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The Monkey_Man Home Theater Build - Page 2

post #31 of 75
I don't think you are supposed to run two 5 meter strands in series with each other due to voltage drop. Instead, you should run a length of wire to the beginning of the second run. If you get the controller with two outputs this is really easy. Just attach one strand directly to one output and splice a length of wire from the other output to the beginning of the second strand. Alternatively you could place the controller in the middle of the run and attach each strand directly to an output and then run them in opposite directions.

One power supply can power both strands through the two output controller. Just get one that can handle 6 amps like the one I linked.

As an aside, they also make controllers with up to five outputs to run five separate strands.
post #32 of 75
Thread Starter 
Hey thanks, its making sense to me now. I have my AC power feed at the start of the run so it makes sense to run a second feed line along the first LED strip to feed the second leg like you mentioned.. Man there are a lot of options out there. You either pay $500 for a kit that meets my needs or the extremely inexpensive kits like you linked above, oh the decisions...
post #33 of 75
I have been extremely happy with the cheaper strips. They were very easy to install, work great, and look awesome.

Unless you are trying to do some kind of complex automation setup, I don't see why the cheaper ones wouldn't work.
post #34 of 75
Thread Starter 
Drywall is all hung (thank god). First coat of mud is up! Not pictured is the second coat of mud is done. I'm waiting for the third coat. I'm paying to get the mudding done. Best $400 I have ever spent. They are doing an amazing job. In the mean time I'm planning the rear riser. My room is shy of 19 feet. What's the minimal depth I should build the rear riser for theater reclining seats. I don't want to push the front row too close to the screen which will be mounted on the wall.



Here is a shot of LED channel. I'll mount a piece of trim to hide the plywood and then I'll mount crown to that as many have done here.



post #35 of 75
Nice build!
post #36 of 75
Great build. Excellent shots of the framing. I know people make fun of excessive build shots, but for new DIYers like me the framing shots are invaluable.

Keep us updated!
post #37 of 75
Thread Starter 
Here is a nice dust precaution I picked up from DIY channel, a zipper you can mount on visqueen, I think I used 4 mil. A god send when sanding the mud.



I framed in the riser, I went with hungers because I was going to mount the buttkickers in the riser, but..... I changed my mind. I'm just going to mount the BK's in each chair. All well, I kinda want an active riser smile.gif You will notice the nemesis of my HT build, that damn red pole. All well (again), if I would have built my room to avoid the pole, I would have lost use able space in the basement.







The stage, how do you guys like my design, it might catch on around here wink.gif I used Google Sketchup to figure out the arc.









I'm turning and burning!
post #38 of 75
Looking good. Just looked at all the pictures. But dude.. the smurf tube. eek.gifeek.gifeek.gif Why??
post #39 of 75
Thread Starter 
LOL, yeah.. the theory was to be able to pull the wire if need be. However, never going to happen. 1/2" tube 12 gauge CL2 speaker cable, I had to use tons of conduit lube to pull. Not to mention all the turns the smurf tube makes. Think of the smurf tube as fancy speaker wire holders wink.gif
post #40 of 75
"Turning and burning..." Takes me back to my Navy days
post #41 of 75
Thread Starter 
I'm 1000 lbs of sand deep thus far in the stage. I'm estimating about 2500 total pounds needed. I tell you what, you will never have as much second thoughts in the entire build until you dump that first bag of sand in the stage. It's utter insanity. It's one thing to see it done on the forums, but its complete different when you commit to it in your own home.
post #42 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

I'm 1000 lbs of sand deep thus far in the stage. I'm estimating about 2500 total pounds needed. I tell you what, you will never have as much second thoughts in the entire build until you dump that first bag of sand in the stage. It's utter insanity. It's one thing to see it done on the forums, but its complete different when you commit to it in your own home.
I hear you. There have been many times throughout my build where I thought, "What the !#@$ am I doing?" But it is worth it in the end (and I'm no where near the end...rolleyes.gif)

Build is looking great! Cant' believe I haven't subscribed before today. Keep up the good work!
post #43 of 75
Thread Starter 
Sand is in the stage, 2600 lbs to be exact. That's 52 bags of play sand. I would love to say it was so much fun, it wasn't. Here are some pics of my suffering.





post #44 of 75
Thread Starter 
Some shots of the riser. I'll deck the stage this weekend.



post #45 of 75
Thread Starter 
For the rear riser I'll have a single seat to the right of the pole and a 4 seat arrangement to the left. The left side rear seating arrangement will have a center love seat. Front row will be 3 seats. I plan to go with the bullet model at the Theaterseatstore http://www.theaterseatstore.com/palliser-bullet-power
post #46 of 75
Thread Starter 
Painting the ceiling flat black isn't going well. I went to a local paint store that offers the Benjamin Moore line and they talked me into using a band of flat black that the retailer makes locally called protech. It's pretty darn flat, but pricey. So I bought 2 gallons. The issue is it dries so fast it's hard to roll the ceiling with my skills. The second coat covered well because I picked up the pace, but there was some odd roller patterns going on, not so much roll lines but roll patterns. I explained this to the paint guy so he recommended the BM extender they had there to slow drying time. I was concerned as its specifically formulated the BM Aura line. I used about 2oz in a gallon out of the 8 oz recommended. Now my third coat came out horrible. I'm using a lambs wool 1/2" nap roller. Finish looks like it wasn't back rolled. I kinda feel the extender was the issue as the second was almost acceptable. I rolled on grey tinted primer which went on perfect on the first coat so i know my technique is somewhat acceptable. It was a custom primer that the dealer offers so i know some of their paint is god. So I'm stuck. I need more paint but I don't think I should buy another gallon of the protech flat black paint. Should I switch to BM like I planned in the first place? However it wouldn't be factory tinted as they don't carry gallon containers of it. The other option is going to the Rosco Super Saturated Black Velour paint which others have used here, but it sounds like a pain to use since you need to cut it with at least 1/2:1 of water. So I guess I'm looking for a flat black that is "easier" to roll but performs as intended. Any recommendations on rollers or nap length? I picked up some purdy white dove 3/8 rollers. But I think 1/2 might be a better choice. My thinking was the lambs wool might be putting too much texture.
post #47 of 75
I just finished painting my screen wall and ceiling with Rossco's OFF BROADWAY BLACK.

The wall came out great, the ceiling does have some imperfections due to rolling, however I drew the line and said let's see how noticeable it really is. I spoke to Rossco prior to buying this paint, actually I was going to use their super saturated velour black, however their marketing director pointed me in the direction of the Off Broadway Black due to the application. It went on easy, 2 coats, except for a few roller marks on the ceiling which are totally not visible when the theater is in use, we love it!

$30/gallon.

Just my 2 cents.
post #48 of 75
Thread Starter 
Interesting! What was their rationale regarding the difference between the paints? What roller type and nap length did you use? I hear yeah on drawing the line at some point. I'm not a bad painter but this is my first ceiling and its way more challenging than a vertical surface.
post #49 of 75

I used Rosco super saturated black velour and love it.  Wouldn't want to change anything.  My ceiling is a black hole.  the corners literally disappear.  I used a sprayer, not a roller.

 

It is completely black with no reflections at all.  The only time it doesn't look completely black is when I take a 500 watt halogen work light and shine it directly on the ceiling from a few feet away - that gives it a bit of a gray look.  You obviously wouldn't be doing that while watching a movie.  Since you dilute it 1:1 with water, one gallon makes two.  Just make sure to mix it really well or it will be thicker towards the bottom.  I mixed a quart at a time to make it easier.

post #50 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

I used Rosco super saturated black velour and love it.  Wouldn't want to change anything.  My ceiling is a black hole.  the corners literally disappear.  I used a sprayer, not a roller.

It is completely black with no reflections at all.  The only time it doesn't look completely black is when I take a 500 watt halogen work light and shine it directly on the ceiling from a few feet away - that gives it a bit of a gray look.  You obviously wouldn't be doing that while watching a movie.  Since you dilute it 1:1 with water, one gallon makes two.  Just make sure to mix it really well or it will be thicker towards the bottom.  I mixed a quart at a time to make it easier.

So you mixed the recommended 1:1? There was a old thread where it seemed most people did .5:1. At this point spraying sounds like a good idea but I don't want to spend the money to hire it out. I love buying tools but a good sprayer is expensive. It seems that spraying is way to go though. My luck I would spray it and still mess the back roll.
post #51 of 75

Rosco says that it is a minimum of 1:1.  Others have tried to go with more paint/less water thinking it would have better coverage, but discovered it wasn't as "black".

 

You can find some great deals on sprayers.  I bought a fantastic reconditioned HVLP sprayer for $50.  They were out of the one I ordered (Graco Hv2900), so they sent me the next model up (HV3900). Here is one for $66, but you can find them for less:  

 

 

Graco Sprayer

 

 

I even used mine to spray all of my stain and clear in my theater.  The thing does a fantastic job.  I have used it several times now.  It has definitely paid for itself.

post #52 of 75
Looks like it's coming along nicely. I had to laugh when I read your posts about the sand. I remember the insanity of not only lugging 1500 lbs of sand down into the basement for my stage, but the fact the every single bag was sopping wet and I had to dump it all out on the floor and run a heater and a fan for a day and a half, while I went down there every few hours and raked it back and forth to dry it!! DOH!! Fun times!
post #53 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport View Post

Looks like it's coming along nicely. I had to laugh when I read your posts about the sand. I remember the insanity of not only lugging 1500 lbs of sand down into the basement for my stage, but the fact the every single bag was sopping wet and I had to dump it all out on the floor and run a heater and a fan for a day and a half, while I went down there every few hours and raked it back and forth to dry it!! DOH!! Fun times!

That just cheered me up smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Rosco says that it is a minimum of 1:1.  Others have tried to go with more paint/less water thinking it would have better coverage, but discovered it wasn't as "black".

You can find some great deals on sprayers.  I bought a fantastic reconditioned HVLP sprayer for $50.  They were out of the one I ordered (Graco Hv2900), so they sent me the next model up (HV3900). Here is one for $66, but you can find them for less:  


Graco Sprayer



I even used mine to spray all of my stain and clear in my theater.  The thing does a fantastic job.  I have used it several times now.  It has definitely paid for itself.

On man you got me thinking. I assume you back rolled after spraying?
post #54 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post


That just cheered me up smile.gif
On man you got me thinking. I assume you back rolled after spraying?

 

 

No rolling - just spraying.

post #55 of 75
When she told me that the Super Saturated was of the yogurt consistency and that the off Broadway black was like a typical paint, that is what sold me on it.

Now after hearing what NGiovas is saying........

My screen wall totally disappears, however the ceiling does have some reflection from the screen. I painted my walls with a very neutral mid-dark gray; Valspar "almost charcoal" which is very close to Munsel N5.0 Grey, neutral, in flat. It also has some reflection.

But back to the ceiling.................. I will be installing absorption panels on the ceiling at first reflection points and that will take up a good portion of the ceiling between the first row and the screen wall, so the black paint in that area is a mute point anyway.

Interesting hobby, our first dedicated Home Theater Room...........what a trip it has been!

Good Luck......
post #56 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post


No rolling - just spraying.

Did you end up with a lot of over-spray?
post #57 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

Interesting! What was their rationale regarding the difference between the paints? What roller type and nap length did you use? I hear yeah on drawing the line at some point. I'm not a bad painter but this is my first ceiling and its way more challenging than a vertical surface.

I used a 1/2" micro fiber that was recommend as a "great roller", it was not better that the typical roller. I used the 1/2", because I have a slight texture on the ceiling and walls.

I answered your other questions in the above post.
post #58 of 75
Thread Starter 
Update on painting the ceiling black. Like many people here it's hard for me to move on until I get something right. Man, painting the ceiling flat black was extremely difficult as a novice painter. I used the best roller covers and all the techniques I could absorb from online resources. After many...many...many unsuccessful attempts (different paints, techniques, roller covers, extenders, rollers...) to roll without leaving roller lines, I took NGiovas advice and picked up a HVLP sprayer. My problem with rolling is it looked nearly perfect with the down lights on, it was when I tested the up LED strip lights the ceiling looked like a disaster. I put far too much work in to let it look that way. Well... the spraying route as NGiovas recommended worked perfect but over-spray was a major issue. Even though the sprayer I picked up claimed to spray un-thinned latex (Wagner Flexio), I think the BM was too thick. Nothing a little sandpaper can't fix regarding the over-spray droplets. Spraying pretty much hide all my past work, almost. If you view the ceiling as you walk into the room, you can slightly see some faint lines, I mean really faint. However in the seated position of the theater, the ceiling looks perfect. So after 2 weeks and too much $$$and time spent, I'm moving on and I'm okay with it.

Here is my advice. If you are the average home owner like me that can paint for the most part, but aren't a professional painter, PAY someone to spray your ceiling or at the very least, have a professional roll it. After the time and money spent, I think it would have been cheaper for a pro to do it if you demand a perfect outcome.

For what it's worth I used Benjamin Moore flat black from the Regal Classic line. In my windowless room BM is black but it does have a slight sheen to it. I opted for BM because it was slightly washable. I have a low beam over the second row I and suspect a lot of people will touch it. Over wise I would recommend Rosco paints as others used here.
Edited by Monkey_Man - 5/27/13 at 12:28pm
post #59 of 75
Thanks for the heads up.
post #60 of 75
I've had the same issue with other projects and own a paint sprayer for that reason smile.gif

Some solid real works info and advice. Thanks for the share.
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