when they come back from the lab, the colors (under proper light source) appear (by eye) the same as what's on the monitor. Using this method, I know that at least my meter is better than a calibration by eye.

Regardless, this meter doesn't degrade in its light-detection ability, so it should still be very useful to set gamma even if the color is way off.
Reply
Reply
post #412 of 431
4/24/12 at 8:35pm
Agreed with all points. Your handling and storage of an i1 is an excellent method and good idea for all owners to practice. I did notice that curtpalme.com did mention warehouse, so my point about buying from Amazon vs. used is just as valid. You really don't know what you're getting unless it has been calibrated at purchase time which does suggest using curtpalme.com or SpectraCal.com as safe sources for meters.
Reply
Reply
post #413 of 431
4/25/12 at 8:00am
I have a quick question. When doing a lens memory adjustment, does this JVC model sense the inside edges of the screen masking and correct the picture so that the horizontal and vertical edges of the picture line up with the horizontal and vertical edges of the screen?

Wolfie
Reply
Reply
post #414 of 431
4/25/12 at 9:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post

I have a quick question. When doing a lens memory adjustment, does this JVC model sense the inside edges of the screen masking and correct the picture so that the horizontal and vertical edges of the picture line up with the horizontal and vertical edges of the screen?

Wolfie

The RS40 does not have lens memory. The RS45 does, I believe. You might want to check over in that thread.
Reply
Reply
post #415 of 431
4/25/12 at 12:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

The RS40 does not have lens memory. The RS45 does, I believe. You might want to check over in that thread.

DUH!! My bad. Please disregard the earlier post.

Wolfie
Reply
Reply
post #416 of 431
4/30/12 at 8:41am
Has anyone used the auto-calibrate feature with chromapure? I'm not sure I'll ever attain the expertise to do this properly myself, yet having a professional do this doesn't make sense if it needs to be done at regular intervals (as the bulb ages). I'd like to be able to run the video calibration myself like I run my audio calibration (push button, move mic around, and let audyssey figure it out). I know the basics of video calibration, but doing the full job manually seems daunting with a lot of learning curve.

Here's what I'm considering purchasing...
- ChromaPure with Auto-Calibrate
- EyeOne Display 3
- Lumagen RadianceMini 3D

Has anyone tried this with the RS40/X3? What kind of results can I expect?
Reply
Reply
post #417 of 431
5/1/12 at 11:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan P. View Post

Has anyone used the auto-calibrate feature with chromapure? I'm not sure I'll ever attain the expertise to do this properly myself, yet having a professional do this doesn't make sense if it needs to be done at regular intervals (as the bulb ages). I'd like to be able to run the video calibration myself like I run my audio calibration (push button, move mic around, and let audyssey figure it out). I know the basics of video calibration, but doing the full job manually seems daunting with a lot of learning curve.

Here's what I'm considering purchasing...
- ChromaPure with Auto-Calibrate
- EyeOne Display 3
- Lumagen RadianceMini 3D

Has anyone tried this with the RS40/X3? What kind of results can I expect?

I've done it on my rs50 using a Mini3D and a chroma5. The results were excellent to my untrained eye.
Reply
Reply
post #418 of 431
5/1/12 at 4:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan P. View Post

Has anyone used the auto-calibrate feature with chromapure? I'm not sure I'll ever attain the expertise to do this properly myself, yet having a professional do this doesn't make sense if it needs to be done at regular intervals (as the bulb ages). I'd like to be able to run the video calibration myself like I run my audio calibration (push button, move mic around, and let audyssey figure it out). I know the basics of video calibration, but doing the full job manually seems daunting with a lot of learning curve.

Here's what I'm considering purchasing...
- ChromaPure with Auto-Calibrate
- EyeOne Display 3
- Lumagen RadianceMini 3D

Has anyone tried this with the RS40/X3? What kind of results can I expect?

If ChromaPure works as well as Calman auto with the Lumagen, you should be fine. I get excellent results with Calman auto, Chroma 5, and my Lumagen XS3D. I could readily see the improvement. However, is it worth a $2K investment, only you can answer.

The calibration s/w and meter are a good long term investments at $419. And for what it's worth, non-auto calibration isn't all that bad really. You could calibrate your grayscale first and if you're still struggling with it or feel the colors are off, add the mini 3D later for CMS and autocal. Not sure about ChromaPure, but Calman does provide auto-calibration of grayscale on the JVC RS40, but it's slow, as has already been talked about. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Reply
Reply
post #419 of 431
7/8/12 at 10:30am
I have just had my bulb replaced.
I have a 1.0 gain screen.
I will be using a DVE disc for the contrast brightness ect.
Can some one post their advance settings as a starting point, eg cinema, natural, hdmi enhanced ect.
Thanks

Also which is the latest firmware?
Reply
Reply
post #420 of 431
7/8/12 at 11:24am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by grayson View Post

I have just had my bulb replaced.
I have a 1.0 gain screen.
I will be using a DVE disc for the contrast brightness ect.
Can some one post their advance settings as a starting point, eg cinema, natural, hdmi enhanced ect.
Thanks
Also which is the latest firmware?

Correct settings for the "advanced setting" require a probe (e.g., colorimeter sensor), a PC equipped with calibration software and a test signal source (e.g., Blu-ray player and the AVS HD Calibration Disc). See post #1 in this thread for more info on these calibration tools. I have calibrated two different RS40 projectors and one of those with two different lamps. The calibration settings were different in all three cases. I can say that in all three cases when testing for grey scale and creating a custom color temperature set of adustments, when I set at 6500K as a starting point, I found the red level was too low with blue level being the highest and green between red and blue. This required lowering the gain for both the blue and green colors in order for the grey scale to track close to 6500K. You might try selecting Custom 1 color temp then selecting 6500K as the starting point then leave the red gain set to 0 (zero is the max. value) then reducing the green gain to perhaps -50 and the blue gain to -75. This will get you into the ballpark of what worked best with my RS40, but these settings may or may not improve the grey scale on your specific RS40. As for setting the offset adjustments (located in the same custom color temperature setting menu as the gain adjustments, these adjust the lower end of the grey scale (dark greys near black) and if you are satisified with the custom gain adjustments for the mid-greys up to white then you may want to display a grey scale test pattern and use the R, G and B offset adjustments to remove any color tint that is visible in the dark grey bars (e.g., the 10%, 20% and 30% level dark grey bars). Again when doing this by eyeball and without instruments you are limited as to how accurate you can get it.

As for gamma, there is no practical way to create a custom gamma curve that would be accurate without instruments and there seems to a lot of variation from projector to projector. However, you may want to try out the prestored curves (under custom gamma) for gamma values ot 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 etc. to see which one looks best to you.

The lastest firmware version for the RS40 is 1.5. It is available for download from JVC - HERE
Edited by Ron Jones - 7/8/12 at 11:45am
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › JVC RS40/X3 Calibration Thread