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Official OPPO BDP-95 Owner's Thread - Page 205

post #6121 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by USAFChief View Post

I've got the ER-4s and love them...you just have to wear them properly (fully inserted into the ear canal) to get the full bass. I had to purchase the small bud tips to wear them comfortably and to get them all the way in, but once you find the sweet spot, they're terrific. I usually use some Dennon D-2000 at home and ER-4s for the I-Pod, but they sound great hooked up to the 95/HP amp.

Thanks for the tips, I like EarBuds better, partly because full size headphone usually press against my eyeglass frame, which can be uncomfortable after a hour of listening. Not sure if I should get the ER4s or ER4p as "p" is more efficient, for 95+HP passive box, but "s" is more accurate.
post #6122 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutron77 View Post

I think that's 105 dB/mW which translates into 123 dB (1Vrms) for 16 ohms which as with most compact earbuds these days is really high. If you used the 1kohm voltage divider as in the diagram, you are getting about 92 dB SPL volume (for full volume content from the OPPO). You can up the listening level to 98 dB SPL by replacing the 1kohm resistor with 500 ohms (useful for material recorded at lower levels). If you audition really great headphones (you will be amazed at the difference), bring your box and OPPO along with your favorite CD/SACD/DVD-A and see how great the OPPO sounds directly into phones (with adapter circut).
I will be adding a simple conversion script (sensitivity to efficiency etc.) in that web page shortly.
Here's another adapter box, this one with 1/4 stereo jack for the phones:

Here is my box :http://dl.dropbox.com/u/29999148/headphone-box.JPG, I do have a great HP system - Stax SRX-III + SRA-12s, but it needs a tune up, as I did not use it much lately, so the contact needs to be clean. I also want to try some top quality earbuds such as ER4S, 106 dB @ 1mW - 100 Ohm, what SPL can I get with your HP box ?
post #6123 of 11017
Quote:


anyone here made their player region free yet.

Yes, and it works fine.

============================================================ =====

Bazinga!
http://www.sa-cd.net/library/7548
post #6124 of 11017
Hey all.

So have had my BDP-95 for about a week or, two, and love it to peices ! I use it mainly to play SACD's, but also use it for blu-ray, and streaming video.

I do seem to be getting hdmi handshake issues though.

If i turn my tv, then turn on the player, THEN switch inputs, i get that "lovely" reddish, pink screen. I don't have any auto's in the HDMI setup, and the colourspace is set to YCbCr 4:4:4, and DeepColour is set to 36bit.
I find i need to turn off the player, then turn it on again while on the same input. Then everything is fine.

I tried changing the colour space, deep colour depth, and even the resolution, but the only fix was the restart the player.

My plasma tv is the Australian version of the Samsing FPT5084, and I'm using the HDMI 1 output (haven't checked if HDMI 2 has the same issue).

Sorry to spam, but you lot seem a knowledgable bunch( ), figured I'd use this place as my first point of call
post #6125 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm120525 View Post

Here is my box :http://dl.dropbox.com/u/29999148/headphone-box.JPG, I do have a great HP system - Stax SRX-III + SRA-12s, but it needs a tune up, as I did not use it much lately, so the contact needs to be clean. I also want to try some top quality earbuds such as ER4S, 106 dB @ 1mW - 100 Ohm, what SPL can I get with your HP box ?

hmm, the specs I see for the ER4s shows 100 dB/mW (the ER4p are 106 dB/mw). With the circuit components, you would get ~ 91 dB SPL for max. volume from the OPPO players. With R1 = 500 ohm (instead of 1 kohm), which is about the minimum value of R1 you should use, you would get 96 dB SPL listening level. (The efficiency/sensitivity conversion script is now added at the bottom of the web page.

The calculator also allows you to change the R1/R2 resistor divider values and displays the voltage and power dissipated at the headphones.
post #6126 of 11017
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordvader View Post

If i turn my tv, then turn on the player, THEN switch inputs, i get that "lovely" reddish, pink screen. I don't have any auto's in the HDMI setup, and the colourspace is set to YCbCr 4:4:4, and DeepColour is set to 36bit.
I find i need to turn off the player, then turn it on again while on the same input. Then everything is fine.

This sounds like the display is locking onto PC RGB and not changing to the desired Color Space as set by the player. There are many reports about this, ranging from Panasonic plasmas to JVC projectors, but unfortunately OPPO has not been able to replicate these issues in house, so they have not been able to address the errors through firmware.
post #6127 of 11017
You might try setting the player to output RGB Video Level instead of YCbCr 4:4:4. If you see no quality difference then that's a simple workaround which may keep your display happier as regards the HDMI handshake.

Also, if the problem goes away when you set the player to 1080i (not 1080p) with Deep Color OFF, then that suggests a bandwidth problem which can often be fixed by upgrading your HDMI cables. If you have an AVR in the middle, then the HDMI cables on either side if it could be the culprit.
--Bob
post #6128 of 11017
Thanks for that !

I'll try the RGB option later in the week (may be away from the player for a few days ).

Otherwise, great player ! Am loving SACDs. So much cheaper than vinyl
... well, some of them :P
post #6129 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

You might try setting the player to output RGB Video Level instead of YCbCr 4:4:4. If you see no quality difference then that's a simple workaround which may keep your display happier as regards the HDMI handshake.

Also, if the problem goes away when you set the player to 1080i (not 1080p) with Deep Color OFF, then that suggests a bandwidth problem which can often be fixed by upgrading your HDMI cables. If you have an AVR in the middle, then the HDMI cables on either side if it could be the culprit.
--Bob

Bob, this begs a further question - do you recommend leaving Deep Color On in most cases? I have the Oppo95 connected to the D2V and then to the new Elite TV from Sharp (with Pioneer technology in it). I have the requisite 1.4A high speed cables as well. Always wondered how to tell the right Color Space settings as well. I leave the D2 on Auto now, and it seems to look great, but not sure what it is "negotiating" by being on Auto for most things.

Thanks,
Brian
post #6130 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManWithAPlan View Post


Bob, this begs a further question - do you recommend leaving Deep Color On in most cases? I have the Oppo95 connected to the D2V and then to the new Elite TV from Sharp (with Pioneer technology in it). I have the requisite 1.4A high speed cables as well. Always wondered how to tell the right Color Space settings as well. I leave the D2 on Auto now, and it seems to look great, but not sure what it is "negotiating" by being on Auto for most things.

Thanks,
Brian

You have to check to see what looks best with your combo (the display also matters). I recommend picking an explicit choice for Color Space. The OUTPUT settings of the D2v should also be set explicitly. Note that it's OK for the input and output of the D2v to be different if that looks better.

If you search the 93 thread for a post by me citing "Ratatouille", you'll find one possible way to check for the best fit of Deep Color and Color Space combos.

All the basic video levels have to be adjusted properly first (usually done using ONLY the controls in your TV). Recheck that those settings still hold if you change Deep Color or Color Space (they should, but check). Use a calibration disc like Spears & Munsil for this.

ETA: Avoid using RGB PC Level output unless that's the only thing that works. That's for displays intended for use as computer monitors instead of home theater devices. So you've got 3 Color Space choices and the set of Deep Color Choices for each.

Just to give you an idea how much fun this can be, in MY setup, YCbCr 4:4:4 works best for HDMI 1 video, and RGB Video Level works best for HDMI 2 video. Go figur....

With my Display, Deep Color OFF (Dithered) works best on HDMI 1, and Deep Color OFF on HDMI 2.

For most people with newer displays, I'd expect Deep Color 36 Bit to be the more likely choice, at least on HDMI 1 when not using Source Direct.
--Bob
post #6131 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutron77 View Post

hmm, the specs I see for the ER4s shows 100 dB/mW (the ER4p are 106 dB/mw). With the circuit components, you would get ~ 91 dB SPL for max. volume from the OPPO players. With R1 = 500 ohm (instead of 1 kohm), which is about the minimum value of R1 you should use, you would get 96 dB SPL listening level. (The efficiency/sensitivity conversion script is now added at the bottom of the web page.

The calculator also allows you to change the R1/R2 resistor divider values and displays the voltage and power dissipated at the headphones.

Thanks again for your expert advice, you are also correct on 100db/mW for ER4s, wondering if we can take advantage of the higher XLR output (4.2Vrms vs 2.1) to get more volume for the less efficient HP - for those people who uses RCA to connect 95 to their pre-amp for various reasons, currently, I am using XLR to RCA adaptors for your HP box (XLR 1 & 3 to ground, XLR 2 to hot).
post #6132 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm120525 View Post

Thanks again for your expert advice, you are also correct on 100db/mW for ER4s, wondering if we can take advantage of the higher XLR output (4.2Vrms vs 2.1) to get more volume for the less efficient HP - for those people who uses RCA to connect 95 to their pre-amp for various reasons, currently, I am using XLR to RCA adaptors for your HP box (XLR 1 & 3 to ground, XLR 2 to hot).

To take advangate of the 4.2V differential swing for headphone usage, you'd probably need to add a differential input opamp box, with one amp for each of the 2 XLR outputs (what active headphone amps with XLR inputs do). Apart from using small transformers (deteriorates audio characteristics), I don't think you can do this with a passive network with typical headphone wiring. The 95 LME49724 opamp driver for the XLR outputs is a very impressive chip(can source up to 80 mA and has a very low thermal resistance) but I haven't done any measurements or tests on the XLR outputs.
post #6133 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraton View Post

Yes, and it works fine.

============================================================ =====

Bazinga!
http://www.sa-cd.net/library/7548

OK would let me where you got the mod at or pm me.



http://peteswrite.blogspot.com/2010/...e-edition.html

at the bottom it tells does this work for the 93/95 editions as well.
post #6134 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutron77 View Post

To take advangate of the 4.2V differential swing for headphone usage, you'd probably need to add a differential input opamp box, with one amp for each of the 2 XLR outputs (what active headphone amps with XLR inputs do). Apart from using small transformers (deteriorates audio characteristics), I don't think you can do this with a passive network with typical headphone wiring. The 95 LME49724 opamp driver for the XLR outputs is a very impressive chip(can source up to 80 mA and has a very low thermal resistance) but I haven't done any measurements or tests on the XLR outputs.

Please do not waste your time to test XLR output, I think I will go with ER4s with R1=500 Ohm, to get up to 96db SPL, which is loud enough for me, assuming R1/500 Ohm will not degrade the sound, which otherwise defect the purpose.
BTW, My wish list for the next 95 firmware upgrade is to have finer volume increments on the remote, as well as a bigger "Home" button - next to the power button would be nice.
post #6135 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm120525 View Post

Please do not waste your time to test XLR output, I think I will go with ER4s with R1=500 Ohm, to get up to 96db SPL, which is loud enough for me, assuming R1/500 Ohm will not degrade the sound, which otherwise defect the purpose.
BTW, My wish list for the next 95 firmware upgrade is to have finer volume increments on the remote, as well as a bigger "Home" button - next to the power button would be nice.

The XLR outputs, terminated single-sided as you have them, should be at least as good as the RCA outs. In fact, you could use BOTH the + and - sides of the XLR pins to single-sided outputs to drive two identical headsets simultaneously (they would be phase-reversed of course) .. with outstanding performance. 500 ohm (with 150 ohm for R2) should be fine with your ER4s. It is amazing that the phones dissipat. only 0.40 mW to get 96 dBSPL!

The 95 attenuator steps are exact 2 dB increments:
10 0dB
9.5 -2dB
9.0 -4 dB
....
post #6136 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

You have to check to see what looks best with your combo (the display also matters). I recommend picking an explicit choice for Color Space. The OUTPUT settings of the D2v should also be set explicitly. Note that it's OK for the input and output of the D2v to be different if that looks better.

If you search the 93 thread for a post by me citing "Ratatouille", you'll find one possible way to check for the best fit of Deep Color and Color Space combos.

All the basic video levels have to be adjusted properly first (usually done using ONLY the controls in your TV). Recheck that those settings still hold if you change Deep Color or Color Space (they should, but check). Use a calibration disc like Spears & Munsil for this.

ETA: Avoid using RGB PC Level output unless that's the only thing that works. That's for displays intended for use as computer monitors instead of home theater devices. So you've got 3 Color Space choices and the set of Deep Color Choices for each.

Just to give you an idea how much fun this can be, in MY setup, YCbCr 4:4:4 works best for HDMI 1 video, and RGB Video Level works best for HDMI 2 video. Go figur....

With my Display, Deep Color OFF (Dithered) works best on HDMI 1, and Deep Color OFF on HDMI 2.

For most people with newer displays, I'd expect Deep Color 36 Bit to be the more likely choice, at least on HDMI 1 when not using Source Direct.
--Bob

Thanks Bob. I will test with various combinations and see what works best. I'll avoid RGB PC level though as you say. Cheers!

Brian
post #6137 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by m4bama View Post

OK would let me where you got the mod at or pm me.

Choice of standard or pro ; the pro has already received a firmware upgrade so it plays nice with a particular oppo beta firmware ; its a good piece of mind
http://www.bluraychip.dk/product.php?id_product=15
post #6138 of 11017
The Oppo players look quite interesting I must say. I am quite active on the Sigma/NMT players (and previously with HDI Dune players) and try to make my own "llink" be compatible with as many things as possible.

Has anyone tested to see if "llink" will work with the Oppo players, including playing directly from RAR archives?

Do Oppo encourage or discourage developers like myself? I have dev boards for sigma and ce4100 chips, but also curious about the Marvell.

Lund
post #6139 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutron77 View Post

The XLR outputs, terminated single-sided as you have them, should be at least as good as the RCA outs. In fact, you could use BOTH the + and - sides of the XLR pins to single-sided outputs to drive two identical headsets simultaneously (they would be phase-reversed of course) .. with outstanding performance. 500 ohm (with 150 ohm for R2) should be fine with your ER4s. It is amazing that the phones dissipat. only 0.40 mW to get 96 dBSPL!

The 95 attenuator steps are exact 2 dB increments:
10 0dB
9.5 -2dB
9.0 -4 dB
....

Hope the volume increments will be 1.5dB for each step on the remote, as most of us (as I understood it) can detect noticeable difference with every 3dB changes in SPL, not 100% sure, but I think I can detect some difference between level 10 & 9.5 with high quality source - SACD, so the finer the increment, the better.
post #6140 of 11017
Hey all, just ordered one of these from Audio Advisor. My receiver doesn't do HDMI, so I'll be using the multi-channel analog outputs.

Any suggestions on good interconnect cables to use that don't cost another arm and leg (since I already paid an arm and a leg for this player)? Obviously I'll need to buy three pairs of 'em.

Thanks!
post #6141 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Simandl View Post

Hey all, just ordered one of these from Audio Advisor. My receiver doesn't do HDMI, so I'll be using the multi-channel analog outputs.

Any suggestions on good interconnect cables to use that don't cost another arm and leg (since I already paid an arm and a leg for this player)? Obviously I'll need to buy three pairs of 'em.

Thanks!

Blue Jeans cable or Monoprice, depending on your budget, both offer good value for the money, Monoprice has less quality control, but they
have very good return policy.
post #6142 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Simandl View Post

Hey all, just ordered one of these from Audio Advisor. My receiver doesn't do HDMI, so I'll be using the multi-channel analog outputs.

Any suggestions on good interconnect cables to use that don't cost another arm and leg (since I already paid an arm and a leg for this player)? Obviously I'll need to buy three pairs of 'em.

Thanks!

Being a former Audioquest enthusiast, I was skeptical about using Monoprice just based on the low low prices. However, based on price alone I decided to give them a try and have been an avid convert ever since. The quality of the cables are great, their return policy is amazing, and they flat out rock in my modest setup. To put it in perspective:

When I got my Oppo bdp-95, I purchased the following for less than $60:

1) 8 x 6 ft rca interconnects
2) 2 x 24 gauge 10 ft hdmi 1.4 with ethernet cables
3) 2 x 6 ft premium XLR Female to RCA Male cables (not adapters, the gold connectors are top notch for a $7 cable)

The quality of the cables are amazing, and they work like a charm. I have audioquest RCAs going out of my Oppo dedicated stereo analog outs as well, and have a had a chance to perform direct A-B comparisons with the Monoprice XLR-RCA. Monoprice is at least as good as the audioquest. Even the Monoprice RCAs on my Multi Ch Analogs are great.

The HDMI cables are amazing as well.

As an FYI, I also use Monoprice premium XLR Male - RCA cables between my receiver and Rotel RMB-1095 amp, as well as from my receiver to my velodyne HGS-15 Sub using an Audioquest Y adapter.

Hope this helps.

KS
post #6143 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutron77 View Post

hmm, the specs I see for the ER4s shows 100 dB/mW (the ER4p are 106 dB/mw). With the circuit components, you would get ~ 91 dB SPL for max. volume from the OPPO players. With R1 = 500 ohm (instead of 1 kohm), which is about the minimum value of R1 you should use, you would get 96 dB SPL listening level. (The efficiency/sensitivity conversion script is now added at the bottom of the web page.

The calculator also allows you to change the R1/R2 resistor divider values and displays the voltage and power dissipated at the headphones.

ER4s is out of stock, ER4p is easier to get, but it is rated 27 Ohm @1khz, will ER4p truly becomes an ER4s with a 75 Ohm adapter ?
ER4p is more efficient when connects to an iPod, but would it have even lower SPL output than ER4s with your HP box/Oppo 95 combo, as the resistance is different.
post #6144 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm120525 View Post

ER4s is out of stock, ER4p is easier to get, but it is rated 27 Ohm @1khz, will ER4p truly becomes an ER4s with a 75 Ohm adapter ?
ER4p is more efficient when connects to an iPod, but would it have even lower SPL output than ER4s with your HP box/Oppo 95 combo, as the resistance is different.

The calculator on the web page allows you to change ALL the parameters (all resistors in the divider, headphone impedance, sensitivity and player internal resistance and drive voltage). Give it a try ... however, even though the ER4p has lower impedance, the higher sensitivity more than compensates for that (in the circuit). So with R1=500ohm, R2=150 ohm, you will get nearly 100 dBSPL listening level (as you will verify).
There might be a bug or 2 lurking so if you see something untoward, let me know.
post #6145 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutron77 View Post

The calculator on the web page allows you to change ALL the parameters (all resistors in the divider, headphone impedance, sensitivity and player internal resistance and drive voltage). Give it a try ... however, even though the ER4p has lower impedance, the higher sensitivity more than compensates for that (in the circuit). So with R1=500ohm, R2=150 ohm, you will get nearly 100 dBSPL listening level (as you will verify).
There might be a bug or 2 lurking so if you see something untoward, let me know.

Thanks again, was a bit confused as to which #s I need to use for your table - from ER4p's specs : "1 kHz sensitivity (ER-4P): 108 dB SPL for a 0.2 V input(102 dB @ 0.1 V; 106 dB @ 1mW) @ 27 Ohms" It is now clear to me that I only need to enter "106dB" & "27 Ohms" with R1=500 to get the 99.8 dBSPL output - with your HP box/95 combo, but your sensitivity figure seems to be different than those from ER4p's manual.
post #6146 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm120525 View Post

Thanks again, was a bit confused as to which #s I need to use for your table - from ER4p's specs : "1 kHz sensitivity (ER-4P): 108 dB SPL for a 0.2 V input(102 dB @ 0.1 V; 106 dB @ 1mW) @ 27 Ohms" It is now clear to me that I only need to enter "106dB" & "27 Ohms" with R1=500 to get the 99.8 dBSPL output - with your HP box/95 combo, but your sensitivity figure seems to be different than those from ER4p's manual.

The input for that table must be EITHER the efficiency in dBSPL /(1 mW) OR the sensitivity dBSPL (1Vrms). In their case use the efficiency since they give you that figure in the correct units, and convert to sensitivity:

The figures for the 4s agree exactly with their published figures:
ER-4s specifying 100 ohm and efficiency 100 dB/(1 mW) converts to 110 dBSPL (1 V). This is identical to 90 dBSPL(0.1V) in their table since 0.1V is 20dB less than 1V, and also with 108dBSPL (for 0.79Vrms) in their table. Perfect agreement.

The actual dbSPL (circuit), 99.8 dBSPL in your case, will of course depend on the circuit components R1 and R2 and Rphones etc...

For the ER-4p with 27 ohm and efficiency of 106 dB/1mW, my calculator predicts a sensitivity of 121.7 dBSPL/1V. Their spec for 0.1V should be exactly 20 dB lower or 101.7 dBSPL/(0.1V) which agrees with their spec of 102 dB/(0.1V). In addition, their spec for 0.2V should be exactly 6dB higher than the 0.1V spec which it is at 108 dB/0.2V. Perfect agreement.
post #6147 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutron77 View Post

The input for that table must be EITHER the efficiency in dBSPL /(1 mW) OR the sensitivity dBSPL (1Vrms). In their case use the efficiency since they give you that figure in the correct units, and convert to sensitivity:

The figures for the 4s agree exactly with their published figures:
ER-4s specifying 100 ohm and efficiency 100 dB/(1 mW) converts to 110 dBSPL (1 V). This is identical to 90 dBSPL(0.1V) in their table since 0.1V is 20dB less than 1V, and also with 108dBSPL (for 0.79Vrms) in their table. Perfect agreement.

The actual dbSPL (circuit), 99.8 dBSPL in your case, will of course depend on the circuit components R1 and R2 and Rphones etc...

For the ER-4p with 27 ohm and efficiency of 106 dB/1mW, my calculator predicts a sensitivity of 121.7 dBSPL/1V. Their spec for 0.1V should be exactly 20 dB lower or 101.7 dBSPL/(0.1V) which agrees with their spec of 102 dB/(0.1V). In addition, their spec for 0.2V should be exactly 6dB higher than the 0.1V spec which it is at 108 dB/0.2V. Perfect agreement.

Perfect explanation, thanks a lot !
post #6148 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutron77 View Post

To take advangate of the 4.2V differential swing for headphone usage, you'd probably need to add a differential input opamp box, with one amp for each of the 2 XLR outputs (what active headphone amps with XLR inputs do). ....

Here is a simple way to do this ... it would provide similar performance to the dedicated stereo-outs but with a hotter signal:
.
The 100 ohm output resistor is capacitance isolation and current limit (similar to OPPO stereo outs).
post #6149 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bachelor View Post

I've had some B&K issues and hooked the Oppo directly to my 2 channel and 5 channel amps using the volume control on the Oppo with pretty good results. I'll do this until I can decide what to do for a different HT preamp.

Just wondering also what is the lowest frequency the Oppo send signal wise?

I have always been in a search for the 3-120hz for bass so I just wanted to make sure I could do this with this as a preamp.
post #6150 of 11017
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Just wondering also what is the lowest frequency the Oppo send signal wise?

I have always been in a search for the 3-120hz for bass so I just wanted to make sure I could do this with this as a preamp.

You can check the oscilloscope details on hometheaterhifi or audioholics for the frequency response. I don't believe you will have an issue using the Oppo as a preamp. It's sending the same data regardless if you have it hooked up to a preamp or directly to the amp.
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