Edited by MississippiMan - 12/2/13 at 10:07am
The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 45
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Just sprayed my screen today (2.0) and watched The Chronicles of RIDDICK(Blue Ray).... all I have to say is that this mix is BANANAS. It just kicked my InFocus X10 into the big leagues.
Thank you so much for your hard work and dedication to this formula. The black level is just a shade under big cinema standards but the 90% that I DO have is incredible....
Jujuman, at 90%, what level of improvement do you feel you obtained over what was happening beforehand? 2x ? 3x ?
As Scoob related, the Image Quality will only improve with curing, and that goes for your perceived improvement in Contrast, as the slight glossiness reduces to a true matte
Yes, painted a solid surface. http://deshevo-stroi.ru/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/_________________4fccb1e65d402.jpg
Painted in two layers, the first layer of dark base (acrylic paint with a silver powder, a second layer of matt acrylic paint with the addition of white reflective particles)
The entire surface turned dull.
If interested I can list all the ingredients.
That too consisted of a under - layer of Silver Metallic paint topped with a Translucent White paint w/Pearlescent added.
Your example seems to be a much darker shade that I would expect from the combination you used...unless the Silver started out a very dark shade, and the top layer was very thinly applied. Re-reading, you mention a "Dark Base" w/Silver Powder" so can that be construed as being a Dark Gray Acrylic Paint? A clear description of the entire process is essential when presenting something new.
Of course we are all interested in what components you used, and the application process. Sharing is what we all do.
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As for the Colorant, take some on a spoon and slowly rinse it into a sink, or into a very small amount of water in a glass. It should look Brown. Otherwise report back.
When I mix colorant I do so in 1/2 gallon quantities so I can use the Squirrel cage easily. Using a 32 oz cup, something like a 7-11 "Plastic" soda cup, the Squirrel Cage can break down to 1/2 it's depth...it snaps apart in the middle. You use it then at a relative slow speed, after first using a Flat stirring stick (...a Butter Knife works great...) to do the initial mixing.
Mr. Man, I've just mixed my colorant for a SF 4.0 screen, and I have a similar situation to the above. In the (clear plastic) mixing container, the colorant looks like a deep brownish purple or plum. If I take the mixing spoon and stir it into a measuring cup half full of water the result is more obviously purple. Kinda like grape milk, if such a thing existed. If I tilt the cup and look through the very edge of the watery mix, (where it is the shallowest) I see a blue tinge.
I have only hand mixed so far, I will hit the mix with the squirrel cage and report if the hue changes.
[EDIT] After mixing, the hue looks about the same. The straight colorant appears purple-ish, plum-ish black, and when mixed with water it looks even more purple, kind of a grey-ish purple. (The blue color fringe does seem to have gone away after I power mixed it.) When the watered down mix is dripped on white paper, the result is pretty grey, no obvious purple tint there.
Here's the mix so far. Only colors, no metallics:
100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
14ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
10ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue
[EDIT] Here's a pic.
Edited by DaveNagy - 12/11/13 at 12:04pm
For funzies, I mixed a bit of my colorant in with a couple tablespoons of the Behr 1850 UPW Flat Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish.
I was hoping that the "white" would let me judge the tint better... It did, I think. I ended up with a color that is pretty darn close to a battleship grey, with just a touch of blue/purple to it. (More blue than purple, I'd say.) Since I'll be mixing in some gold and silver ingredients eventually, I could believe that I'm actually on a good glide-path to an eventual neutral grey.
So maybe it's all good. I anxiously await judgement from PB_Maxx.
Edited by DaveNagy - 12/11/13 at 3:49pm
I just shot my first "duster" coat. It's a bit more splatter-y than I had hoped. (The biggest drops are lots bigger than the smallest ones.) I've got 30 oz. of water in my "Viscosity Components" right now. I'm thinking of jumping up to 32 oz. for my next coat. I might bump the air pressure/volume up a bit, too. (It's at the Wagner's near-lowest setting right now. 10% or so.)
[EDIT] I'll continue my monologue, since I've got some time to kill while my garage warms up... I put five "duster" coats on my screen yesterday. After every coat, I would worry about the amount of texture in the wet paint, but once it had dried it always smoothed out considerably. That said, it was still fairly pebbled. So, after the fifth coat I let it dry several hours, and then I hit it with a sanding sponge. That seemed to knock off the high points pretty well, but of course they will probably come back when I do my last three coats today.
I'm painting in my garage. The temp out there is probably in the 60's. Not "cold", but not warm either. I read comments that this might prevent the paint from "flattening out" as well as it could. So, I'm attempting to warm things up for the final coats. I've got a small forced-air heater blowing into my "spray booth". That should (slowly) raise the air temp out there, and hopefully raise the temp of the screen surface as well. I've also got my remaining half-gallon of paint sitting in a sink full of warm water. I'm debating whether to thin the paint more. It seems to be going through the strainer about how MM recommends, and I don't want to overdo it. I bet warmer paint flows better, so that may help.
I could also lay the screen down flat while it dries. I wonder if that would help...
[EDIT] Okay, I've now done two coats using my new warmed-paint-and-horizontal-drying technique. I think it's working. I'll be better able to tell after this second coat has dried, but it seems like the texture is finer now. I'll go ahead and attribute that more to the temp, and thus viscosity, of the paint, than to the fact that I'm letting it dry while laying flat. In other words, I think the warmer paint is leaving the gun "better". Oh, the other variable that I've changed is that I am no longer using a fan to speed drying.
[EDIT] All done! The screen looks quite good, IMO. The texture I achieved on my final coats appears to be both flatter and finer than the texture I was getting yesterday. Warming the paint seemed to thin it fairly significantly, so I'm gonna attribute the improvement to that, mostly. It seems, in my mind at least, to be a strategy worth considering. From the gun's perspective, the paint is very thin, perhaps dangerously so. It sprays very "finely". But by the time the paint hits the screen, I imagine it's back to room temperature again, and thus there's little additional danger of runs. That's how it seemed to act, anyway.
I just set my can o' paint in a sink with about six inches of warm-to-hot water. In between coats, I'd set my gun into the same "bath". It was really easy to manage.
Edited by DaveNagy - 12/13/13 at 2:26pm
Guys, Hello again.
Finally it came time to write a prescription.
Since we are from different countries decided to write a link to make it clear.
basis (1.5m2) apply 3-4 coats
160 ml - http://www.vgtkraska.ru/akrilovye-kraski/econom-klass/98-vd-ak-2180.html
6 ml - http://www.palizh.ru/content/universalnaya-kolerovochnaya-pasta-standart-0 (black)
20 ml - http://www.vgtkraska.ru/akrilovye-emali/akrilovie-universalnie-emali/106-vd-ak-1179.html (metallic silver)
6 ml - http://www.vgtkraska.ru/akrilovye-emali/akrilovie-universalnie-emali/106-vd-ak-1179.html (metallic gold)
a reflective layer (apply 2-3 coats)
150 ml - http://www.dekart.ru/products/583/olimp-orion-akrilovyi-lak-dlya-dekorativno-zaschitnoi-otdelki-drevesiny-snaruji-i-vnutri-pomeschenii
60 ml - http://www.vgtkraska.ru/akrilovye-emali/akrilovie-universalnie-emali/90-vd-ak-1179.html (Silver-white)
15 ml - http://www.vgtkraska.ru/akrilovye-emali/akrilovie-universalnie-emali/90-vd-ak-1179.html (chameleon)
You're at a paint is not likely to find, but you can apply counterparts.
My stuff starts here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1311989/the-official-silver-fire-v-2-thread/990#post_22994127
Well, if one advantage being touted is the gain, and some or all of the additional brightness comes from a blue (or whatever) push, and calibrating to a correct greyscale brings this and thus the overall brightness back down to earth -- that seems worth mentioning to me. Especially since the gain in Nevil's measurements is already less than unity even with the blue push (since the BOC it is being compared to is in fact closer to .85 gain itself than 1.0).
Calibrating to a neutral grey would maximize the light output of the projector with a surface that produces no sparklies and has even brightness across the screen. Calibrating to a surface that "maintains gain" while pushing a color means cutting the light output of the projector in that color, and dealing with the potential for sparklies and the certainty of non-uniform brightness across the image that come with using a gain-y surface.
~25 mL Liquitex Phthalocyanine Green
~16 mL Liquitex Ultramarine Blue
~9 mL Liquitex Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue
20 oz Minwax Polycrylic Satin
24 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents White Pearl
24 oz Liquitex Basics Silver
2 oz Liquitex Basics Gold
12 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White Flat
40 oz water
I made up 4 quarts of reflexive base total then added 1.2 oz of the colorant mix and mixed thoroughly and often.
Definitely buy the respirator and tyvek suit (or similar). I bought some cheap syringes for measuring the pigments and mixed in a kitchen measuring cup.