Originally Posted by starman7
Many thanks D-Nice!
There certainly does seem to be some debate about these settings...
1080p/24 set to ON or AUTO ?
With regard to Deep Color I keep hearing conflicting things. What is the pros and cons of having Deep Color ON or OFF or AUTO?
Another member said this about Deep Color:
"You should really enable deep colour even if your display isn't capable. Qdeo True Color (QTC) is only enabled on the HDMI1output if deep colour is turned on. Qdeo True Color helps eliminate contouring seen when viewing typical 8-bit consumer video."
1080p/24 ON will send /24 to the display (when present in the content) EVEN IF the display says it can't accept it. If connecting through an AVR the same thing applies to what the AVR says.
It is for rare cases of older displays that really can handle /24 input properly but which don't publish that fact during the HDMI handshake. Normally if you force /24 into a display that says it can't accept it you will get no picture.
So most people should NOT use ON. Use AUTO or OFF. The same is true for 3D Mode.
In both cases if the content does not consist of /24 or of 3D video then OFF is used anyway. I.E., the player does not try to CONVERT video to /24 or to 3D.
The correct combination of HDMI Color Space and Deep Color settings, including whether or not to use Dithering, is not something subject to any pat answer. That's because way too many AVRs and Displays do non-intuitive things with some of these data format combos. I.E., they have bugs or are cutting corners with some of them.
You just have to try the various combos and see which works best with your particular model of AVR and TV, the firmware installed in each, and the settings you have picked in each.
For one way to do this, search the 93 sticky thread for a post by me citing "Ratatouiille", Blu-ray. Note that a prerequisite for making such a comparison is that you have the basic video settings and levels correct in the display to begin with. For that you need to FIRST use a good video calibration disc like Spears & Munsil.
Be aware that some displays have bugs requiring you to use slightly different "best" levels settings for different video input data formats. So having picked the correct settings for one format, you then have to run through the other combos of OPPO output (Color Space and Deep Color) to make sure the same settings work for all of them -- or that you know what changes are needed for any of them. Only THEN can you do a useful comparison with that Ratatouille scene.
There are even cases such as some Samsung displays where the correct levels get screwed up if you use /24 input. And some displays will have bugs which keep you from getting good results AT ALL with some input formats. Just discard the video data format combos that can't be handled properly in your display and choose between the rest to see which seems to work best.
NOTE: HDMI Color Space RGB PC Level is intended for use with displays designed primarily to be computer monitors. Most people should NOT use that choice. Use it only if none of the other Color Space choices can be made to work well. Changing between RGB Video Level (the normal choice for RGB for home theater) and RGB PC Level will ALSO require you to manually toggle an RGB "black levels" setting in your AVR or Display to match. The HDMI handshake can not do that for you. RGB Video level sends Black as 16, White as 235, and includes Blacker Than Black and Peak White data. RGB PC Level sends Black as 0, White as 255, but DISCARDS any Blacker Than Black or Peak White data since values below 0 or above 255 are not possible.
NOTE 2: There are all sorts of theoretical arguments as to which data format combo should be used based on the format used to record the data on disc (which is actually something called YCbCr 4:2:0 with no "Deep Color") or the format that is closest to the "native" format used by the display for its internal video processing. The problem is, quirks (bugs) in AVRs and displays trump all that. So do the comparisons yourself and trust what your eyes, the test charts, and critical test scenes like that Ratatouille scene are telling you. Be sure to check the owner's thread for both your AVR and Display for advice, but in the end trust the results you yourself are getting. The people reporting in those threads may have different firmware installed for example.
NOTE 3: In MY setup, the "best" video data format is DIFFERENT for HDMI 1 video and for HDMI 2 video. That's partly because Dithering is not available on HDMI 2. The point being, if you intend to use video from both outputs (which I have to do for Beta Testing purposes), check the two of them separately.
ETA: Here's the post discussing that useful test scene in "Ratatouille", Blu-ray, I cited above:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post19915778