The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 10

Originally Posted by MississippiMan

Hey ERuiz,

Your not taking into account the ability to attenuate the PJ's light output via the Menu's Brightness Control.

You don't want to permanently attenuate the amount of reflective light off the screen by going too dark. If that was the goal, I'd be suggesting SF v2 5.0 or 6.0, however...with a big 'ol 125" diagonal 2.39:1 Screen, that's exactly not what you want to do.

Realize that when you zoom out to fill the confines of the 2.39:1 Screen you will not only lose brightness due to the zooming /size that results, you also lose a full 30% of your reflective area...the part of the Projected image at top & bottom that is masked.

This is not a case where the brightness of the PJ's bulb output is refocused via a Anamorphic Lens down from a 16:9 area into a 2.39:1 area. And even that is something that only happens when 16:9 is converted to 2.39:1 via such a Lens.

Remember that Art's settings were matched to not a High Gain / High Contrast Gray, but to something more akin to a Matte White.

You stick to using a 3.0 at the darkest, then Calibrate the Screen based on what you have...not what someone else uses. The SF v2 3.0 will really help the 8350's overall appearance of having even better Contrast, even though and especially because the Iris is not employed, and it will also deliver all the "PoP" you'll desire. Just adjust your PJ to suit the Screen and you'll be fine.

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

reduce fL's... hmmmmm.... i think you might have lost on that one.

personally, i'd rather you be working with double the fL's (at 38+ fL's than to be working from just 16fL's.

the darker the color of the screen.... combined with the brighter the fL's... makes it the easier to effectively create real black levels and contrast as opposed to relying solely on perceived contrast.

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

my rule of thumb for silver fire v2 3.0 however... is definitely 20+ fL's.... and preferably closer to 25.

Originally Posted by MississippiMan


Crazy. SF v2 3.0 will be about 1.2 gain.

There is no SF v2 formula that would ever be .8

BTW, "Foot Lambert" is a measurement of how much brightness is reflected "off the Screen". Lumens are "...what comes out of the PJ's Lens".

I thought this was settled. Run you PJ on low lamp mode...no Iris...and calibrate to 6500 k based on the Screen's color.

Originally Posted by MississippiMan


To quote my Buddy Rango, "Dat's whad-I-sed!"

That's what makes SF formulas so special. They are Gray. They combat Ambient light. The don't gobble up projected Lumens.

Ergo...you can run in Eco mode in a Bat Cave and still have "PoP", or Normal Mode in Ambient light and still enjoy great contrast and dynamic colors.

Who'd of ever thunk it....?

Originally Posted by MississippiMan


something in the SF v2 4.0 / 5.0

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

4.0-5.0 should be used if have a varying degree of controlled viewing in the evening coupled with uncontrolled ambient light during the daylight and/or if you simply like to have some lights most of time during your viewing. the other reason is if you are partial to deeper black levels without losing black level detail.

again the available fL's is key... and for SF V2 4.0+... i'd recommend at least 30fL's.

i think that in normal mode... the 8350 can handle a SF 4.0 with no problem.

i've successfully been able to do a SF V2 7.0 with approx 20fL's in econ mode with my crappy pj.

(far left - white N9.5, center SF V2 7.0, far right SF V2 3.5)... screenshot was taken 30 degrees off-axis.

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

...the 1st update to SF V.2 is as follows....

the liquitex gold metallic within the SF V.2 base will be added on a graduated scale.
after make a determination of which SF V.2 screen you decide to make...

SF v.2 1.0 will use 1.0oz of liquitex gold metallic
SF v.2 2.0 will use 1.5oz of liquitex gold metallic
SF v.2 3.0 will use 2oz of liquitex gold metallic
SF v.2 4.0 will use 2.5 oz of liquitex gold metallic
SF v.2 5.0 will use 3.0oz of liquitex gold metallic
...etc.

so beginning with SF v.2 1.0... 1oz of liquitex gold metallic is used, and for every version after... an additional 1/2 of liquitex gold is added.

.......................

hopefully this will not be too hard to folks to follow..
however, i do promise that doing so will indeed improve upon the already stellar white levels of SF v.2

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

you'll have to kick MM in the butt though...

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

the 7.0 and 3.5 come together and split at the longest braide.
this is a screenshot to show the separation between the two. sometiimes it's hard to catch in a screenshot what the difference is when a movie is in motion. but i'm about 50/50 torn between the two as to specific scenes i like more on one or the other. so i'll probably settle somewhere in the 5-5.5 range myself...

the 7.0 obviously kicks the 3.5's butt when i turn on all the lights though.

i can see you'd like to go with the 4.0... so i'm going to recommend this should you do decide to go that direction.

start with the SF V2 HG components... with the exception of using 4oz of the colorant.

Originally Posted by ERuiz

Is this still applicable? If yes, could this be added to the OP?

Originally Posted by FUN4ME

I like where this is going, I think I will be doing the same, I do have a question about the gold, how much should be added if I go with SF HG and 4.0 color component?

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

for nearly 3 years... i fought every battle known to man to keep from having to 'afford' the $30 of black velvet for own HT. whether is was flat black paint, or black cloth... etc, etc... i tried not to give in. i finally gave in, but only because i was installing a HT for someone else and i wasn't about to have my work frowned upon.

so to make a long story short... my felt like a dunce for not 'believing' sooner. it makes a world of difference.

----

as for the gold... yes, follow the same game plan as the normal V2

----

guys, because you are using the V2 HG but with 4oz of colorant... because of the increased silver... it is imperative that you spray your screen in dusters...

if you are using sintra or thrifty white.... give the first duster about 30 minutes to dry/adhere. after that, you'll only need to wait 15-20 minutes between dusters.

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

hint:

go to hobby lobby's website and print off a 40% coupon... they usually have black velvet in the fabric section for 12.99 a yard... that'll make it about 7.99 a yard... and viola, you have a poor man's black velvet

Originally Posted by pb_maxxx

yes it 'tis