So, I finally managed to get around to re-organizing my living room the way I wanted to set it up.
Part of rearranging it meant moving my sub to a more optimal location. Due to the fact that it seems manufacturers hate Digital Coaxial connections, this means use of lots of toslink cables. I trusted my usual cable vendor for this, which is Blue Jeans Cable, and ordered up a pair of 15 foot toslink cables (might have been 16 feet, don't recall).
Now the problems have began.
What I'm experiencing is drop outs in sound, primarily in the LFE channel it seems. This occurs most frequently during heavy bass moments (I've been reproducing the issue using the part of Inception where they're sitting outside the cafe and random objects begin to explode).
At first I was worried that my sub was just dying, but fortunately it's not (although if this behavior continues, I'm worried all the sudden "pops" might kill it). Instead it seems as if the toslink connector, which is relatively loose inside the Blu-Ray player's (Panasonic DMP BD-60K) socket, it's actually shaking due to the bass, and consequently the signal isn't steady. This issue happens with both cables I bought, and wigging the connector in the socket instantly produces the issue regardless of the current sound output.
Now... I suppose I could ask BJC to send me a cable with a larger connector, but somehow I doubt they have Toslink connectors of varying sizes -> If they do, someone let me know ASAP please.
The other solution I came up with is simply buying a Toslink to Digital Coaxial converter for $10 and feeding a digital coax to the receiver in order to try to steady the connection. Of course, this would probably fail anyway due to the fact that the socket on the Blu-Ray player, and not the receiver, is the one that's loose.
Now... I have a backup Monster toslink cable that fits SNUGLY in the socket of the Blu-Ray player, so I know that there is obviously some variation in toslink connector size. In fact I should add that only one size of the toslink cable fits snugly. If I put the toslink connector on the opposite side of the cable into the socket, it wiggles all the same. Holding the connector to one side actually causes no sound to be produced at all.
I don't know what to do about this issue really...
I tried rigging something to hold the connector still, however, stronger vibrations still forced the drops to occur. Not to mention, it has to be held in a very specific manner to keep the drops from happening. Too far in one direction completely loses the sound, and too far in the opposite causes pops and crackles. Anybody got any ideas here?
Has anyone else had issues with loose toslink connections on the DMP-BD60K? I think it's still in warranty by a few days... I've thought about just getting it replaced, but if the connector sockets are all the same size... well.... still SOL =/ Not to mention it seems as if it's only under PARTS warranty and not labor warranty. Therefore, I'd still have to come out of pocket to get it fixed, which quite frankly I refuse to do...
Also, I'm wondering if perhaps since the cable has to be in one specific, perfect position to begin with... is the cable simply too long itself to carry the signal from the player? Even with the shorter cables I was getting the drops, but they seemed to be MUCH less frequent...
Part of rearranging it meant moving my sub to a more optimal location. Due to the fact that it seems manufacturers hate Digital Coaxial connections, this means use of lots of toslink cables. I trusted my usual cable vendor for this, which is Blue Jeans Cable, and ordered up a pair of 15 foot toslink cables (might have been 16 feet, don't recall).
Now the problems have began.
What I'm experiencing is drop outs in sound, primarily in the LFE channel it seems. This occurs most frequently during heavy bass moments (I've been reproducing the issue using the part of Inception where they're sitting outside the cafe and random objects begin to explode).
At first I was worried that my sub was just dying, but fortunately it's not (although if this behavior continues, I'm worried all the sudden "pops" might kill it). Instead it seems as if the toslink connector, which is relatively loose inside the Blu-Ray player's (Panasonic DMP BD-60K) socket, it's actually shaking due to the bass, and consequently the signal isn't steady. This issue happens with both cables I bought, and wigging the connector in the socket instantly produces the issue regardless of the current sound output.
Now... I suppose I could ask BJC to send me a cable with a larger connector, but somehow I doubt they have Toslink connectors of varying sizes -> If they do, someone let me know ASAP please.
The other solution I came up with is simply buying a Toslink to Digital Coaxial converter for $10 and feeding a digital coax to the receiver in order to try to steady the connection. Of course, this would probably fail anyway due to the fact that the socket on the Blu-Ray player, and not the receiver, is the one that's loose.
Now... I have a backup Monster toslink cable that fits SNUGLY in the socket of the Blu-Ray player, so I know that there is obviously some variation in toslink connector size. In fact I should add that only one size of the toslink cable fits snugly. If I put the toslink connector on the opposite side of the cable into the socket, it wiggles all the same. Holding the connector to one side actually causes no sound to be produced at all.
I don't know what to do about this issue really...
I tried rigging something to hold the connector still, however, stronger vibrations still forced the drops to occur. Not to mention, it has to be held in a very specific manner to keep the drops from happening. Too far in one direction completely loses the sound, and too far in the opposite causes pops and crackles. Anybody got any ideas here?
Has anyone else had issues with loose toslink connections on the DMP-BD60K? I think it's still in warranty by a few days... I've thought about just getting it replaced, but if the connector sockets are all the same size... well.... still SOL =/ Not to mention it seems as if it's only under PARTS warranty and not labor warranty. Therefore, I'd still have to come out of pocket to get it fixed, which quite frankly I refuse to do...
Also, I'm wondering if perhaps since the cable has to be in one specific, perfect position to begin with... is the cable simply too long itself to carry the signal from the player? Even with the shorter cables I was getting the drops, but they seemed to be MUCH less frequent...




















