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Problems with a older TV, new isn't always better. Try repairing it first!

post #1 of 46
Thread Starter 
When I say "older", I'm not referring to sets that are 15+ years old. I'm referring to models that are at least "HD Ready".

There is no 'easy' way to troubleshoot anything. The number one rule is "divide and conquer". Narrow down what/where the problem is. You don't have to have an electronics degree!
Below are posts with a wealth of information, but YOU have to spend some time looking through these if you want to save your device, whether it be a TV or anything else. I tried to group these to make the search easier. With many problems, you are not the only one that has experienced the issue.

In the past couple of years there has been a increased number of threads by members that are having a problem with their RPTV. Being the oldest of the three major current technologies, of course it's understandable. Sorry to burst your bubble, but mass produced consumer products do break, no matter how much you paid for them!

Many have little electronics experience with no idea what to do other than calling someone to take a look at the set. The problem with that is,
1. You pay a fee for the visit, even if nothing is or can be done,
2. Unless you know who you are dealing with, you take a chance that he is actually familiar with the set. No, I'm not kidding.

Judging by the owners one star reviews (posted in many sites), the last point is a problem with thousands of owners where the service visit consists of someone that has no or little idea what's wrong or isn't familiar with the product (even though he should be).
Most people do not take the time to find out in advance what choices (if any) they have for "authorized" service. When the time comes, they then find there is no "authorized" shop and the manufactures tries to come up with something, but usually fails according to the experiences posted. Read through the one star reviews from Amazon.com and see all the owners that wait for the service call, shops that don't return calls or return the visit at all.

Cutting costs by manufactures (some more than others) to a point of not having a service network except in major areas and/or not having a anything at all, but telling the customer to either deal with the store where you bought it or ship it back to them at your expense. Most of those are these 'oddball' names, or 'store brands' where you have no idea what/who actually made this thing. Those you wind up 'eating' and toss and never buy again. For the 'name' brands there might be a better way.

I did a series of "Whats' Inside" threads.
For those that have no idea what's involved inside a DLP RPTV, take a look here even if your set isn't from one of these manufactures.;




Remember, divide and conquer the problem.
post #2 of 46
Thread Starter 

1. With CRT type RPTV's, there are voltages over 50kv for the CRT's. No, they aren't "bulbs", but small picture tubes (usually 7") that produce the image. This is well past 'lethal'. If you aren't comfortable with this, just don't go there. Period! Newer designs (Plasmas & LCD's) still have higher voltages, but no where near those. 340v is common for DLP ballasts.

2. A Service Manual will not tell you what's wrong with the set. It will usually not give examples of problems unless they are well known issues. Just as a OBD tester for vehicles will not tell you what's wrong, a electronic service manual will just show you whats inside and what the settings, voltages & waveforms should be. This won't fix the set for you.

A. Obtain the Service Manual for your product right off the bat even if you have no idea what any of that is about. Why? You don't know when you might need it and even though you might not be the one trying to 'fix' the set, it will help someone that is. Stranger or friend. NO service facility will have manuals for every single TV out there. It isn't practical. Just searching for a Service Manual, 95% of the hits are for owner/user manuals which usually can be had from the manufactures web site.

B. Search a number of sites where you can get rebuilt replacements assemblies & circuit boards other than direct from the manufacture (if they would even sell them to you without an account).

Service menu codes (Yes, you can get into trouble here. Enter at your own risk);

Free Service Manuals:
http://fileshare.eshop.bg/index.php?what=search (one of the best)

http://www.free-service-manuals.com/...ion/index.html (register first)

Pay Service Manuals (usually under $20):

Replacements parts and assemblies;

http://www.parts-link.com/ (a site to help searching for parts)
http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/Search.aspx?m=19 (Boards & Light Engines)

Replacements lamps;


http://stores.ebay.com/DLPTVLAMPS (Click on General lamp info in the lower left corner)


Discrete components;
http://www.usbid.com/ (Hard to find components)

For the last group, there is always Radio Shack (but don't expect much, most will have to be ordered anyway) or your local electronics supplier (if you have one).

Additions & corrections are welcome.



Updated lamp links

Edited by videobruce - 11/28/12 at 6:48am
post #3 of 46
Thread Starter 
The 2nd reason for a manual is calibration and adjustments!
1. Procedures to enter the Service Menu to 'tweak' settings that have drifted over time, especially with CRT RPTV's, or just to 'fine tune' what the manufacture has set.
2. Needing to do a full factory reset, either within the Service menu or from a set of button presses either on the remote and/or the front panel to restore the set to a 'out of the box' condition to correct 'flaky' type issues.

It's wise to either write down all settings, or better yet take photos (multiple clear shots saving the best for further reference) since there is no way anyone could remember all of them in case mistakes are made. Again, the manual will not tell you how to calibrate the set except for possible basic settings. In fact, most adjustment points won't even be listed since it's assumed a ISF calibrator would be doing this.

But, be warned, you can easily get yourself into trouble if you push 'enter' or a right navigation button at the wrong time.
post #4 of 46
Thread Starter 

For those who are familiar with electronics, here are some links for various sets involving repairs and/or adjustments that are popular. I did not include "Owners" threads;


http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-mitsubishi-toshiba-4719-001997-dlp-chip-2.htm  (DLP chip replacement video)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1397016 (fan replacement)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1107926 (DMD board)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1216793 (Optical block)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1050735 (Color wheel)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1215572 (White dots)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...s#post19064778 (stuck mirror replacement)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1133223 (LED failure)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1094240 (Won't pwr. up)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1090383 (Hort. lines)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1212764 (Fan error)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1284859 (Doesn't pwr. up)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1257506 (Class action)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1188431 (Bright spot on screen)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=951807 (Not supported mode)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks; P series)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks Tweaks; P series)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=settings (Tweaks; S series)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=settings (Tweaks; LED driven series)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...44&postcount=3 (CCA indexing adjustment)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1376634 (Samsung LED driven DLP HLxxA750A1F PS upgrade)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...33&postcount=1 (firmware update for 3D sets)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=881668 (Green blinking light-caps)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1181213 (No power-CRT)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1176760 (Bad caps)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1257122 (Light Engine replacement)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1207870 (Bad HDMI audio)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=979952 (Error 34 lamp)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1180911 (Screen flicker)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1181213 (No power)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1071754 (Four blinking lights)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1186752 (Green haze)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=865360 (Optical block install)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1047205 (Pink spots)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1254481 (Lawsuit)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1086180 (Recall)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1204494 (Blue discoloration)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=settings (Tweaks)

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1216793/sony-optical-block-talk-and-repair-assitance (Optical block)

The biggest issue with DILA was chromatic aberration & convergence issues. Unlike DLP's, these along with the Sony version of LCoS uses three devices, not one;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=settings (Tweaks)

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1257270/hd-p70r1u-color-engine-melted (light engine melted)

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1255618/jvc-optical-block-science#post_18756836 (optical block)


http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-mitsubishi-toshiba-4719-001997-dlp-chip-2.htm  (DLP chip replacement video)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=834727 (Ballast)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1091831 (Blinking red light)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=611627 (Toshiba lamp failure)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=351829 (V500 issues)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=842581 (HDMI shift F59)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1037039 (Glare reduction F59)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=790702 (CRT RPTV Tweaks)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=settings (Tweaks)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=958640 (Ballast kit)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1157338 (Yellow tint)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=452174 (Tweaks)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922 (CRT thread)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1129474 (Philips-Hi voltage)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=690782 (Philips-changing coolant)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1010146 (CRT RPTV tweaking)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=901544 (CRT RPTV convergence fixes)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=968812 (RCA flashing light 10x)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=tweaks (Pioneer tweaks)

Light Engine rebuilding;

Lamp replacement (Mits was the example);

Lens cleaning (Mits was the example);


LCD Backilght testing;



added DLP chip replacement video links

Edited by videobruce - 1/12/13 at 6:07am
post #5 of 46
Thread Starter 

The following sites are for the somewhat advanced person who can do component level repair. These are NOT for the beginner;

A outside thread devoted to this same subject with the most complete source of information (other than here ) ;

A Forum devoted to DLP's;

This calbration forum has a wealth of 'repair' & troubleshooting information:

Ballast replacement (Sammy 'S' series example);


Samsung color wheel replacement;


List of "Repair" sites;
http://www.techlore.com/forums/70/Te...ectors/threads (excellent repair forum)

Specific 'convergence' repair;
http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.fili...ergenceFix.htm (Pioneer SD-643HD5)

For those with a problem that couldn't be resolved, try writing to the CEO and/or president of the company. It does work!;
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=593005 (posts #25 & 38)

BTW, I have concluded long after I posted this, that this "4x3 cropped" problem is common to most HDTV's. I find it hard to believe most can't/don't see it.



Added color wheel replacement.

Edited by videobruce - 10/21/12 at 9:31am
post #6 of 46
Thread Starter 
On a somewhat related subject, there was a rash of capacitor failures from the early & mid 2000's due to poor Taiwanese design, cost cutting and, believe it or not 'industrial espionage'. It was a widespread problem, not limited to TV's and computer motherboards.

An incorrect electrolyte formula within a faulty capacitor causes the production of hydrogen gas (confirmed by mass spectrometry), leading to bulging or deformation of the capacitor's case, and eventual venting of the electrolyte.......The capacitance may degrade to 4% of the original value, as opposed to an expected 50% capacity degradation over the lifetime.


Circa 2005 Dell spent some US $150 million replacing motherboards entirely and another $150 million on the logistics of determining whether a system is in need of replacement. HP reportedly purged its product line in 2004.

BTW, Dell & HP do not manufacture MB's. They just assemble ones made by OEM's.

Here is a link on the subject. Most of this made reference to computer MB's, but this affected TV's also.;
post #7 of 46
Thread Starter 
Anyone that has had experience with ballast replacement, please add some input here. There have been a increasing amount of threads regarding ballast replacement that I haven't addressed here (since I haven't needed to do so myself).

Repair related;

Owners threads;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ight=samsung+p (Sammy 'P' series)
post #8 of 46
Can anyone tell me where to get a service manual for the AKAI PTH5498 54" 1080i rear projection tv? I need to readjust the settings in the service menu such as VBO ect. Does anyone know what the proper factory parameter settings are from the geometric screen on this set? I need all the settings for the geometric.
post #9 of 46
Thread Starter 
The problem with 'no name' & 'oddball' name products is getting them serviced. In this case, even finding a service manual. For those reason, I avoid these like the plague.

I found their history interesting, though I saw no mention of, at one time I was under the impression Akai was owned, or connected with Sony;

In early 2003, the consumer electronics company began undergoing a re-exposure by marketing various rebranded video products manufactured by Samsung.

Which was taken from here;

You can try looking through these;
post #10 of 46
Thread Starter 
From another member;
Originally Posted by Frankg666 View Post

I was having problems with my Panasonic PT-50LC14, had a big yellow blotch in the screen.

The problem was the blue polarizer on one of the lens had burnt out. A member suggested to buy a small sheet of Vermillion 2x2 stock #AX27803 polarizer for $6.50 from anchoroptics. I called them, it seems they no longer sold the 2x2 and only sold the 8x11 Vermillion stock #AX27813 for $38.25.

All said and done it cost me $52.00 and it was well worth it. I tore into my projection tv and repaced it and it works better than the day it was bought.
If anyone has this problem and needs the Vermillion polarizer feel free to contact me. I can also answer any questions you need to ask on the replacement. Thanks AVS members, I could not have fixed my TV without your help

(email: elron18@hotmail.com)
post #11 of 46
I have a Toshiba 65" HDTV I bought on 2000 that the blue color convergence is shot. Called a TV repair service and they checked with Toshiba and said there was a $27 part that would fix it. Unfortunately that part was no longer available. Checked all over and indeed that part is unavailable. Now looking for a new HDTV.

Rick R
post #12 of 46
Originally Posted by Rick_R View Post

I have a Toshiba 65" HDTV I bought on 2000 that the blue color convergence is shot. Called a TV repair service and they checked with Toshiba and said there was a $27 part that would fix it. Unfortunately that part was no longer available. Checked all over and indeed that part is unavailable. Now looking for a new HDTV.

Rick R

You might want to visit the Don't Dump Your CRT thread, and post this issue there. There are people on the forum who might point you in the right direction regarding that convergence chip.
post #13 of 46

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post it but I'm gonna try.

I recently bought a Light Engine off of Amazon.com from a dealer for very very cheap (almost too cheap? $200), and replaced my current Light Engine. It was giving me the hundreds of black/white/flashing dots.

After replacement, though, the TV won't power on. I've checked all cables, they are connected, and the lamp goes in fine. I'm getting a steady flashing red light after it clicks, tries to turn on, but doesn't.

Is there a way to get an error code from this or did I get a bad light engine? The lamp was fine prior to replacing the light engine. Could it be that something isn't screwed to the unit correctly? The DVI cable connecting the TV to the light engine is in but not screwed in (for some reason one screw is not connecting.)

Thanks for any help. I'm trying to remain optimistic with this tv but I'm really considering throwing it out the window.

Is Mitsubishi still doing anything for these TVs even if they're out of warranty? Mine is about a year out of warranty.
post #14 of 46
Thread Starter 
1. Do you have the service manual?
2. You can't just 'swap' parts like swapping a PS or similar.

Data from the old 'engine' has to be copied to the new engine. I'm not familiar with the whole procedure since I never would consider doing it. Unless there is another member that has and can post, you have a real problem.
post #15 of 46
I have a 73" DLP tv from mitsubishi, with a damaged sceren (heavy scratches inside - don't know why!). I need a new sccreen - do you know where I could get a new front screen replacement?

I can upload pics if anyone wants to see them.

This is a c10 (Dell model), and I bought it refurbed from a warehouse. Picture is a little blurry too, but not bad. Looks great with 3dc1000 glasses / kit!

I just really need the screen to be fixed, it looks terrible!

I called mitsubishi, and they won't sell the part to me, they gave me the local # of a repair shop, who also wouldn't sell the part - but will fix it for $500!!! Wayyyy too much, I just want the part, I can take it apart myself and put the screen in, once I have the part.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
post #16 of 46
Thread Starter 
It would probably have to be purchased through a authorized shop.

Have you looked through the 'sticky' at the top of the page yet?
post #17 of 46
Yes, I looked through this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1310024 at the Mits section, and couldnt find anything on screen replacement. Is that the right place? I searched too, but couldn't find any info other than ask the repair shop, which wants $500 as I stated. I'd like to find out more about how / other ways to purchase or obtain it, at least for less $$$.
post #18 of 46
Thread Starter 
I don't know what this "C10" is through Dell. I didn't know Dell sells re-
branded Mits DLP's.
I don't know of any dedicated thread on screen replacement, but those off site site links might be where to look;
post #19 of 46
Thread Starter 
Here are page captures from the service manual for the 2007 xx732 series of DLP's:
post #20 of 46
Thread Starter 
There is also a thread on the more recent "white dots" problem which is nothing but stuck micromirrors;

post #21 of 46
hello, i thought i'd share my experience with fixing old rear pro sets...

i'm the second owner of my "lg 71sa1d-aa" set. i'm not great with electronics, but i do have a good understanding. i've had a few issues with the set, all of which i have fixed.

first of all, my set developed an arcing sound everytime i turned it on (some months after owning it.) while the set ran fine with no issues, i became curious... so one night i stood behind the rear cover and looked inside to see where this arcing sound was coming from. sure enough, it was coming from the lamp housing. it turned out the rubber sleeve that covers the wire from the ballast to the lamp was not entirely coverd. this meant the power coming from the ballast was jumping to the shortest point (which was the steel lamp housing.) simply pulling the rubber sleeve up entirely covering the wire fixed this arcing sound.

a few months later the set would randomly turn itself off and back on a few minutes later. i grew tired of this and decided to take off the rear cover and investigate. i found the wire from the power supply to the on/off switch was almost completely disconnected. simply pushing it back into place fixed this.

almost a year later the set would randomly turn itself off, but not back on again. having previously poked around i knew i was going in deep to find a fix this time. being optomistic and confident, i pulled out the entire projection housing and looked for burnt components. i spent a good 30 minutes looking and didnt find anything. being observant, the last time the set turned itself off, there was no lit up led's or internal fans turning. this gave me the impression the power supply was at fault. i followed everything from the wall socket to the power supply. i removed the power supply and saw some burnt solder underneath and decided i needed someone with more experience to go over the board to resolder anything that was damaged. i took it to my local tv repairer and asked if he could 'dry test' it for me. he wasnt as optomistic as i was about it being the fault of the set. it took a few days for him to go over it with a magnafying glass, but he found some bad/cracked solder around the high voltage mosfets etc. he resoldered them for me and was still certain the power supply was not at fault. cost me $30aud and some time to put everything back together. while i was at it i bought some anti-static cloths designed to collect dust. i went over everything including the three internal fans vacuuming/wiping dust off. i cleaned the very dusty lens with schwabs lens wipes. put everything back in and held my breath... over 30 hours viewing and not one sign of turning off!!

i cant describe how happy i am. the set cost me $900aud, $180aud for a new lamp and $30 to repair the power supply. overall the set has 4000 hours on it. i will do everything i can to keep this set running. i dont know what i'll do without it...

preventative maintenance from here on out. i'm sourcing replacement internal fans, replacing the bulb well before it's expected expiry date (i've read of lamps taking out ballasts), cleaning the dust filters every few months and powering down the set correctly (placing it on standby for 2 mintues and turning it off at the set and then the wall. this allows the fans to cool down the optics engine to prevent any burning of filters etc.)

having poked around i feel i can keep the set running for alot longer. it's a great technology (lcos) and definately dominates anything my mates are using, or whats available on the market today. i hope others are not giving in and trashing these sets for such a simple fix.

that's all for now. thanks for reading.

all the best,


post #22 of 46
Thread Starter 
Good writeup and welcome to the forums. I didn't know Goldstar sold LCoS sets, when did it come out?.
You are 'down under'?
post #23 of 46
hello, thanks for the kind words.

yes, i'm from australia... is goldstar some alternate name for lg? the set was released in 2005. apparently the makers of the xd lcos light engine 'spatialight' could not keep up with lg's demand. the company wasn't doing great financially before the contract with lg and went bust not long after. i read that lg dumped these sets in australia and there werent many made. the person i bought it from was given it from lg as a replacement for his 60" dlp rear pro that stopped working. i can't believe such a great set can be overlooked and not re-made. i guess people arent interested in the bulkyness that is rear projection.

i bought a minty cine 9 a few months before i bought this set and haven't watched it once to this date. i've been advised not to run the cine 9 over 100" diagonal. watching a 71" screen everyday, the sound of 100" doesn't tickle my fancy anymore. like i said earlier, i wont know what todo if i can't keep this set running.

thanks for reading,


post #24 of 46
Thread Starter 
Goldstar is their actual name that was changed 10+ years ago to mean "Lucky Goldstar" i.e.: LG.
i guess people arent interested in the bulkyness that is rear projection.
Yea, you can't hang it over a fireplace.
post #25 of 46
Thread Starter 
A member took the trouble to post his pic of what I assume is their 'green glob' problem. Correct me if that was a bad assumption;
Originally Posted by provideo View Post

I'm trying to save a keepsake gift I received several years ago from a loved one. I have a Sony WEGA KDF-E42A10 that has developed the classic "yellow circle" in the middle of the screen. I tore down the optic block and discovered a "blister" on the little filter in front of the BL image panel. I've attached a photo to this post.

Would anyone out there have one of these sitting around or know where I might find one? Any help would be greatly appreciated and would mean a lot to my family.
post #26 of 46
"rash of capacitor failures from the early & mid 2000's due to poor Taiwanese design"

Where does this bs come from? The Samsung DLP televisions use a Texas Instruments design and components that are manufactured in the USA and South Korea.

DLP was a transition technology bridging CRT and LED and as such it has its weak points in the use of a ultra high RPM color wheel and a badly designed and constructed light tunnel. Plasmas of the same era had even more problems though they have kept the AV repair shops in business.

Repairs if you do them yourself are going to cost $100 for the color wheel and $50 for a light tunnel. If you have a tech do it then add another $500. It may be worth considering replacing the set with a LCD TV as the 47" ones are selling for $700.
post #27 of 46
Thread Starter 

"rash of capacitor failures from the early & mid 2000's due to poor Taiwanese design"
Where does this bs come from?

From dozens of reports, threads & articles on the subject. It's a well know fact. Do your research first. Just because you never heard of it, doesn't mean it doesn't/didn't exist.
post #28 of 46
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

A member took the trouble to post his pic of what I assume is their 'green glob' problem. Correct me if that was a bad assumption;

That's funny because my Wega has the same problem. I figure it's time for an upgrade so I was doing some research here on what to buy and ran into this thread!!
post #29 of 46
hey bruce...

that picture you posted is what i fear will be the end of my lg set. something as small as an internal fan failure would cause this filter blob. also having the set too close to a wall would result in poor air circulation around the inside of the set. or simply not putting the tv into standby mode before powering down the set, which would turn the lamp housing fans off before extracting all the hot air from the lamp area.

on a side note, i sourced brand new replacement fans for my lg and theyre $50 (EACH!!) from a parts warehouse here in australia. these are your standard 80/120mm fans!! i simply cant find the same vol/amp fans around on the net though? anyone know of a good website or store? i refuse to pay this much, and continue to search...

may your tv set live forever
post #30 of 46
Thread Starter 
What voltage are the fans?
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