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The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 37

post #1081 of 1462
Hi everyone. I am newbie. I am planning to make myself a Silver Fire v2.5 5.0 screen. I need a screen that can combat ambient light as my room has white wall, ceiling and floor.
I am from Malaysia..therefore many brands mentioned here are not available locally. Over here, there's Dulux and Nippon Paint.

100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
16ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
9ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue
Do I need all of them in that ratio? Are they water based acrylic paint? If yes, I guess any brand will do. Is it even possible to buy just 100ml in hardware shops? What's the color code?

Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish--]Any wood finish/top coat will do? Is there any special feature that I should look out for?

Rustoleum Metallic Accents-- Is this a metallic top coat? What's so special about "White Pearl"?

Liquitex Basics Silver & Liquitex Basics Gold-- Water based acrylic paint?

Behr 1850 UPW Flat--- Enamel paint?

Sorry for asking all these as hunting for brand alternatives is a PITA job when one is not in the States.
post #1082 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Trying to re-source every component in SF with an alternative is not feasible. There would be no assurance, let alone a real possibility that everything assembled would re-create SF attributes.

Still, where there is a will, there is usually a way.
post #1083 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

Hi everyone. I am newbie. I am planning to make myself a Silver Fire v2.5 5.0 screen. I need a screen that can combat ambient light as my room has white wall, ceiling and floor.
I am from Malaysia..therefore many brands mentioned here are not available locally. Over here, there's Dulux and Nippon Paint.

100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
16ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
9ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue
Do I need all of them in that ratio? Are they water based acrylic paint? If yes, I guess any brand will do. Is it even possible to buy just 100ml in hardware shops? What's the color code?

Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish--]Any wood finish/top coat will do? Is there any special feature that I should look out for?

Rustoleum Metallic Accents-- Is this a metallic top coat? What's so special about "White Pearl"?

Liquitex Basics Silver & Liquitex Basics Gold-- Water based acrylic paint?

Behr 1850 UPW Flat--- Enamel paint?

Sorry for asking all these as hunting for brand alternatives is a PITA job when one is not in the States.

U can get Liquitex products at this website that is based in Malaysia. I was sourcing the other products and will update them here or will send u a PM.

http://www.scrapbookmemories.my/webshaper/store/manufacturer.asp?mfc=51

Mirnwax Polycrylic might be available in Ace Hardware - I will check and confirm.

Rustoleum has a Malaysian distributor at the following link that u can verify.

http://rustoleum.com/cbgcorporate.asp?sn=in&ci=26
Edited by venkatesh_m - 4/23/13 at 5:59am
post #1084 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Well wowser...and cool beans too! That sort of effort providing the needed information for out SE Asian membership to utilize is more valuable than most can imagine. Only the water based Clear Satin Polyurethane remains problematical, and hopefully such can be found labeled as "Water based Clear Satin Polyurethane Floor Finish"

Hopefully, the Asian Distributors of Dulux are now carrying "Light & Space" in Flat Interior Enamel, as the quality of that Bright white acrylic paint is among the best there is. But...it's also horribly thick stuff, so it should be thinned with water separately before adding it to the other Reflective Base components.

Please list all "Asian" sources you find on this Thread, and I will re-post them on the First page for all to avail themselves of.

Thank you so very much, venkatesh_m!
post #1085 of 1462
MM,

Will update as I find the stuff.

Still looking for Sintra sheets and the Behr (UPW white) or as u said the Dulux Flat Interior Enamel. I do recall reading something about Glidden as a potential replacement as well.

Wondering if this will also work.

http://www.dulux.com.my/EN/paint-products/glidden-wall-sealer.html

Anyway, am seriously looking at something like the DNP 08-85 that I demo'ed a couple of weeks ago as its one of the best screens I hv seen so far. DIY seems like a fun way to make a cost effective solution while learning along the way.

I was really impressed with the way the DNP preserved the blacks and kept the bright colours hot spotting free in a living room environment or dark room as well.
post #1086 of 1462
Hi all , been quietly researching DIY screens for a couple weeks now , getting ready to pull the trigger on a Benq W1070 and want to roll my own . I actually just put up a 5/8" 49" x 85" sheet of MDF painted with Killz 2 tinted to Behr "silverscreen" I had left over from another project . It puts the true difference in size coming from my 50" plasma into perspective . This is going to be my daily driver in a high ambient light room @ 11' x 15' , screen is going on east wall (11') and I'm shooting for 100-110" screen , will mount the PJ where recommended on benq calculator , although I'm working on designing an adjustable mount so I can move the PJ fore and aft to test optimal placement. I know concwssions have to be made for day viewing and I'm fine with that , have the same problem with my plasma washing out during day viewing , night viewing is more important for overall pq , but I want the best compromise .
So , a couple questions for the experts.
1) I'm thinking about SF 3 to start but open to going darker if someone ( MM or PB) says starting that light is pointless with my ambient light situation .
2) Is the combo I looking at ( w1070, 100-110" screen , @ 12'5" seating distance) going to be workable , or should I modify my hopes/goals due to environment ?
3) Material question , has anyone tested, used , checked out the Martha Stewart metallic paint or metallic glaze for this mix? I saw it yesterday and was instantly curious , mostly because it was right there at H.D. as opposed to having to order the Rustoleum , or brave the crowds at Michaels , those knitting and scrapbooking seniors are deadly( at the one by my place) .
Thanks for all the help everyone has already given , and thanks in advance for assisting me , great information and very helpful contributors .
post #1087 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Here are some suggested details for your build.

Size has everything to do with PJ placement, ambient light needs, seating distance. As far as size goes, 110" is quite do-able with the BenQ. 100" is as well, and the drop in size relates more to having a noticeable increase in ambient light viewing potential.

Here are some figures relating to both dimensions.

Screen size:


100" diagonal - Throw 8' 10" - Foot Lambert level 32fl

110" diagonal - Throw 9' 7" - Foot Lambert level 27fl

Both throw distances are minimized but not maxed down to the absolute shortest possible throw.
(...and remember, "Throw" means the distance from the Face of the PJ's Lens....not the Center of the Mount...)

With what you describe as being a "High Ambient Light" environment, such a course is absolutely necessary. Also, the "FL" values are based on a 1.0 gain surface. A higher gain / high contrast surface will perform even better.

Save yourself the trouble of making a adjustable track, because the above suggested figures are essentially your only / best recourse.

Paint:

Well, if your serious about wanting to "Roll your own" then Silver Fire is not a viable option. Because of it's high metallic content and translucent nature, spraying is mandatory.

Spray, and SF v2.5 3.0 would be just the ticket in this instance, especially for the 110"er. For the 100"er, you could bump up to SF v2.5 4.0

Roll,
and your limited to RS-MaxxMudd LL, and to increase it's ambient light potential a bit more, adding 2 oz of Liqutex Basics Neutral Gray to the "entire" mix will make the RS-MM-LL a slightly darker Silver Gray

As for the Martha Stewart Silver Metallic, I too have been casting glances at the stuff, but as of yet have not done any testing on it's potential use. And by "testing" I mean actually doing a sizable surface and hitting it with actual varied projector content.

Now the size and consistency of the Metallic content in the Silver seem pretty good, but at this conjecture any attempt by someone to give it a trial run could only be adjudged as being exactly that. And...as previously stated, only a really sizable example can provide the real world data needed. Little squares placed centered on a screen just do not give an accurate enough result....in my own experience,,,which is considerable.

If I was to give you an estimate as to the potential for a successful use of the MS-SM, it would be a 75% chance. That's about it, and at that level, myself, I'd be hesitant to apply any mix containing such an unknown value on anything but a sizable sheet of inexpensive practice material. That might involve using a sheet of Thrifty White hardboard, which of course would amount to being a 98" diagonal screen.

And who knows but that you might just stop there...... wink.gif
post #1088 of 1462
MM, thank you for the valuable input, all the info I've been trying to gather is a lot to deal with so its very helpful to have someone with your experience putting all the pieces together in simple to understand language.
Roll my own was a phrase, I have read up and know spray is the only option for SF, and believe that is going to be the best bang for my buck, so it will get sprayed. Lucky for me I have a good friend who's a pro paint contractor and had electric hvlp guns that I can ply with beer, and clean his machine after so I don't have to fumble around spraying myself.
As for the adjustable mount, it's an engineering exercise I got in my head so I could optimize placement/throw for my situation, and one those crazy ideas get in there, well, gotta get them out. So it'll probably happen, but I can use it in conjunction with your data to determine if 27fl will allow me to view during the day with the doors and windows open, or going 100" with 32fl is optimal in my case. Another consideration of course is light reflection of the surrounding surfaces, white walls and ceiling, hardwood floor, all may change in the future but not right away.
The MDF panel I hung the other day is going to be my experiment panel. It is going to be finished off at a 98" diagonal, and my "control" is the kills silver screen. I'm going to shot the image on it first, then improve from there. Once I get the ultimate screen, then I'm going to switch to sintra for the 100 or 110". leaning toward backlit with color shifting led and frameless with the backing wall covered with black velvet, but that will be a whole down the road as finances, and crazy ideas come into my mind.
I might experiment with the Martha Stewart metallics on my MDF, is not too expensive to mix into a matte paint, don't think I'd try tampering with the true SF mix but it may be interesting to see if it gives an improvement over my "control". Unless you feel an amateur wouldn't be able to garner any benefit (knowledge) from that experiment, or if you can give a little insight as to how to best run the experiment so it might help smarter folks review how the Martha Stewart performs.
Because I'm planning on testing a few different paints along the way, would you recommend a white primer prior to me shooting the next "experiment" coating, or just proper prep and right over the last? Especially when I get to mixing and spraying the SF, I don't want the underlaying layers effecting the performance.
I'm planning on documenting as much of my insanity as I can, but I'm limited by hating to stop once I get going, and I only have my phone camera and a point and shoot, but I will do my best to give a little back to a great friendly community. Thanks again.
post #1089 of 1462
Thread Starter 
A good performing "Control" that involves using a minimal amount of various paints would be to try that Hoary Old progenitor of all the Ambient light paints, MississippiMud SE (Silver Edition)

A simple 3 part Mix.

1 Quart Behr UPW Interior Enamel Flat
8 Ounces Minwax Poly Satin
8 Ounces Rustoleum Pearlescent

To which you'd add one of those little 4 oz. jars of MS-SM and stir using the Squirrel Cage mixer.

It will also have to be diluted with enough water (approx. 12-14 oz minimum) to flow through a Gun, but it should do quite well for you. Maybe too good. eek.gif

In truth, MM-SE is a pretty good mix. I has plenty of gain but not hot spotting, and here's a good thing....the two ingredients (Poly & Pearl) that you have to pay the most for, you can get Quarts of both, use 8 oz for the control, and the rest for the SF mix.

Now then...you absolutely should White prime any previously painted surface that is not already a bright white.

I can tell you in advance that a Screen mix made from Kilz-2 tinted Silver Screen will be at best only a practice run type affair, not anything at all to judge a future "Higher Performance endeavor by. By my reasoning, spending for the suggested Control Mix won't involve any wastage of funds, and will provide a example much closer to that of a full blown advanced Mix like Silver Fire.

But..........................................if your determined to go that route, then use this formula:

1 Quart Behr UPW Interior Enamel Flat tinted to SS
2 oz. of Martha's best sparkly stuff
Water added to taste.....

Shoot that onto the Control Screen in "Duster" fashion.

You really don't want to use Kilz-2 as it can introduce it's own type of "sparklies".
post #1090 of 1462
Thank you once again MM . The killz was used on my 4 x 8 sheet temp screen simply because I already had it here , tinted to Behr S.S. Since you feel it would be a bad "control" I'll reprime white then either go with your MM SE or try the suggested mix with Marthas finest . Will using Killz as the white primer have the "sparklie" issue introduced under any of the coatings ( MM SE , SF ) or is there anothe primer ya'll prefer for your combos ? I don't mind spending a few bucks on paint to tinker , a lot of these experiments are for me to learn while on the MDF board so I can get everything as perfect as possible with the final sintra screen . While I can get my friend to shoot it for me and I know he does top level custom painting , I'd still really like for my finished product to be 100% built by me ( with all the help from you and these forums of course) . Thank you again
post #1091 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by acras13 View Post

Thank you once again MM . The killz was used on my 4 x 8 sheet temp screen simply because I already had it here , tinted to Behr S.S. Since you feel it would be a bad "control" I'll reprime white then either go with your MM SE or try the suggested mix with Marthas finest . Will using Killz as the white primer have the "sparklie" issue introduced under any of the coatings ( MM SE , SF ) or is there anothe primer ya'll prefer for your combos ? Thank you again

Awwww.........and here I thought your using the Martha was a lock. frown.gif

Actually, review and you'll note I was suggesting you use the Martha for either MM-SE or the simpler UPW-MS and review of how good that less expensive Silver might be. Either way we all would get a first impression from a fresh source. Might start a trend? biggrin.gif

Primer wise, I recently switched 100% over to BullEye 123 because it's thinner yet still provides excellent coverage. Kilz-2 can be a pain. However, once you tint Kilz, or mix it with other paints, the slight tendency of it to sparkle is greatly diminished. And if instead it's used as a true white primer undercoat, you would never see any indication of it adding any "sparkle". Just a good, reflective back-coating.
post #1092 of 1462
Thinking about both with marthas and without , so I can see in person what differences her secret recipe introduces . It doesn't seem like a lot of cash outlay for the materials for my tinkering fix , and really the only true way for me to see, however amateur and untrained my eyes are .
Thats one of the things I really like about what you and others are doing here with the DIY forums , the material outlay is a small fraction of what a manufactured screens costs , and tons of people who are very enthusiastic about the end result . I don't care about what the naysayers have been throwing around , I'm a grown up ( sort of anyway) and I have seen enough positive feedback about some of these coatings to warrant giving them a shot , and I accept that buying an expensive manufactured screen might outperform what I'm capable of making myself , but then spending $20,000 to build a dedicated theater room would too.
I'll switch over to bulleye for spraying , Ive used killz for ages because I like the thickness when I'm blending and patching holes I've had to punch in walls ( electrician by trade , jack of most due to necessity ).
Thank you for all your help , I honestly wonder when you hit the powerball , because as much time as you put in to helping everyone in just about every DIY thread I've seen in avs you couldn't have any time to work for a living .
post #1093 of 1462
while i haven't ventured to put my money down on the martha stewart metallics...
i find it very interesting that approx a year after rustoleum metallics showed up on the scene at menard's
and home depot no longer carried a metallic latex product...
that home depot is now carrying the 'new' metallics by martha stewart.
if i were a betting man... i'd venture to guess... that a certain company we are already familiar with is repackaging the
martha stewart metallics... but in smaller more affordable quantities.

unfortunately the containers are sealed... so i couln't make a visual and physical observation... but a couple of metallic containers
appeared to have some promise.
be forewarned though, there were some containers/colors where i could clearly see the physical individual mica flakes... and that is clear sign to stay away from.

as for availability... only about 50% of the home depot stores i've recently visited are carring the MS branded metallics.

as for saving money... the liquitex silver is $4.99 for a 4oz tube... vs the MS silver for $5.99 for the 10oz...
honestly, the less than $4 savings on a batch of RS-MM... i'd go with the tried and true.

now if the MS was a substitute for the pearl metallics... than the savings would be more justified.
Edited by pb_maxxx - 4/26/13 at 3:14pm
post #1094 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

while i haven't ventured to put my money down on the martha stewart metallics...
i find it very interesting that approx a year after rustoleum metallics showed up on the scene at menard's
and home depot no longer carried a metallic latex product...
that home depot is now carrying the 'new' metallics by martha stewart.
if i were a betting man... i'd venture to guess... that a certain company we are already familiar with is repackaging the
martha stewart metallics... but in smaller more affordable quantities.

unfortunately the containers are sealed... so i couln't make a visual and physical observation... but a couple of metallic containers
appeared to have some promise.
be forewarned though, there were some containers/colors where i could clearly see the physical individual mica flakes... and that is clear sign to stay away from.

as for availability... only about 50% of the home depot stores i've recently visited are carring the MS branded metallics.

I JUST looked into the specs of the Martha Stewart metallics lines ( paint and glaze) both list "mica beads" .

From H.D. website :
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

The Martha Stewart Living 10 oz Metallic Paints and Glazes create a new accent wall or add a metallic touch. This water-based paint, infused with mica beads, instantly creates a rich shimmering metallic finish that can be easily applied with a brush or sponge. The rich metallic finish includes a satin sheen for clean-looking results. One 10 oz. can covers up to 25 sq. ft. and can dry to the touch in as little as 30 minutes.

Applies easily with a brush or sponge to decorate craft projects, interior surfaces and furnishings, easy soap and water clean-up
Water-based, low odor formula dries in approximately 30 minutes
Elegant satin sheen helps hide material imperfections for a smooth finish
Each jar yields up to 25 sq. ft. of coverage
All purpose home decorating metallic paints and glazes
Cleans easily with soap and water
Actual paint colors may vary from on-screen and printer representations
MFG Model # : 259281
MFG Part # : 259281
post #1095 of 1462
ok. had a good hard look at other MS paint products...
and it's quite clear that MS has most likely brought her 'craft' line of metallic products and repackaged them for the home improvement market...
namely Home Depot as Menard's already has a line of metallic products.

i'm actually a bit saddened by this... as i was seriously hoping she had soliciated either Modern Masters or Rustoleum for this metallic lineup.

unfortunately, i would now venture to say... this MS lineup... is on par with the original MM and SF... in that the metallics come either Delta or Plaid.
post #1096 of 1462
Well , glad I found out before mixing and spraying that it would be a step backward from the current SF mix , I'm used to learning the hard way so this is kind of new and different for me , but I'm trying to deal with it.
post #1097 of 1462
there's good and bad in this...
the good is for the people who want a low cost option/alternative...
and where MaxxMudd is concerned... is less than $20 more than an inferior OTS SilverScreen...
better yet... they can do so by sourcing the pearl metallic component locally... instead of online... and for less than half the price.

so don't let me discourage you...
because the truth is... what this forum needs is folks who will step up to the plate and swing...

not arm chair quarterbacks who will naysay a the drop of a hat... without ever having thrown a pigskin.
post #1098 of 1462
Just have to lace up my boots and put on my cup ( no need for a helmet) and I'm in the game coach . Haven't ordered the benq w1070 yet , I research the crap out of things prior to buying , just about there now , probably within the next two weeks . Looking forward to entering the frey instead of being on the sidelines.
post #1099 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Win one for the Gipper. cool.gif
post #1100 of 1462
I have been a long time lurker here and elsewhere and have chosen AVS as I feel the advice given and reduced bickering makes this the place to be.

At work, I was tasked with upgrading the projector and screen in a conference room. I am awaiting quotes for a DNP screen install and a Digital Projection projector.... This has re-ignited my home theater project. Currently this is in the basement where the future apartment for our kids will be. We have a bonus room over the garage needing finishing, and my better half has given me free reign to design and finish this room any way I want (within reason), and I have to do everything myself. The only other qualifier was that I had to choose between a LCD TV, or a projector, not both, and no pull down screens. The screen has to be mounted.

While I have a decent sized room at 16' x 25' with a 9' x 9' alcove in a "T" shaped room, there is only one acceptable location for the screen location, and that is above a sealed gas fireplace installed at the focal point of the room (Top center of the "T" shape"). This results in a maximum screen size having a vertical height of 40". So, I am not going for the largest screen possible, but something a little larger than a 60" flat panel TV. The challenges for this installation are that there are windows on the adjacent wall to the right of the screen, plus a window at the base of the "T" shape in the room directly behind the projector mounting location. The windows will have blinds and curtains, but this room will be a media room with sections for reading, artwork, games etc. So, during the day, the lights will be on and the window to the right of the screen will not be darkened. Not an overly challenging ambient lighting situation, but it would completely wash out the white "Do-Able" board currently in use in the basement. Note: I am finishing the drywall at this point and have not chose paint colors yet. I did create four lighting zones so the lights in front of the screen can be turned off while keeping the side lights on. Each zone is four 60 watt floods, plus a chandelier in zone 4.

My current projector is an Epson 9300i multimedia projector. It is rated for 2500 lumens but I have about 1000 hrs on the bulb. The plan is to get one or two new bulbs, then upgrade the projector in a couple of years. I am seriously looking at the JVC DLA projectors and may be able to get a good deal on a Digital Projection unit from the installer doing the installs at work. I would target 2000 lumens or greater with the new projector.

The screen will be about an 80" diagonal, but I may build a 2.35 to 1 screen maintaining the 40" screen height planning for the upgraded projector. I have tested the 9300's zoom and at about a 12' throw, it can zoom to fit the full 4:3 image at one end and a 16:9 image at the other end of the zoom within the 40" vertical height. It does not have zoom / lens shift memory, but both are available on the remote control. I can mount the projector along a beam perpendicular to the screen at any location between 4' and 22' from the screen

So, before I start buying paint supplies, I bow down to the masters and ask their advice for what paint mix they feel is best for this situation. I am hoping for something that can boost the black levels of my current projector.

As far as my DIY skills. My father and I used to build homes together before I joined the Army. Since then, we designed and built our home. I love tinkering and built my own CNC machine to support that hobby. I am willing to try any paint mix, even more advanced formulations if that would get me as close as possible to the performance of a DNP screen.

I will put up some build threads for the room and screen and get some pictures posted soon.

Thank you very much - John Z
post #1101 of 1462
i can see a certain person... who's probably taken a break to go church and sing in the choir...
will soon be salivating with advice for your current projection project.

since you're screen is will less than 100"... question is...
are you east of the mississippi or west...
...ie. do you have a menard's nearby?

if so, we'll want to upgrade you from TWH to the 1/4" melamine board from menards.

as for the coating... your ripe for a high gain darker silver fire screen...
i'm thinking it's got to be a slightly modified SF v2.5 5.0

i'll let the MMan give his thoughts...
of course by then... i won't be able to swease in a world otherwise.
post #1102 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Actually, I'm sitting in a Hospital lobby, waiting for further word on my Great Niece who got kicked in the Midsection (both hoofs) by her Horse last night. Pretty bad....some damage to Spleen, Liver, and Pancreas. She's out of immediate danger now, but all there is to do is sit around and wait for updates. Prayers have been said....more are always appreciated. This helps keep me from getting all up into the Doctors' faces. redface.gif

PB is right...if you can optimize your Throw distance (minimize the distance actually), the 9300i can put up a very watchable image in really excessive ambient light. Under better controlled lighting circumstances, and using a screen as small as your considering....almost anything will be possible using Silver Fire v2.5 5.0 I dare say...vastly improved Black levels along with "DNP-like" performance. That's a given...been there, done that many time before.

I do like to do "Above Fireplace" Screens. I've got several examples up on the Forum to overview.

But I'm having issues with what you already state as being the ability of getting even such a small size screen from 12' using the 9300i. It shows to be a long throw PJ, and even at the smaller sizes your stating I don't see a 12' throw as being remotely possible. confused.gif

At 80" diagonal 4:3 I'm seeing that the "minimum" throw distance is just over 28' eek.gif
post #1103 of 1462
my apologies. seems i pick the wrong time to throw a few friendly barbs your way.mad.gif
instead, more prayers are headed your way.
post #1104 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

my apologies. seems i pick the wrong time to throw a few friendly barbs your way.mad.gif
instead, more prayers are headed your way.

Sawrite. I know you better than that.
post #1105 of 1462
I certainly hope for the best. Life has a way of throwing us trials when least expected. I have always taken the stance of taking care of family first and have told co-workers to go home to take care of needs first and i would cover for them. That being said, see to family first. I have no expectations for immediate responses. But if it helps to keep one from getting into the doctors face ....

The actual measured image size at our current setup. All measurements are of the full 4:3 projected image.

Throw: 175“
Zoom out: 96x70"
Zoom in: 70x52"

Quick off the top of my head calcs should put the projector around 12 foot back for a 40" tall screen taking zoom into account to fit the 4:3 image at one end and a 16:9 image onto the screen at the other. I have the flexibility to mount the projector anywhere along a beam between 4 and over 20 feet back.

I am really excited to do this project, and am even considering building a screen for a second conference room where an 80“ screen would be perfect.

Thank you everyone. Take care.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
post #1106 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Yeah...after raising 3 Sons, and coming from a 10 kid family, I've seen far too many cases where MDs were too hard pressed to address things in a proper / timely manner. All credit is due 95% of 'em, but that 5% remaining can be quite worrisome. In this case, it's the decision to not give my Great Niece any pain meds...at all...that has us all quite upset. They must be extremely cautious, and I understand why...but you can't hear moaning without it getting you horribly upset with everything around you. Thanks for the thoughts of support.

I bet that PJ received a Short Throw Lens exchange. Gotta be the answer. It was a very expensive PJ when new....intended for medium to larger Presentation venues.

In any case, I suggest you create a screen that is ideally formatted for 2.35:1. Keep the maximum height allowable for 4:3, and make the sides go wide enough for Cinemascope. Eventually you will upgrade....a Panny 8000 or such...and you absolutely want your Screen to be the strong point in all this, ready and waiting to continue in it's ability to please you 100%

Sour Grapes or "I guess I could'a / should'a...." type retrospect musings are not an option IMO.
post #1107 of 1462
john z,

...i took the liberties to guess the kind of ambient light you'd be dealing with...
and should you change your mind... you could always go with a white screen...
and get a little something like this to enjoy (approx a 70" diagonal area - UPW wall)...

post #1108 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

john z,

...i took the liberties to guess the kind of ambient light you'd be dealing with...
and should you change your mind... you could always go with a white screen...
and get a little something like this to enjoy (approx a 70" diagonal area - UPW wall)...

PB....... confused.gif

John wants to improve his Blacks. And ideally have a screen that will perform similarly to a SI-BD or DNP as far as ambient light viewing quality.

White Screen indeed.

Oh...I get it. Your funnin' !

Had me goin' fer a sec.

Ya gotta be careful, Pard. Sum such people ain't as qwik as I is.
rolleyes.gif
post #1109 of 1462
Thank you everyone. It looks like I actually have four projects to complete soon. Two for work, and two for home, and all must meet challenging ambient light conditions (one is an outdoor screen even). It looks like I am off to a good start. There is such expertise here and I am so excited to be rolling forward. And, YES, keep the levity coming, it is much appreciated.

Here locally, I have Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware and that is about it, although there are the local lumber yards and plastics suppliers as well.

I was at Lowes today to pick up some paint for the house and looked to see what they had on the shelf. They had three Graco HVLP paint sprayers. The Graco Spray Station 2900, 3900, and a Gemini. I know there is also the "No Name" sprayer which is available online too. I have over the years worn out three other paint sprayers, but have never used an HVLP sprayer before. The spray head looked to be identical among all three of these sprayers with the main difference being the 3900 added a 1.3 gallon back pack and the Gemini added a two gallon reservoir and a pressurized feed for larger projects. All three appeared to be able to run off of the turbine with a small paint cup at the gun. It looked like all three came with the 2 mm tip. I do have some large projects coming up this year what with finishing off the basement and our bonus room, plus putting color on the walls of the rest of the house. So, I would like to get a gun that would work for larger projects, or would I be better off just getting the "No Name" sprayer online plus an entry level commercial sprayer for everything else.

I did the math, and to project a 40" tall image, I need to mount my existing projector 136" away from the screen. This along with the projectors zoom will put both a 4:3 full projected image, or a zoomed larger 16:9 image right at 40". I also noticed that actual measurements show that the projected image is about 2% wider than it should be compared to the images height. For now, that is just fine. Now, if I wanted to make the image any larger to get a 2.35:1 image to be 40" tall, I would have to move the projector back an additional 38 inches. Hmmm, I have a pair of 48" long 20mm THK profile rails and linear bearings and a 48" Acme screw with bronze nut. I pulled this off my cnc machine when I upgraded the rails last year. Since I am boxing in the beams holding up the ceiling, I can think of a simple way to design a motorized sled to mount the projector to, and some cable chain for the wiring. The "worn out" bearings had about .010 play in them, perfect to hold up a projector, but worn out when used on a CNC machine milling aluminum. Hmmm, think of the possibilities. 4:3, 16:9 and 2.35:1 all possible from the same projector setup.

MM - Here is wishing for the best possible recovery for your Grand Niece. Prayers have gone your way.

PB - He He ;-). I have that Do-Able white screen already. That just isn't going to work unless coated, and then it does not stay straight, so it is out of the question. I did follow that image over to photobucket, and some of those test pictures look great.

P.S. If at all possible, I plan on doing a side by side comparison of a DNP SuperNova and one of my DIY screens once completed. Even if that means that I have to haul my screen into the local showroom, I am going to do that. Inquiring minds want to know.

I've got to get some sleep. Later - John Z
post #1110 of 1462
Thread Starter 
First a update.

My Great Niece has been removed from "Critical" and ICU, and it looks like no invasive surgeries will be required. There is her torn Liver, and Spleen, and severely bruised Pancreas to deal with, but the Docs' feel that Bed rest and Steroids will get the mending started. She could even be released to go home tomorrow. Remarkable considering a 1300 lb animal just double kicked her almost 10'. One thing remains a certainty. She won't be pushin' on the arse end of a horse while trying to load it into a Trailer ever again. eek.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnZeigler View Post

Thank you everyone. It looks like I actually have four projects to complete soon. Two for work, and two for home, and all must meet challenging ambient light conditions (one is an outdoor screen even). It looks like I am off to a good start. There is such expertise here and I am so excited to be rolling forward. And, YES, keep the levity coming, it is much appreciated.

It's hard to maintain a straight face (...and willing fingers...) at the keyboard at times. And brook no doubt, at times when I scare up the Thread page and see all that is waiting to be addressed, levity is not the first thing that comes to mind. No, it's really a way to help make it a more pleasant chore. As to if it's pleasant to read....I can only hope...or get ready to duck.
Quote:
Here locally, I have Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware and that is about it, although there are the local lumber yards and plastics suppliers as well.

It's a given that some of the needed items DIY'ers are tasked with assembling are often "Internet only" items.
Quote:
I was at Lowes today to pick up some paint for the house and looked to see what they had on the shelf. They had three Graco HVLP paint sprayers. The Graco Spray Station 2900, 3900, and a Gemini. I know there is also the "No Name" sprayer which is available online too.

The "No Name" is the Graco 2900, although sometimes they send a 3900 Turbine unit instead.
Quote:
I have over the years worn out three other paint sprayers, but have never used an HVLP sprayer before. The spray head looked to be identical among all three of these sprayers with the main difference being the 3900 added a 1.3 gallon back pack and the Gemini added a two gallon reservoir and a pressurized feed for larger projects.

The 1.3 gallon tank can be a Godsend on larger projects. I've been meaning to acquire one myself, but since I have numerous Quart Cups I just have made due until now. Sound like a familiar DIY refrain?
Quote:
All three appeared to be able to run off of the turbine with a small paint cup at the gun. It looked like all three came with the 2 mm tip. I do have some large projects coming up this year what with finishing off the basement and our bonus room, plus putting color on the walls of the rest of the house. So, I would like to get a gun that would work for larger projects, or would I be better off just getting the "No Name" sprayer online plus an entry level commercial sprayer for everything else.

Commercial Airless Sprayers are specifically designed for "large" projects such entire rooms, and they come with "paint tanks"...not Cups. Also they are Hose fed, so the Guns can easily be tilted & inverted...a critical thing if painting Ceilings is to be considered. HVLP is intended to be for "Detailing" and /or Fine Finishes. Wagner and Graco are trying hard to market their products for multi-use, hence the 2.0 mm Needles. But sending the proverbial "Boy to do a man's job" is not wise nor effective if House painting is intended.
Quote:
I did the math, and to project a 40" tall image, I need to mount my existing projector 136" away from the screen. This along with the projectors zoom will put both a 4:3 full projected image, or a zoomed larger 16:9 image right at 40". I also noticed that actual measurements show that the projected image is about 2% wider than it should be compared to the images height. For now, that is just fine. Now, if I wanted to make the image any larger to get a 2.35:1 image to be 40" tall, I would have to move the projector back an additional 38 inches. Hmmm, I have a pair of 48" long 20mm THK profile rails and linear bearings and a 48" Acme screw with bronze nut. I pulled this off my cnc machine when I upgraded the rails last year. Since I am boxing in the beams holding up the ceiling, I can think of a simple way to design a motorized sled to mount the projector to, and some cable chain for the wiring. The "worn out" bearings had about .010 play in them, perfect to hold up a projector, but worn out when used on a CNC machine milling aluminum. Hmmm, think of the possibilities. 4:3, 16:9 and 2.35:1 all possible from the same projector setup.

Many would envy such flexibility, but in truth, most everyone has deserted the 4:3 format, or in the least resigned thenselves to dealing with that format "as is" and focusing on getting 16:9 and 2.35:1 down effectively. To that extent, PJs such as the Panny 7000-8000s and the like that have Lens Memory features, or in the least PJs that have power Zoom and Shift are the more viable choices. However that does not take into account the desire for a tinkerer with a fertile mind and willing fingers to create something that can do essentially the same thing using a PJ not so blessed. And in DIY, that's always considered the epitomy of the art.
Quote:
MM - Here is wishing for the best possible recovery for your Grand Niece. Prayers have gone your way.

Thank you for everyone here. I for one am sure they worked. To my reasoning such is always been a case of "ask and ye shall receive".
Quote:
P.S. If at all possible, I plan on doing a side by side comparison of a DNP SuperNova and one of my DIY screens once completed. Even if that means that I have to haul my screen into the local showroom, I am going to do that. Inquiring minds want to know.

That would be stupendous...something many have clamored for (...and some have demanded...) for some time. Might well be a game changer for DIY-ism and it's validity in the eyes of many who either doubt, or refuse to consider it's worthiness to aspire to such comparisons. Myself, I have never shied away from such "one-on-ones", but actually having the opportunity to do such comparisons are rare.
Quote:
I've got to get some sleep. Later - John Z

I envy you. As for me...I have only my Maximum Strength 5 Hour Energy fix to look forward to. The stuff actually works, and since I've started indulging, my Vitamin uptake has increased exponentially. Oh...and that Niacin rush ain't bad either. wink.gif
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