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Bethesda Build - Page 2

post #31 of 587
It will look even better when Your order is parked next to it.
post #32 of 587
Thread Starter 
Big - tracking Ted's delivery now - should be here today

From UPS:
Laurel, MD, United States 03/03/2011 5:43 A.M. Out For Delivery
post #33 of 587
Nice. That is impressive.
post #34 of 587
should be a fun thread to follow
post #35 of 587
Thread Starter 

Drywall, green glue, clips, applicator - waiting in the HT room to get started

Ceremonious first cut

Goal here is to apply 2 layers of gg/dw to the subfloor above. One thing i've discovered is that the joists seem to have space between them anywhere from 14" wide to up to 15.25" wide - crazy

After trying to custom cut about 2 rows perfectly for the joists - i've just given up on that (mass is the most impt thing on this layer anyway as far as i know)

in the interest of time and my sanity, i've decided to stick with 4' drywall strips of about 14 1/8" and then i'll stagger and caulk as necc to create a good sound barrier
post #36 of 587
Originally Posted by jesto View Post

Ceremonious first cut

... sniff... I get weepy at these occasions
post #37 of 587
Thread Starter 
Last weekend we made some significant progress.

I've been fortunate to have the help, guidance, and mentorship of the masterful Mr. BigMouthinDC.

Last week I believe we came up with good plans for wiring and HVAC - and we were able to get the majority of the Romex run for the room including
  1. 2 15amp supply lines to the primary lighting switch location
  2. Wiring in place for all major lighting zones (Room, Stage, Riser, Specialty)
  3. 1 20amp supply line in place for the subs
  4. 1 15 amp supply line for projector

Everything on the wiring front is running to the location of the future sub-panel which should be getting put in this weekend.

Here are some pics of the wiring (I know, not too sexy, but i do like the cobra like line we ran for the projector)

Also completed during the week: the framing for the room is now complete with the double stud wall for the left side now framed with the door opening and the rear staggered stud wall completed

This weekend/week I hope to
  1. At least get started on the gg/dw/gg/dw dampening on the subfloor above
  2. Install the whisperclips on all four walls
  3. Get the sub-panel installed

I'm really dreading doing the ceiling work - just seems like its going to be a huge pain and I've even questioned how effective it will be - I think thats just me being intimidated though.

I was hoping to have all the 14" drywall panels ready by tomorrow, but 14x20 feet of ceiling x2 layers all in 14" strips just wasn't going to happen. In fact I got next to nothing done w/ work and the whole family catching a nasty cold.

here's the start

Feeling better today - so hopefully will have a good base to work from starting tomorrow afternoon
post #38 of 587
-"I've been fortunate to have the help, guidance, and mentorship of the masterful Mr. BigMouthinDC."

Lucky you, that would be great help to have.
post #39 of 587
Thread Starter 
Made some progress yesterday - once again with the masterful guidance and assistance of Mr. Big

Here's what we got done:
  1. Cut all of the 14" drywall to go under the ceiling joists (100+)
  2. Installed 4 rows of the first layer of GG/DW
  3. Added a 6" junction for HVAC Supply Line #2
  4. Ran the HVAC return line to the utility room
  5. Cleared out all the nails in the ceiling
  6. Figured out the hopefully final plan for the sub-panel
  7. Snaked the line to bring in the Cat6 for the control panel and run the front of house security cam through the HT
  8. Drew first blood

About 1/2 of the 14" boards - of course, once we started installing we realized that ALL of the joists are spaced differently, about 1/2 of the rows were too narrow for even the 14" drywall we cut - so - we'll have to trim a bunch down some more

Here is Mr. Big installing the first board - I actually found the green glue easy to work with - hardest part was just figuring out how much to put on each board (figured about 1/6th of a load for each one - consistently applying that is a different story)

First blood - just a dinky cut from a nail that we missed in the ceiling - i'll post a pic when i draw real blood (which i'm sure i will based on my construction skills)

Short term next Steps:
  1. Hoping to have my contractor bring over a few guys this week so we can be done with the ceiling already - we figured about 1/2 hr per row x 14 rows which makes for slow going on some pretty tedious work
  2. staple down all the wiring and run the lines for all the lights
  3. install insulation
  4. install whisperclips and furring
  5. run the wiring to the new sub-panel this weekend
  6. double check everything before drywall gets installed
post #40 of 587
Originally Posted by jesto View Post

Here is Mr. Big installing the first board -

Somehow I thought I had more hair.
post #41 of 587
re: First Blood

I was just at my Doctor's and while I was there the Doctor asked me if I wanted to renew my tetanus shot. I figured it was a good idea given the work ahead of me in the basement
post #42 of 587
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Somehow I thought I had more hair.

Optical illusion I'm sure. Has to be something wrong with the camera.
post #43 of 587
You know....I think I live in the wrong part of the country. You guys in the NOVA area really have something special. You all help each other with your vast knowledge and experience.
post #44 of 587

Cleared out all the nails in the ceiling

How long did THAT take? And what did you use to cut them? Besides your finger, I mean.
post #45 of 587
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Somehow I thought I had more hair.

I blame my seemingly large bald spot on the bright flash in pictures. Bright lght is a cruel mistress.

Great build thread, BTW. Thanks for the effort!
post #46 of 587
I may have missed this, but why did you decide to put the drywall on the bottom of the subfloor? Are you planning to use the resilient channel on the joists with DD+GG as well or just single drywall?

I don't recall seeing anyone add the extra drywall like this, but it certainly looks like it should improve sound isolation to the room above. Just wondering where you got the idea.

Oh, and subscribed
post #47 of 587

A little article on ceilings. You'll see the drywall method described there for some additional clarification.

Adding damped mass to either side of a partition is a great idea. For a few reasons. Helps damp footfall noise also.
post #48 of 587
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

How long did THAT take? And what did you use to cut them? Besides your finger, I mean.

Actually the metal cutting blade for my multi-tool (that you saw me buy) worked for the first joist bay. By the second bay it was already getting dull, so I switched to the brute force smashing them flat with a hammer approach and that took about 3 hours while Jesto was cutting the drywall strips.

As a mental note to all those who want to follow this approach to reduce the footfall noise from hardwood floors above. Check your joist spacing and straightness. Jesto and I discovered that what looks like fairly straight and orderly joists is often far from even. In this case there is at least one joist that bends to one side about an inch in the middle of the span compared to the ends. So when you measure the joist spacing at the ends and start laying in the boards it doesn't take long to reach the awshit point.
post #49 of 587

so I switched to the brute force smashing them flat with a hammer approach

I seem to remember during our little jaunt mentioning that would have been my first approach.

But nobody listens to me. Or tells me anything. And it's always my fault. And there was a hole in my glove. And the sun was in my eyes.
post #50 of 587
Thread Starter 
J_P_A - we're doing the dampening as well as insulation and the furring channel and gg/dd approach - the house is all hardwood with big spaces so noise really travels far.

Since i'd like to only build this room once - i figured it was a good idea to make it as soundproofed as possible
post #51 of 587
Great work here. I need to think about doing that to my ceiling. I have tile floors on the entire first floor so I think the sound will just take off. You've also convinced me to do clips on the ceiling.

And get a keyboard for my iPad so I can participate more around here. The wife will never turn over the laptop!
post #52 of 587
Thread Starter 
Randy - not sure about tiles, but i can't imagine they're much better than hardwood in an empty room

The link that Ted posted is what inspired me to go with this solution - that, and hearing our baby crying from across the house on the 2nd floor while in the theater room convinced me that i should go with the most aggressive soundproofing option for my future sanctuary.

I'll let you guys know if there's an audible difference in an open room with just the dampening in place. There should be for all the time and $ we're putting into dampening that floor
post #53 of 587
I look forward to hearing what the difference is. I can hear the baby crying 2 floors up. I think the ductwork is the biggest culprit. I'm planning to put the duct wrap around everything I can get at. Especially the one that goes above the front wall of the theater straight up 2 floors to my 2 year olds room. I'm hoping to be able to watch movies as a decent volume even when they are sleeping.

And this keyboard with the iPad was a killer idea!
post #54 of 587
Thread Starter 
Randy - glad the ipad keyboard is working out - ipads are in the plan here - but not until the theater is done and i've got the home automation set up (then i'll actually be "saving" money by using ipads instead of touch panels

for the ductwork - we actually decided to rip the room supply duct out, and use flexiduct for anything going into or out of the room (including an additional supply and a return)

some people use the flexiduct and put lots of turns into it as well to help with absorption - basically - its a fabric tube in an insulated sleeve - as the air/sound travels through the tube, the sound gets absorbed through the fabric into the insulation

i'm definitely not an expert - but at least thats my understanding and i'm sticking to it
post #55 of 587
Keep in mind that flex duct by itself has virtually no mass, so sound will pass through the duct walls easily. Flex duct itself is not a sound isolation product. It needs to be part of a muffler to actually isolate sound
post #56 of 587
The plan for this build is to use Flex duct to connect from the main trunks to the room. Once inside the room to use the Soffit to build mufflers with the 6 inch acoustically transparent fabric duct (from Ted's shop). The soffit will be built inside the decoupled drywall ceiling and walls.
post #57 of 587
Sounds spiffy!
post #58 of 587
What length fasteners did you guys use for the drywall between the joists? I definitely want to do that, but I fear my ceramic tile won't be very forgiving to the points of screws poking into them. I'm guessing the sub floor is 1/2" and there may be something under the tile, so 1" screws into 5/8" drywall would give me good engagement while not endangering the tiles (and subsequently the WAF.)

I measured a few joists last night. Mine vary from 12 to 15", but I have singles, double joists, and even some laminated beams at either end of the stairs. There will be a few bays I won't be able to get at.

Have you gotten the rest of your strips installed? I'm getting ready to call Ted and order some GG among other sound proofing goodies for my project.
post #59 of 587
1 1/4 for the first layer of drywall, check back after Friday for the verdict of what works best on the second layer. Randy, a single 1/2 inch sub-floor under tile would not be considered acceptable building practice for a stable base. I suspect it is at least 3/4 + whatever else they put under the tile. If you have any floor vents in the house you can lift out the vent cover and you should be able to see the edges of the sub-floor and check the dimensions.
post #60 of 587
General question: Would it be smart for people attaching drywall to the bottom of the subfloor to use green (mold resistant) drywall? I ask because I would worry about spilling any kind of liquid upstairs which might result in some mold issues.
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