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The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 40

post #1171 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by travisbickle View Post

I think it all depends on where the item is warehoused and how far the warehouse is from the shipping destination. I get mixed bag of delivery methods including UPS, USPS, LaserShip and the occasional FEDEX. I buy a lot of stuff from Amazon and it always seems to show up on time. The only exception has been when LaserShip dropped off a box at the across the street.

Good luck!

Yep I knew this they estimate how long it would be with each carrier (we don't use laser ship here) and figure out which is the cheapest.. However a lot of complaints have been with AMZ using USPS for shipping.

They shipped the paint mixer next day via UPS so it's good I can pick it up as soon as I leave.
post #1172 of 1462
Would you guys please recommend an SF mix for me?

The projector I've ordered is the Optoma HD131Xe.

The screen I'm planning is a Sintra board at 106", and a 13'-10" throw. PJ Central calcs that at 30 fl.

I'll have some major ambient light in the daytime, but dark at night, although the adjacent walls/ceiling are light. I'd love for the screen to pop like a plasma in both situations, but I guess that's what most are looking for?

I chose the HD131 over the comparables like the Acer H6510BD and Benq 1070 under $1000 because of its longer throw and higher lumens, but I've got 30 days from Amazon so if someone has another suggestion please let me know. My seating will be at about 12', with the PJ ceiling mounted. I'd prefer the PJ be behing me and not in my periphery, but the Acer is tempting, as well as the Viewsonic PJD7820HD.

Also, I have an older Craftsman gravity fed HVLP spray gun that I use with a compressor - is their any reason to use the Wagner/Graco models over something like this:
http://www.searsoutlet.com/HVLP-Gravity-Feed-Spray-Gun/d/product_details.jsp?md=ct_md&pid=14456&mode=seeAll

Thanks for the help!
post #1173 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Silver Fire 2.5 5.0 (...if "major" means "MAJOR".)

Any Compressor Fed HVLP rig must worry about both Rust and Condensation in the Hose (+water in the Tank), as well as the ability to maintain a constant pressure for an absolutely even coat.

Electric HVLPs have NONE of those issues to deal with.

I have a 32 Gallon 5.5 HP rig and 3 of the best HVLP guns money can buy.

.................I haven't used any of the above since 2007.

.................except the Compressor to pump up Tires and drive an Impact wrench. biggrin.gif
post #1174 of 1462
I've been checking around stores like JoAnn's and Hobby Lobby.. Maybe what I saw was a sale but not sure.. At Michaels the 4oz of the liquidtex was $3.99 and the other stores$4.99 For Michaels the coupons will they have a sale on the paint or is it something like a certain percent off?
post #1175 of 1462
Hello all,

Thanks for all the knowledgeable posts on DIY screens that has motivated me to make a screen for my dedicated theater. I was trying to buy Sintra in oklahoma and not sure where I can get it from. I have a space of 105inches in width and 120 inches in height. Planning to put in a zero edge DIY screen so I have to leave some space on each side. Can somebody guide me what should be the measurements of the sintra that I have to buy? Thanks
post #1176 of 1462
time to start getting materials for this, looks like i can still reuse my 106" tab tensioned screen!

Wished i could get this premixed, then again that would cost me 2 arms and a leg hah.
post #1177 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Naw....just a few fingers. wink.gif
post #1178 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Naw....just a few fingers. wink.gif

Thanks for all the knowledgeable posts on DIY screens that has motivated me to make a screen for my dedicated theater. I was trying to buy Sintra in oklahoma and not sure where I can get it from. I have a space of 105inches in width and 120 inches in height. Planning to put in a zero edge DIY screen so I have to leave some space on each side. Can somebody guide me what should be the measurements of the sintra that I have to buy? Thanks
post #1179 of 1462
^ I'm in the same boat.. I want to project to a 120" size so I think I would need a total of 122" because of the 2 inch border? Wont that make it 107" x 60"

I haven't ceiling mounted my projector yet but from what I saw here it's best to mount the projector first and line the screen up so it's centered?
post #1180 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aksokie View Post

Thanks for all the knowledgeable posts on DIY screens that has motivated me to make a screen for my dedicated theater. I was trying to buy Sintra in oklahoma and not sure where I can get it from. I have a space of 105inches in width and 120 inches in height. Planning to put in a zero edge DIY screen so I have to leave some space on each side. Can somebody guide me what should be the measurements of the sintra that I have to buy? Thanks

Width is the limiting factor.

A 110" diagonal Screen is 96" x 54", so selecting that size in a Sintra sheet (...cut down from 120" x 60" ) would leave you with 5.5" on each side...a respectable distance. But be advised that anytime the edges of a screen reside so close to a wall at right angles, the wall itself will reflect considerable light. So any effort to mask that area with a Flat Dark paint or light absorptive material will pay huge dividends toward maintaining image quality, especially in dark room viewing.
post #1181 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubaruB4 View Post

^ I'm in the same boat.. I want to project to a 120" size so I think I would need a total of 122" because of the 2 inch border? Wont that make it 107" x 60"

I haven't ceiling mounted my projector yet but from what I saw here it's best to mount the projector first and line the screen up so it's centered?

120" diagonal is 59" x 105"

But there is a simple way to get your 120" diagonal screen area.

When the Sintra is cut down from 120" to 109", retain the extra piece and cut 1" wide strips from it and apply them like "Shim Tabs" across the top and bottom edges.

If the Sintra is applied directly to a wall, that is not necessary because Trim can butt up against the outside edge. If a Fame is built, then it can be made to be 2" bigger on on the length / height than the Sintra, and again the Trim applied around the exterior.

But if overlaying the Trim onto the Sintra is what is planned, then the use of "Tabs" as shim spacers to let the Trim set level off the edges is the key. Your Frame would still need to measure 109" x 63"....or if "on the wall" you'd stick to 59" x 109" and simply apply 1" "Tabs" across the top and bottom edges.
post #1182 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Width is the limiting factor.
A 110" diagonal Screen is 96" x 54", so selecting that size in a Sintra sheet (...cut down from 120" x 60" ) would leave you with 5.5" on each side...a respectable distance. But be advised that anytime the edges of a screen reside so close to a wall at right angles, the wall itself will reflect considerable light. So any effort to mask that area with a Flat Dark paint or light absorptive material will pay huge dividends toward maintaining image quality, especially in dark room viewing.

Thanks MM

96x54 would conform to what format? 16:9 or 2.35:1? I'm looking to build a zero edge screen so it has to be in right format with right measurements for the format. Yes, I'm thinking of putting on velvet or the absorptive material that you referred to in your post.
post #1183 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aksokie View Post

Thanks MM

96x54 would conform to what format? 16:9 or 2.35:1?

16:9 / 110" diagonal
Quote:
I'm looking to build a zero edge screen so it has to be in right format with right measurements for the format. Yes, I'm thinking of putting on velvet or the absorptive material that you referred to in your post.

Well, a "Zero Edge" screen doesn't by definition use any border. But it can "float" against a background of Black material.
post #1184 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

120" diagonal is 59" x 105"

But there is a simple way to get your 120" diagonal screen area.

When the Sintra is cut down from 120" to 109", retain the extra piece and cut 1" wide strips from it and apply them like "Shim Tabs" across the top and bottom edges.

If the Sintra is applied directly to a wall, that is not necessary because Trim can butt up against the outside edge. If a Fame is built, then it can be made to be 2" bigger on on the length / height than the Sintra, and again the Trim applied around the exterior.

But if overlaying the Trim onto the Sintra is what is planned, then the use of "Tabs" as shim spacers to let the Trim set level off the edges is the key. Your Frame would still need to measure 109" x 63"....or if "on the wall" you'd stick to 59" x 109" and simply apply 1" "Tabs" across the top and bottom edges.
So wait say I want to mount it directly to the wall? So I put the black border on the sintra or around the outside of it? But then the screws would show so I would assume on the sintra.
post #1185 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubaruB4 View Post

So wait say I want to mount it directly to the wall? So I put the black border on the sintra or around the outside of it? But then the screws would show so I would assume on the sintra.


You can glue it directly to the wall with water based adhesive.., No screw Holes. You can butt your trim, wrapped in velvet, up against the outside edge of the sintra, so it would not be on top of the sintra at all.
post #1186 of 1462
I thought so.. The issue would be transporting something of that size home which has part of me still between sintra and flexwhite.
post #1187 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubaruB4 View Post

I thought so.. The issue would be transporting something of that size home which has part of me still between sintra and flexwhite.

Many locations have "In Town Courier" service.....and I myself carry them in the back of my PU, a Nissan Frontier Short Bed, by putting three 2x4s angled up on the tailgate and the Sintra laying on them, tied lightly down. And I transport 60" x 107"s that way.....all the time.

But do ask that they sheath your Sintra in Cardboard for the Trip....no matter who does the carrying.
post #1188 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Many locations have "In Town Courier" service.....and I myself carry them in the back of my PU, a Nissan Frontier Short Bed, by putting three 2x4s angled up on the tailgate and the Sintra laying on them, tied lightly down. And I transport 60" x 107"s that way.....all the time.

But do ask that they sheath your Sintra in Cardboard for the Trip....no matter who does the carrying.
People drive too crazy here, I would have to rent a truck since I can't fit that stuff in the back of my Subaru, Now this so called glue what's the weight limit of it?
post #1189 of 1462
Thread Starter 
With Sintra you can use water based Power Grab in a White or Clear formula.

You'll need at least 4 tubes.

You apply multiple 1/4" beads spaced 1" apart from top to bottom, and use a cheap Floor Trowel ($3 ea.) to spread them out a bit flatter, then set the Sintra up onto a screwed on leveled "ledge" of lumber ( 3/4" by 2" strip of Plywood works fine) bottom first and press it into place applying pressure from the bottom to top to express air out, much like applying a decal or window film.

  • .Set the sheet in place first and mark the edges on the wall for a guide, and try to apply the sheet evenly,
  • Find a Helper...and both apply the beads and smooth them out in tandem to reduce working time between applying, smooshing, and setting in place.. Work quickly, you have about 7 minutes.
  • Use a couple of Blunt-Toothed Trowels, and hold it pretty flat to the board and only use light pressure too smoosh down the top of the Beads
  • Use a couple of clean cotton Towels between your hands and the Sintra to avoid smearing hand oils all over the sheet.

After 30 minutes you can remove the "Ledge". Trim Butted up against the outside edge of the Sintra covers up the few Screw holes. An Alternative method is to locate Studs and drive some small Framing nails about 3/4" into the wall on a level line drawn out. Once again, the outside leading edge of the "overlaid" Trim will hide those few small holes.
post #1190 of 1462
Thread Starter 
There are new updates coming very soon regarding the Reflective Base components. Please reveiw these changes carefully.

While the coming changes do no negate or render the existing formula obsolete, they dp offer some added convenience in regards to sourcing and mixing.

Stay tuned....I will post the changes at the end on this Thread as well as make the needed revisions on the First Post of this Thread.
post #1191 of 1462
Looking forward to hearing what changed.
post #1192 of 1462
Thread Starter 
The Silver Metallic is new...
Martha Stewart's Living Metallic Polished Silver 343 560
(comes in 10oz containers at LOWES and some Home Depot s for $6 each)
you'll need 3 containers... subtotal = $18
(the main reason for this change are three-fold... cost, reflectivity, and viscosity... as it is much easier to measure and mix than the Liquitex silver tubes)

The Water Based Polyurethane is also new...
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based)
(Lowes is main source, Home Depot and Menard's haven't picked it up yet)
Qt = $12
(obviously the main reason for this change is the ability go from a satin to a matte finish and further eliminate possibility of sheen)

As stated previously, the changes above do not mean the old items are not viable. Either may be used separately with the remaining original ingredients.

However, the use of "BOTH" will constitute a improvement, and as such are worth sourcing is such is possible.
post #1193 of 1462
The Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents white Pearl is back to a normal price on Amazon for $24.92 I did a one click order for it so it will be here Oct 1st.
Edited by SubaruB4 - 9/28/13 at 11:06pm
post #1194 of 1462
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubaruB4 View Post

The Rust-Oleum Metallic Accents white Pearl is back to a normal price on Amazon for $24.92 I did a one click order for it so it will be here Oct 1st.

....and all ya all better hurry 'cause I just ordered 2 Jars myself. 10 left on this batch.
post #1195 of 1462
Nothing like getting it fast with prime!

61rr.jpg
post #1196 of 1462
Hey everyone,

I currently have a 92 inch screen using MaxxMud rollable version. I had posted in another thread about getting a scuff mark on it when I was in the process of redoing my hometheater set up. With advice from MississippiMan I was able to fix it and make it viewable again. Well I am going to be picking up one of those gleem sprayers soon hopefully and was going to spray a new coat. Well I have been reading this thread and have become interested in maybe trying it. I am just not sure what version I would need. I currently like the MaxxMudd. The image is very watchable with the ambient light during the day and really pops with low light. Would the SilverFire be worth the upgrade? It seems like from the reading I have been doing it would. At this point I am still in the thinking about it phase.

Thank you
Edited by splatee - 10/2/13 at 7:09am
post #1197 of 1462
Thread Starter 
splatee,

Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 would be a significant upgrade on almost every conceivable level.

Better still, the RS-MaxxMudd LL makes for a suitable surface to apply the upgrade to, so no Priming will be required.
post #1198 of 1462
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

splatee,

Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 would be a significant upgrade on almost every conceivable level.

Better still, the RS-MaxxMudd LL makes for a suitable surface to apply the upgrade to, so no Priming will be required.

How much darker is Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 compared to my current RS-MaxxMudd LL screen? I really do not want to go any darker because we watch the projector full time and there is some daylight to deal with. After using my back up Sherwin Williams screen Unique Gray it was very clear how much duller the image looked and that screen was just a bit darker.

And I was going to go and order the "no name" spray gun from Gleem Paint...

http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

Will this gun work out of the box? I couldn't find any info on what size spray needle it usues.

As of now the 'WAF" is getting real low. The RS-MaxxMudd screen was suppose to be my last one I made. LOL.

Thank you
post #1199 of 1462
Thread Starter 
You will lose no brightness...colors will be even more vivid, and performance in ambient light will be significantly improved. It's "all good". But if you still have some qualms, simply mix up a SF 2.0 version instead.

I will provided the Link for the needle below.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BG6DIM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NWLOWWF5G7JX
post #1200 of 1462
Ok I will start gathering all the ingredients to make a batch. I still have some ingredients left from my RS-MaxxMudd screen which are the min wax and Behr UPW. As far as mixing the batch I am unclear on the process. It seems like I mix the the individual colors in one container and then add that to the main mix? Also I am not certain in what porportions I need the minwax and Behr? I am thinking I want to go with 2.0. I read the beginning of the thread with the ingredient list but I am still a bit confused on the measurements needed. Oh and how are the Wagner hvlp guns? I found a slightly used one for sale for like half the price of the Gleem Pain one.

Thank you
Edited by splatee - 10/4/13 at 6:29am
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