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The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 39

post #1141 of 1462
Thread Starter 
RS MaxxMudd LL (Low Lumen)

Primary goal is aced.

Ditto 1st Secondary

Very slight tendency toward 2nd Secondary, but due to RS MM LL's ability to disperse light almost 180 degrees, it will be a minimal improvement.

The original "On-Off" Contrast of the 8602 was a claimed 30,000:1 so your "Native" contrast assessment is a pretty accurate one.

Your InFocus PJ harkens back to an era when 1300 lumen was considered "torch like" compared to the 600-700 lumen average of most Digital HT PJs. The 8602's only had a 2500 hour (Economy) Life span, and tended to go dim at well under 1/2 that time span. I can understand why brightness is a sought after priority.

With White Canvass being at best 0.9 gain, your getting (...with new lamp...) at best 16 fls at 150" diagonal. With RS MM LL's 1.2 to 1.3 gain you will get 22-24 fls, improve blacks, and retain a modest level of ambient light resistance.

Spraying will be best, but depending upon the surface texture of the Canvass, you may need to apply some Sherwin Williams "First Coat" Primer and sand before spraying on the RS MM LL.
post #1142 of 1462
Thanks MississippiMan.

If there's better PJs to be had in the 8602 price range nowadays, maybe I shouldn't do the screen for this PJ. Could you recommend something out there now for under $3500. I'd really only upgrade for noticeably more native contrast and this has 5000:1. Sorry about the OT but I should spray the screen for the final projector in mind.
post #1143 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Wow...if you can upgrade for a $2600.00* outlay, I'd go with the BenQ SH940 in a flash!

It has H&V Lens Shift, 4K Lumens so it will never have to be ran on anything but Economy, it has 50K:1 On-Off Contrast (DLP style) so it's native should be at least 2x that of the IF 8602.

At 150" diagonal, it's "Da BomB" PJ selection to make.

Absolutely you should spray, using RS-MaxxMudd Standard

* B&H Photo
post #1144 of 1462
I wanted to know. Now that the matt range of liquitex is easily available. Should one buy the matt or the regular basic.
post #1145 of 1462
I wanted to know. Now that the matt range of liquitex is easily available. Should one buy the matt or the regular basic.
post #1146 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by justdhruv View Post

I wanted to know. Now that the matt range of liquitex is easily available. Should one buy the matt or the regular basic.

The current formula as posted is based upon the use of the regular Basic, and results in a more easily mixed colorant.
post #1147 of 1462
Thanks MM.

Actually i did a SF screen last year. I think it was V2.1 ( with liquitex titanium white) and i did level 2 grey. As i have mentioned earlier that i live in india. Last time my sister had carried the liquitex stuff from the US and so i was able to do it.

I was quite happy with it. The reflective components in the mix really give the picture a zing.

Unfortunately i managed to get some minor dirt on the screen. I tried to clean with moist cloth. but it did not go away. Then the other day i wiped it with an alcohol swab. Though the dirt went away, the area where i had wiped/rubbed it became very smooth and almost glossy. It shows up as a patch.

So i am going to have to repaint the whole thing now. ( or does anybody have a better idea)

I have the titanium white left with me.Gold is also left. Restoleum is available here. I had some spare colourant left with me, but i did not put it in a air tight container and it dried on me. ( no pun intended). So i need the colours and silver.

I started reading the forum again and somehow i got confused about the matt. I also thought for a while that i had done the whole thing wrong the last time.

I was thinking, that may be i can go MaxxMudd way and just use liquitex silver. If mixing is the only issue against the matt then for the max mudd metthod can/should i use the matt silver.

I have a dedicated home theatre and ambient light is not a major concern.

But i love the SF i have.

all the advise is appreciated.
post #1148 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Before you go the repainted route, get a fine grit sanding sponge and using it "dry", very lightly sand the entire surface using long, sweeping vertical strokes that overlap each other. First lightly sand the offending area just until it loses the sheen, then equalize the entire surface texture with the full sanding.

With any degree of luck...that will solve your issue completely. If not, then the Screen will at least look better than before, and be all set for the re-coat.

And...if you do as instructed, you will probably only need two light dustings if your new mix matches the original closely enough.
post #1149 of 1462
Thanks MM. This could be a life safer. I will keep you posted. what grit size should i use....400 120?
post #1150 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by justdhruv View Post

Thanks MM. This could be a life safer. I will keep you posted. what grit size should i use....400 120?

Fine Sanding Sponges are usually 120 grit. 200 grit is ok. Anything too fine would require much more time sanding...but would result in the smoothest finish of course.
post #1151 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by rengep View Post

Yes the water is a part of the total amount of colorant mix wink.gif
This wasn't clear to me as well in the colorant mix until this answer. So for sf 2.5 3.0, the colorant mix including water will add up to 200 ml. Of that 200 ml, only roughly 90 ml will be used (3 oz). That effectively thins the paint to only 1.5 oz of paint, and 1.5 oz of water. Sorry to ask a question again, but I wanted to make sure I understood the above.

Orignally i thought I would need to use almost all the colorant for a 3.0, or double the recipe to have enough for a 5.0, but sounds like the water is included in that count?

Thanks
post #1152 of 1462
I am posting this message in both the s-i-l-v-e-r, silver fire and the Maxxmudd because the straining for these paint mixtues all have one main agenda, getting the paint to strain through the sock strainer at a rate equal to your pour in rate, with only a little back up. but the paint mixture i am using for this whole post is the one I'm using now, s-i-l-v-e-r. Hopefully this well aid others into not having all the problem,s i gathered on me, due to water amounts.
I CAN"T BELIEVE IT!!! All my problems with spraying s-i-l-v-e-r came down to one thing VISCOSITY. But not in how thin it was but how thick the mixture was. When i did the original s-i-l-v-e-r i added to much water to it from tipping my gallon can of mixed s-i-l-v-e-r to much while straining thus making me add more water to make sure the mix didn't back up. After that the mixture was still spitting and all i could think was "add more water, the mixture is still to thick"...Well..after talking with MississippiMan i began to think the whole s-i-l-v-e-r batch i made up still had to much water and maybe...just maybe having to much water was the issue. From that thought i went and bought a quart of Behr Faux glaze and added 2 oz of silver metallic plus the 4 oz of water that would be needed for making a quart of s-i-l-v-e-r plus and extra 1 oz of water for safe meassure. I hooked it up to my graco gun and sprayed. The mix sprayed out WONDERFUL, minus a few spit marks. But, these spit marks were diff then the spit marks from the super diluted, previous mix, so I added about 1 more oz and BAM!! the mixture exited the gun and gave a pattern that it was supposed to. Any other previous time, like if i was spraying some Kiltz primer or some kind of behr paint if i wanted a bigger and smoother spray i would add more water and that would help but not with s-i-l-v-e-r....Why does adding to much water with this formula or silver fire or any other ones make the gun spit more???
Just to give another visual add in. My super diluted, first batch of s-i-l-v-e-r, had a viscosity rating, according to the little visicosity cup that comes with the Graco Spray Station of 2 mins and 20 sec( I know we don't use the viscosity cup to determine the proper viscosity of s-i-l-v-e-r, just wanted a added visual). My new batch with the right amount of water had a viscosity rating over 5 MINS!! I can clearly see now why you don't use the viscosity cup to check for correct viscosity of the paint mixtures offered here. I have the Graco 3900 and the recommended viscosity rating, according to Graco is 190 seconds and they would say to me " you can't spray a mixture out of the 3900 with a viscosity rating over 5 mins....
With this knowledge i now know what happened to my Silver Fire i did last year. TO MUCH WATER!!! It's so cool to know my problem wasn't with a bad spraystation but with human operating error.......I guess that means i was problem, lol. I want everyone to make sure you don't add to much water to your mix, especially when you are using the graco 3900 system. If you have any doubts about things then ask. Second...THIS IS A BIG ONE...Make sure you keep a record of how much water you are adding to your mix. That will help other on this forums diagnose your problem better if you run into a spitting problem like i did....Again, KEEP RECORD of how much water you added to your mixture. I Didn't and now i realize that if i would have, MississippiMan or others would have realized my problem in a jip. Third...THIS IS THE BIGGEST ONE...watch how much you are tipping your gallon can of paint mixture when straining into the paint gun container. If you tilt it to much then more paint will back up into the strainer and you will add to much water to help it flow through the strainer at the speed your are pouring it into the paint gun container . I'll post some video's and pictures to go in more detail on proper straining, when it comes to the angle you tip your can in couple of days.
post #1153 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by farleyville View Post

This wasn't clear to me as well in the colorant mix until this answer. So for sf 2.5 3.0, the colorant mix including water will add up to 200 ml. Of that 200 ml, only roughly 90 ml will be used (3 oz). That effectively thins the paint to only 1.5 oz of paint, and 1.5 oz of water. Sorry to ask a question again, but I wanted to make sure I understood the above.

Orignally i thought I would need to use almost all the colorant for a 3.0, or double the recipe to have enough for a 5.0, but sounds like the water is included in that count?

Thanks

(Color Components)
100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
16ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
9ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

The water is needed to both rinse off the gooey paint from the measuring utensil used as well as thin the Colorant for easier mixing.

Those who use Syringes still should add the same amount of water listed above. It's best then yo lace the water into the container to receive the Color components first, then squeeze the components in to mix together.

Rate of Pour into Straining sock.

The rate of which one pours the paint into the Sock Strainer has always been a intergal part of determining the viscosity (...or lack thereof actually...) of these Mixes.
I have several Videos posted showing this method, but in actual use, S-I-L-V-E-R has always been a bit thinner.

And yes...using the Viscosity measuring tool has never been recommended for use to judge correct viscosity.



http://s586.photobucket.com/user/MississippiMaurice/media/The%20Big%20Easy%20Experience%2008-01-13/003_zps0f831470.mp4.html




http://s586.photobucket.com/user/MississippiMaurice/media/The%20Big%20Easy%20Experience%2008-01-13/004_zpsa2599b39.mp4.html




http://s586.photobucket.com/user/MississippiMaurice/media/Paint%20Draining-Filtering%20-Stirring%20videos/PaintDraining.mp4.html
post #1154 of 1462
How many of the silver liquitex do I need? I picked up a single 4 oz tube
post #1155 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 requires 22 oz of Silver, so if your buying it in 4 oz Tubes, that would require 6 tubes.

At 1 Tube your still a wee bit short.

Have you carefully read the mixing instructions along with the listed amounts of the components, all on the first page of this Thread?
post #1156 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 requires 22 oz of Silver, so if your buying it in 4 oz Tubes, that would require 6 tubes.

At 1 Tube your still a wee bit short.

Have you carefully read the mixing instructions along with the listed amounts of the components, all on the first page of this Thread?

got ya, I might have to head to another store since they were low on silver anyways.
post #1157 of 1462
Hey, Has anyone seen the latest price amazon is asking for the Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents 32 ounce jar!?!?!...$64.00...eek.gifeek.gifeek.gifeek.gif . Has the price gone up that much since the year and half ago that i did my silver fire??Is that a typeo or is that legit?? If i recall correctly, I only payed $32 when i bought it in 2012. Thats some hefty change.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Metallic-253611-Decorative-32-Ounce/dp/B003EELN1Y
post #1158 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post

Hey, Has anyone seen the latest price amazon is asking for the Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents 32 ounce jar!?!?!...$64.00...eek.gifeek.gifeek.gifeek.gif . Has the price gone up that much since the year and half ago that i did my silver fire??Is that a typeo or is that legit?? If i recall correctly, I only payed $32 when i bought it in 2012. Thats some hefty change.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Metallic-253611-Decorative-32-Ounce/dp/B003EELN1Y
I posted about it in my asking about what type of screen.. Where do they pull those prices from? I was about to say if everyone was spending that amount here I figured more would be complaining..


The funny thing was on price tracker it was $34 about 2 weeks ago...

Lowes you get 2 for $49 but you have to buy two at a time.. I might do it that way if Amazon is not back in stock by next week.
post #1159 of 1462
Thread Starter 
You two should get together and split a two Jar order (duh)
post #1160 of 1462
menard's still carries it for under $25.cool.gif
post #1161 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

menard's still carries it for under $25.cool.gif

Yes...but they do not ship, and their lack of store availability renders them a non-player for the majority of posters who are looking for such.

Opportunistic Sellers are always a problem on Amazon, and looking carefully at every source and buying option has always been the order of the day to prevent getting gouged.
post #1162 of 1462
I don't know why people think everyone has a menard's.. I had to google it just to see what it was.. I guess it's a midwest store only.

Can't you special order it from home depot? I don't know how special order works since I never had to do that before.. is it like lowes and I have to buy 2?
post #1163 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubaruB4 View Post

I don't know why people think everyone has a menard's.. I had to google it just to see what it was.. I guess it's a midwest store only.

Can't you special order it from home depot? I don't know how special order works since I never had to do that before.. is it like lowes and I have to buy 2?

I bookmarked this back when I was first looking.. Here are the special order instructions for Rustoleum.

http://rustoleum.com/help-and-support/special-order-assistance/
post #1164 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by farleyville View Post

I bookmarked this back when I was first looking.. Here are the special order instructions for Rustoleum.

http://rustoleum.com/help-and-support/special-order-assistance/

Thanks never knew something like this existed.

Wait it says orders needs to be in full case quantity that does not mean I need to order a full case does it?
post #1165 of 1462
I have no idea, i never went ahead with it, as I bought from amazon at the $30 price point, but I'm sure you can call the 800 number and find out. The lowes deal might be your best bet if you can find another AVS member to split it with you.
post #1166 of 1462
Thread Starter 
All of the Vendors "except" Lowes state that case quantities must be ordered.
A Call to the Lowes number listed should sort out the question.

http://rustoleum.com/documents/wtb/Lowes%20Special%20Order%20Instructions.pdf
post #1167 of 1462
For those that ordered that paint mixer on Amazon how long did it take to arrive with the post office? I have the prime membership but it's going to be past the delivery date by 2 days and it's still showing in Columbia SC
post #1168 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubaruB4 View Post

For those that ordered that paint mixer on Amazon how long did it take to arrive with the post office? I have the prime membership but it's going to be past the delivery date by 2 days and it's still showing in Columbia SC

If your "Prime" and you marked "Free 2 Day Delivery" it should not be going via USPS. If you failed to select the free expedited shipping, then it's coming Ground.
post #1169 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

If your "Prime" and you marked "Free 2 Day Delivery" it should not be going via USPS. If you failed to select the free expedited shipping, then it's coming Ground.
It happens regardless they base it on how long it will take the closest center for it to arrive..

To really get it UPS you have to pick next day on everything :-/



You are now connected to Pratyusha from Amazon.com

Me:My order seems to have not moved from it's location and I don't know if it's lost in transit.

Pratyusha:Hello, my name is Pratyusha. I'll be glad to assist you today.
I apologize for the delay in shipping your order.

Me:ok

Pratyusha:I'm checking that for you.

I'm sorry, it appears that your package has been lost in transit by the carrier. This doesn't happens usually. 
Would you like me to send you a replacement or issue a full refund?

Me:Why did they have to send it with the post office?
this seems to be a issue going on around Amazon

Pratyusha:Unfortunately, we're unable to predict which carrier we'll use to ship your order. Because carriers are assigned automatically at the time of shipping your order which depends upon the size of the package, shipping destination and the fulfillment center which is nearer. This is completely an automated process.
However, I'll forward this to the respective team so that this will not happen further.

Me:please do

Pratyusha:OK, Michael. Thanks for understanding.

Me:ok

thank you
Send

Pratyusha:Would you like me to send you a replacement or issue a full refund?

Me:send a replacement

Pratyusha:Give me couple of minutes while I create a replacement, please.

Me:ok

Pratyusha:I've placed a new order for you at no charge. The order details are available in Your Account ( http://www.amazon.com/your-account ), and we'll send you an e-mail when the new order is shipped. The Estimated Delivery Date is September 12.

Me:ok thank you

my thing is how in the heck do you misplace a paint mixer??
Edited by SubaruB4 - 9/11/13 at 7:10am
post #1170 of 1462
I think it all depends on where the item is warehoused and how far the warehouse is from the shipping destination. I get mixed bag of delivery methods including UPS, USPS, LaserShip and the occasional FEDEX. I buy a lot of stuff from Amazon and it always seems to show up on time. The only exception has been when LaserShip dropped off a box at the across the street.

Good luck!
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