JVC RS40/X3 Calibration Thread - Page 15

Originally Posted by Ron Jones 


The lastest firmware version for the RS40 is 1.5. It is available for download from JVC - HERE

Originally Posted by BobearQSI 

Take a look at the first 3 posts of this thread. Post #3 especially will give you pre-calibration reference points.
To summarize the other discussions/suggestions throughout the thread:
Use Normal Mode, reset all other settings to default.
Set a custom gamma 0.2 points above what's desired (so for 2.2, start with 2.4)
Set black and white levels with a test Blu-ray disc such as DVE.
That's your base, then calibrate from there.

Originally Posted by curlyjive 

Have any of you RS40 owners tried cleaning the glass that the lamp directs its light through? It was posted here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1223098/please-post-experience-of-jvc-hd750-350-550-950-bulb-lifetime-lamp-brightness-drop

Not sure if it applies to newer models but these owners claimed dramatic improvements in brightness after cleaning a hazy film off of that glass.

Originally Posted by zombie10k 

My previous RS50 had a noticeable gassing film on the lens, but it didn't really affect the brightness even after I cleaned it.

Originally Posted by Fat Dave 

Something I've noticed in my tinkering with the RS40:


Some advice was given earlier in this thread about always going into the negatives when you adjust offset - that raising a value above zero will raise your black floor.


While this is true, using this technique created a problem for me. If you adjust offset by only using the negative values, you'll be in a position where you're either losing the last one or two black values (crush), or you'll have to increase your brightness, and the black floor will come up notably. The offset steps are much finer than the brightness steps (by maybe a factor of 10).


After calibrating, my offsets were red -12, green -8, blue 0. That crushed 17 and 18. In order to see 17, I needed to bump brightness to +1. That raised the black floor.


I started making adjustments one click at a time in offset and brightness, and found the values that gave me the darkest blacks and still allowed me to see value 17 was to set the green offset at zero (brightness also at zero), and adjust the other offsets around it. For me at least, this technique offered me the best black while still being able to see the 17 value.


I believe that advice was given elsewhere - either in this thread or in the Curt Palme thread, but at least for me I can say that this gave the best results. I didn't start there - I worked backwards from my original calibration, trying to maximize blacks and still see 17, and that's where I ended up. So at least in my experience, that technique seems valid.


One step in brightness seemed to represent roughly ten points in offset, though I didn't accurately measure that.


As always, ymmv, and please keep in mind that I'm VERY new to all this. It may be of some importance that I was adjusting one value (red) lower than green, and the other (blue) higher, so I guess I was raising the blue floor somewhat but maximized the black level of the other colours. If I was in a position where I had to adjust both other colours above green, my results may have been different.