Samsung 3d dlp + 3dc-100s = 3d - Page 3

Milmanias is correct. That is an issue with most emitter glasses being used with DLP sets. It is the reason I chose DLP link glasses over emitter ones.

DLP link glasses have issues of their own however, as all of them except Crystal Eyes 5 by RealD can show rainbows. The Crystal Eyes 4 emitter glasses properly block the DLP link flash to give you blacks back but require different emitter. Ultraclear emitter glasses are compatible with Mits emitter.

I have the Viewsonics that have the reversible mode but they are heavy, bulky and very uncomfortable to me, and buzz louder than other brands. I also own the Ultraclear, CE5's, and Optoma DLP link glasses. Crystal Eyes glasses are by far the best but are much higher in cost. I've read you can buy an emitter inverter to get compatibility betweeen DLP link glasses and emitter ones.

Probably not the best thread for this but it is a direct follow-up to the last post...
which is worse: reddish blacks or rainbows?

Right now I am using DLP Link UC and the rainbows are annoying, but the blacks are black.I don't like how they don't sync well in the daytime. I am about to order IR glasses with an emitter.

One other problem with DLP link glasses - many people have reported under certain conditions they loose sync. See the specific threads on 3D glasses.

I want to know the answer to this question as well. If someone could please post their results and whether or not they can get full audio surround sound then that information would be greatly appreciated by many of us.

Sorry for the thread hijack. My last post here in this thread regarding glasses:

My CE5's hold link in all lighting conditions, my UC's can have trouble in bright light. Putting a little black masking tape over the upper portion of the link receptor fixes that issue for me.

The CE4's eliminate all problems and work with all 3D TV's. Major investment though at $175/pair and $300 for emitter for CE4's. Both CE4 & CE5 are rechargeable via usb.

Best of luck on the Lombardi Trophy but it ain't gonna happen for you. LOL

I just placed my order. Hopefully will be here next week.

Go STEELERS!!!!

Sorry if I'm just dense, but how do I do this? I have HDMI from PS3 to the Onkyo, then from the Onkyo to the adapter, then from the adapter to the TV. Then I have TOSLINK from the TV's audio out to the AVR's in. Doesn't that show that the 5.1 is getting through the entire chain? No?

I don't get exactly what you're wanting me to try. Sorry. Can you give me a specific hookup sequence or something?

Again, sorry for my stupidity.

I just have to say one more time, other than the weird red screen thing, I am LOVING this new 3D setup. I just don't understand all the 3D haters. Playing GT5 in 3D is a world apart from playing it in 2D. And the movies are SO much more immersive. Unless you have a glass eye or motion sickness, I can't begin to imagine why anyone WOULDN'T want this technology.

Anyway...

Don't consider my opinion to be definative answer, but if you are getting 5.1 back from the TV then I have to say you are correct. I think everyone else was taking the TOSLINK from the PS3. The next question I have, you can't answer. It looks like your receiver is 1.2 with 1.3 passthrough (IE based on the ONKYO manual your receiver doesn't pull the audio off of HDMI) What everyone is trying to find out is if they can put the 3da-1 before the receiver and still have the adapter checkerboard and pass audio.

Its worth testing to see if you can go PS3 -> 3da-1 -> receiver -> TV (with audio going TV -> receiver via TOSLINK) It won't be a smoking gun, but interesting to say the least if it works.

I'm trying to help with this, but as you can see from my post above, I'm not exactly sure what you want me to try. My PS3 runs straight to my receiver's HDMI in, then out the the converter, then out to the TV's HDMI in. My audio is coming out of my TV and back into the receiver via TOSLINK. So didn't the 5.1 signal make it through the receiver?

Again, I'd be happy to help if you'll tell me what I'm doing wrong. Thanks!

EDIT: Sorry. jmaster posted while I was writing. :-)

I'd say that's a fact, considering that when I cycle through the audio input options, there's OPT 1/2, COAX 1/2 and something that just has four hyphens, but there's not option for HDMI in the audio inputs.

I also have the Samsung 61A750 DLP set. I do plan on getting the Mits. converter when it's available at Best Buy. I have an Onkyo 1.3 HDMI receiver. I ordered the Samsung 7900 3D Blu Ray player. It has 2 HDMI outs: 1 Audio/Video out..2 just audio out. I believe you can get your surround this way by using an older receiver. I hope this works out when I finally get mine!

Question: If I buy one of the Panasonic checkerboard-native BD players (can you still buy them?) and run it directly to my TV, would that eliminate the red tint? I'm assuming yes.

EDIT: obviously just for movies. And I'm assuming if I plug that BD player into my other HDMI port on the receiver, it will then run through the Mits converter and give me the reds again, so I'd have to switch out the HDMI cable in the HDMI3 port if I wanted to game or watch a movie. Am I understanding all this?

EDIT AGAIN: Now I'm thinking, no, it wouldn't solve the problem, because I'd still have to go through the Mits converter to see the 3D, or could I just plug the emitter directly into the TV, or would that just bring the problem back?

I'm so confused.

My mitsubishi kit arrived this afternoon. Easy hookup with everything going through my Onkyo 608. Audio is fine. Demo disk is neat through my 61a750. Hardest part was figuring out how to make tv switch to 3d. It is done through the tools button on my remote.

Looked at directv 3d stuff briefly. Seemed to have a little ghosting but I have to fiddle a bit to see what is going on. My directv box found the 3d configuration without rebooting and turned on the menu items. No live espn 3d for a couple weeks so will have to wait on that.

Otherwise, I'm pleased with it so far.

Now if you just want to watch a regular Blu Ray you would shut off the 3D option on the converter?

Looks like when you turn off the tv or go to a non-3d source the tv resets to standard and the box just passes everything. Just leave the converter in normal mode.

Thanks...

Thats interesting. I was under the impression that the optical out on the Samsungs would only output 5.1 from over the air channels. I tried it on my PS3 and it does output Dolby Digital 5.1 from the HDMI input to the optical out. I wonder if it would pass lossless 7.1 too? I'll have check, I don't know if toslink will do lossless 7.1 or if it's limited to Dolby Digital/DTS.

I think the red blacks thing is a function of the Samsung's 3D mode, I don't think there's anything you can do to get rid of it short of using different glasses that block it out better.

No, as mentioned earlier, the red blacks are caused because the emitter glasses do not properly block the DLP link flash.

I am interested to hear results with 1.3 AVR as well. I was able to use TRU3D adapter (3DA-1+Gefen) before AVR with both PS3 and D* HD DVR as was able to pass 3D to TV fine.

Anyone been able to test the 3DC-100S upstream of an HDMI 1.3 A/V Receiver yet? Many of us want to know if it will pass full surround sound audio if it is placed between the 3D source (DirecTv, Blu-ray, etc.) and the HDMI 1.3 A/V Receiver.

The redish tint screen on the Samsung dlp is part of the 3D mode of the dlp tv. A Panasonic 3D Blue Ray Player will not help taking off the screen redish tint on the 3D mode.
I have for 3 years a Samsung "HL67A750 DLP LED TV", before the 3D Blue Ray Player and the 3d broadacast the 3d was possible for me via a computer with software an emiter and shuter glasses from http://www.i-glassesstore.com/dlp3d-bundl-adv.html. This program will convert any regular dvd onto 3d viewing. With the use of this Emiter and Glasses when viewing a movie the redish tint will not be there, but if you take the glasses off you still see the redish tint screen. Later on I use PlumB MOD for the Samsung EDID, I got the Mitsubishi 3da1 and using the (IO Display emiter and glasses) was able to see perfect 3D still have the redish tint screen, but not with the glasses on. Because I have a second HL67A750 DLP LED TV DLP in the basement room, I did purchase a full mitsubishi starter kit with
two glasses and a Panasonic 350 3D Blue Ray Player. I can see 3D with the "MIT EMITER AND MIT GLASSES", but you can still see in certain black scenes the redish tint with the Mit glasses on, when scenes are not dark the redish wil go away with the glasse on, but if you take glasses off the red screen remains. Mit glasses are confortables but does not get rid of the redish tint all the time. The IO Display System glasses are "Diferent and not as confortables" but to my taste offer the better sharper picture or could be that I got use to it.

I have a Sony HT-SS2000 HTIB receiver. Not sure what version of HDMI it's got but I'll check it out for you guys on Monday. I know it doesn't pass the audio onto the TV when using HDMI. Excuse my ignorance though, what difference does it make if you put the 3d adapter before or after the receiver?

I am thinking that this is good news. This is my reasoning. The 3DA-1 / Gefen HDMI Detective combo that I am using is limited to 2.0 audio through HDMI. I am using the EDID of a Mitsubishi 3D ready DLP that I cloned to the Gefen HDMI Detective. It is my understanding that the 3DC-100S is passing 5.1 audio to the HDMI input of the Samsung DLP that is then being converted to a 5.1 toslink signal that is being sent to an A/V Receiver. If that is the case then the EDID of the Samsung must not be limited to 2.0 like the Mitsubishi.

The Best Case Scenario is that the 3DC-100S does not have an EDID requirement and it can used with any equipment to output a 3D Checkerboard Signal. If this is the case then one could put the 3DC-100S upstream of an HDMI 1.3 A/V Receiver and it would pass the 3D Checkerboard Video and full surround audio without the need for a Gefen HDMI Detective.

The Middle of the Road Scenario is that you can pass 3D Checkerboard Video and full surround audio through an HDMI 1.3 A/V Receiver if you use a 3DC-100S and a Gefen HDMI Detective that is using the EDID of a Samsung DLP. Everything would be placed upstream of the A/V Receiver. The Samsung DLP accepts full surround audio so a Gefen HDMI Detective with the same EDID should as well.

Worst Case Scenario is that I am wrong about everything.

Does anybody have any thoughts regarding this? I am hoping we will be able to get actual confirmation regarding this shortly.

I also have a confession. I had no idea that my Samsung HDTV could convert the audio it received over HDMI to toslink. I have never used the toslink connection on my Samsung HDTV. The other question is whether or not the EDID of the Samsung can accept all audio codecs such as DTS-HD and Dolby TrueHD. However, so far the 3DC-100S sounds more promising than the limitations of the 3DA-1.

None of the Samsung 3D DLPs have anything more than 2.0 audio in the EDID.

Anything that relies on the EDID for the audio format is not going to get more than 2.0 from the Samsung. If the new adapter does work before the AVR then I think it will pass full surround, but I doubt Mits completely removed the EDID restrictions.

I tried getting my Samsung's toslink to pass 5.1 from the HDMI input but the only thing I could get it to work for was a game (COD Black Ops). I tried BDs and DVDs and they would only pass 2.0 for some reason, even when the audio was set to Dolby Digital 5.1 which is what COD was passing. When I had the PS3 set to output linear 5.1 or 7.1 the audio would come through the toslink but not all channels were coming through, and my AVR said it was PCM 2.0. From what I could tell it was only the front L/R channels, no center and no surround.

I think you're still going to need a gefen with a custom EDID not a stock Samsung EDID. Hopefully someone here will prove me wrong.

Anyone been able to read with MonInfo and post the 3dc-100s internal EDID???

I got my shipped email today with tracking number. Woohoo, should be here this week. Now I can game in 3D with my PS3 and XBox 360 and not just watch 3D movies on my BDT300 Panny player.

Slightly OT but has anyone had the issue of this causing remote interference for any of their equipment? I just happened to turn off my receiver(Onkyo TX-NR3008) and when it was turned back on the adapter did as well at it made my receiver remote almost completely useless. I would say hit "volume up" and it would just continue to go up until the volume was maxed. It would take a good 10 or so remote clicks to get it to adjust then the volume would just drop until the volume was 0. It was quicker to run over and manually turn it down. It did this for any click of the remote.

I've been here troubleshooting the receiver doing things like changing remote codes, batteries and nothing was working. I just happened to see the green power light on the adapter and on a hunch turned it off. Immediately after my remote started to work again. Has anyone seen this by chance?

Question to NerveBag and then a general comment:

NerveBag,

If you are running HDMI from your PS3 to your AVR, why then are you bringing toslink back from the TV for audio? Your AVR is already receiving audio from the PS3 over HDMI. Unless your AVR doesn't support HDMI audio, in which case just ignore me.

Also, if NerveBag's setup is working where the 3dc-100s is between the AVR and TV, then that should be a confirmation to all of us with non-1.4 AVR's. To me, the only thing I need to worry about is that if I put the 3dc-100s either upstream or downstream of the AVR, that the TV will still recognize 3D sources (PS3, 360, cable/dvr box) and I can get 3D on the TV. I run a Denon AVR-2809 which is not 1.4 but I run all my components into it through HDMI and then output one HDMI to the TV. The audio is going to the reciever through HDMI from the components. Seems like the best setup would be for the 3dc-100s to be between the AVR and TV and then all the different sources can put 3D on the TV.

Nope. Unfortunately, there's still the question of if it can go between Source and AVR. The 3dc-100s might still need to see the EDID of a compatible TV (now including Samsung), in which case we are screwed. It might only pass Dolby compressed (which is how NerveBag's TV can read and output it), and not 5.1 PCM/Lossless ; still screwed. Point is, WE HAVE NO IDEA until someone actually tries (waiting with baited breath)

Also, putting it between AVR and TV means you MUST have a 1.4 HDMI AVR, or you will get no 3D, since the Source won't output it unless there's a 1.4 first in line in the HDMI chain.

STUPID HDMI!!!!!!!!! HATE HATE