The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 2

I'm not sure what the issue is. Simply double the listed amounts and make a bigger batch. The Amount of materials you get overall to use for the Color Components certainly allow for such.

As for substituting one Silver for another, that would seem obvious if you are able to do so.

Well there ya go. That was worth the effort to go check, eh?

Don't fret though, those Cone Filters make great air conditioned Party Hats.

Always start with less. Adding more is easy. Subtracting just isn't feasible.

Also, adding the gold comes AFTER the colorant is mixed in, because then you can then judge the shade and color of the "Gray" better since the Reflective Base is always lighter and looks to be a pretty light Silvery Gray without the colorant added.

Oops. My Bad, Partner.

I'm still thinking along SF v1 lines. Noted and corrected.

People will be wanting "to confirm" the need for the "Basics" over the "Matt Basics" when this post is 3 years old, despite the Formula being listed at the top of this thread, if the formula on the original SF Thread is not updated to show the change.

PB....I'll be going back to alter any posts I can about such, but you must edit the opening page.

It's harder to see the Silver when it's higher in gain. A Silver that is lower in gain is so because it's shade of "Gray" is darker. ie: Less reflective.

That's a rusty ol can there. Be careful you don't knock off any into the mix.

Start by trying the lessor amount. Mix well. Do a strain test. If no pooling occurs, your good. If so, replace paint, rinse filter, add 3 oz. Strain again. Etc. Etc. Etc.


I run the Mixer at slow speed and pour the colorant into the middle of the Squirrel Cage to assure quicker and more through mixing. (never mix at any time faster than slow/medium speed.)


Deja Vu.


3 finish coats are better...and move a wee bit quicker than 1' sec...but maintain an overlap of each row of a minimum of 60%.

Some of you Guys are like Chorus Girls. High maintenance.

We deal in "Height" not "Width" when discussing the spray Pattern.

Actually, that's about the same size they tell you to expect from the Wagners. But the Mfgs of both guns don't figure that the end user will be diluting the paint with between 25% to 30% water.

The resulting fluidity combined with the air pressure, needle size and the distance maintained from the surface is what will ultimately determine the height of the spray pattern.

As far as banding, with whatever gun is used, that usually occurs because of one or a combination of two reasons.

1. The paint is too thick resulting in a too dense application that coats a limited area too heavily.

2. There was not enough overlapping of the previous row.

Even with a 6" to 8" high pattern, if one effectively overlaps each row by 60-70%, Banding should not occur under normal circumstances. But not thinning the paint enough can almost make that inevitable.

Getting "too much" paint on at any one time using the ulta thin mix is the real potential issue, hence the first two initial extremely light "Dusters" and the fairly rapid motion across the screen when doing the slightly heavier Finish coats. The large overlap done during Dusters and Finish coats is the best preventative against Banding.