Pioneer LaserDisc / DVD thread - Page 18

The difference between TV speakers and even a low-end external set-up is HUGE. TV speakers are pretty much as LQ as you can get. You could probably get an old pre-HDMI receiver pretty cheap. Also, a lot of older receivers featured multi-channel analog inputs, so you can still get lossless surround sound from Blu-ray, even without HDMI.

Also, is this the Onkyo GX-5.1 you're talking about? I don't use Onkyo for many things and those speakers look rather small, but I am 100% positive it will beat any set of TV speakers.

Yes that is the one.

Just wondering but what is the best disc to use to calibrate a tv for LaserDisc? right now I am looking at a video essentials.

Video Essentials is the best and pretty much the standard. There's also A Video Standard, but you're not likely to get that.
Also, don't worry if the disc doesn't come with the booklet or blue filter. The calibration patterns are pretty straightforward, you're narrated through it and you can just use the blue filter from your Blu-ray or DVD calibration disc(s)

what if I do not have a blue filter from a DVD calibration disc? Would the blue from a pair of old 3D glases work? what else would work? This is the first format I have ever been serious enough to actually use a calibration disc. Also how do you select a language on bilingual movies. Hoping to get Tarzan as it is the last Disney movie made on Laserdisc, is a good movie, and I am a fan of Phil Collins.

Also are there any years of movies I should avoid. I remember hearing somewhere that the majority of discs were made with defects for a few years or something is this true. I was wondering because I recently bought a original 1983 copy of The secret of Nimh. Have not tried it yet, so I hope there is no problems. Thanks for the help.

EDIT: also how scratched up can one be before problems show. I noticed that the secret of nimh also had a few spots where their were some groups of light surface scratches like squiggle circles. The seller had the item listed as Very good.

Some manufacturers are worse than others, Sony discs are pretty bad rotters, for example. Some manufacturers' quality varied by year. Check the LaserDisc Database to see if your disc is a rotter or not.

Since LaserDisc has no error correction, any scratch, scruff, etc. can have an effect on video quality, but it depends on where it is and how deep, thick, long, etc. the cut is. Usually the marks would have to be pretty obvious on the disc before you'd see any major problems on screen.

The blue lens from anaglyph 3D glasses will not work. A blue filter will need to filter out the other colors, leaving you with just visible blue bars throughout the pattern.

Selecting a language on an LD is largely dependent on the release. I believe some releases store one language on analog left and another on analog right, but if the alternate language is on the digital track, just press the audio button.

THX sells a pair pretty cheap.
I'd recommend getting calibration discs for your other formats too, but I digress.

I have been thinking about it, though I do have DVD's I actually do not own a DVD player. Though I do own a Xbox 360 so never-mind on the last count. Thanks for the help.

With the blue filter what you are doing is balancing the TV so it is putting out equal amounts of Red and Green to go along with the blue. So really if you can get the white shades set to 6500K then the tint setting should just go to the middle unless your TV has special processing to boost colors to make it sell. Then just back off on the color setting so it is not so over-saturated.

The key is having the equipment to measure the 6500K for white at all brightness levels. Once you get that correct everything else falls into place. The reason I bought the Elite model of the Pioneer Plasma is for "PURE" mode. PURE mode is made for adjusting to 6500K for viewing.

Thanks, Do I need the filter for all the steps or just the color/tint. I noticed on the back of the disc case it says it adjusts Brightness, Contrast, color, tint, and sharpness. My tv setting say, Picture, Brightness, color, Hue, and sharpness. I am guessing that picture is the same as contrast and Hue is the same as tint. Correct?

You only need it for color and tint.
Yes, you are correct.

I have a factory sealed Laserdisc VE.

Just wondering how much?

EDIT: Also does anyone have the THX blue filter glasses for sale by any chance, THX wants like 18 dollars including shipping.

I have a factory-sealed Copland LaserDisc.

TLK

I wouldn't pay much for a factory-sealed LD these days. Who's to say if it has rot?

Your right-this is a FREE country. If I sell you a sealed LD and it's ROTTEN you send it back to me and I refund you ALL including the return S/H.
That should ERADICATE ALL your fears.
Thank you

This is not an appropriate thread to be selling discs. The forum has rules against that.

My set is too but aren't you forgetting the other reasons for owning the LDs? jaggy free video and sound that blows the DVD away.

Laserdisc boxsets - The artwork is so much nicer than Blu ray or dvd.

American

Japanese

Carpenter op laserdisc

I love Japanese release art! I've only got these releases from Japan:



Here are some of my not-so-common favorites:

my 1988/1989 PIONEER CLD-3030 suffered similarly.

i opened it up, managed to coax the disc tray to expel,
and immediately found my problem;

the LD pickup attaches to a nylon mounting that is tooled
to fit onto, and be driven back and forth along the length of,
a long, finely threaded brass shaft, driven by motor and toothed belt
at one end.

(this is VERY similar to the mechanism that
PIONEER had used for LD pickup movement on their first two series
of six-disc CD changers; PD-M6/-M60/-M70/-M90X)

- anyhow, somehow, in shipment, the nylon coupling on the pickup side
had gotten jarred to detachment from the mounting on the
brass shaft side, and, as a result, the player could not drive
the LD pickup, and the player's logic threw the unit
into an emergency lock-up mode that just endlessly blinked
the CD/CDV/LD indicators on the FL display,
and locked all controls, save for the mechanical POWER switch.

at any rate, i eventually discovered the problem, and, blessedly,
as nothing was at all damaged, just detached,
i fitted the nylon connector back together, powered up,
and the player immediately, dutifully searched for disc,
then returned it's laser to HOME position.

it's been a marvelous LD player, that has performed without flaw since.
in fact, just yesterday, i pulled it out, half-dismantled it,
and did a Re-Fit of sorts, using my large collection
of PIONEER-standard copper screws to replace many of the existing
ones, tightening them and giving a much more snug, secure fit all around,
and also added some dampening materials while i was at it.

now the player feels rock solid like a brick, controls are crisply responsive,
and and mechanics and operation are quieter;

Reinbo

Used to have the PAL THE THING then sold it when I brought a DVD player after looking at the film the DVD was clearer and same as the signature collection THX laserdisc.

Still have the NTSC Escape From New York I will not trade or sell this. The region 2 DVD is sound butchered with repositioning of some dialogue panning and missing sound effects.

Got Village of the Damed only on region 2 DVD same with Escape From L.A. They Live, Big Trouble In Little China and Halloweeen and the bluray Halloween yuck seen the screen capture of that butchered up on the framing. Also have Christine and STARMAN.

Its not that bad its rather good providing the camera doesn't get overexposed by the contrast coming off the flat screen, unlike some video cameras that can't handle it as well.

Is that ALIENS CAV laserdisc or the CLV THX laserdisc Dolby Stereo AC-3 version?

got some high-res DSLR photos here of the 1995 THX AC-3 edition
of TOP GUN, running on that quite healthy 3030 shown there up above.

looks pretty awful overall, in still photo,
on my low-mid-end SAMSUNG 40' LCD,
but is surprisingly watchable in motion, IMO. in fact, i just watched it
all the way through yesterday, the first time in many years;


http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-121.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-122.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-123.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-124.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-125.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-126.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-127.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-128.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...K-3-20-129.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-3-20-1210.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-3-20-1211.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-3-20-1212.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-3-20-1213.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-3-20-1214.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-3-20-1215.jpg

I guess I did see some EE on the few still pictures was the camera mounted on tripod or something anything stuck down in place with blu-tack so the camera is always in the same position.

I think the pictures where great better than what my Fujifilm A160 which only now and then manages to get a good picture close up to CRT or LCD projector or LCD flat screen? Sometimes without flash. Contrast level tends to a bit of snag to tackle.

So what digital camera was you using?

funny, i have the same problem, in REVERSE, with my CLD-3030.

it has no issues whatsoever with spinning LD,
but load a CD, and it'll recognize as "COMPACT DISC"
and spin up, but get stuck spinning and evidently attempting
to sync the disc up and PLAY.

((i know the player's LD pickup is very much active during the player's CD mode, because every time i've ever attempted to play a CD through the 3030, i've always heard the laser furiously at work,
obviously continually attempting to lock to the disc, and obviously failing,
until i give up and hit EJECT))


this is no biggie at all for me, as i have a dedicated high-end CD player
for my CD collection (1987/1990 PIONEER ELITE PD-91)
-i just figure that someone might know what's going down here,
and whether it is something i can fix myself,
absolving this fine LD player of it's one very minor (for me) malfunction...





NIKON D5000 (2009)














got mine as a kit at my local COSTCO WHOLESALE back in mid-2009 for a wee-bit under $1k;