JVC RS40/X3 Calibration Thread - Page 3

Is this just a straight shoot of the Natural mode or did you have to adjust color/tint controls to tighten it up? This looks a lot better than User 1 can obtain or even what I've measured with the Film mode.

No adjustments at all. I did change the color space from wide to normal though.

Interesting. I will have to shoot mine tonight in that mode and see how it looks. I am getting a Radiance Mini in tomorrow for even more fun!

Hi Ron,

Thanks for the response.

Here's a list of the available settings:

Resolution
Brightness
Contrast
Hue
Saturation
Picture Mode (Auto, Video & Film)
Edge Enhancement
Mosquito Noise Reduction
Random Noise Reduction
Block Noise Reduction
Gamma
Red Brightness
Red Contrast
Green Brightness
Green Contrast
Blue Brightness
Blue Contrast

The current Onkyo preamplifier, the PR-SC5508, has this ISF video calibration feature and HDMI 1.4. I might consider upgrading to it for some other enhanced features as well as switching 3D video sources.

Larry

Glad to have Lawyguy come by. He's a stand up individual

That graph was with the lens aperture set to -3 with 10 hours on the bulb.

I didn't get a lot of time on it today but hopefully tomorrow when my mount final comes, I'll get some proper time in.

I did take some measurements but I think an object near the pj skewed the results so I'm not going to post those.

I have done measurements for both Film and Normal (both set to Standard vice Wide) and neither are even close to the measurements I've seen from you and Tom (he did Film I believe). I am using Calman Pro with the latest FW and a PR650. It would seem that the units you both have used track MUCH closer to REC709 than the units I've seen (both RS40s and 50s), though the palette I am seeing on the 40 I have on hand is much better than most PJs I see with presets out of the box.

I just picked up my new X3 and noticed in the service menu that it has new firmware: 2010.12.14.2-O
I was under the impression that 1.2 is the latest one (which is the one you can download from JVC website). Does anyone know more about this?

Hi Lawguy. Did you change the sharpness and Detail Enhance control to 0? I think it is at 25 by default.

Did you notice any of the color flashing or fringing reported by others with the DFI modes?

Buttabean will have to let us know what those are set at. We did adjust them.

Yes to both.

Joe will chime in if he disagrees, but at the time, we both thought that: Color fringing is much less on mode 2 than on mode 1. Mode 2 is overall better than mode 1. Unfortunately, Mode 2 is dimmer than mode 1.

We spent a bit of time using the FPD benchmark disk and looking at motion on the girl in hammock pattern and the girl on a swing pattern. This is a 1080i disk.

With all CMD modes off, the RS40 is better than the RS20 because there is no longer much, if any, motion induced contouring. That is not to say it looked good. It was just better than the RS20. On mode 1, the red/green fringing was obvious, particularly on the girl's nose in the hammock clip. I have to say that even with the fringing, it looked tons better than with no CMD mode on. I don't know for sure because we did not watch much real material at the time, but I think I might accept the fringing as the price for better motion on sports. Mode 2 was better but not as bright. So, we have choices to make about which compromise is best. No perfect options, unfortunately. I don't care for frame interpolation at all and would not use it.

It takes time to cycle through each of the CMD modes. This makes a direct comparison difficult.

I am not sure that I would use DFI for 24p content. Flickering was pretty bad, but I think at that point we had focused on mode 2. Mode 1 might be better. I might try to sit through a whole movie with DFI and see if I get used to it.

One other calibration facts on Joe's unit. Unlike any other JVC that I have ever calibrated, when working on greyscale, the RS40's lamp had plenty of Red. Blue appeared to be the color that was most often deficient. This may be because of properties of the new lamp or it may change over time.

I'm seeing the same thing with mine. First PJ I've ever measured where there is an abundance of red and blue is the color that is lacking. I'm just over a 100 hours and getting the same thing.

My RS40 was closer out of the box than my RS50 is, I am guessing something isn't quite right with my bulb, my RED is down considerably since out of the box and now with about 60 hours. You don't need a meter to see it.

I had to pull down the blue and green to compensate. I am also concerned my meter isn't entire correct, it's the inexpensive Display LT and it could be off by a mile. I am considering sending it to Kal for a calibration or possibly considering the Chroma 5 Pro as a replacement.

I found out how poor my i1LT was when I rented an i1Pro recently: The 'perfect' i1Pro calibration (with deltaEs of less than 1.0) measured 7.0 or greater deltaEs with the i1LT. The only thing I found was that it was still good for measuring gamma (it measured pretty much the same as the i1Pro).

Yea, even inexpensive colorimeters measure luminance quite well.

I have the Same issues with my bulb!!! 40% off in only 200h! I also have to compensate with Blue & green and I measure this with i1pro!

My red is down compared the blue and green, but my max lumens output still measures 1100 after 165 hours. So I don't agree there is a correlation between red drop and a fault with the bulb.

Normally a UHP bulb drops red first. There seem to be some who are finding red holding up better than expected, but every bulb is different.

What is your lumen output calibrated but iris wide open?

To others, are you measuring your light output with a light meter to get the lux and converting that to lumens or are you using your colorimeter?

Calibrated, iris wide open, bulb high = 590 lumens
THX is 650 lumens

Here's the setting I found on this unit (per Tom's original config):

Contrast 12
Bright -7
Color 7
Tint 0
Color temp -> Custom 1
Gamma -> Custom 1

-> Custom 1:
Red -13
Green 0
Blue -7
Offset Red 2
Offset Green 0
Offset Blue -1

Lawguy - thanks for posting the CIE chart and measurements. Very interesting. There was some chatter elsewhere that the service menu in the RS40 can be used to tweak the colors somewhat (poor man's CMS). Anyone know if it can bring red closer to a dE of 5? I like the position its in currently (with your measurements) but would want to desaturate it just a bit more.

I did not play with the service menu controls.

I've been trying to dial in the picture on the rs40 for a while now and have not been happy. My last two projectors I was able to get the picture where I was happy with a mix of using the calibration disc in combination with others posted settings. I realize that not going to be accurate but I was able to get what I considered a good picture.
I've tried so many different combination's with the rs40 and either have too much black crush, raised black levels and/or clearly inaccurate colors.
For an amateur like myself should I try and buy calibration tools or just pay a calibrator to come in and dial it in after about 100 hours of burn in?
Thanks,
Frank

The X3 looks after turning in the first minutes has heavy green tint.
Within 10 minutes it is improving only slightly.
The Solution is to selecting a different preset, or a power cycle of the source. Now anything seems again to allow normal function. Even when you turn the originally(on start) selected preset is displayed correctly.
Overall, the Red has fallen sharply after 130h.
I had to recalibrate completely.
But the differences in the calibration are just peanuts compared this massive initial Green-Tint-Problem, which can only be turned off by switching the preset or, switch Off/on the source. Not very suitable for everyday use.
Could anybody has seen similar behavior? Does anyone have any idea which connected it?

What kind of adjustments are you making?

From the kinds of problems that you are describing, I would wager that you might have the wrong HDMI setting and/or brightness set improperly. Either of these will crush blacks. Download the AVS calibration disk. It is easy enough to use the basic test patterns to determine if these things are set properly.

For your color issue, use the Natural (standard, not wide) color preset. This seems to be closest to accurate. Also, resist the temptation to play with the RGB sliders in the greyscale controls. You will surely do more ham than good.

Keep everything else at its default. These things are close to accurate right out of the box,

Your heavy green tint issue solved by switching the preset or the source sounds like the wrong colorspace is selected. If your setting is on auto, try to cycle through the different colorspace options (YCbCr, RGB etc) until your picture looks correct.

I've messed with everything...I'll reset and use the AVS calibration disk with your suggestions to see if that improves anything.